Louie da fly

Thanks for the tips guys, I think I’ll leave it how it is and then once everything is on come back and if it stands out then try some dry brushing and perhaps get some washes but I’ll leave that for now as it’s ground the build almost to a halt waiting for it to fix itself!! 
I’ve been lacking spare time but apart from making 12 little binoculars and putting the A/A guns on I’ve completed the super structure build and just have to paint it. Everything now seems to take ages to do tiny details. Negotiated with the carpet monster... traded an hour of my time for one tiny piece of PE!
Made 6 searchlights and cut out some of the windows as I think it looks better but it’s fiddly work and had to glue some of the frames back on as the knife loved taking them clean off!
 

 
but once on looked the part.
 

 
also started on the anchor area.
so will have to research that to try get it looking right.
 

 
To add to the slow progress everything has to be made then painted away from the ship. No more sub part construction like the superstructure, which I really enjoyed.
Feels like I’m moving into the final third of the build now. Deck furniture and all the small but many details

A progress update so you can see what she looks like at this stage. Hard to get a pic of the whole ship and also any details!
 

 

OOOPS!
 
I got a little impatient. I was trying to remove this oarsman from his (supposedly temporarily glued) position on his bench so I could do the final carving, smoothing and painting. I'd gooped isopropanol onto the bench about three times - surely enough to weaken the bond so I could gently lever it off.
 
Not so - I must have put too much glue on his seat, and not put enough isopropanol on to dissolve it, and not waited long enough. And the operative word above is "gently". Yes, I levered too hard, too soon. And crack - the bench broke away from its supports and in fact the wood of the bench broke as well. You can see a bit of it still stuck to the oarsman's seat . . .
 
  
 
Not to worry. When I first made the benches I made a few too many. So it was the work of a few minutes to replace the bench with a new one, and all's well again.
 
   
 
 
I still feel like a twit, though . . .

Agreed.

OOOPS!
 
I got a little impatient. I was trying to remove this oarsman from his (supposedly temporarily glued) position on his bench so I could do the final carving, smoothing and painting. I'd gooped isopropanol onto the bench about three times - surely enough to weaken the bond so I could gently lever it off.
 
Not so - I must have put too much glue on his seat, and not put enough isopropanol on to dissolve it, and not waited long enough. And the operative word above is "gently". Yes, I levered too hard, too soon. And crack - the bench broke away from its supports and in fact the wood of the bench broke as well. You can see a bit of it still stuck to the oarsman's seat . . .
 
  
 
Not to worry. When I first made the benches I made a few too many. So it was the work of a few minutes to replace the bench with a new one, and all's well again.
 
   
 
 
I still feel like a twit, though . . .

Another three oarsmen complete and two more started.
 
When I began I put the first few oarsmen in place somewhere amidships and worked both forward and aft from there, so I was able to add four new oarsmen each time - two (one each side) towards the bow of those already in place, and two aft. But now I've filled all the forward benches right up to the bow, so the only empty benches are towards the stern. So I can only add two oars and oarsmen each time. But on the bright side, there are now only 6 left to do (sigh) including the two aftermost guys who don't have their arms yet.
 

 
In between times I've got back onto adding the ropes which hold the oars to the tholes - it's a tholeless task.
 
Here are the larboard ones with a dab of glue holding each rope to its thole.
 
 
 
I got a bright idea of how to pull the rope into its correct position across the oar, without having to sit like a twit holding each rope in turn while the glue dried. Whack a peg on the end, pull the rope taut and hang the peg from something convenient, so its weight keeps the rope taut and in position, and add another dab of glue to hold the rope to the oar at that point.
 

 
And then once that's done, loop the rope right around the oar and repeat the process.
 

 
Once all that's done I'll trim the hanging ends of the rope so it just looks like a loop around the thole and oar.
 
I can only do a few at a time because the pegs get in each other's way. But once one set is done and glued in place, I can move on and do another set.  
 
Six more to go. I'm looking forward to it all being finished!

It's good that you've caught that problem with the decks at this stage, rather than having to fix it down the track which would involve a lot more work (and authentic Viking cursing!)
 
The planking looks very good. Those are beautiful curves. Tell Floki to take a back seat.

Another three oarsmen complete and two more started.
 
When I began I put the first few oarsmen in place somewhere amidships and worked both forward and aft from there, so I was able to add four new oarsmen each time - two (one each side) towards the bow of those already in place, and two aft. But now I've filled all the forward benches right up to the bow, so the only empty benches are towards the stern. So I can only add two oars and oarsmen each time. But on the bright side, there are now only 6 left to do (sigh) including the two aftermost guys who don't have their arms yet.
 

 
In between times I've got back onto adding the ropes which hold the oars to the tholes - it's a tholeless task.
 
Here are the larboard ones with a dab of glue holding each rope to its thole.
 
 
 
I got a bright idea of how to pull the rope into its correct position across the oar, without having to sit like a twit holding each rope in turn while the glue dried. Whack a peg on the end, pull the rope taut and hang the peg from something convenient, so its weight keeps the rope taut and in position, and add another dab of glue to hold the rope to the oar at that point.
 

