Piet

Hello friends and thanks to all for your "likes."
 
My day started great, had an early breakfast outside in our screen room on the back patio watching my koi fish frolicking in the pond and listening to the birds. Weather was just fenom      A little later the Admiral showed up to feed the birds and a couple stray cats.
Then with my first cup of morning coffee I sauntered around the yard and ended up in the garage where the build docks are.
 
I had been thinking about the two things that bothered me.
One, the lack of access to the deck torpedo doors for the hinges.
Two, whether to make hinges for the dingy "hangar" hatches or not.
 
So, I decided to try and make hinges for the hatches. I proceeded with cutting shallow slots for the hinges in the  longitudinal deck frame beams. The hinges will be made from file folder stock.  I also cut holes in the hatches for hand pulls.  I'll most likely tackle the hinges tomorrow.
 
Then I moved to the front and cut a part of the deck out over the torpedo lancher area. I was kinda procrastinating but necessity forced the issue. It is now much easier to work on the doors.  They need a lot of fitting because of the compound shape.  It's getting close to finally make and glue the hinges to the doors and frame.  Keep my fingers crossed.
The deck ahead of the deck gun has hatches in the center line of the deck for access below the deck for storage, I presume.  This will work out just fine for me, I need an opening anyhow to mount the torpedo launcher assembly.  The rest will be fake with only the outlines.
 
I also started to make the engine exhaust shroud on the sides of the rear deck structure.  I had to glue two pieces of box wood together to get enough wood to carve these things.  They will be made and installed after I'm finished with the current projects.
 
Okay, here are a few pics to show what I'm talking about.
 

Here I marked the area I needed to cutout. 
 

I laid one of the torpedo doors loosely on the ballast tank for show.
 

This shows the bottoms of the dingy storage area hatch covers. I had not yet made the handholds when this pic was taken. They will eventually be painted in gray.
 

I have laid the hatch covers loosely in.  I also decided to cut them into two pieces as shown on the photos. This may complicate matters for fit.
 

Here I am in the process of cutting the deck portion. I first started to cut through with an Exacto knife  and finished with my small saw to cut through the deck beams.
 

This shows the opened up area.
 

I temporarily placed the torpedo launcher doors in place.  Still needs a lot of fiddling to make them sit right.
 

Here is the approximate outline for the engine exhaust shroud.
 
Cheers,

Thanks to everyone who clicked on "like," appreciate it much.
 
@ Adriaan, hmmmm, detail eh, it's going to extend the time she'll be on the ways but in the long run - - - I'l be very happy with it.  Well, Belgian ale does help and you know what?  I also buy some US micro brew beer brewed after the Belgian formula and method.  I actually miss Oranje Boom!  Hey Sjors, do you read that, Dutch beer   
 
@ Remco, well actually I only have to redo the hinges, all they need is being a little longer so they can lay on top of the deck slats.  Not really a problem.  Green tree plastic?  What is it, where can I buy that and how thick is it.  If possible I'll settle for .70 mm.  I think that this slight difference would not be noticeable and helps with the hinge problem.
 
@ Sjors, yes, I knew that you were born and raised in Mokum!  I used to visit family a lot there (but missed you   ) and almost lived at the Scheepvaart museum! My parents were born and raised there, much family there.  Used to be a great town. 
Ah yes, the bells on the trams!  You need to put one on your buss, wow, that'll be something       also a good way to get fired.  When you are coming to the States can you bring one of these tram bells?
 
@ John txxn5, yup, I lucked out with the exhaust shrouds and the port side worked even better, almost no additional shaping.  I think that the paper hinges will work okay, it's only for static purposes except for a possible demo. I have to stop somewhere with trying to make this into a working model.  The torpedo loading gantries and booms are still to come and the deck torp. launchers.  Oh, and not to forget the stow-able AA guns on the con.
 
Okay, this morning I completed the two longitudinal deck T beams over the deck torp. launcher area. Pic tomorrow.
 
