Piet

Today I installed the deck slats to both AA gun decks.  I have to get used to seeing them on but I think it makes the model.
I stained the slats yesterday with a water soluble stain that's meant for leather.  It was not as easy as I hoped for.  The glue caused the stain to weep out and slightly colored the grey deck paint.  It's also not bonding as well as I thought it should.  It tested okay on a piece of scrap, so go figure.  To prevent the stain from weeping out I had to get some thicker Titebond, that helped a lot.  I would have liked to use CA but I needed to have the time to be able to move it a little, thus the PVA.
 
I also started with installing the railings on the gun decks.  All the stanchions are installed but still need to be trimmed.  They are made from 1 mm brass tubing, they are small enough and nice and stiff.  Then the snorkel exhaust pipe shroud need to me made and installed as well.  The aft hatch opens against it.
 
I also started with the AA gun mods, I think it'll work out okay.  I also cut parts for the lower con door hinges, that'll be a real challenge.
 

You can also see that removed some wood from the gun pedestal sides and front.  Next will be removing some wood on the top so I can install the square looking thingies there and the control wheels and the other things on top.  It all has to fit inside the buns.
 

 
Well, that's it for now
 
Cheers,

Hoi Remco, thanks for looking for your scrap box and the parts, no problem.  I'll do some browsing on the Internet and see what the model railroad folks have to offer.  I think that O gauge is 1:48 and on the old freight cars the hand brakes had similar hand wheels.
However, I have no problem with "home build" hand wheels that I can cement to the gun mount, not rotatable, just static.  It's all the other paraphernalia that comes with it.  See pic below.
 
Hi ho John, good to hear from you and thanks for your compliment - - - I lucked out with the hinges and lids.  I have been searching for your progress reports on your Morgan, where are they????  
Remco may need some wale oil for the lamps he should make for the captain's cabin 
 
Pretty much a lost day today, again a dental visit but the end is in sight   
I spend some time in fixing one minor hitch.  The snorkel intake guard was too far aft and interfered with the aft AA gun.  Then I made a bunch 1 X 1 mm slats for the deck planking.  Tedious work but it has to be done. 
Next step is to stain them in some teak looking stain.  I'm very curious in finding out how they'll look but according to the color chart it should be good, fingers crossed 
I also painted the decks again and the gun bun lids, they look quite nice 
 

This is a pic from the original factory drawings of the AA guns on the O19 when it was build.   To look at the pics Boris send they are a few pages back.
 

This is the same factory drawing with my gun model next to it for comparison.  As all yuns can see I need to do some modifying primarily on the top end.  I think I can do it and make it believable.  It'll be strictly stationary and as long as my guns kinda look similar then I'm a happy camper.
 
Cheers,

Today I installed the deck slats to both AA gun decks.  I have to get used to seeing them on but I think it makes the model.
I stained the slats yesterday with a water soluble stain that's meant for leather.  It was not as easy as I hoped for.  The glue caused the stain to weep out and slightly colored the grey deck paint.  It's also not bonding as well as I thought it should.  It tested okay on a piece of scrap, so go figure.  To prevent the stain from weeping out I had to get some thicker Titebond, that helped a lot.  I would have liked to use CA but I needed to have the time to be able to move it a little, thus the PVA.
 
I also started with installing the railings on the gun decks.  All the stanchions are installed but still need to be trimmed.  They are made from 1 mm brass tubing, they are small enough and nice and stiff.  Then the snorkel exhaust pipe shroud need to me made and installed as well.  The aft hatch opens against it.
 
I also started with the AA gun mods, I think it'll work out okay.  I also cut parts for the lower con door hinges, that'll be a real challenge.
 

You can also see that removed some wood from the gun pedestal sides and front.  Next will be removing some wood on the top so I can install the square looking thingies there and the control wheels and the other things on top.  It all has to fit inside the buns.
 

 
Well, that's it for now
 
Cheers,

Today I installed the deck slats to both AA gun decks.  I have to get used to seeing them on but I think it makes the model.
I stained the slats yesterday with a water soluble stain that's meant for leather.  It was not as easy as I hoped for.  The glue caused the stain to weep out and slightly colored the grey deck paint.  It's also not bonding as well as I thought it should.  It tested okay on a piece of scrap, so go figure.  To prevent the stain from weeping out I had to get some thicker Titebond, that helped a lot.  I would have liked to use CA but I needed to have the time to be able to move it a little, thus the PVA.
 
I also started with installing the railings on the gun decks.  All the stanchions are installed but still need to be trimmed.  They are made from 1 mm brass tubing, they are small enough and nice and stiff.  Then the snorkel exhaust pipe shroud need to me made and installed as well.  The aft hatch opens against it.
 
