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72Nova

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Everything posted by 72Nova

  1. Hi Frank, I did mine much the same way, using a single length of rope starting at one point and ending there, probably not very practical, Kirill does bring up a legitimate point though. If I were doing it again I would rig 2 separate ropes with hooks at one end to eye bolts on the outboard side of the davits and a double block at the other end of the rope, a single block with a hook to an eye bolt in the inboard side of the davit, then the tackle could be used to secure the boat and removed entirely when the boat needed to be launched, just a thought. Michael D.
  2. Now that looks appropriate Bill👍 and I would do the mains the same way. Michael D.
  3. I'm not quite sure what you're trying do here Bill?, you had already rigged the pendants for these tackles back in post #899 with thimbles instead of blocks, usually one fiddle and one double, from there you would rig the tackle and falls, I'm not aware of any additional mast tackles that would be taken to the masthead above the shrouds and stay? Michael D.
  4. Hi Ian, I haven't checked in awhile and was worried I missed your test launch, just love your ingenuity and craftsmanship on this, just incredible. looking forward to a successful launch👍. Have a safe trip. Michael D.
  5. With the lower Fore ratlines completed, I finished mounting the spritsail topmast flag, the lower line is secured at the trestletree and the top line with a knot simulating the toggle is led down to the top. Now I'll focus my attention on the main topsail and lower course yards. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
  6. I had a few tight ones also Frank, I had to shave the post and batten a little on those particular oars to make them fit and not be noticeable. Michael D.
  7. Hi Frank, Beautiful craftsmanship on the case and stellar work on those endless on those oars👍. Michael D
  8. Thank you for the kind compliments gentlemen. Ian I'm using 100wt silk thread, the same stuff I've been using for all the lighter lines, I find with the silk thread I can create a natural sag in the line when needed without really any effort, it measures out at .0004" or 0.1mm, maybe a hair under but in reality still a bit overscale for this build but still looks okay, it would however be perfect for ratlines on say a 1:96-1:100 scale model. I will say since it's a 2 ply thread I did attempt to separate the 2 but in the end it was too maddening and not worth the effort for something that would be almost invisible on the model. Michael D. Michael D.
  9. I finished rigging the Fore course portside bowline, sail clew, clew line, sheet block, tack , buntlines and about 1/3 of the ratlines, these I just eyeball the spacing, I do however slide some white paper behind the shrouds as I near the futtock shrouds to avoid securing the upper lines that run close to the inside of the shrouds. As always, I appreciate the complements and likes. Michael D.
  10. Personally I favor the blue over the red and the lower hull is an interesting color, kit recommendation or personal preference? either way your model turned out great!👍 Michael D
  11. The Fore mast rigging is just about completed with the exception of the braces and the fore course sheets to be done at a later stage. At this point the starboard buntlines, clew and tack are rigged and started the ratlines. Michael D.
  12. Personally I'd raise it if you want the sail set, in this position it looks ready to be furled. The pictures really do not show it being that low plus the aft end is raked upwards quite a bit. Just my .02 and the model is looking good! Michael D.
  13. I have it pictured in post #206, between the two hatches almost as far aft as the fore channel. That's a possibility since this setup is obviously lacking in velocity ratio and mechanical advantage, plus the tackle is rove to disadvantage with the fall starting from the cathead instead of the block. Michael D.
  14. Hi Kirill, Again there must of been some convincing evidence that a single cathead block was used?, I like many others have always seen triple and double cathead blocks whether it be in paintings, models etc. I glued the cleat to the top of the beam running parallel/along with it. Thanks for likes and compliments gentlemen. Michael D.
  15. The redo of the port anchor is completed. I used styrene to form a buck the size of the 1/8" single sheave block to form the band and to hold it steady while drilling the hole for the hook. Once that was completed it was put into the vise and a hole was drilled into the block prior to installing the hook, using .28 ga brass wire, I used line as a gauge to get maximum dept for gluing the hook without blocking the sheave. I used the same method for making the cleats as I do the deadeyes, this is approx 1/8" wide. I used the outside sheave of the cathead for the fall and the inside sheave for the ring stopper rope and both are tied off at the cleat that is attached to the top of the beam, all in all it came out ok for a delicate operation. As always thanks for stopping by. Michael D.
  16. Last I checked it was fairly quiet, might be one or two posts this year but none from Fred in quite awhile, the new beam obviously does not show any cleats, perhaps part of the original survived showing some signs of a cleat for him to mention that specific location? at any rate that's really the only logical place to put it for the fall to function properly as there's no room on the back side of that beam with the knee just about in line with the cathead. Thanks for pointing that out Kirill. Michael D.
  17. After looking it over there's really only one or two places for those cleats, on top of the beam or on the front side of it, which I highly doubt, time to roll up the sleeves and revisit the anchors. Michael D.
  18. Good day Kirill, Fred Hockers explanation is interesting regarding a single cat-block which I can easily change but the bigger challenge will be adding the cleats he mentions on the beam as I already have the kevels for the fore tacks attached to the backside of it close to the knees, assuming this is where the cleats would be, I suppose I could add the cleats on the topside of the beam directly over the cathead ? Michael D.
  19. Thanks for stepping in Kirill regarding post #142, very much appreciated and well put. Michael for threads, again it depends on a modeler's personal preference, but you cannot go wrong with scale rope from Syren ship model Co., ropes of scale Etc, also take a good look at bobbin threads and certain embroidery threads as these are fuzz free and come in different weights, the aforementioned threads is what I use and purchase these online through superior threads, hope this helps? Michael D.
  20. It's always a pleasure to admire your work, I believe I chose the 4 openings also but my issue was once I installed the battens there were a few areas where the posts for the estropes were too close to the railing posts so I had to relocate those so the oars would fit. Frank I just used the same brass rings for those flags also but happy to answer any questions you have, have a great holiday. Michael D.
  21. Hi Frank, The oars look fantastic and the case is coming along nicely, I'm curious to see how step #6 turns out. Michael D.
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