David Lester

A little more progress on Speedy -
 
I have finished the first layer of planking. This is not a difficult hull to plank and the whole process went smoothly. I chose not to line off the hull, creating belts. The instructions didn't indicate that this was necessary and I decided since it is a small hull, I shouldn't have any problems if I didn't do it. So I just eyeballed the amount of tapering for each plank at the bow, taking off just about half or slightly less and planning to address any issues once I got to the bottom. I worked straight down, but installed the garboard before added the final two planks above it. There really were no problems to speak of, just a matter of fitting the last plank against the garboard.
 
I used my new little Lee Valley plane to taper the planks and I found it to be very effective and pleasant to use. (which I'm relieved to discover, since it was about the same price as a used Hyundai!)  I can never seem to hold a ruler firmly in place when using a knife. This way, you just hold the plank on its edge and run the plane along it. It works really well and you have quite a bit of control. I didn't ruined a single plank this time, which is not typically the case for me with a knife and ruler.
 

 
 
 
Having really only built Model Shipways kits before, I am used to drawing the bearding line and reducing the centre keel before adding the planking. This kit doesn't include that step, but rather asks you to simply apply the planking first and then sand the stern area to a very thin width afterwards. I wasn't sure how easy a task this would be to do, but it proved to be easier than I anticipated and I think I have an acceptable result. I know it looks rough in the picture, but that's only because of the the contrast in colours. It's actually very smooth where the planks feather out.
 

 
I think this is the first hull I've planked where I don't need a gallon of filler (and I'm talking imperial gallons!) I will use some though, just to even out a couple of spots, but I think it will need only a minimal amount. And that's it for now.
 
Thanks again for comments, likes etc.
David

Bob - I found that holding the plank on its edge worked just fine for the first layer of planking (1.5mm) but wasn't sure it would work as well for thinner material. I haven't started the second layer yet, but I experimented with some 1mm planking and it is in fact too wobbly. So, I've built a jig that solves the problem. I don't have a picture of it, but I'll get one tomorrow and post it. I just glued four strips onto a scrap piece of 1x2. Two of the strips are 1/8" x 1/4" and they're glued wide side down and 1mm apart. The other two are 1/16" x 1/4" and they're glued down the same way, 1mm apart. They hold the planking strip perfectly. I start with the 1/8"  and then move to the 1/16" as I remove more material.
 
Kev - your system sounds like it would work well. If you're thinking of the Speedy as your next kit, I would recommend it highly. I'm not too far along yet, but so far, it is an absolute pleasure to work on.
 David

A little more progress on Speedy -
 
I have finished the first layer of planking. This is not a difficult hull to plank and the whole process went smoothly. I chose not to line off the hull, creating belts. The instructions didn't indicate that this was necessary and I decided since it is a small hull, I shouldn't have any problems if I didn't do it. So I just eyeballed the amount of tapering for each plank at the bow, taking off just about half or slightly less and planning to address any issues once I got to the bottom. I worked straight down, but installed the garboard before added the final two planks above it. There really were no problems to speak of, just a matter of fitting the last plank against the garboard.
 
I used my new little Lee Valley plane to taper the planks and I found it to be very effective and pleasant to use. (which I'm relieved to discover, since it was about the same price as a used Hyundai!)  I can never seem to hold a ruler firmly in place when using a knife. This way, you just hold the plank on its edge and run the plane along it. It works really well and you have quite a bit of control. I didn't ruined a single plank this time, which is not typically the case for me with a knife and ruler.
 

 
 
 
Having really only built Model Shipways kits before, I am used to drawing the bearding line and reducing the centre keel before adding the planking. This kit doesn't include that step, but rather asks you to simply apply the planking first and then sand the stern area to a very thin width afterwards. I wasn't sure how easy a task this would be to do, but it proved to be easier than I anticipated and I think I have an acceptable result. I know it looks rough in the picture, but that's only because of the the contrast in colours. It's actually very smooth where the planks feather out.
 

