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72Nova

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Everything posted by 72Nova

  1. My focus is now on the decks as this will be arguably the most time consuming modification, I started with moving the fore mast forward about an 1/2", up next, I will be removing the existing gratings and making new ones and as far as their locations?, well I've seen quite a few different variations that do not correspond with what's in McKay's book , but I'll figure it out, then I need to rework the bulkheads, all fun stuff. Michael D. '
  2. Hi Marc, The plastic is much stiffer but still pliable compared to the reissued Vasa kit and no warpage on the spars and masts at all which is quite surpising. I will not attempt to scribe the planks on the entire the hull but will highlight them in the tuck area. Hi Ian, I wasn't sure what to expect of this kit except worse regarding warped parts as the seller did not provide enough pics so I was prepared to fashion the spars out of wood, but I got lucky, Hopefully this build will be of use to you when do decide to tackle it, fortunately my eyes aren't too bad, I do use glasses for distance but I just use my trusty 1.75 readers for modeling. Work still continuing on the railings, I'm using .020"x.020" styrene to perform the mods. I need to mock up the deck to get a sense of I go about it at the waist but the one-piece deck was too cumbersome to handle, so I cut in half. Initially I was going to plank the inside bulwarks to add thickness, but in stock fashion they look good. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
  3. With some of the railings needing work I started with the Qtr railing first, once again trying to bring it more in line with Paynes painting, with just a few cuts and moving it aft, a majority of the original railing will be used with just small section needing to be fabricated at the break of the Qtr deck area. Michael D.
  4. That's a clever technique Jeff with a great result! I just love the work you're doing on this classic model.👍 Michael D.
  5. Hi Mark, Thanks for chiming in, I am indeed going with the round tuck as seen in these preliminary mock up pictures, I think I'm pretty close but not sure if the angled planking continues up into the gun port area? my thinking they are horizontal in that area. Michael D.
  6. I'm modifying the galleries as close to Payne's painting/print as possible, the Airfix piece does provide a good starting base though with very little but tedious mods thus far with the relocation of the corbels and fabricating an additional one being the biggest challenge. Michael D.
  7. I thought for sure you'd be rigging your own shrouds, dead eyes, lanyards and ratlines on this build, you have the skill set. Michael D.
  8. Hi Kirill, I could go either way on the tuck but when I reach the point of removing the molded-on rudder and scratch building a new one, I'll give the rounded tuck some more thought, regarding the scale the box says 1/600, in the instructions it list a constant scale of 1" to 50ft but I'm inclined to say it's more like 1:160 scale. Michael D.
  9. The next project is this vintage 60's Airfix kit # 1908-400, this looks to be one of the first releases molded in black. This model is void of any planking so I'm proceeding with scribing in some above the waterline only, I'm not too concerned with the remainder of the hull as it will just receive some texture using 80 grit and be finished with the tallow coating, also another area in question is whether or not I want to create the round tuck, but I still have time to make that decision . Thanks for looking. Michael D.
  10. Thank you everyone for the nice compliments. Michael D.
  11. I finally completed the portside gallery and with that, this build is completed, I just want to extend my sincere gratitude to everyone's likes, comments and input that were very much appreciated. Michael D.
  12. It just amazes me what can be done with card, it just looks fantastic! A good reference to look too when I start mine. Michael D.
  13. Well looking at the Mayflower 2 replica the insides of the bulwarks are painted the same shade of yellow as the outside, although much lighter and the bulkhead frames are painted the same tan/beige as the outside, how historically accurate that is, who knows but I think a subtle contrast would look good. Michael D.
  14. Clearly stated on the box, series # 1908-400. Just the hull measures 16", finished about the same length as yours, around 19" Michael D.
  15. I picked up a vintage Airfix Sovereign of the seas by Craft Master and the 1/600 stated scale is even more ludicrous, making it like 3 inches. Looking forward to seeing this take shape. Michael D.
  16. Using a combination of styrene and Sculpey clay I finished making up the figurines for the gallery, still some touch up to do and I could add more detail, but it already looks busy enough and I'm happy with the result. Michael D.
  17. With the main mast flag in position, I can officially say the rigging phase for this build is completed, the halliards are led to the railing on portside aft of the main shrouds. Up next the galleries. Michael D.
  18. The more I look at the more I like too Marc, certainly a detail or lack of that really doesn't affect the overall appearance of the model and I will be doing the same with my next build. Michael D.
  19. Less than a handful of tasks left on this build with the completion of the gun port lids, up next, I will be putting the finishing touches on the Qtr Galleries and finish up the starboard railing end, as always thanks for taking the time to stop by. Michael D.
  20. Frank, It's been a real pleasure following your build and watching it come into fruition while picking up a few tips here and there, absolutely stunningly gorgeous!!! Michael D.
  21. I've been silently following your build John, just brilliant on all phases, the use of the decals opens up a myriad of possibilities for adding much more indicate details and I love the look of the faux gold over gold leaf and paint, almost makes me want to build another one, but I'm happy with mine, just simply well-done Sir! Michael D.
  22. The starboard side rigging is finished with the completion of the main sheet and brace, the sheet is pretty straight forward but there are few options regarding the brace and I chose to attach the leading block with an eye bolt to the topside of the bulwark. Michael D.
  23. I finally completed the port side railing end using .030"x.030" styrene, I used plastic cement to soften the styrene enough to facilitate bending, also completed the port side fore course sheet, to achieve some slack in the line, adjust the line to the desired slack and put a spot of PVA on that side of the block, I usually use misc size wire or heavy thread as weights and make small adjustments to fine tune the slack you're after until the glue dries and repeat on the other side then you can finish up by pinching the line around block to get a tighter radius, in this case I was after just a small amount of slack . Michael D.
  24. Thanks for all the wonderful and positive comments, I do value each and everyone's input on this journey! Michael D.
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