Louie da fly

I'm late to the party.  Louie da Fly ate all the popcorn.
 
Very nice build!  What is next?  I know of a good cog kit.

Added some uprights to support  a crossbeam for belaying points.
 
     
 
Capstan complete
 

 
and dry fitted, along with the three-sheave knight (funny, why does that phrase make me think . . . Momma told me not to come?)
 

 
Steven

What a wonderful idea. I'm not sure if you already know about the Sutton Hoo Ship's Company, who are building a full-sized replica in the UK? https://www.facebook.com/saxonship
 
Steven

Added some uprights to support  a crossbeam for belaying points.
 
     
 
Capstan complete
 

 
and dry fitted, along with the three-sheave knight (funny, why does that phrase make me think . . . Momma told me not to come?)
 

 
Steven

Remember, there's two inner bulwark planks. These go a long way towards hiding glue oopsies.

Oh!  That's right.  Still, I should strive to be more careful.

It's not nice to make fun of the poor boat builders

Added some uprights to support  a crossbeam for belaying points.
 
     
 
Capstan complete
 

 
and dry fitted, along with the three-sheave knight (funny, why does that phrase make me think . . . Momma told me not to come?)
 

 
Steven

Added some uprights to support  a crossbeam for belaying points.
 
     
 
Capstan complete
 

 
and dry fitted, along with the three-sheave knight (funny, why does that phrase make me think . . . Momma told me not to come?)
 

 
Steven

Added some uprights to support  a crossbeam for belaying points.
 
     
 
Capstan complete
 

 
and dry fitted, along with the three-sheave knight (funny, why does that phrase make me think . . . Momma told me not to come?)
 

 
Steven

Added some uprights to support  a crossbeam for belaying points.
 
     
 
Capstan complete
 

 
and dry fitted, along with the three-sheave knight (funny, why does that phrase make me think . . . Momma told me not to come?)
 

 
Steven

Added some uprights to support  a crossbeam for belaying points.
 
     
 
Capstan complete
 

 
and dry fitted, along with the three-sheave knight (funny, why does that phrase make me think . . . Momma told me not to come?)
 

 
Steven

Thanks, Siggi. That's beautiful work. Now I have two different media to try when I next want to have invisible gluing. 
 
I've changed my mind about the knight for the main halyard. The Lomellina was considerably smaller than the Great Harry, and for her a two-sheave knight was enough for the main halyard. But I think for a ship the size of the Great Harry, a three-sheave knight would be more appropriate.
 

 
The capstan may have had a bigger diameter to allow for more bars, but with the design I'm working from that would have needed three through-holes in the drum, which would have  made for problems with the height of the bars above the deck. So I've kept it at the same size.
 

 
It just needs the cleats to be trimmed and it's complete. 
 
Steven

Thanks, Druxey. I haven't tried that.

Thanks, Siggi. That's beautiful work. Now I have two different media to try when I next want to have invisible gluing. 
 
I've changed my mind about the knight for the main halyard. The Lomellina was considerably smaller than the Great Harry, and for her a two-sheave knight was enough for the main halyard. But I think for a ship the size of the Great Harry, a three-sheave knight would be more appropriate.
 

 
The capstan may have had a bigger diameter to allow for more bars, but with the design I'm working from that would have needed three through-holes in the drum, which would have  made for problems with the height of the bars above the deck. So I've kept it at the same size.
 

 
It just needs the cleats to be trimmed and it's complete. 
 
Steven

Thanks, Druxey. I haven't tried that.

Hmm, it seems to me that step 3 should be after step 4. The wales aren't especially thick planks, they're glued on over the top after the planking is done. If you look at the note at the bottom of the section drawing "Plank the hull completely with strips mm 1x3. Then apply wales which must be shaped from mm 1x5 strips", this tells you what planks are needed for what - the main planking is from strips 1 mm (millimetre) thick by 3 mm wide and the wales are from strips 1 mm thick x 5 mm wide, and that the wales go on after the planking.
 