 
And then once that's done, loop the rope right around the oar and repeat the process.
 

 
Once all that's done I'll trim the hanging ends of the rope so it just looks like a loop around the thole and oar.
 
I can only do a few at a time because the pegs get in each other's way. But once one set is done and glued in place, I can move on and do another set.  
 
Six more to go. I'm looking forward to it all being finished!

OOOPS!
 
I got a little impatient. I was trying to remove this oarsman from his (supposedly temporarily glued) position on his bench so I could do the final carving, smoothing and painting. I'd gooped isopropanol onto the bench about three times - surely enough to weaken the bond so I could gently lever it off.
 
Not so - I must have put too much glue on his seat, and not put enough isopropanol on to dissolve it, and not waited long enough. And the operative word above is "gently". Yes, I levered too hard, too soon. And crack - the bench broke away from its supports and in fact the wood of the bench broke as well. You can see a bit of it still stuck to the oarsman's seat . . .
 
  
 
Not to worry. When I first made the benches I made a few too many. So it was the work of a few minutes to replace the bench with a new one, and all's well again.
 
   
 
 
I still feel like a twit, though . . .

Thanks for the likes. 
 
No - I'm very aware of how far the standard of this model falls below museum quality. Ask me again in another twenty years. 

Hi Doug, and welcome to MSW!
 
To be honest, I've found that model-building is like riding a bicycle - you might get a little rusty, but you never lose the ability even after many years away from it. And many of the skills you've developed from your earlier modelling are transferable to ships.
 
I'm not familiar with any of these kits - they're all very attractive - but on googling them the Lady Nelson and Polaris both have step-by-step video instructions available on-line, and apparently the Smuggler has a 96 page instruction book. I see that the revenue cutter is a solid hull (and there's at least one buildlog on MSW for it) - I couldn't figure out whether the Smuggler is as well - it says "Laminated basswod hull" - does that mean it's solid?
 
I think that any of these kits would be a worthwhile project. And while planking can be a pretty steep learning curve, that shouldn't be a reason not to go that route. There are plenty of examples and tutorials available, as well as lots of advice from people who've been there before. A methodical approach without rushing is probably your most valuable tool. And asking questions if you feel stumped. The membership here is very helpful and willing to give advice - often the problem you're up against has been encountered (and solved) before.
 
And yes, it can feel intimidating seeing the excellent work the best of us produces. I'm still awestruck by the stuff other people produce - things I feel "I'll never be that good". But MSW has every level of skill and ability among its members, and every member started somewhere. You will make mistakes, you can be sure of that. But not mistakes all of us haven't made at some time or another. And most of them can be remedied.
 
Down the track you'll probably look at your first build and think aargh - I got that wrong and that wrong, and I was too careless with the other thing. As we all do. It's a learning process, and as with anything else your skills (and your models) improve with each project you do. Each mistake gives valuable lessons for next time - if your second build isn't better than your first, there's something wrong. So don't get too intimidated, and don't let that be a reason not to start. 
 
When you've decided on the model you want to build and received your kit, make sure you start a build log. There are instructions here on how to go about it.
 
 
Best wishes, and I look forward to seeing your ship taking form.
 
 

OOOPS!
 
I got a little impatient. I was trying to remove this oarsman from his (supposedly temporarily glued) position on his bench so I could do the final carving, smoothing and painting. I'd gooped isopropanol onto the bench about three times - surely enough to weaken the bond so I could gently lever it off.
 
Not so - I must have put too much glue on his seat, and not put enough isopropanol on to dissolve it, and not waited long enough. And the operative word above is "gently". Yes, I levered too hard, too soon. And crack - the bench broke away from its supports and in fact the wood of the bench broke as well. You can see a bit of it still stuck to the oarsman's seat . . .
 
  
 
Not to worry. When I first made the benches I made a few too many. So it was the work of a few minutes to replace the bench with a new one, and all's well again.
 
   
 
 
I still feel like a twit, though . . .

Not a twit, Steven.  We've all done that kind of thing.   "Oops" followed by a few choice words.   I do love the way this is looking.

You'd better watch out, for the Australian tree bear loves twits
 
Anyway Louis 'Twitty' Fly, nothing that couldn't be fixed in a jiffy, can't spot it in that last photograph. The only problem may be the rower having a bulge ...

OOOPS!
 
I got a little impatient. I was trying to remove this oarsman from his (supposedly temporarily glued) position on his bench so I could do the final carving, smoothing and painting. I'd gooped isopropanol onto the bench about three times - surely enough to weaken the bond so I could gently lever it off.
 
Not so - I must have put too much glue on his seat, and not put enough isopropanol on to dissolve it, and not waited long enough. And the operative word above is "gently". Yes, I levered too hard, too soon. And crack - the bench broke away from its supports and in fact the wood of the bench broke as well. You can see a bit of it still stuck to the oarsman's seat . . .
 