 
I think this is the first hull I've planked where I don't need a gallon of filler (and I'm talking imperial gallons!) I will use some though, just to even out a couple of spots, but I think it will need only a minimal amount. And that's it for now.
 
Thanks again for comments, likes etc.
David

A little more progress on Speedy -
 
I have finished the first layer of planking. This is not a difficult hull to plank and the whole process went smoothly. I chose not to line off the hull, creating belts. The instructions didn't indicate that this was necessary and I decided since it is a small hull, I shouldn't have any problems if I didn't do it. So I just eyeballed the amount of tapering for each plank at the bow, taking off just about half or slightly less and planning to address any issues once I got to the bottom. I worked straight down, but installed the garboard before added the final two planks above it. There really were no problems to speak of, just a matter of fitting the last plank against the garboard.
 
I used my new little Lee Valley plane to taper the planks and I found it to be very effective and pleasant to use. (which I'm relieved to discover, since it was about the same price as a used Hyundai!)  I can never seem to hold a ruler firmly in place when using a knife. This way, you just hold the plank on its edge and run the plane along it. It works really well and you have quite a bit of control. I didn't ruined a single plank this time, which is not typically the case for me with a knife and ruler.
 

 
 
 
Having really only built Model Shipways kits before, I am used to drawing the bearding line and reducing the centre keel before adding the planking. This kit doesn't include that step, but rather asks you to simply apply the planking first and then sand the stern area to a very thin width afterwards. I wasn't sure how easy a task this would be to do, but it proved to be easier than I anticipated and I think I have an acceptable result. I know it looks rough in the picture, but that's only because of the the contrast in colours. It's actually very smooth where the planks feather out.
 

 
I think this is the first hull I've planked where I don't need a gallon of filler (and I'm talking imperial gallons!) I will use some though, just to even out a couple of spots, but I think it will need only a minimal amount. And that's it for now.
 
Thanks again for comments, likes etc.
David

I am determined to improve my planking skills with this build, so have been trying a couple of experiments with the first layer. 
 
I tried my hand at two of Chuck's suggestions - the first was spiling and the second edge bending with an iron. The spiling works well in that it certainly solves the problem of the planks tending to "step" at the bow. However, it presents its own set of challenges and it needs some wider stock to work with. I tried one spiled plank on the port side, but no need for a picture of it - it's a bit rough and once you see it, you won't be able to "un-see" it. I don't want to ruin anyone's day.
 
However, the iron method works really well and is pretty much foolproof. I bought a cheap iron ($21.99) and set up an ironing station.
 

 
The hold-down is important, because without it, it's still possible for the plank to "buckle." With the hold-down, it works very smoothly.
 

 
And here is the plank in position -

 
I am now a convert to this method. I'm expecting it to be especially helpful for the second layer. In the past I have sometimes found the second layer more difficult and frustrating because if the plank doesn't lay perfectly flat, the glue doesn't hold and sanding results in gaps. I think this is going to improve things for me considerably.
 
Thanks for checking in.
David
 

I've made a little more progress on the Speedy. It is impossible to overstate how perfectly the pieces fit together and what a pleasure they are to work with.
I added the upper sub-deck which popped into place beautifully. Fairing the hull seemed a relatively easy chore. The mdf is a lot nicer to work with than plywood and with the lower deck and upper sub-deck in place, which essentially serve as guides, it was hard to go too far wrong. I did get a little over zealous on the the second to last bullkhead when I pre-sanded it before its installation. I had to fix it with a thin strip.

 

 
The gunport strips were causing me a lot of anxiety, because I knew that they can be a bit tricky and I've never built a model that uses them before. However, the job wasn't too bad and again, I think it is because they are so perfectly designed and cut to fit.
 
Like almost everyone else, I had a small bit of wrinkling with the bow sections,  but nothing that can't be easily fixed with some sanding.

 

 
The two sides meet up really well with the the two stern pieces. I needed a very small amount of sanding on the port side and just a tad more sanding on the starboard, side.

