Piet

Well, it's been a few days but I was not sitting on my hands.  Had to do other things that took priority over model building.  Yes, there are a few more important things - - - when the Admiral suggests that something REALLY needs taken care of - - - 
 
In any case, I painted the trim work green and put some poly on the decks.  Looking okay but the trim needs some touching up.  That'll be an ongoing thing with me I'm afraid.  I keep seeing things that could be just a tad better.
 
While the paint was drying I started making the cabin door hinges from 0.1 mm brass shim, 1 mm brass tube with 0.5 mm brass rod for the hinge pins.  All very fiddling work but it went off like clock work, no problems.
 
Next came the job cementing these little parts to the doors and then the frame parts to the door frames.  First I cemented the door parts to the doors with CA. Okay, now to cement the frame parts.  I taped booth doors together front and back with masking tape and then set them int the door opening.  As the pics show I also secured the doors to the bulkhead.  Hey, my mommy didn't raise a dummy 
 
I then clamped the model into my small Proxxon vice by the cutwater so she stands bow down.  This way the door bulkhead is now horizontal.  The small fame parts could now be placed on the frames and slid into the hinge pins.  So far so good.  A little touch of CA and holding them tight against the frames till te CA had done its grasping job and presto, job done.
 
Now I had to give it the hingeing test and wouldn't you know it, one of the tubes was not soldered on correctly.  So, that one had to be redone and reinstalled.  No problem, just another 15 minutes and it was back on.
 
The only problem is that the doors won't open all the way when the fish bin hatches are on.  They'll just have to squeeze through a narrower opening, sorry guys     
 
I could now finish with paint touch-up on the door bulkhead.  I'll have Gwen, the Admiral, look at it tomorrow and let me know where else I need to touch-up.  
 
If the paint job is satisfactory then I can start with putting the bowsprit on and rigging that.  Then the mast and rigging it.  Hmmm, we are slowly getting there.  The sails will be a challenge for me 
 
Here are a few pics of my efforts of the last few days.
 

This shows the three parts that make up the door parts for the hinge.  A similar setup applies for the frame parts, except that I made them smaller as shown in the next picture.
 

This shows the completed door hinge assembly.  
 

This shows how I jigged the doors so I can cement the frame ends to the frames.  Sorry, I didn't take a pic with the boat bow down in the vice but it worked like a charm.
 

This is another shot of jigging the doors.
 

This shows the completion of the door hinge installation.  I think it looks a little better then the paper hinges I had on previously.  This is taken before I repainted the bulkhead.   
 

This is how my little sloop looks like as of today.
 
Cheers,

Oh, how I would have liked seeing the looks on the faces of the people in Mystic walking around with half a tree    What a great price to have John and a nice idea for it.
 
Actually, the O19 is not quite finished yet, still a few details to add like the dinghy cradle and your mine bun door hinges   Then the display board and case.
 
I need to finish the lobster smack first before I can het back to my father's sub.
 
Your Morgan is looking really nice.
 
Say hi to Diane for me and Cheers to you,

Well, it's been a few days but I was not sitting on my hands.  Had to do other things that took priority over model building.  Yes, there are a few more important things - - - when the Admiral suggests that something REALLY needs taken care of - - - 
 
In any case, I painted the trim work green and put some poly on the decks.  Looking okay but the trim needs some touching up.  That'll be an ongoing thing with me I'm afraid.  I keep seeing things that could be just a tad better.
 
While the paint was drying I started making the cabin door hinges from 0.1 mm brass shim, 1 mm brass tube with 0.5 mm brass rod for the hinge pins.  All very fiddling work but it went off like clock work, no problems.
 
Next came the job cementing these little parts to the doors and then the frame parts to the door frames.  First I cemented the door parts to the doors with CA. Okay, now to cement the frame parts.  I taped booth doors together front and back with masking tape and then set them int the door opening.  As the pics show I also secured the doors to the bulkhead.  Hey, my mommy didn't raise a dummy 
 
I then clamped the model into my small Proxxon vice by the cutwater so she stands bow down.  This way the door bulkhead is now horizontal.  The small fame parts could now be placed on the frames and slid into the hinge pins.  So far so good.  A little touch of CA and holding them tight against the frames till te CA had done its grasping job and presto, job done.
 
Now I had to give it the hingeing test and wouldn't you know it, one of the tubes was not soldered on correctly.  So, that one had to be redone and reinstalled.  No problem, just another 15 minutes and it was back on.
 
The only problem is that the doors won't open all the way when the fish bin hatches are on.  They'll just have to squeeze through a narrower opening, sorry guys     
 
I could now finish with paint touch-up on the door bulkhead.  I'll have Gwen, the Admiral, look at it tomorrow and let me know where else I need to touch-up.  
 
If the paint job is satisfactory then I can start with putting the bowsprit on and rigging that.  Then the mast and rigging it.  Hmmm, we are slowly getting there.  The sails will be a challenge for me 
 
Here are a few pics of my efforts of the last few days.
 