I also started with the AA gun mods, I think it'll work out okay.  I also cut parts for the lower con door hinges, that'll be a real challenge.
 

You can also see that removed some wood from the gun pedestal sides and front.  Next will be removing some wood on the top so I can install the square looking thingies there and the control wheels and the other things on top.  It all has to fit inside the buns.
 

 
Well, that's it for now
 
Cheers,

Today I installed the deck slats to both AA gun decks.  I have to get used to seeing them on but I think it makes the model.
I stained the slats yesterday with a water soluble stain that's meant for leather.  It was not as easy as I hoped for.  The glue caused the stain to weep out and slightly colored the grey deck paint.  It's also not bonding as well as I thought it should.  It tested okay on a piece of scrap, so go figure.  To prevent the stain from weeping out I had to get some thicker Titebond, that helped a lot.  I would have liked to use CA but I needed to have the time to be able to move it a little, thus the PVA.
 
I also started with installing the railings on the gun decks.  All the stanchions are installed but still need to be trimmed.  They are made from 1 mm brass tubing, they are small enough and nice and stiff.  Then the snorkel exhaust pipe shroud need to me made and installed as well.  The aft hatch opens against it.
 
I also started with the AA gun mods, I think it'll work out okay.  I also cut parts for the lower con door hinges, that'll be a real challenge.
 

You can also see that removed some wood from the gun pedestal sides and front.  Next will be removing some wood on the top so I can install the square looking thingies there and the control wheels and the other things on top.  It all has to fit inside the buns.
 

 
Well, that's it for now
 
Cheers,

Today I installed the deck slats to both AA gun decks.  I have to get used to seeing them on but I think it makes the model.
I stained the slats yesterday with a water soluble stain that's meant for leather.  It was not as easy as I hoped for.  The glue caused the stain to weep out and slightly colored the grey deck paint.  It's also not bonding as well as I thought it should.  It tested okay on a piece of scrap, so go figure.  To prevent the stain from weeping out I had to get some thicker Titebond, that helped a lot.  I would have liked to use CA but I needed to have the time to be able to move it a little, thus the PVA.
 
I also started with installing the railings on the gun decks.  All the stanchions are installed but still need to be trimmed.  They are made from 1 mm brass tubing, they are small enough and nice and stiff.  Then the snorkel exhaust pipe shroud need to me made and installed as well.  The aft hatch opens against it.
 
I also started with the AA gun mods, I think it'll work out okay.  I also cut parts for the lower con door hinges, that'll be a real challenge.
 

You can also see that removed some wood from the gun pedestal sides and front.  Next will be removing some wood on the top so I can install the square looking thingies there and the control wheels and the other things on top.  It all has to fit inside the buns.
 

 
Well, that's it for now
 
Cheers,

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 37 – Stern Timbering 1
 
I have been looking forward to the stern timbering for some time – in fact since first deciding on the subject ship.  At first glance it looks a bit daunting, but the plan view template and accurately lofted patterns turned the assembly into a pretty easy task.  Most of the work was in the lofting, so I included a picture of the pattern sheet for the eight timbers.
 

 
The pattern lofting was a bit complex.  The timbers are angled off of the last cant frame, which is itself at an angle.  Some mental gymnastics were needed to find enough points on the drawings to plot the four curves for each timber.  I did one for a trial and its fit encouraged me to go on and add the scores for the horizontal chocks to the patterns.  Those chocks will be added in Part 38.
 
In the next picture a new version of one of the central timbers shown earlier is set temporarily in place and the bevel against the aft cant frame is being marked.
 

 
The pattern is still on at this stage.  In the next picture, after installing the one shown above, its opposite counterpart is being glued on.  These were made before I decided to loft the scores on the patterns so these will be cut later, in place. The two timbers will later be bolted through the sternpost.
 

 
In the above picture, the vertical scores for the stern timbers can be seen on the cant frames.  The next picture was taken at this stage but from above.
 

 
In the next picture, the first of the angled timbers has been fit into place.  Note the horizontal scores for the filling chocks at the knuckle.
 

 
In the next picture its opposite counterpart is being fit.
 

 
The joint face angles for all these were measured from the plan drawing, printed on the pattern sheet and faced off on the disk sander with the table set at an angle.  Only slight trimming of the sides of the scores was needed and all fit very well as can be seen in the last picture.
 

 
Following this work, the template was removed to allow a final check of the heights of each timber at the top – the “fancy rail” height – before going on to the filling chocks between the timbers.
 
Ed

And here is it again ...
 

 
worm of doubt in my mind
 
Little progress on weekend, mainly slow slow slow precise (trying) painting over rails (I had to use magnify glass and Brush painting with such a thin tip that can be seen only under a magnifying glass) , with 100-200 interruptions by family ...  give me that ... give me this ... where is ... could you ... why do not you ... why did not you ... when you will ... what do you think about ... It is time for ... what happened with ... have you ... 
 