 
Gunport strips installed -

 
First strip of planking added -
You can see the two spots where there was a little wrinkling and I've done some "experimental" sanding. It isn't fully sanded at this point, of course, but I just wanted to discover if it could be easily sanded out and I believe it can be.

 
I have a new tool - a miniature block plane from Lee Valley.

 
It's hard to tell from the picture, but this thing is small; just 2 1/2" long and 3/4" wide. I intend to use it to taper planks and to bevel their inner edges. I used it on the one plank I've installed so far and it worked very nicely; especially for beveling the edge.
 
That's my update for now. Thanks for looking in, comments, and "likes."
David
 
 
 
 
 

A little more progress on Speedy -
 
I have finished the first layer of planking. This is not a difficult hull to plank and the whole process went smoothly. I chose not to line off the hull, creating belts. The instructions didn't indicate that this was necessary and I decided since it is a small hull, I shouldn't have any problems if I didn't do it. So I just eyeballed the amount of tapering for each plank at the bow, taking off just about half or slightly less and planning to address any issues once I got to the bottom. I worked straight down, but installed the garboard before added the final two planks above it. There really were no problems to speak of, just a matter of fitting the last plank against the garboard.
 
I used my new little Lee Valley plane to taper the planks and I found it to be very effective and pleasant to use. (which I'm relieved to discover, since it was about the same price as a used Hyundai!)  I can never seem to hold a ruler firmly in place when using a knife. This way, you just hold the plank on its edge and run the plane along it. It works really well and you have quite a bit of control. I didn't ruined a single plank this time, which is not typically the case for me with a knife and ruler.
 

 
 
 
Having really only built Model Shipways kits before, I am used to drawing the bearding line and reducing the centre keel before adding the planking. This kit doesn't include that step, but rather asks you to simply apply the planking first and then sand the stern area to a very thin width afterwards. I wasn't sure how easy a task this would be to do, but it proved to be easier than I anticipated and I think I have an acceptable result. I know it looks rough in the picture, but that's only because of the the contrast in colours. It's actually very smooth where the planks feather out.
 

 
I think this is the first hull I've planked where I don't need a gallon of filler (and I'm talking imperial gallons!) I will use some though, just to even out a couple of spots, but I think it will need only a minimal amount. And that's it for now.
 
Thanks again for comments, likes etc.
David

Building is slowly progressing.   The hull is essentially finished with just some touchups to do.   Especially on the stern decorations.  (just ordered some very fine brushes to accomplish this).       The ship's boats are the last stage for me as I am not going to mast/rig this model.     Those boats being a single plank affair are a real challenge for me as you can see by the pictures.   I have always used the second planking to cover up my many defects.   Not so with these.    I have the pinnace planking done now have to work on the interior.    Also will need to do lots of cosmetic touching up to the hull.    I had never really done any fine single planking before so I learned a lot which will be applied to the yawl and launch which you can see are under construction.
 
With these boats I have only been able to do a few planks at a time.    The structures are pretty fragile at the stern so I have not been to find a way to use clamps.   That necessitated my holding the planks in position until the glue set up.    Thin CA is hard to use as it soaks into the MDF pretty quickly,    A medium CA is a bit better but does take a while to hold.    What I found that works best for me is kind of a combination of the yellow glue I use plus some thin CA.     I apply the yellow glue to the plank and then the CA to the rib and quickly place the plank.   I have found this method give a pretty good hold of the plank in about a minute. 

I decided to build the two hand pumps today. The process described below applies to both hand pump assemblies.
 
I cut a 89mm length of 4mm dowel and checked it would pass through the locating holes on the two decks. Two small holes were then drilled in the dowel for the hand pump handle, one in the top of the dowel and one on the side. I found it necessary to run a micro drill through the locating holes on the hand pump handle and side brackets so the brass pins would pass through. A touch of ca gel was applied to one side of the hand pump handle and the first side bracket was positioned and press in place, using the brass pins to ensure it was correctly aligned. A touch of ca gel was then applied to the other side of the hand pump handle and the other side bracket could be added. A small amount of ca gel was added to the shaft of the two brass pins and they were then fully inserted. The excess brass pin material was removed using my straight edge (cuticle)  side cutters.
 
