Louie da fly

WalrusGuy, ask away - there are no "stupid questions", and those who know about this stuff are probably checking on this log every now and then. I'll leave it to those more knowledgeable to give the proper information, but I'm pretty sure that for a start those braces (the ropes at the ends of the yards) should lead aft, not forward, on the fore and main masts.
 
[Edit] Damn! Jim Lad beat me to it! That's the trouble with both being in the same time zone . . . [/Edit]

Hi Devildog.Looks like you're making good progress, and I agree with the assessments of the others. One point is that with that very tight curve at the stern you might find planking there a bit of a challenge. Steaming should help a lot, but you might find you have to try it several times before you get it exactly right.
 
If that's the case, then do it over and over again, rather than settle for "almost right". You'll be glad down the track, because otherwise it will sneer at you every time you look at it, and remind you that with a bit more patience you could have got it right - don't ask me how I know. And this applies to every aspect of the model.Patience and persistence are what it's all about (it's not a race).

You may already have these, and not so much to change anything in your model, but for additional information that might be of use in resolving questions about construction details, you might like to look at 
https://www.academia.edu/19499820/Construction_Features_of_Doel_1_a_14th_Century_Cog_found_in_Flanders?email_work_card=view-paper
https://www.academia.edu/27506746/Doel_2_a_second_14th_century_cog_wrecked_in_den_Deurganck_Doel_Belgium
https://www.academia.edu/40371597/The_IJsselcog_project_from_excavation_to_3D_reconstruction

Looks very good, Silverman. Youre making great progress.
 
I also like your carpenter. Though this period isn't my specialty, he does seem to be wearing gear from about the right time, with the pigeon-chest doublet and little skirt and all.

Homer says that Odyseus was the leader of 12 ships, which all hat red cheeks. Thats in Illias 2.637. It refers at this moment at the beginning of the expedition to Troy. Further on, is to said that Odyseus was not their King. He wssnt a King, he was the leader of a House (οίκος). There was no State, that time society's strusture was based on Οικος (Houses). It seems Odyseus Οικος was a strong one, so he was the leader among other Houses that they had relations with.

I know the definition of an expert, so look you no!
Indeed and to goodness
But I do speak French like a native*
 
* of Scotland

During the "hot" Italian summer, updates continued slowly ...
however they continued.
the next work had to concern the laying of the latin sail, but before inserting it I preferred to finish the sheets and the walls of the mainsail,


 
for the realization of the big cable that passes from the clew of the main sail I made a flat cable with 3 wires stopping them with the knot called "chicken foot"

 

 
and finishing the maneuvers

 
I rearranged and finished almost all the maneuvers,
detail of the main mast restraint and double pole in front of the mast with the hoists

 
I also corrected the position of the anchor, removing the cables that tied it previously and making the changes to stop them by making brass eyelets to put the cable that binds them to the side of the ship
 

 
After the corrections I put on the latin sail, but first I had to "fill it" with wind, since the sails are swollen as if the wind came from the stern, even if it is not the best condition to sail with the sails
to do this I used the usual system, water and pva,

 
but before moving on to the installation I ordered the maneuvers of the quarterdeck, cleaning the bridge from the pieces of wire and ending them at the ankles with skeins or alternatively on the bridge,

 
later I laid the Latin sail of the mizzen mast

see you next time
black Wolf
 
 
 

I thank you for the appreciation,
the small corrugations on the sail surface are due to the tension of the thread for sewing the  panels,I think that even in real sails when they "swelled" under the action of the wind these undulations formed
The work continued with the laying of the cage sail and the preparation of the maneuvers for the sail, small in size but complex in the preparation due to the "sheets" which are formed by the gratile of the sail itself which at the height of the clews on the lower part are transformed into sheets which, passing from the violin block located on the mast of the mainsail, end with a block that acts as a hoist, stopping on the bridge

 
the cable of the edge of the sail, which passes from the blocks to end on the bridge is very large, for this reason it was necessary to enlarge the holes of the blocks with the electric drill ... (with great happiness) however it went well, I did no damage

 
the cage sail had also been laid

 

 
see you next time
black Wolf

Thanks forthe links Louie! I have not read these and they seem to contain interesting bits about the decking.
 