It seems to me that the terms "shams side" and "covering of the oars shams" means "false side" and "false oar covering" because they refer to the outrigger for the oars - which is a sort of "false hull" - rather than the hull itself . But I think you use the same 1x3 mm planks for the outriggers - you'd have to check whether you have the right amount of planking.
 
In fact I think it would be a wise idea to get hold of all your timber before you do anything else and spread it out by size (and type of wood - it looks like the decking is made of a light coloured wood and the outer planking from dark wood) and see if you can work out what each bunch is for.
 
Also if you have trouble with the English translation of an instruction, try typing the Italian instruction into Google Translate and see if it makes some sense - that's how I worked out what they seem to mean by "sham". For example, "inferior deck" just means "lower deck", and in the cross-section "banchi" means oarbenches, "ponte" means deck (you're at least lucky with the translation with this one - the Italian word is often translated as "bridge", which causes a lot of confusion to us English-speakers).
 
And I'd highly recommend you have a good look at the above build logs for this model. I think they might answer a lot of questions for you.
 
Steven

I just read the instructions. SHEESH! No wonder you're confused! Unfortunately the person who translated them into English had very little idea.
 
My understanding of step 3 is "Nail and glue the wales to the frames indicated".
 
So, what is a wale? It's basically a thicker, heavier plank which gives the hull greater longitudinal strength. Here's my dromon with just the wales attached (note: I built mine a different way from yours - I used a "plug" - a bit of wood the same shape as the hull and planked over that, then added the frames afterward.)
 

 
and here it is fully planked and removed from the plug - you can see how the wales reinforce the planks.
 

 
So look for some bits of wood that look like they'll fit the bill. Do you have a diagram which shows the wales?
 
As for the planking, I can't really help you. The bundle of timber for the planking probably contains more pieces than the bundle for the decking.
 
But there have been at least two build logs for the same model -  
 and 
 
I hope they can help you. Messis also did an Amati bireme in 2015, but I couldn't find it in a search.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Steven
 
 
 
 

I just read the instructions. SHEESH! No wonder you're confused! Unfortunately the person who translated them into English had very little idea.
 
My understanding of step 3 is "Nail and glue the wales to the frames indicated".
 
So, what is a wale? It's basically a thicker, heavier plank which gives the hull greater longitudinal strength. Here's my dromon with just the wales attached (note: I built mine a different way from yours - I used a "plug" - a bit of wood the same shape as the hull and planked over that, then added the frames afterward.)
 

 
and here it is fully planked and removed from the plug - you can see how the wales reinforce the planks.
 

 
So look for some bits of wood that look like they'll fit the bill. Do you have a diagram which shows the wales?
 
As for the planking, I can't really help you. The bundle of timber for the planking probably contains more pieces than the bundle for the decking.
 
But there have been at least two build logs for the same model -  
 and 
 
I hope they can help you. Messis also did an Amati bireme in 2015, but I couldn't find it in a search.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Steven
 
 
 
 

Thanks, Siggi. That's beautiful work. Now I have two different media to try when I next want to have invisible gluing. 
 
I've changed my mind about the knight for the main halyard. The Lomellina was considerably smaller than the Great Harry, and for her a two-sheave knight was enough for the main halyard. But I think for a ship the size of the Great Harry, a three-sheave knight would be more appropriate.
 

 
The capstan may have had a bigger diameter to allow for more bars, but with the design I'm working from that would have needed three through-holes in the drum, which would have  made for problems with the height of the bars above the deck. So I've kept it at the same size.
 

 
It just needs the cleats to be trimmed and it's complete. 
 
Steven

I just read the instructions. SHEESH! No wonder you're confused! Unfortunately the person who translated them into English had very little idea.
 
My understanding of step 3 is "Nail and glue the wales to the frames indicated".
 