This is it for now. Y'all take care now y'hear and happy modeling.
 
Cheers,

Half of the main deck planking is done. There still are about six strakes of planking to be "nailed" plus a thorough sanding but the bulk of the work is done.
Here are some pictures.
 
Regards,
Alexandru

Just a little update. I started on the cabin and capstans and located them temporarily on the deck. I’ll finish and paint everything before mounting them permanently. But it’s all coming together.
 
In trying to "make it right" I found so many differences between the photos of the Hoga and the drawings of the Nokomis that I put aside the drawings and am working from the photos now.  I find it interesting that between the launch on Dec 1st 1940 and showing up in Pearl Harbor on May 1st 1941 there were already changes made to the Hoga.  I am wanting to build it the way it was in Pearl Harbor but if I paint it all dark gray I’m afraid all the detail will be lost.  I’m thinking of painting it Light gray over dark gray.
 
Open to suggestions.
 
Bob 
 

 

Hello everyone,
 
Well, my "fears" about the dingy compartment hatches were well founded.  Yes, they open nice and flat to the deck leaving no space for the wooden deck stringers.  At my scale they are 1 mm wide and about the same thick.  There will also be wooden stringers on the hatches, thus I need to redo the hinges and also the underside of the part that rests on the center T "iron" stringer/dingy loading boom. This should not pose much of a problem but I'll wait till I start installing the deck stringers.
I don't know yet how I am going to cut 1 X 1 mm plywood strips.  I do have a paper cutter but that may shatter some of the outside plies.  I'll try a small piece tomorrow.  Another way would be glue three pieces of file folder  together to make a three ply paper sheet.  This'll measure .75 mm thick and may cut better.  Next will be to stain them in mahogany.  Hmmmm, another thing to think about.
 
I'm almost satisfied with the deck torpedo compartment doors. Just a little more fiddling and they are ready to be hinged.  I may hold off on that though.  I want to coat them first in poly urethane to harden the paper so that I can clean the ragged edges with a fresh #11 blade tip. 
 
I also made two lateral stringers to help support the two T "iron" longitudinal stringers that'll support the side deck pieces and the center hatches.  These hatches will be the lift-out kind.  I don't know yet what kind of lift-out holes to give them, most likely just round.  However, the oval kind with a center "iron" grip bar would look better 
 
I also started to make the two T "iron" longitudinal deck stringers. I had to hand cut the flat parts with my 65 year old jigsaw with a jeweler's metal cutting blade.  Didn't take much time.  Cutting these narrow strips with my metal sheers would distort them too much. So, tomorrow we'll be soldering them together.
 
Okay, I tried to fit my twisted basswood blocks to the side of the deck for the engine exhaust shroud.  Wow, they came out pretty close to a fit.  I only had to sand some wood away from the center.  I already started to carve them into shape a little.  I'm happy with it. 
Now that I have seen that this crazy method works the port side is now in the vice with my Rube Goldberg twisting apparatus   
I will have to remove the paper from the area where these pieces are glued to to the sides because it'll not be strong enough to my liking.  I'll also use a few small woods crews to secure then to the deck side bulkheads for clamping and extra security.  Hmmm, in that case I may not even have to remove the paper.
 
I also started to make the side rubbing strips, aka wales.  Once that's done I think I can start with treating the hull with poly to harden the paper so I can start cleaning up the fuzzy edges here and there.
 
Below are a few pics of today's progress.  Not much to show for about 6 hours of work 
 

Port side view of the torp. compartment doors loosely fitted. Also the two lateral deck stringers to support the T "irons" for deck and hatch supports.  I made handholds in them to help pull the doors into the closed position for demo purposes.  The original boat did not have them, but then who would actually know? 
 

This is a close-up of the above pic. Yup, a lot of time consuming fiddling to clean things up but I believe that after the poly is on and hardened the paper it'll be a lot easier and neater.
 