The hand pump assembly was then painted black along with the hand pump end cap. A small amount of ca gel was added to the top of the dowel and the hand pump end cap was then attached. A small amount of ga gel was applied to the edge of the hand pump assembly (the edge which makes contact with the dowel) and it was then fitted in place.
 
Photo of the two completed hand pumps dry fitted to the hull assembly

 
I removed the various eyebolts and rings for the gun ports and deck. The parts were thoroughly cleaned in acetone and soapy water before being blackened. This photo shows the iron work ready to be cleaned.

 
The two Forward Gun Deck Cabin Bulkhead parts were glued together using titebond and clamped. The process was repeated for the two Forward Gun Deck Screen Bulkhead and the two Aft Gun Deck Cabin bulkheads. The side edges of the Forward and Aft Gun Deck Cabin Bulkheads both required a little bit of trimming before they would fit.
 
The photo below shows the bulkheads loosely dry fitted. They need to be removed so the hinges, door knobs, window panes and frames can be added. I also need to add the check the fit with the deck beams. The window frames have been been cleaned and had primer added. I have not yet decided on the final colour but may opt for white as per the other window frames.

 
I also started to fit the eyebolts and rings

 
Hopefully I can complete the work on the cabin bulkheads and ironwork over the next day or two. Given I have already prebuilt the majority of the deck items I think I can make some good progress over the next few days which is good news as I have just received notification that the V2 Sphinx kit is expected to be delivered on Tuesday by UPS.

A little more progress on Speedy -
 
I have finished the first layer of planking. This is not a difficult hull to plank and the whole process went smoothly. I chose not to line off the hull, creating belts. The instructions didn't indicate that this was necessary and I decided since it is a small hull, I shouldn't have any problems if I didn't do it. So I just eyeballed the amount of tapering for each plank at the bow, taking off just about half or slightly less and planning to address any issues once I got to the bottom. I worked straight down, but installed the garboard before added the final two planks above it. There really were no problems to speak of, just a matter of fitting the last plank against the garboard.
 
I used my new little Lee Valley plane to taper the planks and I found it to be very effective and pleasant to use. (which I'm relieved to discover, since it was about the same price as a used Hyundai!)  I can never seem to hold a ruler firmly in place when using a knife. This way, you just hold the plank on its edge and run the plane along it. It works really well and you have quite a bit of control. I didn't ruined a single plank this time, which is not typically the case for me with a knife and ruler.
 

 
 
 
Having really only built Model Shipways kits before, I am used to drawing the bearding line and reducing the centre keel before adding the planking. This kit doesn't include that step, but rather asks you to simply apply the planking first and then sand the stern area to a very thin width afterwards. I wasn't sure how easy a task this would be to do, but it proved to be easier than I anticipated and I think I have an acceptable result. I know it looks rough in the picture, but that's only because of the the contrast in colours. It's actually very smooth where the planks feather out.
 

 
I think this is the first hull I've planked where I don't need a gallon of filler (and I'm talking imperial gallons!) I will use some though, just to even out a couple of spots, but I think it will need only a minimal amount. And that's it for now.
 
Thanks again for comments, likes etc.
David

A little more progress on Speedy -
 
I have finished the first layer of planking. This is not a difficult hull to plank and the whole process went smoothly. I chose not to line off the hull, creating belts. The instructions didn't indicate that this was necessary and I decided since it is a small hull, I shouldn't have any problems if I didn't do it. So I just eyeballed the amount of tapering for each plank at the bow, taking off just about half or slightly less and planning to address any issues once I got to the bottom. I worked straight down, but installed the garboard before added the final two planks above it. There really were no problems to speak of, just a matter of fitting the last plank against the garboard.
 