This shows the three parts that make up the door parts for the hinge.  A similar setup applies for the frame parts, except that I made them smaller as shown in the next picture.
 

This shows the completed door hinge assembly.  
 

This shows how I jigged the doors so I can cement the frame ends to the frames.  Sorry, I didn't take a pic with the boat bow down in the vice but it worked like a charm.
 

This is another shot of jigging the doors.
 

This shows the completion of the door hinge installation.  I think it looks a little better then the paper hinges I had on previously.  This is taken before I repainted the bulkhead.   
 

This is how my little sloop looks like as of today.
 
Cheers,

Thanks everybody for your comments and likes!
 
I was going to cook two more disges today but decided to postpone that task till tomorrow.  So I spend some time in the shipyard and "bolted" the cleats to the toe rail.  After that was done I masked for painting the wales, toe rails and coamings.
I though I had a jar of Testor's green paint but alas, it turned into jell. So, I had to jump into my chariot and drive to the craft store 5 miles down the road.
 
I used a brush to paint these small items and it really spruced this little boat up quite nice.  There is still some touching up to do but over all I'm quite happy with it.  For the detailing tough-ups I'll have to use a very fine round tipped brush and may have to thin the paint a little.
 
Hi Dave and thank you for your kind words. You know Dave, when i decided to build a small boat from a kit that was on sale (for the WW program), I planned to just put it together according to the kit's instructions.  However, one thing led to another and first i bashed the kit a little, then it kinda got out of hand    But I'm not complaining mind you, I'm having a blast.
 
Hey Jesse, yeah, i saw all your likes and figured you visited my shipyard, thanks.  Blankets, well why not.  If you build bunks inside the cabin you gotta have a matras and blankets, it gets chilly on the water  .  I'm like Nils, comfortable with metal and besides that, they look better then the wooden ones they want you to make in the kit.
 
Hello Bob, yeah, I guess it's because we always think that it could have been better.  Actually I had to re-bend two of the cleat parts because I was not happy with them.  This is not an exception with me, you should see my metal and wood scrap pile    All of us want to satisfy ourselves and when the end result is finally acceptable that'll make our day, right?
Thanks for your kind words, it's appreciated.
 
Cheers,

Well, it's been a few days but I was not sitting on my hands.  Had to do other things that took priority over model building.  Yes, there are a few more important things - - - when the Admiral suggests that something REALLY needs taken care of - - - 
 
In any case, I painted the trim work green and put some poly on the decks.  Looking okay but the trim needs some touching up.  That'll be an ongoing thing with me I'm afraid.  I keep seeing things that could be just a tad better.
 
While the paint was drying I started making the cabin door hinges from 0.1 mm brass shim, 1 mm brass tube with 0.5 mm brass rod for the hinge pins.  All very fiddling work but it went off like clock work, no problems.
 
Next came the job cementing these little parts to the doors and then the frame parts to the door frames.  First I cemented the door parts to the doors with CA. Okay, now to cement the frame parts.  I taped booth doors together front and back with masking tape and then set them int the door opening.  As the pics show I also secured the doors to the bulkhead.  Hey, my mommy didn't raise a dummy 
 
I then clamped the model into my small Proxxon vice by the cutwater so she stands bow down.  This way the door bulkhead is now horizontal.  The small fame parts could now be placed on the frames and slid into the hinge pins.  So far so good.  A little touch of CA and holding them tight against the frames till te CA had done its grasping job and presto, job done.
 
Now I had to give it the hingeing test and wouldn't you know it, one of the tubes was not soldered on correctly.  So, that one had to be redone and reinstalled.  No problem, just another 15 minutes and it was back on.
 
The only problem is that the doors won't open all the way when the fish bin hatches are on.  They'll just have to squeeze through a narrower opening, sorry guys     
 
I could now finish with paint touch-up on the door bulkhead.  I'll have Gwen, the Admiral, look at it tomorrow and let me know where else I need to touch-up.  
 
If the paint job is satisfactory then I can start with putting the bowsprit on and rigging that.  Then the mast and rigging it.  Hmmm, we are slowly getting there.  The sails will be a challenge for me 
 
Here are a few pics of my efforts of the last few days.
 

This shows the three parts that make up the door parts for the hinge.  A similar setup applies for the frame parts, except that I made them smaller as shown in the next picture.
 

This shows the completed door hinge assembly.  
 

This shows how I jigged the doors so I can cement the frame ends to the frames.  Sorry, I didn't take a pic with the boat bow down in the vice but it worked like a charm.
 

This is another shot of jigging the doors.
 

This shows the completion of the door hinge installation.  I think it looks a little better then the paper hinges I had on previously.  This is taken before I repainted the bulkhead.   
 

This is how my little sloop looks like as of today.
 