This is the set-up to solder an angle piece to a flat piece to make a T bar. They didn't have one in the hardware store and I didn't want to go mail-order.  This works too and now at least I can say it's scratch build. 
 

The starboard engine exhaust shroud in the rough state.  The important thing is that it mates well with the deck side. Sculpting it to the correct shape is another matter
 
Cheers, 

Thanks again to all for clicking "like," much appreciated.
 
Hoi Sjors, well, it's evening here and I have been browsing MSW before coming to my build log.  The Admiral is preparing dinner, wild Alaska salmon I picked up at the grocery store, yum.
I appreciate you visiting my dockyard with two ships on the ways.  It seems that right now I give preference to the O 19.  No prob with not making any comments - - - I feel the vibes though and know you are looking   that's okay too.  
 
Do you great your bus passengers the same way as the tram conductors in Amsterdam used to do, when they still had those old trams?  Nah, you are too young to remember that       They were funny, I enjoyed that.
 
You have actually seen a real submarine?  Wow!  Yeah, they kinda ride low in the water, not much to see, must be something typical for subs      
The last time I saw a real sub was earlier this year, the USS Cod in Cleveland and been in it too, brought back many memories.  I did actually visit the O 19 though, way back in 1940 when my dad took me on board.  Still remember that.
 
You are always welcome in my shipyard Sjors, the popcorn machine is always full and plenty of beer in the fridge, any kind. Here's to you and Anja 
 
Cheers,

Hello everyone,
 
Well, my "fears" about the dingy compartment hatches were well founded.  Yes, they open nice and flat to the deck leaving no space for the wooden deck stringers.  At my scale they are 1 mm wide and about the same thick.  There will also be wooden stringers on the hatches, thus I need to redo the hinges and also the underside of the part that rests on the center T "iron" stringer/dingy loading boom. This should not pose much of a problem but I'll wait till I start installing the deck stringers.
I don't know yet how I am going to cut 1 X 1 mm plywood strips.  I do have a paper cutter but that may shatter some of the outside plies.  I'll try a small piece tomorrow.  Another way would be glue three pieces of file folder  together to make a three ply paper sheet.  This'll measure .75 mm thick and may cut better.  Next will be to stain them in mahogany.  Hmmmm, another thing to think about.
 
I'm almost satisfied with the deck torpedo compartment doors. Just a little more fiddling and they are ready to be hinged.  I may hold off on that though.  I want to coat them first in poly urethane to harden the paper so that I can clean the ragged edges with a fresh #11 blade tip. 
 
I also made two lateral stringers to help support the two T "iron" longitudinal stringers that'll support the side deck pieces and the center hatches.  These hatches will be the lift-out kind.  I don't know yet what kind of lift-out holes to give them, most likely just round.  However, the oval kind with a center "iron" grip bar would look better 
 
I also started to make the two T "iron" longitudinal deck stringers. I had to hand cut the flat parts with my 65 year old jigsaw with a jeweler's metal cutting blade.  Didn't take much time.  Cutting these narrow strips with my metal sheers would distort them too much. So, tomorrow we'll be soldering them together.
 
Okay, I tried to fit my twisted basswood blocks to the side of the deck for the engine exhaust shroud.  Wow, they came out pretty close to a fit.  I only had to sand some wood away from the center.  I already started to carve them into shape a little.  I'm happy with it. 
Now that I have seen that this crazy method works the port side is now in the vice with my Rube Goldberg twisting apparatus   
I will have to remove the paper from the area where these pieces are glued to to the sides because it'll not be strong enough to my liking.  I'll also use a few small woods crews to secure then to the deck side bulkheads for clamping and extra security.  Hmmm, in that case I may not even have to remove the paper.
 
I also started to make the side rubbing strips, aka wales.  Once that's done I think I can start with treating the hull with poly to harden the paper so I can start cleaning up the fuzzy edges here and there.
 