I used my new little Lee Valley plane to taper the planks and I found it to be very effective and pleasant to use. (which I'm relieved to discover, since it was about the same price as a used Hyundai!)  I can never seem to hold a ruler firmly in place when using a knife. This way, you just hold the plank on its edge and run the plane along it. It works really well and you have quite a bit of control. I didn't ruined a single plank this time, which is not typically the case for me with a knife and ruler.
 

 
 
 
Having really only built Model Shipways kits before, I am used to drawing the bearding line and reducing the centre keel before adding the planking. This kit doesn't include that step, but rather asks you to simply apply the planking first and then sand the stern area to a very thin width afterwards. I wasn't sure how easy a task this would be to do, but it proved to be easier than I anticipated and I think I have an acceptable result. I know it looks rough in the picture, but that's only because of the the contrast in colours. It's actually very smooth where the planks feather out.
 

 
I think this is the first hull I've planked where I don't need a gallon of filler (and I'm talking imperial gallons!) I will use some though, just to even out a couple of spots, but I think it will need only a minimal amount. And that's it for now.
 
Thanks again for comments, likes etc.
David

I am determined to improve my planking skills with this build, so have been trying a couple of experiments with the first layer. 
 
I tried my hand at two of Chuck's suggestions - the first was spiling and the second edge bending with an iron. The spiling works well in that it certainly solves the problem of the planks tending to "step" at the bow. However, it presents its own set of challenges and it needs some wider stock to work with. I tried one spiled plank on the port side, but no need for a picture of it - it's a bit rough and once you see it, you won't be able to "un-see" it. I don't want to ruin anyone's day.
 
However, the iron method works really well and is pretty much foolproof. I bought a cheap iron ($21.99) and set up an ironing station.
 

 
The hold-down is important, because without it, it's still possible for the plank to "buckle." With the hold-down, it works very smoothly.
 

 
And here is the plank in position -

 
I am now a convert to this method. I'm expecting it to be especially helpful for the second layer. In the past I have sometimes found the second layer more difficult and frustrating because if the plank doesn't lay perfectly flat, the glue doesn't hold and sanding results in gaps. I think this is going to improve things for me considerably.
 
Thanks for checking in.
David
 

Nice, tidy job. 
 
I hate filler, so I know what you mean. 

Please remember this is a prototype build and I will be building another Sphinx kit to a much higher standard🤞
 
Moving on from the "laserchargate" debacle I have now completed adding the deadeye & chainplate assembly to the left-hand side (port). Yes the knees still have laser char and yes I have not painted the brass pins black. IT DOES NOT MATTER to me as this model is a prototype build.
 
Before fitting the deadeyes to the strops I did run a micro drill through the deadeyes to slightly enlarge the holes to aid the rigging process. Next the strops were opened using my round nose pliers and once the deadeye was aligned in the strop (with two holes at the top) they were tighten around the deadeye. As each strop and deadeye assembly was completed I inserted into a channel slot, in accordance with the plan sheet. Once all the strops/ deadeye were in the channels the upper and middle chainplate links were added.
 

 

 

 

 
Using a suitably sized micro drill bit holes were drilled for the brass pins for the middle chainplate links.
 
!!!!!Laser Char Alert!!!!!!

 
The chainplate preventer links for 5mm deadeyes /strop assembly were added at this stage as the brass pins were inserted into the hull to secure the links in place. I chose not to use any glue but I will use CA gel on the brass pins when I repeat this process on the next build to keep the brass pins in place. Please note I did shorten the brass pins by cutting the ends off before they were inserted.
 
Yes I know the right hand middle link in the photo below is the wrong way round (Or it is the right way round and the other three are the wrong way round).

 

 
All done

 
I can now start work on adding the various parts to the inner hull, which is something I am looking forward to, although the first task of adding the various eyebolts and rings to the cabin floor and bulwarks will be a tad tedious.

A little more progress on Speedy -
 
I have finished the first layer of planking. This is not a difficult hull to plank and the whole process went smoothly. I chose not to line off the hull, creating belts. The instructions didn't indicate that this was necessary and I decided since it is a small hull, I shouldn't have any problems if I didn't do it. So I just eyeballed the amount of tapering for each plank at the bow, taking off just about half or slightly less and planning to address any issues once I got to the bottom. I worked straight down, but installed the garboard before added the final two planks above it. There really were no problems to speak of, just a matter of fitting the last plank against the garboard.
 