There's not much to report on the build, the framing continues. I printed a couple of figures to have as size references to get a better feeling of the scale. Usually I just work on one frame at a time, but now I drew all remaining on the wood as I don't think that neither my girlfriend or neighbours much would appreciate sawing at 6 am on a sunday.
 
The framing looks uneven. Which it should. There are three different spacings between them and one extra big gap where the mast steps are.
 
One of the frames got a bit big and that will be taken care of when smoothing them all out and making the bevels.

Thanks so much for the detailed response! I'm glad I found this log as I've learnt so much already.  I'll take a look in that sub forum for some more learning. And apologies @Devildog36 for hijacking your build log, I'll try to do better 🙂 
 
A clipper is in my to-do list, so I will definitely follow along to see how she progresses. So far she's coming along very nicely! 

That's a lesson we all need to learn at some point and don't ask me how I know either!

Ironic, I was raised metric and had to learn a lot when I got into industry
 
Why not?? What is wrong with having peas?
My bugbear (well one of my bugbears) is US and Imperial liquid measure.  In a discussion several years ago about an absolute weight to calibrate a scale an American vouchsafed "A pint's a pound the world around"  Full marks for rhyming, 7/10 for scansion.  Nul Points for not being aware that a "pint of pure water weighs a pound and a quarter"  and there are two pints, quarts floz. etc
Mixing 2-stroke for my racing bike using American oil was pretty interesting, because the bottle gave dilutions in ounces per gallon, and my petrol came in Gallons Imperial.  50/1 isn't difficult in metric.
 
Agreed, I'm sure there would be limber holes (or Nordic equivalent) to allow the water to reach a place where bailing was possible/easy.  I have thought a bit about that, and looked at the bailers found at Oseberg.  They are quite small, perhaps half a pint🤣 but not shaped particularly to access water in triangular spaces, or a lot of it.
I assume that the crew would raise a section of boards around midships to aft on the lee side and propel the bilge water over the lee rail.
Also the replica sailors would face similar issues, cos the replicas would ship water and leak rather like the originals, so Somebody knows and has lost knuckles in the process of learning.
 
 

Steven, I think this is as far as I can push it, hope it helps:
 
 

Hi guys!
 
On with the log of day 14 - 17.
 
The planking of the hull was made the same way as on the stern: a bit too long, but cut to size, when the glue had set. Below the water line, I adjusted the front end of the plank according to the shape of the hull.

 
After all planking was finished, I gave it a good sanding. This deleted all the steps between the planks and the ship looked less like a amateurishly clinker-planked boat. I had also put planks on the inside of the cabin's windows. This area was quite fragile up until this point, but more rigid afterwards.

 
Before returning to the cabin, I planked all the decks. The rearmost was redone later. It looked a bit odd with that triangular plank in the middle as I had work from the edges inwards.

 
The front side of the cabin was planked horizontally. The doors were made with the round ends from coffee-sticks and are flanked by "columns". They are also made by coffee-sticks, that I cut in half and carved and sanded some curvature into. On the original Golden Yacht, these were carved wooden statues of women, but you can sadly only do so much in 1/100th scale. Still, I am pleased with the result. The columns were again made longer than necessary and cut down to length, after the glue had set. The hole in front of the doors is for the rudder pole, which I installed later.

 
The rear view of the cabin was a bit trickier as it was even more decorated (or at least should be). I include you the picture of the plan for comparison. I cut the picture of the layout from the plans and glued it to my 0,5mm heavy paper. I then cut out the windows, the heraldic shield and the ornaments for the roof. The latter ones were glued at their bottom to a small piece of wood (less then 1x1mm in diameter), which would function like a foot or base, so that the ornaments can be glued on upright. The shield was glued on right away, as it didn't need further touchup. But the windows did. I pushed my scalpell along the windows lines in, to extract the would-be glassy part of the windows. then I glued a normal piece of paper to it. Then the windows were glued to the cabin.

 
The only things left to finish the cabin, were the side galleries, the roof and flagpole. After that, the hull would be ready for priming and the first layer of colour. But that's a story for another day.
 

Thanks everybody for all the likes and comments.
 
Christos, glad you like the background. There was a discussion earlier in the build regarding the oarblade width - I was also worried they were too narrow, but (i) they had to fit through the oarports which are copied from one of the Yenikapi galleys, (ii) they were based on Byzantine illustrations (though if I had to do it again I'd make the blades taper more slowly, so the blade would come higher up the shaft as shown here)
 

 
and (iii) I was assured that this is a representative width for an oarblade propelling a decent sized vessel - I've  had a quick look for it in the (45 pages of) my build log but can't find it at the moment.
 