Cheers,

Well, it's been a few days but I was not sitting on my hands.  Had to do other things that took priority over model building.  Yes, there are a few more important things - - - when the Admiral suggests that something REALLY needs taken care of - - - 
 
In any case, I painted the trim work green and put some poly on the decks.  Looking okay but the trim needs some touching up.  That'll be an ongoing thing with me I'm afraid.  I keep seeing things that could be just a tad better.
 
While the paint was drying I started making the cabin door hinges from 0.1 mm brass shim, 1 mm brass tube with 0.5 mm brass rod for the hinge pins.  All very fiddling work but it went off like clock work, no problems.
 
Next came the job cementing these little parts to the doors and then the frame parts to the door frames.  First I cemented the door parts to the doors with CA. Okay, now to cement the frame parts.  I taped booth doors together front and back with masking tape and then set them int the door opening.  As the pics show I also secured the doors to the bulkhead.  Hey, my mommy didn't raise a dummy 
 
I then clamped the model into my small Proxxon vice by the cutwater so she stands bow down.  This way the door bulkhead is now horizontal.  The small fame parts could now be placed on the frames and slid into the hinge pins.  So far so good.  A little touch of CA and holding them tight against the frames till te CA had done its grasping job and presto, job done.
 
Now I had to give it the hingeing test and wouldn't you know it, one of the tubes was not soldered on correctly.  So, that one had to be redone and reinstalled.  No problem, just another 15 minutes and it was back on.
 
The only problem is that the doors won't open all the way when the fish bin hatches are on.  They'll just have to squeeze through a narrower opening, sorry guys     
 
I could now finish with paint touch-up on the door bulkhead.  I'll have Gwen, the Admiral, look at it tomorrow and let me know where else I need to touch-up.  
 
If the paint job is satisfactory then I can start with putting the bowsprit on and rigging that.  Then the mast and rigging it.  Hmmm, we are slowly getting there.  The sails will be a challenge for me 
 
Here are a few pics of my efforts of the last few days.
 

This shows the three parts that make up the door parts for the hinge.  A similar setup applies for the frame parts, except that I made them smaller as shown in the next picture.
 

This shows the completed door hinge assembly.  
 

This shows how I jigged the doors so I can cement the frame ends to the frames.  Sorry, I didn't take a pic with the boat bow down in the vice but it worked like a charm.
 

This is another shot of jigging the doors.
 

This shows the completion of the door hinge installation.  I think it looks a little better then the paper hinges I had on previously.  This is taken before I repainted the bulkhead.   
 

This is how my little sloop looks like as of today.
 
Cheers,

Well, it's been a few days but I was not sitting on my hands.  Had to do other things that took priority over model building.  Yes, there are a few more important things - - - when the Admiral suggests that something REALLY needs taken care of - - - 
 
In any case, I painted the trim work green and put some poly on the decks.  Looking okay but the trim needs some touching up.  That'll be an ongoing thing with me I'm afraid.  I keep seeing things that could be just a tad better.
 
While the paint was drying I started making the cabin door hinges from 0.1 mm brass shim, 1 mm brass tube with 0.5 mm brass rod for the hinge pins.  All very fiddling work but it went off like clock work, no problems.
 
Next came the job cementing these little parts to the doors and then the frame parts to the door frames.  First I cemented the door parts to the doors with CA. Okay, now to cement the frame parts.  I taped booth doors together front and back with masking tape and then set them int the door opening.  As the pics show I also secured the doors to the bulkhead.  Hey, my mommy didn't raise a dummy 
 
I then clamped the model into my small Proxxon vice by the cutwater so she stands bow down.  This way the door bulkhead is now horizontal.  The small fame parts could now be placed on the frames and slid into the hinge pins.  So far so good.  A little touch of CA and holding them tight against the frames till te CA had done its grasping job and presto, job done.
 
Now I had to give it the hingeing test and wouldn't you know it, one of the tubes was not soldered on correctly.  So, that one had to be redone and reinstalled.  No problem, just another 15 minutes and it was back on.
 
The only problem is that the doors won't open all the way when the fish bin hatches are on.  They'll just have to squeeze through a narrower opening, sorry guys     
 
I could now finish with paint touch-up on the door bulkhead.  I'll have Gwen, the Admiral, look at it tomorrow and let me know where else I need to touch-up.  
 
If the paint job is satisfactory then I can start with putting the bowsprit on and rigging that.  Then the mast and rigging it.  Hmmm, we are slowly getting there.  The sails will be a challenge for me 
 
Here are a few pics of my efforts of the last few days.
 

This shows the three parts that make up the door parts for the hinge.  A similar setup applies for the frame parts, except that I made them smaller as shown in the next picture.
 

This shows the completed door hinge assembly.  
 

This shows how I jigged the doors so I can cement the frame ends to the frames.  Sorry, I didn't take a pic with the boat bow down in the vice but it worked like a charm.
 

This is another shot of jigging the doors.
 

This shows the completion of the door hinge installation.  I think it looks a little better then the paper hinges I had on previously.  This is taken before I repainted the bulkhead.   
 

This is how my little sloop looks like as of today.
 
