72Nova
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Everything posted by 72Nova
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Personally I'd raise it if you want the sail set, in this position it looks ready to be furled. The pictures really do not show it being that low plus the aft end is raked upwards quite a bit. Just my .02 and the model is looking good! Michael D.- 279 replies
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I have it pictured in post #206, between the two hatches almost as far aft as the fore channel. That's a possibility since this setup is obviously lacking in velocity ratio and mechanical advantage, plus the tackle is rove to disadvantage with the fall starting from the cathead instead of the block. Michael D.
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Hi Kirill, Again there must of been some convincing evidence that a single cathead block was used?, I like many others have always seen triple and double cathead blocks whether it be in paintings, models etc. I glued the cleat to the top of the beam running parallel/along with it. Thanks for likes and compliments gentlemen. Michael D.
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The redo of the port anchor is completed. I used styrene to form a buck the size of the 1/8" single sheave block to form the band and to hold it steady while drilling the hole for the hook. Once that was completed it was put into the vise and a hole was drilled into the block prior to installing the hook, using .28 ga brass wire, I used line as a gauge to get maximum dept for gluing the hook without blocking the sheave. I used the same method for making the cleats as I do the deadeyes, this is approx 1/8" wide. I used the outside sheave of the cathead for the fall and the inside sheave for the ring stopper rope and both are tied off at the cleat that is attached to the top of the beam, all in all it came out ok for a delicate operation. As always thanks for stopping by. Michael D.
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Last I checked it was fairly quiet, might be one or two posts this year but none from Fred in quite awhile, the new beam obviously does not show any cleats, perhaps part of the original survived showing some signs of a cleat for him to mention that specific location? at any rate that's really the only logical place to put it for the fall to function properly as there's no room on the back side of that beam with the knee just about in line with the cathead. Thanks for pointing that out Kirill. Michael D.
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After looking it over there's really only one or two places for those cleats, on top of the beam or on the front side of it, which I highly doubt, time to roll up the sleeves and revisit the anchors. Michael D.
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Good day Kirill, Fred Hockers explanation is interesting regarding a single cat-block which I can easily change but the bigger challenge will be adding the cleats he mentions on the beam as I already have the kevels for the fore tacks attached to the backside of it close to the knees, assuming this is where the cleats would be, I suppose I could add the cleats on the topside of the beam directly over the cathead ? Michael D.
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Thanks for stepping in Kirill regarding post #142, very much appreciated and well put. Michael for threads, again it depends on a modeler's personal preference, but you cannot go wrong with scale rope from Syren ship model Co., ropes of scale Etc, also take a good look at bobbin threads and certain embroidery threads as these are fuzz free and come in different weights, the aforementioned threads is what I use and purchase these online through superior threads, hope this helps? Michael D.
- 279 replies
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It's always a pleasure to admire your work, I believe I chose the 4 openings also but my issue was once I installed the battens there were a few areas where the posts for the estropes were too close to the railing posts so I had to relocate those so the oars would fit. Frank I just used the same brass rings for those flags also but happy to answer any questions you have, have a great holiday. Michael D.
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Hi Frank, The oars look fantastic and the case is coming along nicely, I'm curious to see how step #6 turns out. Michael D.
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Hi Michael, I can only echo Kirill's comments, hopefully on your next build you'll consider rigging your own shrouds and ratlines?, your rigging especially that of the martnets and crowsfeet shows me you have the talent to accomplish that no problem. Keep up the good work👍 Michael D.
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Hi Kirill, Here's another photo and I do not see the sheet pendant outside of the shrouds, again this is not under sail but then again neither is the Vasa. Here's a link of the Sophia Amalia Marc. www.modelships.de/Museums_and_replicas/Orlogsmuseet_Copenhagen/Sophia_Amalia.htm Michael D.