Below are a few pics of today's progress.  Not much to show for about 6 hours of work 
 

Port side view of the torp. compartment doors loosely fitted. Also the two lateral deck stringers to support the T "irons" for deck and hatch supports.  I made handholds in them to help pull the doors into the closed position for demo purposes.  The original boat did not have them, but then who would actually know? 
 

This is a close-up of the above pic. Yup, a lot of time consuming fiddling to clean things up but I believe that after the poly is on and hardened the paper it'll be a lot easier and neater.
 

This is the set-up to solder an angle piece to a flat piece to make a T bar. They didn't have one in the hardware store and I didn't want to go mail-order.  This works too and now at least I can say it's scratch build. 
 

The starboard engine exhaust shroud in the rough state.  The important thing is that it mates well with the deck side. Sculpting it to the correct shape is another matter
 
Cheers, 

Thanks to all for the "like" votes, this seems like a broken record but I want to recognize all yuns who come and visit my build and like what I'm doing.
 
@ Remco, hey, thanks for dropping in    The hatches, hmmmm, yes, they look okay but this morning it struck me that I didn't allow for the teak deck strips    I may have to redo them to raise them some to allow for the added hight above the deck      Happens when you want to see something finished.  Not thinking ahead again?  But, so what, right.  All par for the course. 
 
@ John (Jim Lad), I doubt very much that I'll run out of improvements to me made, just thought of another one 
 
@ Popeye, thanks my friend for your kind words and whenever you come our way please give me a jingle then I can pipe you onboard 
 
@ Sjors, just think of submarines as airplanes without wings, unless of course you know as much about airplanes as submarines            Re Vlaardingen Ambacht, yes, a passport is required and don't forget shots (inentingen)       Not knowing anything about submarines is no excuse for you, you are never lost for words on anything my friend         
 
@ John texxn5, nice trailer John, I'm jealous but in a good sense.  I'm still savoring your visit with us.
 
@ Mark, thank you Mark, yes, I also like the way they came out but as i mentioned to Remco I may have to redo them.  Will check tomorrow and see.
 
 
I'll have very little time tomorrow for work in the shipyard.  First mow the front lawn then in the PM I have to attend our monthly meeting of the colored pencil society chapter here in palm coast.  Perhaps after the meeting.
 
Thanks again for visiting my build and your kind words.
 
Cheers 

Hello everyone,
 
Well, my "fears" about the dingy compartment hatches were well founded.  Yes, they open nice and flat to the deck leaving no space for the wooden deck stringers.  At my scale they are 1 mm wide and about the same thick.  There will also be wooden stringers on the hatches, thus I need to redo the hinges and also the underside of the part that rests on the center T "iron" stringer/dingy loading boom. This should not pose much of a problem but I'll wait till I start installing the deck stringers.
I don't know yet how I am going to cut 1 X 1 mm plywood strips.  I do have a paper cutter but that may shatter some of the outside plies.  I'll try a small piece tomorrow.  Another way would be glue three pieces of file folder  together to make a three ply paper sheet.  This'll measure .75 mm thick and may cut better.  Next will be to stain them in mahogany.  Hmmmm, another thing to think about.
 
I'm almost satisfied with the deck torpedo compartment doors. Just a little more fiddling and they are ready to be hinged.  I may hold off on that though.  I want to coat them first in poly urethane to harden the paper so that I can clean the ragged edges with a fresh #11 blade tip. 
 
I also made two lateral stringers to help support the two T "iron" longitudinal stringers that'll support the side deck pieces and the center hatches.  These hatches will be the lift-out kind.  I don't know yet what kind of lift-out holes to give them, most likely just round.  However, the oval kind with a center "iron" grip bar would look better 
 
I also started to make the two T "iron" longitudinal deck stringers. I had to hand cut the flat parts with my 65 year old jigsaw with a jeweler's metal cutting blade.  Didn't take much time.  Cutting these narrow strips with my metal sheers would distort them too much. So, tomorrow we'll be soldering them together.
 