Cheers,

This morning I started out cementing all the eye bolts, pulley blocks and cleats to the new woodwork.  
 
Then I masked around the cabin roof so I can paint it.  After the paint had dried enough I removed the masking paper.  Hmmm, I should have waited with the painting till after I was done fiddling around that area,  And in the course of removing the cabin doors to replace the hinges with something better looking I made a divot in the fresh paint.  Needles to say I now have to mask it all off again and respray the roof.
 
Yeah, I was not happy with the way the door hinges looked and decided to make new ones, most likely from metal.  They are rather simple to make and look more authentic.
 
I then looked at how the kit wants you to make the two cleats on the toe rails at the bow.  They are supposed to be made from wood and I guess, with a little effort you can make a decent looking cleat.  However, I thought - - - why not make them from metal    Soooooh - - I drew up a sketch and cut some pieces out of brass sheet stock.  Lacking a milling machine or any other fancy tooling I made them out of three pieces.  two that are bent into a cleat shape and a flat base.  I then soldered them all together and filed them into presentable cleats.  Yeah, it's all hand filing, no machining except for drilling the bolt holes. 
 
All I need to do now is drill the bold holes in the base and fashion a few bolts.  Actually, they'll be CA cemented to the toe rails and the "bolts" are for show.  I think I'll leave them bare in polished brass.
 
I'm now ready to paint the trim, I thimk   Oh yeah, fabricating door hinges first 
 
I didn't take any more pics of the stained woodwork, you've seen them once and they haven't changed much.  Here are a few pics of the two hardware pieces I slaved over.
 

I made a bolt and a new nut to bolt the bowsprit to the Samson Post.  I could utilize the two washers I made previously.  The bolt shank is made from 0.8 mm brass rod and the head and nut from 0.8 mm brass sheet.  The head and nut will take a 2 mm wrench    I actually made two nuts but one served as the head, which I soldered to the  brass rod.  I also "cut threads" in the shank for the nut.  Sorry, I just get a cick out of doing this kinda stuff, forgive me for having a little fun
 

This shows the cleats I made as described above.  The brass is 0.8 mm thick but I filed a good portion away to make them thinner and less bulky.  They are just temporarily laid on top of the toe rails.  I still need to drill the bolt holes and polish them before I can cement them onto the toe rails. 
 
Cheers, 
 
 

Well, as mentioned to George I decided this morning to cut to the chase and go to plan B and make a new mast, boom, gaff and bowsprit.  It "only" took 3 hours to make all 4 pieces, not including drilling the pilot holes for the hardware, that I did after lunch.
 
For the mast, I had a dowel very close to the right size and cut an extended pice that I chucked in my drill press.  I sanded a nice taper to it and then cut it to the proper length.
 
I also had a smaller dowel that was close to the gaff size and only had to sand it down with 300 grit sandpaper.  These dowels have been in the garage for several years and have not warped a bit.  My guess is that they won't warp in the future.
 
For the boom and bowsprit I used pieces of white pine molding.  It too was as straight as an arrow.  Those two pieces took a little longer to shape round but I was satisfied with the results.
 
I added the forked jaw to the boom as Dee_Dee suggested, also from white pine, might as well match the wood.  I did the same with the gaff.
 
Next came drilling all the pilot holes for the hardware and hope that the eye bolt for the boom end is low enough to allow the boom to swing.  If not I'll have to drill a hole from the front side due to access problems.
 
I also drilled a hole through the Samson Post uprights and the bowsprit for the securing bolt that holds the bowsprit in the Samson Post.  It appears that my washers and nut can still be utilized    I now have to make a hex-had bolt to match the nut 
 
Late this afternoon before closing down, I managed putting the stain on all four pieces.  I used white oak this time.  It turned out quite nice, light colored to match the bright paints I used.  Hey, I'm a happy camper     
 
Just a few more little pieces to add to the hull before I can put the mast and bowsprit in, such as the two fairleads at the bow, the trail boards and the centerboard.  The last one won't be cemented on till I have made the mounting / display board.  I still need to paint the trim, coamings, cabin roof and touch-ups.
 
Then it's the sails and rigging.
 
Here are a few pics of my efforts today.
 

Here you see that we have blankets on the bunks.  It was a tight fit getting the mattresses into the bunks so I hope they won't fall out,  I'll have to give it the shake test     This is what I mean by touch-ups!  Yup, lots of piddly detail work.
 

Cross wise view of te Plan B woodwork.  This is in the unstained condition with the hardware installed as a trial.  The hardware will be cemented in after I am finished with the staining process. It still needs a coat of poly.  You can see the forked end of the boom with an eye bolt in place.  Thanks again Dee_Dee!
 

 

 
Cheers,

Today was going to be the day to put some primer on the hull but before I could do that I had to install the cutwater firs.  Fortunately, it almost fit perfect and had to dress it down only in a few places.  I cemented it on with CA.
 