And over that all
 
At one moment in the evening, my daughter came in workshop ... it was cold (timer turned off the heating) so as I am bald, I putted on some dirty cap on top of my head, in working clothes with putty and paint traces every where on it, sitting still in corner on workbench without any visible move, my nose skintight to magnifyer, cigarette in corner of lips, smoke around head, trying to be quite and still as it can be done, only hand with brush ostensibly stoned to Her Majesty, deep concentration, excluded from all around, working on places where 1/2 mm means different of straight line and curvature,  Mendelson or something similar in background, and she said:
 
" You look just as a mad scientist "
 
...

Status now…
 
Next, I am going to grind the decks to a plane surface.
The waterway is still not installed, but a false one – in order not to damage the right waterway during grinding process.
 
Dražen
 

Done... on the port side at least. I'll finish up the starboard side and then attack the quarterdeck outer bulwarks.  Thank heavens they're not as radically shaped.  I do, however, really hate macro as I see some things that need fixing before final sanding, like a few gaps in the planking.
 

That makes two of us.  I'm learning as I go.  I just wish learning wasn't so hard at times.

One thing is certain, if the O19 had its bell on Ladd reef, then it's still there (provided that scavengers haven't wrecked the place by now...)
There is no record of it being taken of the boat to the USS Cod. There was some other stuff taken, which is now in the possession of the US Cod Submarine Memorial in Cleveland, OH.
As far as I know, US submarines left their bell in port during WW2, when they went on patrol. That's why you may see some of them still being used during a 'tolling of the bells' ceremony, which is to commemorate those submariners that are 'still on patrol'. Let me also get confirmation on that.
 
Groetjes,

Still working away and making slow progress. But, the finish line for this stage is in sight. Of course, this is only the end of the beginning.... there's a ton more truss work that must be done.... oh joy....
 
Andy

Little playing and testing with thin wire from paperclip. 
 
If I do not find a thinner and enough strong, and at the same time, arable wire, ring is unnecessary because the whole thing looks a bit bulky
 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 36 – Aftermost Cant Frames (#48)
 
The last picture in the previous posting showed the two aftermost cant frames being assembled.  The same pin indexing was used as discussed in previous posts.  After assembly the frames were beveled.  The first picture shows the deadwood mating surface on one of the pairs being beveled using the disk sander with the table set at the correct angle.  These angles are printed on each frame pattern from generated measurements on the CAD drawing.  They are very accurate and the disk sander reproduces them fairly effortlessly.
 

 
The next picture shows the joint bevel.
 

 
This picture was taken before the outer bevels or the shape at the bearding line were shaped.  The picture shows vertical lines on the pattern aft face that mark the scores for seating the three angled stern timbers that bolt to that side of this frame.
 
In the next picture the lines scores being cut with a razor saw.
 

 
There is also a horizontal score on the forward face of this frame at the “knuckle” of the of the aft hull shape that occurs roughly at the line of the wale.  Horizontal chocks will be inserted in these scores between frames to support the ends of the planking below the wale at the stern.  Similar chocks will be placed between the vertical timbers that shape the circular stern.  This will be clearer later when those timbers get installed.
 
The next picture shows the port frame in its initial fitting into the aft score on the deadwood – held by pins at future bolt locations. 
 

 
In the last part I showed a picture taken earlier with the two central stern timbers installed.  After about an hour of trying to fit the cant frame neatly against one of those and into the score I decided to install the cant frames first.  So the central stern timbers have been removed in these pictures.
 
The three vertical scores on the aft face can be seen in this picture.  The temporary ribband seen in this picture and its starboard counterpart were becoming increasing obstructive to all this work and were soon cut back and removed.
 
The next picture shows the installed frame pair.
 

 
The horizontal score on the forward face can be seen in this picture.
 
The next picture shows the starboard frame clamped for gluing.  The two central stern timbers are being held up in position in this picture.
 

 
To assist in fitting and installing the eight stern timbers that form the curve of the circular stern, a template was made to help with this.  It is shown in the next picture.
 

 
The plywood template is clamped tightly to the two “clamped squares”.  The height at the center of the stern and on each side at about frame 38 was set using the caliper shown in the picture.  The line slopes down slightly going forward.  The template was also horizontally aligned up from the base drawing using the square shown on the port side.  The template is fit over the two installed cant frames. One central timber is loosely fit into its notch in the template.
 
The next task is to loft, make and install the eight timbers that form the circular stern.
 
 
Ed

Well I had to make some drawing too. In order to form the frames and the curvature of the decks. The lower deck serves as a base to make the further building. next is the tweendeck. It is the deck on which the guns are placed.