Banyan, that's a tempting thought, but I think I'd be happy just to blow the picture up bigger so it forms a background. There's another one that's even nicer (got it off Pinterest) which I'd like to use even more than the one above.

 
But each of them contains a picture of a dromon that I don't believe is correct. I could probably photoshop it out, though, or just put the model in front so it can't be seen.
 

Some more oarsmen, and a nice background picture. It's a reconstruction of the Byzantine harbour of Theodosius (where the Yenikapi ships were found). It would be good to make one of those background pictures big enough to look like it's a real background, but I'll have to wait till lockdown is over so I can get to a shop that does it.
 
 
 
My wife tells me I have to stop making these figures, otherwise I'll go blind. I've decided I'll only do it till I need glasses.
 

 
Oh.

Well, it's a bit of both. But books are the best way of gaining the theoretical information (depending on the book - some are pretty useless - but there's a whole section of the MSW forum that deals with masting, rigging and sails, and I just used the search function for "books on rigging" and found this which would be appropriate to ships of Thermopylae's period 
 
and there's probably others among the search results if you care to look further.
 
Then building the models gives you the practical experience and you get to see the inter-relationships of all the ropes, and how it's all a balance of forces - some pull this way, others balance them by pulling the opposite way - for example, the stays keep keep the masts from falling backwards, the backstays keep them from falling forwards and the shrouds stop them falling sideways (and forwards).
 
If you're doing a clipper, the above book is probably ideal. Other books are more appropriate to other periods. If you have further questions, it's probably best to ask them in the "masting rigging and sails"section (but first do a search - your question may already have been answered); then you don't have to worry about hijacking someone else's thread (which is not recommended - but heck, you have to find out somehow).

Hi Devildog.Looks like you're making good progress, and I agree with the assessments of the others. One point is that with that very tight curve at the stern you might find planking there a bit of a challenge. Steaming should help a lot, but you might find you have to try it several times before you get it exactly right.
 
If that's the case, then do it over and over again, rather than settle for "almost right". You'll be glad down the track, because otherwise it will sneer at you every time you look at it, and remind you that with a bit more patience you could have got it right - don't ask me how I know. And this applies to every aspect of the model.Patience and persistence are what it's all about (it's not a race).

I am very impressed by your ability to think "outside the box" regarding materials and techniques. I've used toothpicks occasionally, but you've incorporated so many everyday things into your build, giving them a whole new life, instead of relying on the stuff that everybody else uses.
 
I applaud your initiative and ingenuity, and I'm looking forward to seeing your further progress..

And it's a particularly good reproduction of the "Chinoiserie" style of lion fiurehead that was so popular at the time, right down to the expression on its face.

Amazing work, Siggi! 

Well, it's a bit of both. But books are the best way of gaining the theoretical information (depending on the book - some are pretty useless - but there's a whole section of the MSW forum that deals with masting, rigging and sails, and I just used the search function for "books on rigging" and found this which would be appropriate to ships of Thermopylae's period 
 
and there's probably others among the search results if you care to look further.
 
Then building the models gives you the practical experience and you get to see the inter-relationships of all the ropes, and how it's all a balance of forces - some pull this way, others balance them by pulling the opposite way - for example, the stays keep keep the masts from falling backwards, the backstays keep them from falling forwards and the shrouds stop them falling sideways (and forwards).
 
If you're doing a clipper, the above book is probably ideal. Other books are more appropriate to other periods. If you have further questions, it's probably best to ask them in the "masting rigging and sails"section (but first do a search - your question may already have been answered); then you don't have to worry about hijacking someone else's thread (which is not recommended - but heck, you have to find out somehow).

I've bookmarked this clamping technique. Simple, elegant and brilliant!

Very true. I have to force myself to stay focussed on my current build - otherwise I'd be starting all kinds of new ones. I have a list a mile long of models I'd like to make, and it takes a considerable mental effort to keep on the same one and get it finished, particularly when I'm doing something repetitve and boring, but necessary to finish the model.
 
Even now I've got two under way rather than one, but I've at least put one on hold till the other is finished.

Ok, but my coffee's getting cold . . .