  
 
Not to worry. When I first made the benches I made a few too many. So it was the work of a few minutes to replace the bench with a new one, and all's well again.
 
   
 
 
I still feel like a twit, though . . .

OOOPS!
 
I got a little impatient. I was trying to remove this oarsman from his (supposedly temporarily glued) position on his bench so I could do the final carving, smoothing and painting. I'd gooped isopropanol onto the bench about three times - surely enough to weaken the bond so I could gently lever it off.
 
Not so - I must have put too much glue on his seat, and not put enough isopropanol on to dissolve it, and not waited long enough. And the operative word above is "gently". Yes, I levered too hard, too soon. And crack - the bench broke away from its supports and in fact the wood of the bench broke as well. You can see a bit of it still stuck to the oarsman's seat . . .
 
  
 
Not to worry. When I first made the benches I made a few too many. So it was the work of a few minutes to replace the bench with a new one, and all's well again.
 
   
 
 
I still feel like a twit, though . . .

Beautiful work, Mike.

This is a very interesting build. I am impressed by the way you've re-purposed everyday items to build the model instead of paying huge amounts for specialised materials (that may not produce a better result anyway).

Wonderful work, Hellmuht. The sewing gives it a completely different look from most models.

OOOPS!
 
I got a little impatient. I was trying to remove this oarsman from his (supposedly temporarily glued) position on his bench so I could do the final carving, smoothing and painting. I'd gooped isopropanol onto the bench about three times - surely enough to weaken the bond so I could gently lever it off.
 
Not so - I must have put too much glue on his seat, and not put enough isopropanol on to dissolve it, and not waited long enough. And the operative word above is "gently". Yes, I levered too hard, too soon. And crack - the bench broke away from its supports and in fact the wood of the bench broke as well. You can see a bit of it still stuck to the oarsman's seat . . .
 
  
 
Not to worry. When I first made the benches I made a few too many. So it was the work of a few minutes to replace the bench with a new one, and all's well again.
 
   
 
 
I still feel like a twit, though . . .

Thanks for the likes. 
 
No - I'm very aware of how far the standard of this model falls below museum quality. Ask me again in another twenty years. 

Another three oarsmen complete and two more started.
 
When I began I put the first few oarsmen in place somewhere amidships and worked both forward and aft from there, so I was able to add four new oarsmen each time - two (one each side) towards the bow of those already in place, and two aft. But now I've filled all the forward benches right up to the bow, so the only empty benches are towards the stern. So I can only add two oars and oarsmen each time. But on the bright side, there are now only 6 left to do (sigh) including the two aftermost guys who don't have their arms yet.
 

 
In between times I've got back onto adding the ropes which hold the oars to the tholes - it's a tholeless task.
 
Here are the larboard ones with a dab of glue holding each rope to its thole.
 
 
 
I got a bright idea of how to pull the rope into its correct position across the oar, without having to sit like a twit holding each rope in turn while the glue dried. Whack a peg on the end, pull the rope taut and hang the peg from something convenient, so its weight keeps the rope taut and in position, and add another dab of glue to hold the rope to the oar at that point.
 

 
And then once that's done, loop the rope right around the oar and repeat the process.
 

 
Once all that's done I'll trim the hanging ends of the rope so it just looks like a loop around the thole and oar.
 
I can only do a few at a time because the pegs get in each other's way. But once one set is done and glued in place, I can move on and do another set.  
 
Six more to go. I'm looking forward to it all being finished!

This is a very interesting build. I am impressed by the way you've re-purposed everyday items to build the model instead of paying huge amounts for specialised materials (that may not produce a better result anyway).

Hi @Binho,
 
You are correct about the 1909 drawing by Glende that I posted earlier. The only difference is that he had the measurements from the excavation in the drawings and notes he took as parts came out of the ground. Yes, some of his measurements were off, but time and again in published materials I see Ms Bischoff and Mr Finderup citing them as the "true" numbers in general even if they're not always correct in specific. For example they used Glende's numbers to calculate how much the wood had shrunk between excavation and the present day.
 
The off axis frames cannot be any way other than off axis because the plank clamps were made before the planks were attached to the hull. The frames must align with the plank clamps or they cannot be sewn to the hull.
 
Edit: Sorry, I forgot that I'd already replied! XD

Hi James, and welcome to MSW! The Red Baron looks like a good kit to start off with. not too difficult, but with a few challenges to keep youfrom getting bored.
 
Exactly. I know (to my cost - see my latest post on my own build log) what comes of hurrying too much. I'm afraid I share your problem with rushing into things- but not as bad as it was. I do find ship modelling develops forces you into being more patient. Follow your own advice, take it at your own pace, and enjoy the ride. After (not too long) a while you'll find yourself with a beautiful model that you can be proud of.
 
Make sure you start a build log - it's the best way to get encouragement, help and advice. You'll find the people here are very friendly and helpful. And don't be afraid to ask questions - there's no such thing as a stupid one.
 
A very good strategy. It'll pay off in the long run.
 
And have fun with it! That's what it's all about.