Okay, I tried to fit my twisted basswood blocks to the side of the deck for the engine exhaust shroud.  Wow, they came out pretty close to a fit.  I only had to sand some wood away from the center.  I already started to carve them into shape a little.  I'm happy with it. 
Now that I have seen that this crazy method works the port side is now in the vice with my Rube Goldberg twisting apparatus   
I will have to remove the paper from the area where these pieces are glued to to the sides because it'll not be strong enough to my liking.  I'll also use a few small woods crews to secure then to the deck side bulkheads for clamping and extra security.  Hmmm, in that case I may not even have to remove the paper.
 
I also started to make the side rubbing strips, aka wales.  Once that's done I think I can start with treating the hull with poly to harden the paper so I can start cleaning up the fuzzy edges here and there.
 
Below are a few pics of today's progress.  Not much to show for about 6 hours of work 
 

Port side view of the torp. compartment doors loosely fitted. Also the two lateral deck stringers to support the T "irons" for deck and hatch supports.  I made handholds in them to help pull the doors into the closed position for demo purposes.  The original boat did not have them, but then who would actually know? 
 

This is a close-up of the above pic. Yup, a lot of time consuming fiddling to clean things up but I believe that after the poly is on and hardened the paper it'll be a lot easier and neater.
 

This is the set-up to solder an angle piece to a flat piece to make a T bar. They didn't have one in the hardware store and I didn't want to go mail-order.  This works too and now at least I can say it's scratch build. 
 

The starboard engine exhaust shroud in the rough state.  The important thing is that it mates well with the deck side. Sculpting it to the correct shape is another matter
 
Cheers, 

I always thought beer was one of the food groups.. it's has vitamins, mineral, grains, and alcohol to make it feel good as it goes down.

Morning Piet, (at this part of the world )
 
I know as much from planes as for sub's….nihil !
 
I follow your build and every time there is a post I gonna check it.
But what can I say?
Wow that looks great ?
Or that's not right ?
The first time I see a submarine was at RDM in Rotterdam.
And that one was in the water.
So I only see the bridge….
I'm not the guy who is yelling  "great work  " when I don't know if it is right or wrong.
Then I can better keep my fingers still and read what there is saying.
But I admire your skills !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

good 'ole Florida.........just as I remember it.....flat!     I used to live in central Florida back in the '70's.   my best friend {my second family} live in Kissimmee..........one of these days I have to make the trip to see them  {a promise I made}

had to run an errand to get a special tool for the Izuzu SUV....too long a story to get into.  the brief of it all is the simple addage:  "that'll teach you!"   {they don't have an emoticon for this}
 
anyway.....when I got back,  it was close for supper.   I did some baking,  so I'd have snacks for work tomorrow.......and I made my famous steak and cheeze subs.  I played with the food budget and bought some frozen peppers and onions............for these though,  I bought fresh veggies.   I'll never buy frozen again!   I instructed the admiral to kick me,  if I ever put stuff like that in the cart again!!!
 
 
wind back before I left................the shims were dry enough to sand,  so I shaped them ......mainly on the inside.  I'll get to the outside after the deck platform is cemented on.
 

 
the lower structure is cemented in place.  I used some odds and ends to strengthen it.
 

 
the underside of the deck platform was painted.
 

 
when I got back from my errand,  I checked and saw that the glue had dried fairly well.
 

 
so.........on went the platform!   I used whatever I could get my hands on to weight it down.
 

 
After the baking.........feeding Gibbs  {who incidentally,  likes brocolli}.......and making supper {a repast that couldn't be beat},  all of the weights were removed from the decking.
 

 
it ended up as a very nice flat surface 
 

 

 
with this complete.......I can now turn to the decking,  and how I'm going to do it.   I'm going to plank it....I think it will look really good.   it's going to be a feat to mimic the main deck,  but I remember that I used crayon,  so half the battle is won.   I want to move on to one of the other builds,  but now I can work on something,  without hauling her back onto the table.   I think I will keep her nearby.   without my other table,  it will be hard........but in it's place,  I have a small book case.....the Half Moon and the United States already occupy the two upper shelves.   the bottom shelf is reserved for the shoe boxes that hold the parts for these ships......I will allow 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 8 – Sternpost

A week’s vacation and some additional necessary research have interrupted the construction work.