As the CA was curing I did some final sanding of the hull and then wiped it clean with a damp rag with enamel reducer.  The I started with the masking off of the topsides.
After I checked the masking that it I had closed all possible openings I took the model outside and sprayed a light coat of white primer on it.  It warmed up to about 65 F + 18C.
 
In the meantime that the prier was drying I made about 10 or so eye bolts for the rigging.  The kit supplied bass split pins are just too bulky.  I made three different sizes for the different functions in the rigging.  
 
I also finished making the bowsprit, main mast and boom.  Then I started with the gaff.  For the forked end or jaws as the kit calls it, I used boxwood instead of the kit supplied basswood.  I had a small piece of boxwood left over from the O19 dinghy that was just the right size.  I cut the two halves out to the measurements as shown on the drawings and filed the mating ends half round with a rat-tail file to fit the gaff.  I used CA again to glue them together.  Tomorrow I'll shave and file them to the correct size and looks.
 
In the afternoon when the primer had dried I sanded it down with 300 grit paper to find the high and low spots.  It'll require just a few spots that can use some wood filler and then another coat of primer.   
That's where I left it for today.
 
I think that was a day well spend and here are a few pics of the results.
 

 

 

This shows the hardware I made today.  Just below the #11 blade are the kit supplied split pins.  You can see how bulky they are and then try to put it into a 1/8 inch wooden dowel.  The combination on the left is what is to make the main boom swivel but instead I made an eye bolt to go through the mast and another eye bolt that'll go into the end of the boom.  They'll be connected with a pin so the boom can swivel and also to be removable.  
The largest eye bolt goes into the deck as guides for the sheets.  The middle ones can go into the mast and the smallest ones go into the ends of the bowsprit, boom, gaf and top of the mast.  They'll look a lot better then those bulky split pins.  
 
Cheers,

Not much done today.  This morning I had an appointment with my oncologist / surgeon doctor for a check how my bod is doing.  He was very happy and encouraged.  Well, that made two of us.  I'll have to see him again the 20th for an actual look-see inside.
 
I glued the two oarlock blocks to the deck as well as the modified samson post.
 
Now it was time to make the oarlocks.  I decided to make them from narrow strips of 0.5 mm brass shim and 0.5 mm brass rod for the posts.  I also cut two small pieces of 1 mm brass tubing for the receptacles that'll go into the blocks.
The kit instructions have you make the oarlocks by twisting two pieces of wire together for the post and then bend the two loose ends into a U shape.  The oarlocks will be permanently installed going it the kit's way and that's not the way it is in the real world.  You should be able to remove them when not in use otherwise they'll get in the way when hauling in the lobster traps in.  This just didn't suit me so I made tem the same way as I did for my sub model dinghy.
 
For the running rigging line guides they give you split-pins or cotter-keys.  Also not acceptable.  I'll make  eyebolts from brass rod . 
 
I did some more fiddling around, trying to remove some of those pesky wood fibers that keep popping up. Well, that's what to expect with basswood and poplar.  That wood hardener stuff works okay but there is always some things that need to be cleaned up.
 
I am also not happy at all with the cabin door hinges so I'll redo them as well.
 
Here are a few pics of today's efforts.
 

Here you see the three parts that make up the oarlocks and the receptacle.  I hand filed the oarlocks narrower after the pins were soldered in.  The two bushing are cemented into the wooden blocks.
 

Both oarlocks are now completed, rather simple.
 

This shows both oarlocks placed in there receptacles and ready for use.
 

This is the way I made my samson post for the bowsprit.  It'll slide between the uprights and under the cross beam.  Then it'll be "bolted" secure through the uprights posts.  In the real world the bowsprit is removable and I'd like to do the same here.  I guess I'll have to add a lower stay too.
 
Cheers,
 
 

More fiddling work done this morning like more sanding on the hull after I added another coat of wood hardener on, painted the aft-outside of the cabin bulkhead before starting the wrestle with the sliding hatch.
I decided to use 1 mm birch ply for the track guides instead of brass shim.  I felt that the brass would not hold up with the CA.  After the four small pieces were cut and CA'd on the hatch side braces I tried the fit.  Hmmm, not good, so I had to fiddle with the track width some more and that finally worked out okay.  Hatch slides nice and easy now.
 
I have made a few pics to show what it looks like.
 
After this was done I turned to the cabin doors.  I am using paper for the hinges.  After they are painted black it'll look like wrought iron 
I glued them on with a little thinned down TiteBond and let it cure.
 
Next step was to make mounting blocks for the oar locks that'll go on the deck just aft of the fish well, per the kit instructions.  The actual oarlocks I'll made tomorrow after I come back from the oncologist's visit.  
 
Then I made the three parts that'll make the bowsprit samson post.  I deviated from the drawing and made it the same way as I did on my Friendship Sloop model.
The bowsprit will slide between the verticals and cross beam and is secured with a bolt that'll run horizontal through the vertical posts.  These will be pinned and CA cemented to the deck.
I used poplar wood for these things instead of the kit supplied basswood.  I dislike that stuff and it was also what gave me greef with the hatch tracks.
 