I used my new little Lee Valley plane to taper the planks and I found it to be very effective and pleasant to use. (which I'm relieved to discover, since it was about the same price as a used Hyundai!)  I can never seem to hold a ruler firmly in place when using a knife. This way, you just hold the plank on its edge and run the plane along it. It works really well and you have quite a bit of control. I didn't ruined a single plank this time, which is not typically the case for me with a knife and ruler.
 

 
 
 
Having really only built Model Shipways kits before, I am used to drawing the bearding line and reducing the centre keel before adding the planking. This kit doesn't include that step, but rather asks you to simply apply the planking first and then sand the stern area to a very thin width afterwards. I wasn't sure how easy a task this would be to do, but it proved to be easier than I anticipated and I think I have an acceptable result. I know it looks rough in the picture, but that's only because of the the contrast in colours. It's actually very smooth where the planks feather out.
 

 
I think this is the first hull I've planked where I don't need a gallon of filler (and I'm talking imperial gallons!) I will use some though, just to even out a couple of spots, but I think it will need only a minimal amount. And that's it for now.
 
Thanks again for comments, likes etc.
David

Post Thirty
 
Looking at the guns
At this point I make up a gun because it will prove useful in checking the level of the ports.
Sphinx was fitted with Armstrong pattern Nine pounder guns which had a length excluding the cascobal of 7’ 6”.
 
The barrel
The kit has resin guns which are spot on for scale, and look very realistic, incorporating  both Royal cypher and vents.
They are so impressive that for the first time in my model building career I will forsake  the blackened brass versions I usually favour.
The muzzle face is nicely finished, the bore is scaled, and the reinforcing rings cleanly moulded. These barrels need no cleaning up such as the  removal of moulding lines etc.
When I think back to the appalling Amati guns supplied with their Pegasus kit, this is light years ahead.
 
Well done Chris.
 
The Carriages
The good
These are nicely finished in Pearwood.
 
The trucks are engraved with both bolt holes and section joints, and the Brackets have the engraved planking line which represents the two parts that usually made up the Brackets.
In reality these were secured with iron straps on the inside of the carriage.
 
I am pleased to see that the trucks have round holes rather than the square versions supplied with the Alert kit.
 
Chris has innovatively designed the capsquares as an integral part of the  brackets. This has the advantage of securing the barrels, always a fiddly job when capsquares are separately added. This also makes it easier to add the Capsquare eye and joint bolts.
My initial slight reservation about whether the capsquares looked too chunky was dispelled once I had assembled the gun.
 
The not so good
I am still not a fan of the provided etched eyebolts for the brackets. They look clunky to my eye, and the Breeching bolt lacks the ring thro’ which the breeching rope passes.
As with my previous builds I will replace these with more convincing Ring bolts and tackle loops.

03531(2) Gun Carriage as fitted to Cutter Alert model.
 
I find that Amati fine eyepins and rings are perfect for the Breeching rings.
Even with these deficiencies which are easily addressed the guns overall are very nice, similar to to the ordnance supplied by Chuck with his Syren models.
 
Assembly
First job, gently remove the char from visible edges, I use a home made sanding stick for this purpose.

0873
Secondly, gently round the  truck axles to fit  thro’ the trucks. This takes very little, a slight rounding on the corners is sufficient.
To assemble the guns the brackets require pre-painting because once the barrels are in place access to the inner areas is limited.

0915
The Trucks are fitted on a wooden toothpick to sand off the char around the rims.
With the char left in place it looks like the iron rims fitted to land based guns, a real no,no, onboard a ship.
With the trucks fitted to the axles I am pleased to see there is sufficient length to drill micro holes to take the keys.
 
