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72Nova

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Everything posted by 72Nova

  1. Starboard fore course and spritsail sheets are completed. I will soon start working on the gunport lids, finishing the ends of the railing at the bulkhead and attaching the Qtr gallery figures and building the case from the left over Mahogany I used for the Reale De France. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
  2. Thank you for the likes and compliments guys, much appreciated. I know went against most recommendations about ditching the spars and masts, but I was confident I good make them work and show what this model can look like with careful rigging. Small little update regarding the main course bowlines, this was a little fiddly since I overlooked adding the blocks at the base of the fore mast early on, there should be 2 single blocks, but I went with a 1.5mm double block for simplicity in a very tight area, the lines are lead thru and tied to the bitts, I think it looks acceptable. Michael D.
  3. With the braces completed on the fore yards along with the main topsail bowlines, the rigging is nearing the end with the lower course sheets, main course brace and bowlines still left to do and that will pretty much complete that phase, still on the fence if I want to hoist the remaining flags, if I do their rigging will be taken down to the bulwarks and probably tied off at the railings. Michael D.
  4. A very unique looking model, love it!, especially the flooring👍 Michael D.
  5. Thank you Shipman, in the end I went with what was the right decision, I really appreciated everyone's suggestions, on one hand I really liked the look of the lantern initially but the longer I starred at it the more it just looked out of place. I did include the reworked mount though, I attached the toggle at the top of the flag and ran the line to make it look like it's lead through a simulated truck and down to a cleat on one side of the staff, the lower line is lead to a cleat on the other side, all in all I feel it looks as it should with a weathered looking flag. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
  6. I will look for the artificial gold and give that a try, hopefully Michael's will have it, thanks for that tip Kirill. Patrick I was actually checking out your lantern the other day, very, very nice job of it by the way👍. I originally added wings but the result looked more like flowers, so I removed them inspired by yours. Michael D.
  7. You do bring up a valid point Kirill but I think once the flag is installed it'll partially be hidden anyway. The lantern is still a WIP at this point as I want to add some detail to the lower section and tone the gold down just a bit to achieve a more metallic bronze look and maybe try to add the mesh to the panes, we'll see how that goes but I do want it stand out. As always gentlemen your insights, compliments and critique are very much appreciated. Michael D.
  8. That design looks to be taken out of Landstom's book, very nice indeed. Since no lantern was ever recovered and the probability exists that it may never have been installed, we can only speculate what it actually looked like, so I figured I could use some artistic license, still some touch up left to do but I'm a lot more pleased with this rendition, I added some styrene to the vertical grids then created the sculptures from Sculpey clay , for the vents I used paper. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
  9. Hi Kirill, I could very well continue work on the lantern and make it more ornate but still on the fence on whether I want to display it, maybe just the mount. Regarding the brace pendants you are correct about the blocks stropped with a loop but really tough to do with 1.5mm blocks, I needed to simulate them instead and I believe it looks convincing enough at this scale. Michael D.
  10. With the starboard braces and bowlines completed I needed to fabricate the taffrail carving, using sculpey modeling clay this is what I came up with. Also, I added some detail to the Ensign staff cap. For the lantern I used a tapered CA applicator for the body and misc styrene for the rest, I used gold foil tape for the grids, gave all gold a wash of black, then gloss coated the glass area to complete. The brackets are 28g brass wire and flattened 24g wire for the base, although far from perfect, I think it looks satisfactory. Michael D.
  11. Thank you, Bob for checking out this build log and your current build is very impressive as well. Michael D.
  12. Thank you, Kirill I'll check out the other site. I settled on the run for the main top gallant and top sail braces, they're lead down the Mizzen shrouds, and I completed the port Mizzen top sail bowlines. Starboard side is next then I'll do some final tweaks on the bowlines. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
  13. I've been in awe of work for years Daniel, great stuff👍 Michael D.
  14. Hi Kirill, I do not have that PDF by Ad Hoving, I'd be interested in checking it out. Anderson does point out the line going aft again to a block added to the lower fore Mizzen shroud before taken to the deck, stating the English and Danes using this method but evidence on a Dutch vessel, instead just taking it down the Mizzen shroud to the deck, Whilst I like elaborate I think the safe bet would be to follow Anderson's lead on this one. Michael D.
  15. Much thanks Kirill, I never really keep track at how fast nor how much time I put into each build, I just work at comfortable pace. I completed the furling of the Mizzen top sail and working on the main top sail braces now, the lead is hitched or simulated to look like one at this scale to the Mizzen stay collar, through the pendant block to a block on the Mizzen shroud and to the block on the aft main shroud and to the belaying point shown in the Vasa Museum plans I have, this run looks odd to me, Anderson does state that normally they went straight down to the deck and with the belay point where it is I think I should fore go the run to the main shroud and run the lead down the Mizzen shroud as Anderson states for Dutch Vesels. Michael D.
  16. I was able to finally secure some nagging loose lines, that being the Mizzen sheet and lift, I used 1.5mm single and a 1.5mm double for the sheet blocks. I rigged the crojack braces starting at an eye bolt in side, through the pendant block and secured to cleats on the rail. Up next will be the Ensign at the stern and the top mast flag and their appropriate rigging along with finishing the furling of the top sail and bow lines and that should complete the rigging of the Mizzen mast, also I need to start thinking about the design and fabrication of the stern lantern. Michael D.
  17. Thank you Kirill and I will be adding the furled vertical section of the top sails. I've completed the starboard Mizzen top mast stay/crowfeet, these are assembled on the bench using a template before rigging them on the ship. The tack and bowlines are completed also, I see I need to straighten out a few ratlines. I realized it's been just about a year since I started this build, thanks for looking everyone. Michael D.
  18. Thank you, Marc, Johnny and Ian, for the wonderful comments, very humbling to say the least. Michael D
  19. A small update, I've completed the Mizzen top sail yard and crojack lift minus bowlines and braces and completed the portside lower main ratlines, once I complete the starboard side I'll rig the Mizzen top mast stays, top sail yard bowlines, Mizzen yard bowlines, tack and sheet. Michael D.
  20. Thank you Frank, A bit of milestone as all the yards and sails are now in position, regarding the lifts I used 32ga wire for the eye bolts at the cap and are tied off in the top, speaking of which is pretty crowded considering it measures out to 0.55" in diameter, smaller than a dime, all in all it looks okay. Michael D.
  21. With the main course buntlines completed I started working on the Mizen top sail tie and halliard, the fiddle block is made up using 1.5mm and 2mm blocks and a 1.5mm block in the top with the halliard end going to the pin rail. Up next will be the Mizen top sail yard then complete the remaining rigging on the Lateen yard, bowlines, tack and sheet. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
  22. Can be real tough to make furling look natural especially with fabric, I like showing the structure though and love the look of the plaque. Michael D.
  23. Just beautiful work that's worthy of a case and something you should be proud of, I certainly would be. Michael D.
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