I think that after these things are done I can finally cement the cutwater to the bow.  I'll be using a few bamboo pins to help secure it to the keel frame. 
 

This shows the hatch track with the groove for the track guides.
 

This shows the bottom or inside of the hatch with the four track guides cemented to the side braces.
 

Paper door hinges in a rough cut.  I'll dress them up after they are glued to the doors.
 

Door hinges glued to the doors.  They'll be ready for final trimming after te glue has set.
 

These are the door handles, also still in the rough.
 

Cabin doors are now installed and working.  This shows the doors in the closed position with the hatch closed.
 

Here the doors are open with the hatch slid forward, welcome into the cabin and enjoy a drink from the wet bar 
 

Pillows on the bunk mattresses.
 
Cheers,

Hello everyone,
 
I had to make a new cabin roof for this little boat and also a working hatch.  I could not use the kit supplied wood, it was just too flimsy to my liking.  I used the 1 mm birch plywood.  As is usual I made a paper template for the roof outline and the entry opening.
I also made the sliding hatch in the rough.  I had to wait till the roof was secure to install the sliding hatch rails.
The kit does not have a working hatch or working doors.  
 
Oh yeah, I also put the "glass" in for the portholes before the roof was permanently on cemented. 
 
First I had to glue the extra moulding in on the top of the cabin coaming for a better glue surface for the roof.  Then fairing everything for a good fit of the roof.  After the TiteBond glue had set enough I could then cement the roof on using the "slow set" CA.  I had to use all ten fingers to hold it down.
 
At this point I made the sliding roof rails.  I cut a groove in them on the outboard side for the slider hardware.  These will be made from 0.2 mm brass shim stock cemented to the hatch sides.
The hatch has stop strips on the forward and aft sides to prevent it from sliding off.
 
The slider hardware and doors will be my next project.  I did cut the doors out and started to fit them when it was time to close shop.  There is always another day.  The doors will be hinged. 
 
Okay, here are a few pics for you to peruse, 
 

This shows the cabin roof installed with the sliding hatch in the closed position.  It's still loose and waiting for the slider hardware.
 

This hows the sliding hatch in the open position.  You can see here the aft stop strip cemented to the underside of the hatch.
 

A peek inside.  I still have to make pillows and blankets for the bunks.
 

Here is a bow view.
 

This shows the prototype cabin doors being fitted.
 
Cheers,

Thank you all who dropped in and for your like votes, it's really very appreciated.
 
Hi Russ and thank you for your kid words.  This is actually the first time I have used CA that much.  On all my other builds I have used water proof TiteBond or professional carpenter's glue, also water and weather proof.  even that tiny dinghy for my O19 model, except for the rudder gudgeons and pintles.
For this kit I bought "slow curing" CA, well, actually the bottle said 5 to 10 seconds - - - but that's a lie 
Once the part is on and I tried to position it it was already stuck.  The only way was to undo it with alcohol and try again.  For some of the jobs I found that when my fingers are wetted down with alcohol I could handle it without fear of glueing my fingers to the boat 
Hey, I learned how to work with it, being extremely careful with positioning and very steady hands worked for me.  It's not my favorite glue, I can you that.
 
Hello George, good to see you again and thanks for the compliments.  Extras always make models nicer to look at.
 
Hi BD, thank you too for your kid words.  The gudgeons and pintles for the rudder I made.  I used strips of 0.2 mm thick brass shim stock that I cut to 2.5 mm wide.  I bend these into a U shape to fit the keel post and two to fit the rudder.  The legs of these U shaped pieces is 8 mm.  I then cut four pieces of 2.5 mm brass tubing that I soldered to the U's with two 6 mm brass rod of 0.5 mm thickness.  I didn't make any picks of the process here because I posted a few pics when I made the gudgeons ad pintles for my O19 sub dinghy and figured everybody knows how to make these little suckers.
I'll add a few pics below to show what and how i did things.
 
Hello Pete, thank you.  Yeah, the color scheme.  I think that I'll paint below the waterline red and above the waterline white.  The cabin roof will be white as are the bulwarks.  The wale and toe rail will be green as are the coamings.  A few items are stained with New England maple stain.  Nothing fancy.  The red for below the water line is the suggested color from the kit.  The deck I'll keep clear with a poly coat on it.  I could also paint the entire outside of the hull white or any other color below the waterline.    Any suggestions?
 

This shows the basic parts for the gudgeons.  These are a lot smaller then the ones for the lobster smack, these are for the O19 dinghy but the method is the same.  It may look like that hole in the tube is off-center but that's still the burr from the cut.
 

This shows the pintles soldered but still in the rough state.  I first soldered the brass pins into the brass tubes so I could hold it between a pair of tweezers while I soldered it to the U piece. 
 

This shows all the completed parts but still in the rough state.  I had to do some filing to remove some solder to make it look presentable.  At that small scale any roughness really stands out like a sore thumb.
 