Fettlin’ the barrels.
This is required before they are fitted to avoid any marring of the carriage paintwork.
I am looking at using weathering powder to to create an ‘iron’ finish, using Chuck’s approach.
Wash the barrel.
Spray with fixative, I use Winsor & Newton professional.
Apply weathering powder, and buff off with a soft brush.

0891
My pop up spray booth.

0887(2)
The basic resin gun.
 
Under macro I note a fault with the button, unfortunately on the top side. I checked the rest of the guns and a similar deformation was present in a further five of them.
Not a great problem to put right, but it is an additional job to do.

0901(2)
Fixative applied.

0903(2)
Weathering powder applied, I used Revell Rust Red.

0907(3)
Finished gun with buffed surface.
 
Before fitting the barrel between the Brackets I paint the capsquares. For this I use Vallejo  Black Grey which gives a good scale iron effect.
This area is too small to apply weathering powders without the risk of marring the paintwork.

0927(2)

0931(2)

0940(2)
Fairly satisfied with the result.
 
Final check, how does it sit on the deck.

0944

0947

0951

0955
This gun remains unfinished; I’ll re-visit the ordnance later, but for the present it’s back to port lining.
 
B.E.
26/10/21
 
 

Now it's on to the ship's boats with lots of uncertainty on my part.  This will be the first time I have attempted building such small boats.  Given the quality of the instructions and materials I am fairly optimistic that they will turn out fine.  
All that's left to do is string the photo etched pieces that were installed today. 
Up to step 690 in the instruction book and other than the boats there doesn't appear to be much more to do besides lots of touchups and refining of small details.   
I am sorely tempted to rig this model but there just isn't room in the house. 
So Chris, when is the next big model coming out???   I'll be one of the first in line to get it.

The Guns
 
Time to assemble the cannon. Flirt has teeny tiny 4 pounders, the smallest I’ve ever seen. Admiral Cochrane noted he could carry the full broadside of cannon balls for his sister ship Speedy in his pockets, of that I have no doubt.
 

 
As we know assembling 14 of anything is a repetitive process calling for a production line of shorts. I started with one to determine what process I wanted to use to get these done. First up is building a jig. Flirt’s carriages are typical for this scale consisting of six components. Always looking for an opportunity for using my mill, I carved out a block that would allow the four main pieces to be glued together consistently. Just grooves for the axels and perpendicular deeper grooves for the carriage sides, nothing fancy.
 

 
Sooo much sanding of small small parts as I moved past the first prototype (shown in the previous post) into production. I use the plastic cups to keep all the parts separated (piled up here for the photo) and pull them out as I go.
 

 
I kept it simple for this model rounding the char off the wheels by inserting them onto my round file and just spinning them in my hand against a 320 and 400 grit sanding blocks. The challenge is to sand only the char and not reduce the wheel in size while I’m doing it. I’d automate this more for larger wheels and more cannon but this worked fine for the 56 wheels needed. I also used the round file to adjust as necessary for axel fit. For this model I’m leaving the wheels natural.
 

 
Off to the paint shed. I shared in an earlier post how I’ve gone to the dark side and purchased an air brush. I do like how it worked for the gun carriages, keeping the paint thin enough to show the laser etched sides (even at this tiny size, @Chris provides nice details with his laser talents). Plus it took only minutes to paint all 14, I’m an airbrush convert, for some things, I still prefer the brush for most work. It takes as long to clean the thing as it does to do the paint work.
 
As shown in the photo I also painted the resin cannon with black primer. These cannon did require some removal of sprue, I felt like I was a kid again building plastic airplane models, but it really wasn't a lot. They do look so much better than the old metal ones, a lot easier to provide detail when casting them this way, even the crest is there. The black primer, with its matte finish was all I needed before applying Doc O’Brien’s Weathering Powder (Rusty Brown) to the barrels and buffing it down with a series of soft brushes I have for only this purpose. They have to be handled carefully after that but are easily buffed back up if necessary, no sealant (like Dullcoat) is needed in this case, though of course it wouldn’t hurt if so inclined.
 