The beach at Cape May, New Jersey faces south, looking out across the mouth of the Delaware Bay. It was interesting to contemplate Young America traversing that stretch of water on her last cruise in 1886. Victorian bathers on this beach may have been the last people to see her. My family was – not too surprisingly - unimpressed with this observation.

Before proceeding with the sternpost, I needed to do some additional drafting to confirm the correct height of this and the inner post. This required some speculation on the framing of her circular stern. Some of these decisions are subtle, but need to be made. I finally decided to go with a transomless stern. This will be covered much later – after the aft cant framing.

The first picture shows the sternpost and inner post cut out based on the latest patterns.



The sternpost is 18” wide at the top – tapering to the 16” wide keel breadth at the bottom – same for the inner post.

The aft face of the sternpost is beveled at 21 degrees on each side with the plane of the angles passing through the centers of the pintle bearings. I bearded this angle using the tilting table of the disk sander set at 21 degrees –bringing the bevels to a point on the centerline of the post. The first sanding step is shown in the next picture.



The aft face was then planed back to leave room for the pintles with the outside corners appropriately beveled. The final siding of the post (fore and aft) was then sized on the circular saw.

The post was then tapered slightly – and very carefully - on both sides to keel breadth at the bottom on the belt sander as shown below.



After forming a tenon on the bottom of the post, the mortise for it in the keel was then cut as shown below using a small mortise chisel.



The pieces were then fit. The next picture shows the joint during this process.



The post rakes aft at a slight angle. I left the post slightly over-length at this stage. The next picture shows the post temporarily fitted.



The inner post was then jointed in the same way. The keel is still slightly over-length at this stage. After the posts were fit, the large sternpost knee was cut out, fitted and glued to the keel.



Installing this knee first assures that the sternpost will be raked at the correct angle. The two posts were next glued together, then glued to the knee and the keel as shown below.



The next step will be to finish the sides, cut the rabbets on the sternpost and join it to the rabbet on the keel.


Ed

Thanks mates.
 
Tjerk has discovered the internetshopping, the fool is decorating his room

 
 
 

 
 
View from the back window
 

 
 
 
View from the 'zij-galerij'

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
The chest will have steel bands, they will be delivered later, as Tjerk said
 

 
Jack

Thx friends

I wanna share something I shoot .Unbelieve wher are they. Nobody put them there

Thanks for the warm welcome back guys! Really appreciated.
 
I made the carlings and ledges around the mast partner. As two of the carlings are half lapped under the beams and the mast partner itself is let down 1" on the beam this makes for some interesting cutting and fitting....
 

 

 

 

 
The mast wedges will be simulated by scoring the ring with a graphite dipped scalpel blade (actually it's already done but this other ring is fitted to the mast)
 

 
 
Remco

Hoi Sjors, what's wrong with GOOD belgian beer? Eh, eh? You gonna start something? Just watch it matey or I'll send Adriaan over to kick your but
John and I had a great time as well as with his lovely bride. Diane and I swapped art stories and she looked at some of my drawings and paintings, which she likes.
 
Yes, indeed, there are a few nice Dutch people and I am honored to know them
 
Cheers and stay in good health,

Again thanks to all who clicked "like," I do appreciate your visits and appreciation!
 
Well, no work was done yesterday in the shipyard.  We had a very delightful visit from John txxn5 and his lovely bride Diane.  
 