Cheers,

Today was rather successful.  I managed to cement both the port and starboard coamins on using CA.  I again applied the CA in sections so I can hold each one in place to help it hold its location.  I used a toothpick this time to apply the CA only where it's needed.  This way it didn't come into contact with my fingers - - - much 
 
After the CA had set I measured the height and marked it off with a soft pencil, then proceeded to sand it down using my Proxxon moto tool with a disc sander.  The final sanding was done with a small home made sanding block.
 
I decided against cutting the deck narrower in the work area and just followed te kit plan for the most part.  That meant that I had to add one extra plank to the side seats.
 
All this worked out so nice and faster then I anticipated so I went ahead and cemented the wales on and after the CA had set I also cemented the toe rails on.  A little bit of dressing them, removing a few spots where the CA had oozed out and sanded them down with 300 grit sandpaper.  
 
I also managed to make a new cabin roof and added a top moulding inside the cabin so the roof has something to glue to.  That 1 mm ply is not enough as far as I'm concerned.  It's not glued in yet, that I'll do tomorrow before I go grocery shopping.
 
All in all I'm quite leased with the results.  Here are a few pics of today's effort.
 

Starboard side view.  the wale and toe rail are hard to see on this side but at least the toe rail is visible on the port side.  You can also see why I had to make the mast partner / collar.  The deck was further back then I wanted it so the forward part of the coaming would be flush with the forward bulkhead.  You can also see the added planks to the seats.  The next picture shows the added moulding at the top of the cabin coaming.  I'll be using 1 mm birch ply again for the cabin roof.  Oh yeah, I still have to put the portholes in the cabin coaming yet.
 

 
Cheers. 

Progress report.  I have been messing around in the cabin and made two bunks with mattresses on the port side.  Then I made a fake cabinet on the starboard side with a little table.  The cabinet is just a plank with the cabinet doors and mouldings scribed into it.  
 
I am looking for some material for the blankets.  I may have to go to the fabric store and see if they can give me a a few square inches.  For the mattresses I used small pieces of styrofoam and wrapped pieces of an old handkerchief around it.  With the blankets over it it should look quite nice.
 
I made the helm from boxwood and soaked it in water overnight and bend it around my coffee cup and clamped it till it was dry.  I stained it in New England MapleI and used the same stain for the cockpit benches and the cabin furniture.
I painted the cabin walls white as the bulwarks.  I used Testors flat white, looks okay.   
 
I installed the rudder and helm.  It works 
 
I am ready to cement the deck to the hull but am rather apprehensive doing it.  The kit plans call for using slow acting CA but even with that I am afraid that I don't have enough time to position the deck properly. I have done a few dry runs and I do need more time positioning it properly then the CA gives me.  
I'm really leaning towards using Titebond glue and plenty of elastic bands to clamp it down.  Right now I'm not committed yet to which glue I'll be using.
 
Okay, here are a few pics of how the sloop looks like as of today.
 

This shows the finished benches and the helm.  The deck is just laying loose on top of the hull.  Thinking about the paint scheme, I may just paint the frames, bulwarks and bulkheads green.  I'll use the same green for the cabin coamings, toe rails, trail boards and wales.  I think to paint it red below the waterline and white above the waterline.  Just thinking ahead right now.
You may also see a pencil outline to where I thought in trimming some decking away.  This too is still up in the air.  It seems strange to me to have such a wide deck area where they man-handle lobster traps in and out.  But then again, why make extra work for me.
 

This hows the two bunks with the mattresses.  Yup, it's a fist class cabin, nothing but the best. 
 

This shows the starboard side of the cabin with the fake cupboard and table.  The cupboard is still  made to fit after the coaming and roof are being installed.  Thinking of adding a strip of wood around the top of the coaming for extra glue area for the cabin roof.
 

 
Cheers.

Well, it's been a few days but I was not sitting on my hands.  Had to do other things that took priority over model building.  Yes, there are a few more important things - - - when the Admiral suggests that something REALLY needs taken care of - - - 
 
In any case, I painted the trim work green and put some poly on the decks.  Looking okay but the trim needs some touching up.  That'll be an ongoing thing with me I'm afraid.  I keep seeing things that could be just a tad better.
 
While the paint was drying I started making the cabin door hinges from 0.1 mm brass shim, 1 mm brass tube with 0.5 mm brass rod for the hinge pins.  All very fiddling work but it went off like clock work, no problems.
 
Next came the job cementing these little parts to the doors and then the frame parts to the door frames.  First I cemented the door parts to the doors with CA. Okay, now to cement the frame parts.  I taped booth doors together front and back with masking tape and then set them int the door opening.  As the pics show I also secured the doors to the bulkhead.  Hey, my mommy didn't raise a dummy 
 
I then clamped the model into my small Proxxon vice by the cutwater so she stands bow down.  This way the door bulkhead is now horizontal.  The small fame parts could now be placed on the frames and slid into the hinge pins.  So far so good.  A little touch of CA and holding them tight against the frames till te CA had done its grasping job and presto, job done.
 