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You are correct Kirill on the SB anchor, awaiting deployment of the fish Davit is my intention, maybe in practice it would already be in place?, but clearly the crew had too much rum and are moving slowly 😉 My initial plan was to run the spritsail pendants outside of the shrouds but the Bativia shows them inside so I chose that routing, now I'll need to taker a closer look to see if they pass outside after a few shrouds, if they do I can that adjustment since the whips have not been rigged yet. Thanks for your insight👍 Michael D
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Somewhat redundant but the anchors are completed, and the fore course tacks are tied off at their kevels with the tacks themselves still needing to be rigged.. gotcha thinking now😄 Michael D.
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Hi Kirill, I've included a few pics, one shows the cat-block positioned on top of the cathead, I know it's of Victory of 1737 but still a lot of similarities and the other is the port side of the Sophia Amalia showing the cat-block and spreaders for the sheet whip but like you said who knows if this is correct. The other option I had mentioned was to simply swing the cat-block assembly over the beakhead and out of the way rather than the anchor. Taking in account your recommendations, this is what I've come with, I did raise the bullseye a bit and looks to be a logical representation, I still need to tie off some loose ends though, thanks for the kind compliment, Shipman and as always Kirill your input along with others is invaluable and greatly appreciated! Michael D.
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Looks like I had it half right in post #315 regarding the routing of the sheet pendant, those pictures are great but do not show what is done with the cat-block?, I like the added detail of it and do not want to omit it, looking at the illustration in John Harlands book of the areas you highlighted, he shows the cat-block hooked to a strop on the shank which is an option I really like but mentions this as a Spanish method?. In my preliminary mockup I rigged as displayed on the 1/10 model and looks pretty good, I guess another option would be to bring it inboard of the beakhead? What's your thoughts on this Kirill? Regarding the spritsail pendant, it indeed is run through the bullseye but I have yet to rig the whip. Michael D.
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Small update, the starboard anchor is completed, as you can see just left it in the hanging position, the brass wire you see aids in creating some sag as the sheet pendant passes through the bullseye when gluing. Michael D.
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Thank you, Kirill hope all is well. Michael D.
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Thank you, Marc, what started out as an experiment ended up a keeper 😁. Thank you for the compliment Daniel, very much appreciated! I reattached the double fairlead under the knee I had removed earlier when reworking the trail board, I also rerouted the spritsail sheet pendant below the anchor and installed one gun port lid, up next, I will add the clews to the fore course sail so I can proceed with rigging the tacks then the bowlines and that should complete the rigging up front, also I will not be adding the anchor bouy's. Michael D.
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The build thus far is looking excellent!!, regarding your cat, I have a 100+lb dog that loves to do the same thing. Michael D.
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The port side anchor is in its final placement, I did redo the cathead block to a 3mm instead of the 3.95mm as it looked rather too large, the spritsail sheet pendant is .20mm line and is led trough a bullseye hanging from the foremost fore shroud and the anchor line is .88mm. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
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With the spritsail sheets left do, I needed to mock them up along with the anchor so I could get a sense of how much slack I can introduce into the sheet and clear the anchor. The anchor mods once again start with the kit supplied piece, scribed a line down the middle to give the elusion the stock appears as two pieces, next I needed to give the stock a heavy distressed look before adding the bolts. For the ring I used 0.74mm wire and wrapped it with 100wt thread, the double cathead block measures under 4mm and 24ga wire for the band and hook. Michael D.
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Perfecto!, just exquisite craftsmanship Marc and love the way the carvings drape over the moulding, your castings must be silicone based ? Michael D.
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The exercise the last couple of days is finishing up the bowsprit area, while not quite there yet I did manage to complete about 90% of the needed work. Overall, I'm pretty satisfied with result. Michael D.
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While working on the main top sail yard, I've completed the fore top gallant port bowline, to simulate blocks on the bridles I used .030" styrene rod and introduced just enough slack so I wouldn't distort the stay, I think it looks presentable enough. Michael D.
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