However, today I did some work and will post a few pics knowing that a certain Dutchman in Schiedam likes pictures     
The very first thing was to glue the dingy hatch hinges to the side stringers of the dingy compartment.
While the glue was drying on the hinges I moved forward again to remove the small forward and aft portions of the deck at the deck torpedo launcher.  John told me to remove them so I'll do as he told me      No, he didn't tell me, I mentioned to him that I was planning on doing it and he agreed.  
So, I did some more surgery and removed the two sections, without doing any damage to the rest 
Then I got some 2 X 4 mm planks to make stringers to glue against the deck beam studs left behind from my cuts.  This'll strengthen the sides of the deck and affords a place for the new deck plates to rest on.
Slots were chiseled in the forward and aft deck bulkheads for these stringers to rest on.
 
In the meantime the glue for dingy hatch hinges had cured enough for me to attempt to glue the hatches to the hinges. I also had to cement a small brass support shelf for the port side hatch to rest on.  I used 5 minute epoxy glue for that.  So I started with the aft starboard hatch and it went very smooth.  Next was it's mate, the forward starboard hatch, that too went off like greased lightning     I must be living right today 
 
While the glue was curing I moved forward again and glued the torpedo compartment deck side stringers in place.
 
Back again to the back and started with the port side dingy hatches. Here too, everything worked as advertise, making me a happy camper 
 
So what next?  I soaked my glued up blocks of basswood overnight and tried to twist them to fit the shape of the deck sides where the engine exhaust shrouds are to be cemented.  I clamped them in my wood vice on the workbench and with my "watchmaker's" water pump pliers and a piece of 12 gauge electrical wire I secured this Rube Goldberg setup to the electrical conduit on the wall.  I hope it'll work, we'll find out tomorrow.  If it does I'll have to do the same thing with the second one.  keep our fingers crossed.
 
Well, that was it for today, it was 17:30 and my legs were getting tired, been standing in the dockyard for a good four hours.
Okay, pics below, here you go Sjors     
 

I cut small strips of file folder paper and folded them with a sharp crease in the center.  I try not to get any glue on the crease area to keep it flexible.
 

I used the same technique as the previous operation.  It worked just fine and didn't damage anything else.  The cuts were about 1mm outside the lines so now I trimmed them to the line and filed them as straight as possible. 
 

These are the 2 X 4 mm stringers to serve as supports for the deck as well as strengthening the sides of the deck.
 

Here they are ready to be glued.
 

Side stringers are glued and clamped.  I used a piece of scrap plywood to position them so the deck plates are all at the same level.
 

I attacked the torpedo side doors - - - again.  I cut the hand holds in and added the center pull bar. To do this I had to remove the paper.  That'll be replaced tomorrow and checked for fit - - - again. If they fit correctly then I'll install the hinges on the bottom.  These will again be made from file folder stock.
 

All dingy compartment hatch hinges are now glued in place.
 

This shows the hatches in open position. There is some spring in the hinges that pull them up some. I may have to find something like a piece of equipment to place on them to keep them on the deck.
 

Here I started with making the T stringers for the deck plate supports and the center hatches.
 

Here is my Rube Goldberg rig to twist the basswood blocks for the exhaust shrouds.
 
 
Cheers,    

Thanks to all for the "like" votes, this seems like a broken record but I want to recognize all yuns who come and visit my build and like what I'm doing.
 
@ Remco, hey, thanks for dropping in    The hatches, hmmmm, yes, they look okay but this morning it struck me that I didn't allow for the teak deck strips    I may have to redo them to raise them some to allow for the added hight above the deck      Happens when you want to see something finished.  Not thinking ahead again?  But, so what, right.  All par for the course. 
 
@ John (Jim Lad), I doubt very much that I'll run out of improvements to me made, just thought of another one 
 
@ Popeye, thanks my friend for your kind words and whenever you come our way please give me a jingle then I can pipe you onboard 
 
@ Sjors, just think of submarines as airplanes without wings, unless of course you know as much about airplanes as submarines            Re Vlaardingen Ambacht, yes, a passport is required and don't forget shots (inentingen)       Not knowing anything about submarines is no excuse for you, you are never lost for words on anything my friend         
 
@ John texxn5, nice trailer John, I'm jealous but in a good sense.  I'm still savoring your visit with us.
 