Now I had to give it the hingeing test and wouldn't you know it, one of the tubes was not soldered on correctly.  So, that one had to be redone and reinstalled.  No problem, just another 15 minutes and it was back on.
 
The only problem is that the doors won't open all the way when the fish bin hatches are on.  They'll just have to squeeze through a narrower opening, sorry guys     
 
I could now finish with paint touch-up on the door bulkhead.  I'll have Gwen, the Admiral, look at it tomorrow and let me know where else I need to touch-up.  
 
If the paint job is satisfactory then I can start with putting the bowsprit on and rigging that.  Then the mast and rigging it.  Hmmm, we are slowly getting there.  The sails will be a challenge for me 
 
Here are a few pics of my efforts of the last few days.
 

This shows the three parts that make up the door parts for the hinge.  A similar setup applies for the frame parts, except that I made them smaller as shown in the next picture.
 

This shows the completed door hinge assembly.  
 

This shows how I jigged the doors so I can cement the frame ends to the frames.  Sorry, I didn't take a pic with the boat bow down in the vice but it worked like a charm.
 

This is another shot of jigging the doors.
 

This shows the completion of the door hinge installation.  I think it looks a little better then the paper hinges I had on previously.  This is taken before I repainted the bulkhead.   
 

This is how my little sloop looks like as of today.
 
Cheers,

Looking mighty fine Sjors!  
 
Cheers,

Very nice work Piet, she looks great
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Cannons on the lower gun deck are done.
I have only make the blocks on the back not at the side.
You don't see them so for me it's no use to make them.
Also the clever cleats are on.
Now I can place the boat beams and place and planked the upper gun deck.
 
Sjors
 
 

Today was very tedious and time consuming. Using two very tiny 40 link/inch chain, I installed the Martingale Stays from the Jib Boom to the Dolphin Striker, then using Bullseyes and line, ran the Martingale Backstays back to the hull eyes to square up and tighten the dolphin Striker. The Bowsprit is starting to shape up. I used Alexey's Serving Machine to serve the Bulllseyes to the lines on the Backstays.

Hi all
 
Rainbow, all of a sudden has turned red! No stress, though. The reason is that I decided to paint the whole hull with a Matt Red colour. This will then be the colour of the hull under the water line. Once I'm satisfied that the paint looks good, I'll the paint the top sides gloss black. Hope this all makes sense.
 
I've also planked the floors onto which the internal bulkheads and accommodation will reside. Some of the bulkheads can be seen temporarily propped up in the photos.
 
Well, overall, progress may be slow, but, it's still heaps of fun, nonetheless.
 
Hope you enjoy the photos.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

"You can not play with your ship tonight. You must play with me !"
 

 
Obviously, I am not master of my time ...q

Wow! those files are pricey Druxey.
 
the saga of the water-pump continues.
I am not happy with the sizes of things and also the elbow is causing the crankcase to be raised off the sump.
 

 
Mass confusion and general mayhem
 

 
A number of different experiments with heavy walled tube convinced me that it is easier to bend the heavy tube than to work at drilling 90 degree holes through elbows any other way.
 
That said I have come to the conclusion that all model locomotive engineers already know and i also knew it as well and that is one cannot scale nature, a molecule of water is a molecule of water and that is the fact of life. it also became a realization that I would not be able to get enough water through the water-jacket with a scale model pump for the same reason that nature is not scale-able.
 
I was able to make the pump open and close with a .093 ball bearing similar to a clack valve but being realistic demonstrated to me that this approach would not work to deliver the volume of water needed to cool the head(heat cannot be scaled either. (Nigel you already knew this too)
 
As there are two other places wher piping enters the water jacket I have decided to continue to make a scale operating water pump from the outside appearances but the actual path of the water will be through the other piping and will use a hidden pump that will be able to deliver the needed volumes. Disappointing in one sense, but that is the way the world works sometimes.
 
experiments
 

 
Now that I am on a new track I will be able to make the pump look correct, I have already done this with regard to the operation of the pistons and cylinders insider the engine and working to keep the exterior looking like hwe real engine.
 
I have developed a couple of new tools for bending the parts of the piping.
 

 
The elbow is first turned to include some flanged areas at each end, then annealed and slipped into the brass bending tools
 

 
I marked the center of the elbow with a felt pen and closed the two parts.
 

 
did the bend
 

 
after a few tries I am pleased that this method will work
 
 
 
michael
 
 
 

UPDATE - SHOP SIGN PROJECT
 

 
Finished and assembled. Four or five coats of poly and ready to hang. Pretty pleased with the way it came out EXCEPT FOR ONE THING...
 
I decided the little sail boat in the center of the original just didn't really represent my "Ship Yard" since I don't actually build sail boats. I build SHIPS.
 

 
So I've got to come up with something more appropriate for the center.
Guess I'll have to break out the carving tools....