Preparing for the first sea trails. I coated it in heavy two components varnish the same I use for the big boat.
For my satisfaction it was floating without any list. This means that the hull is proportional and evenly dugout.
After added the "ballast stones" in this case lead shot to keep it stable in heavy storms. The ballast increases the metacentric height of the ship and this is what make the ship stable.
The new waterline will be on the edge of the freeboard because there will be the lower deck of the ship.

Extended stern post. After that I glued strips of ply  to imitate the timber of which the keell is made. Carved the bow figurine. The lion is carved out from the handle of a cheap brush.

I have to learn to stop re-inventing the wheel.  There was reason why Hahn did it the way he did it.  I've scrapped out all previous methods and did his way.
 
First, I spiled a piece of cherry (2 feet wide X 4 inches thick).

 
Then made Mr. Clamp to get the curve.

 
I soaked the wood for about 12 hours and clamped into place.  I ended up with all the curves and bends in the right places.
I can live with this.

 
Now to go glue them in place and get the ebony trim fitted and fixed into place.

More work done on the superstructure. Did some finishing work on the bow plates using epoxy resin. Needs a few more rounds I'm sure! Also built the rest of the side plates of the superstructure so that the shape of the boat is getting close

 
Also did some work on the hatch, periscope and the little hatch that closes the periscope hole when retracted.
 

 
Freek

Thanks for the comments Christian, Remco, John. Grant, Toni, Mark, Joe and Ben. Also all those who "Liked" the post. Much appreciated .
 
Carving the Finishing and Glazing Lights
 
Mark, as per your request - the carving on the Lower Finishing :
 

 

 
I won't be doing any of the "fancy" carving for quite a while yet if I do any of it at all, I'm still undecided - I don't have the tools, and my skills don't extend to the "artistic" type carving yet. Perhaps I can persuade Janos to make a few for me (hint, hint Janos ).
 
I've also "glazed" the Lights with Acrylic (Perspex) and made and fitted the frames and munions. The curved frame in the central light was done by soaking and bending the strip :
 

 
Almost finished with this very enjoyable project. Just four Pilasters to make.
 
  Danny

But wait John .... there's more .
 
Lower Finishing
 
The Lower Finishing is done in three sections - upper and lower sections divided by the Lower Finishing Rail.
 
I first made the upper piece, which is sanded inward on it's lower edge by about 25 degrees. I then cut the molding in.Then I made the rail and glued it to the bottom of the upper piece :
 

 
The lower piece was a bit harder to make, as I incorporated the Drop (the fancy round bit at the bottom). I carved a representation of three "leaves" into the drop :
 

 
The last bit was easy - glue the two assemblies to the bottom of the Quarter Badge :
 

 

 
Some carving still needs to be done to both upper and lower finishing pieces. This should be fairly easy with all parts fitted to the hull (I hope   ).
 
  Danny

good evening, all the big turrets are completed, apart from PE, never managed much today, but never mind the SUN came out - better still - it never wained
 
 

Hoi Remco, thanks for looking for your scrap box and the parts, no problem.  I'll do some browsing on the Internet and see what the model railroad folks have to offer.  I think that O gauge is 1:48 and on the old freight cars the hand brakes had similar hand wheels.
However, I have no problem with "home build" hand wheels that I can cement to the gun mount, not rotatable, just static.  It's all the other paraphernalia that comes with it.  See pic below.
 
Hi ho John, good to hear from you and thanks for your compliment - - - I lucked out with the hinges and lids.  I have been searching for your progress reports on your Morgan, where are they????  
Remco may need some wale oil for the lamps he should make for the captain's cabin 
 
Pretty much a lost day today, again a dental visit but the end is in sight   
I spend some time in fixing one minor hitch.  The snorkel intake guard was too far aft and interfered with the aft AA gun.  Then I made a bunch 1 X 1 mm slats for the deck planking.  Tedious work but it has to be done. 
Next step is to stain them in some teak looking stain.  I'm very curious in finding out how they'll look but according to the color chart it should be good, fingers crossed 
I also painted the decks again and the gun bun lids, they look quite nice 
 

This is a pic from the original factory drawings of the AA guns on the O19 when it was build.   To look at the pics Boris send they are a few pages back.
 

This is the same factory drawing with my gun model next to it for comparison.  As all yuns can see I need to do some modifying primarily on the top end.  I think I can do it and make it believable.  It'll be strictly stationary and as long as my guns kinda look similar then I'm a happy camper.
 
Cheers,

Hoi Marc,
 
I too love everything nautical of the Dutch!  VOC and the fishing vessels.  Of course also the naval war ships.  I wish I could afford the purchase price of the many books available, either in Dutch or English.
 
Cheers,