So, what is a wale? It's basically a thicker, heavier plank which gives the hull greater longitudinal strength. Here's my dromon with just the wales attached (note: I built mine a different way from yours - I used a "plug" - a bit of wood the same shape as the hull and planked over that, then added the frames afterward.)
 

 
and here it is fully planked and removed from the plug - you can see how the wales reinforce the planks.
 

 
So look for some bits of wood that look like they'll fit the bill. Do you have a diagram which shows the wales?
 
As for the planking, I can't really help you. The bundle of timber for the planking probably contains more pieces than the bundle for the decking.
 
But there have been at least two build logs for the same model -  
 and 
 
I hope they can help you. Messis also did an Amati bireme in 2015, but I couldn't find it in a search.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Steven
 
 
 
 

I've stained the hull below the waterline, using a mix of black and dark tan boot polish. Worked quite well.
 

 
This is how it was before - just too light in colour:
 

 
and finished the breechings on the cannons - a bit of a problem with glue spread everywhere - I'll have to remove the surplus.
 

 
And working on the knight and the capstan for the main halyard. The capstan needs the rest of the cleats put on it before it's complete. It's based on the one from the Lomellina wreck of 1516 - nearest we have to the right time and place. I have an e-book which purports to show the Mary Rose capstan, but as far as I'm aware it was never recovered, so the e-book one must be based on speculation, so it's no more reliable than my own.
 

 
And here's the knight dry fitted. I won't glue it in place until after I've threaded the lanyards through it. Otherwise I'm just making my life difficult.
 
      
 
 
Steven

I've stained the hull below the waterline, using a mix of black and dark tan boot polish. Worked quite well.
 

 
This is how it was before - just too light in colour:
 

 
and finished the breechings on the cannons - a bit of a problem with glue spread everywhere - I'll have to remove the surplus.
 

 
And working on the knight and the capstan for the main halyard. The capstan needs the rest of the cleats put on it before it's complete. It's based on the one from the Lomellina wreck of 1516 - nearest we have to the right time and place. I have an e-book which purports to show the Mary Rose capstan, but as far as I'm aware it was never recovered, so the e-book one must be based on speculation, so it's no more reliable than my own.
 

 
And here's the knight dry fitted. I won't glue it in place until after I've threaded the lanyards through it. Otherwise I'm just making my life difficult.
 
      
 
 
Steven

I've stained the hull below the waterline, using a mix of black and dark tan boot polish. Worked quite well.
 

 
This is how it was before - just too light in colour:
 

 
and finished the breechings on the cannons - a bit of a problem with glue spread everywhere - I'll have to remove the surplus.
 

 
And working on the knight and the capstan for the main halyard. The capstan needs the rest of the cleats put on it before it's complete. It's based on the one from the Lomellina wreck of 1516 - nearest we have to the right time and place. I have an e-book which purports to show the Mary Rose capstan, but as far as I'm aware it was never recovered, so the e-book one must be based on speculation, so it's no more reliable than my own.
 

 
And here's the knight dry fitted. I won't glue it in place until after I've threaded the lanyards through it. Otherwise I'm just making my life difficult.
 
      
 
 
Steven

I've stained the hull below the waterline, using a mix of black and dark tan boot polish. Worked quite well.
 

 
This is how it was before - just too light in colour:
 

 
and finished the breechings on the cannons - a bit of a problem with glue spread everywhere - I'll have to remove the surplus.
 

 
And working on the knight and the capstan for the main halyard. The capstan needs the rest of the cleats put on it before it's complete. It's based on the one from the Lomellina wreck of 1516 - nearest we have to the right time and place. I have an e-book which purports to show the Mary Rose capstan, but as far as I'm aware it was never recovered, so the e-book one must be based on speculation, so it's no more reliable than my own.
 

 
And here's the knight dry fitted. I won't glue it in place until after I've threaded the lanyards through it. Otherwise I'm just making my life difficult.
 
      
 
 
Steven