@ Mark, thank you Mark, yes, I also like the way they came out but as i mentioned to Remco I may have to redo them.  Will check tomorrow and see.
 
 
I'll have very little time tomorrow for work in the shipyard.  First mow the front lawn then in the PM I have to attend our monthly meeting of the colored pencil society chapter here in palm coast.  Perhaps after the meeting.
 
Thanks again for visiting my build and your kind words.
 
Cheers 

That's some serious laundry hanging out there Robbyn, looking very nice.  Re the running rigging - - - one line at a time in the correct order otherwise it'll become difficult to belay them.
 
Cheers, 
 
 

Hi Piet,
 
There is nothing wrong with Belgium beer….
But you are Dutch, and that's why you have to serve Dutch !!!!!! 
Then about the vase….. it's better to put the spare wood somewhere where we can found it if needed.
And because there are big planks, a high vase is a good solution.
Also the fact, I don't have to buy flowers because the vases are in use…….      
 
You are right about the pictures….
Still have to go to Vlaardingen…...
I'll be waiting for snow for a romantic picture   
 
The last thing….I think that we are all having the same problem…money…..
If I had enough, I come to the States to meet all off you !!!!!!!!
But the virus of meeting builders has already started…….
Who knows where it ends…….
 
 
@ Adam,
 
Thank you very much !
What about the ratlines….it's all experience...
After a few 1000 , you know how it works.
It's not that difficult.
Let me see if I can explain it for you .
 
You are using the clove hitch.
Also use a pair of tweezers.
Don't pull to hard so the shrouds are still in one line and not getting curved.
You have to practice to see how it goes.
Print the picture out and keep it next to the build.
Then it should work.
 

 
 

So, during a bit of spare time today I managed to find time to visit the ship yard. I attached my yards  w/sails to the masts. I know, I know, I am supposed to do the running rigging for each yard first, but in all honesty I was having trouble conceptualizing all the lines on the plans , and they just made my head spin.
So, I decided I would go ahead and hang the sails so then I can do the rigging and actually see what I am supposed to be doing. I understand this will make some of it more difficult, as everything is so fragile, but it is the only way my mind seems to comprehend what those lines on the paper mean.
So now, time to run some string!!


 

Installment 12.


Port side view aft.


The Sura and Buaya in combat. My proposed counter carving for my ship. This is based on the statue in front of the Surabaya Zoo. As a youth I visited that zoo many times, we lived about half an hour walk away, a very nice part of the city.


Installed the haws protective plates and temporarily tacked in the hawse cables. Removed the catheads because they are in the way of installing the head railings.


After breaking a few boxwood strips trying to bend them I finally managed to get six bend.  Bending them against the
thin edge side was not agreeable with the wood. Here is the top one temporarily clamped on for a visual look.


Head railing pieces, for the starboard side.


Head railings installed, anchor catheads removed, new ones to be made to it.
 

Cheers,

Installment 11.


Some discussion about the ship’s bell. Amateur Jan thought they definitely had one and hung in the helm’s man location. 
Tried my hand at it on my DB-200 Unimat but it was way too large. I made a second one and it seemed right. I managed to install a hook in helm’s man quarters and in trying to hang the bell it dropped down through the helm opening into the bilges below. I made a second one and after closing the holes it mounted without a hitch. A US dime is 7 ½ mm in diameter.


The ship's bell hanging in its place. It even has a clapper.


Started to install the side galleries. The windows for the captain and officer/passenger compartments are here cut out.


side gallery work in progress.


Side gallery and windows for the officers/passengers cabins completed.


Working on installing window pain muntings.


Painted the clinker planking, installed the main and mizzenmast chain plates.


Port side view looking forward with the chain plates installed. I had to replace the mizzenmast with a slightly taller one so the shrouds would miss the poop deck railing.
 
Cheers,