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72Nova

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Everything posted by 72Nova

  1. 72Nova
    I've been following most of your builds for a long time now and they just keep getting and better. If I were ever to take on a wooden kit, get my feet wet so to speak this might be it. Looking great so far!. Michael D.
  2. 72Nova
    I ordered a bottle of that Plaid folk arts 817, looks promising and will try it out on the Vasa, thanks for that tip Kirill👍. Well It's out of stock, actually I think it's discontinued and I inquired about it on another website, awaiting a response, but looks like a no go. Michael D.
  3. 72Nova
    Thank you Rich, I try to keep things simple. Kirill it must be the flash, I noticed the smaller lines do look brighter in the photos, but it's not that bright in person, I'm using Amati natural rigging line. Michael D.
  4. 72Nova
    I like your technique and the use of the wire brush, your graining looks fantastic also. My process after removing all flash etc, is sanding the part with 80 grit sandpaper and a light sanding with 220 grit, I feel the deeper scratches allow the darker color to settle in, no primer just straight to tamiya desert yellow using a soft 1/4" wide brush, once dried I use an artist acrylic Raw Umber, for the benches etc I use it right out of tube with a stiffer bristled brush to achieve a darker appearance, for the masts I use the same desert yellow base, but apply the first coat of Raw Umber as a thin wash and once that dries I go back over it, but do not thin the paint to create the darker streaks, occasionally wiping any excess off with my fingers then I seal everything with dulcoat, even though I'm only using 2 colors it looks like more. Hope that helps Kirill?. I started the shrouds and lanyards. Michael D.
  5. 72Nova
    Thank you Kirill, all plastic sanded and painted, using my go too color desert yellow as a base and raw umber for the graining. Your wood effects look great also, curious as to what colors you use?. Michael D.
  6. 72Nova
    I made up the long tackle blocks for the main yard lifts and completed the rigging for them, I will need to make a section of the middle deck in this area to cover up the opening. The rigging for the parrels and stays are also completed, only about 70+ more sheed blocks to make. Up next is the shrouds and when completed I will belay what I have rigged so far. Michael D.
  7. 72Nova
    Thanks for pointing that out Bill, wonder if it would of been easier to trim the tap on the bowsprit?, your model is looking real nice! Michael D.
  8. 72Nova
    Such a beautiful model Kirill, well done Sir. Michael D.
  9. 72Nova
    Frank I used gift tissue wrapping paper. Marc yes I cut the same shape for both. I followed Maurice's build of the Le Superbe when Pete Colemen's Victory was up and running, in fact he helped me out A LOT!! when I was back dating Victory. Kirill I hoping the pictures and my brief explanation would help, first cut to a reduced shape, install bolt rope about 1/8" from edge and pencil in the stitching then apply thinned PVA glue to sail, I never wait until it's dry before I start painting and used just the 2 colors shown in the picture, tamiya desert yellow and white, first a thin wash of yellow and let dry followed by another thin wash of desert yellow and white..tinting as you go to suit your eye and let dry, as you can see the paper gets pretty soaked but dries out quick, lastly a thin wash of white, if I were doing full sails I'd wait and pencil n the stitching prior to the white wash so they are not so pronounced. The trick is to not soak the paper, I just dab a small area with a wet paper towel as I go, loosely rolling it up as I go, tighter on the ends and flip it over about half way and bunch it up towards the yard with fingers and let that setup a bit, I do this so it is not so flat on one side. Turn it back over and finish rolling up, the gaskets help with the final shape, any sharp creases you can address by wetting the area and using a suitable tool, wooden stick works good to relax the crease. Once you get going you'll get a good feel for what you need to do, hope the helps? Michael D.
  10. 72Nova
    I received it today and that's the first thing I checked...no rail..lol. I still need to finish up my Reale De France before I start work on the Wasa. Michael D.
  11. 72Nova
    It actually looks like it belongs, nice work!👍, once detailed out and all rigged, it'll blend in nice Bill. Michael D.
  12. 72Nova
    The main yard is installed and this picture shows the arrangement of the parrels. Michael D.
  13. 72Nova
    Great stuff...WOW!!. For that blemish I'd probably leave it alone Marc, but not after applying a gloss clear acrylic on a test piece just for the heck of it, it might mask it a bit. Michael D.
  14. 72Nova
    That is odd about the lack of a railing and I agree your decks looks fantastic Bill. Marc's fab idea is a sound one and yes I'll my best to duplicate the look as she appears in the museum....we shall see. Michael D.
  15. 72Nova
    The parrels for this is a little tricky, the serving isn't bad, but there is an eye splice for the deadeye to pass through after wrapping around the ropes for the lifts before being taken around the mast. I ended up using glass beads and painting them. The main sail is furled and held into position by the temporary gaskets until dry, I manipulated the shape using a wet paper towel as to not soak the paper. Still have more fine tuning left to do, but looks fairly good. Michael D.
  16. 72Nova
    It looks great as is Bill👍, I'll be following along as well as I await for mine to arrive. My approach will different though without any colors as she is today in the museum except fully masted and rigged. Michael D.
  17. 72Nova
    Great work!, your build is looking fantastic!!. Michael D.
  18. 72Nova
    Obviously one modification to leave well enough alone, but interesting intel Marc. Michael D.
  19. 72Nova
    Thank you Kevin. Kirill I will not be using the 5th parral since I do not see it on the museum model, I have completed the portside rails, while not perfect they look fine. Michael D.
  20. 72Nova
    I figured out the belaying points...the 4th chain and toggle from aft with a single block, the parral ropes will be spliced at the ends with a long tackle block and the fall belayed to a cleat or eyebolt on the deck a. Kirill I'm going by this illustration that has the same setup as the museum model. Michael D.
  21. 72Nova
    I'm working out the parral arraingment using 0.25mm line and at the moment trying to figure out how to rig and where to belay the 4 lines?. English ships of the time have the lines spliced together about 3ft down with a long tackle block hooked to the parral rope and a single block hooked to an eyebolt in the deck at the base of the mast, did the French rig them in similar fashion?, oh and those black beads are temporary as I await for the wood beads, although do like the contrast. Michael D.
  22. 72Nova
    Yes exactly Kirill it's something I've always wanted to try and it sounds like you have had great success it!! Michael D.
  23. 72Nova
    Hi Marc, Well as much as I would love to build the Corel kit, I settled on the Airfix kit primarily to see how much detail I can induce at a smaller scale and to represent her as displayed in the museum ie: no painted figures/details , but fully masted and rigged using bobbin thread down to 100wt for most of the running rigging. Michael D.
  24. 72Nova
    Parallel projects me?, probably not as I'd end up with two hybrid builds of each other. Michael D.
  25. 72Nova
    Hi Chris, This is good information as I have never noticed this small detail and Marc's picture is especially beneficial since the Vasa is up next for me. How about using styrene strips or wood, bevel the edges with an exacto knife or file and glue them together creating the grooves, sand with 100 grit paper for the wood grain, add simulated nails cut and test fit then paint?, just a thought. Your conversion intrigues me and looking forward on your progress. Michael D.

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