 
A new production line is set up for rigging the carriages, barrels, eyebolts, and trucks. I feel bad now for encouraging @Derek to fully rig his cannon on his Speedy, no way I’m doing that on these little guys for Flirt. I am including breeching lines though. That required drilling holes and adding the required eyebolts and rings to the carriages. So out came the Quad Hands and the rigging box.
 
I used .018 light brown Syren line and made a little jig for pre-rigging them, identical to the one I used for Cheerful…just smaller. I determined two inches to be the length of completed breeching rope I wanted.
 

 
I’ve seen some posts recently about difficulty in tying knots, there is nothing simpler than this standard seizing method, basically the same way a hook is tied to a fishing line. I’ve tied hundreds of these, the Quad Hands makes it easy.
 

 
Normally I toss trunnions provided with a kit, if they are at all, and make my own. However the ones Chris provides in the PE are perfect, not only nice details but more importantly thin enough to fit properly on the carriage without looking out of scale. With a little assist from a drill bit to pre-bend after being primed and then painted Ironworks Black, they laid nicely onto the carriage after the barrel was glued in. They get the weathering powder brush too after being installed.
 

 
Here’s a completed gun ready to mount, a couple of points:
 
While I appreciate Chris for including eyebolts as part of the kit PE, They just looked to heavy for my tastes so I opted for the standard Amati commercial eyebolts, blacked from their copper start, on the gun. I did use the kit provided ones on the bulwarks. There weren’t enough for the breeching ropes anyway, plus the larger commercial rings are a better look here in my opinion.
 
I softened the edge of the axels with a file, I tried rounding one with sandpaper and it broke off, there just isn’t a lot of wood there. I suppose I could have rounded them even more with the file, but frankly they are so small they aren’t noticeable at a normal viewing distance. It just wasn’t worth the breakage risk or the time. More power to all of you who did or will. In my imagination the part within the truck is rounded from use.
 
I always recommend rigging the breeching rope in advance of mounting the gun(or any guns on any model) as shown here. So much easier than trying to fit all of it on board the deck. If I were installing gun tackle, and I have no intention to do that on this model, I’d make them up off the ship but fit them once the gun is placed - that involves two hooks into two rings once they are made up, a simpler task.
 

 
These guns are really small - the carriage will sit on my thumbnail. The sailors on these ships must of felt they’d be just as well off throwing the cannon balls at attacking ships.
 

 
With that the starboard battery is mounted, I need a break before moving on to the port side. I’m going to work on the deck furniture next for a change of pace.
 

 
A closer look at the mounted battery. I have also installed the pin rails and all bulkhead cleats. I’m going to use these 8mm belaying pins acquired from Crafty Sailor instead of the PE ones provided with the kit, just sitting in this one rail at the moment for a test look. While I left the trucks natural and sanded off the bulk of the char I elected to leave a bit so they looked like they’d rolled about the deck (or maybe it was due to laziness, who knows). I’m sure these near macro shots will expose lots of flaws, still I think it all came out ok.  Did I mention they are tiny.
 
Thanks for stopping by with your likes and comments. Until next time…

I am determined to improve my planking skills with this build, so have been trying a couple of experiments with the first layer. 
 
I tried my hand at two of Chuck's suggestions - the first was spiling and the second edge bending with an iron. The spiling works well in that it certainly solves the problem of the planks tending to "step" at the bow. However, it presents its own set of challenges and it needs some wider stock to work with. I tried one spiled plank on the port side, but no need for a picture of it - it's a bit rough and once you see it, you won't be able to "un-see" it. I don't want to ruin anyone's day.
 
However, the iron method works really well and is pretty much foolproof. I bought a cheap iron ($21.99) and set up an ironing station.
 

 
The hold-down is important, because without it, it's still possible for the plank to "buckle." With the hold-down, it works very smoothly.
 

 
And here is the plank in position -

 
I am now a convert to this method. I'm expecting it to be especially helpful for the second layer. In the past I have sometimes found the second layer more difficult and frustrating because if the plank doesn't lay perfectly flat, the glue doesn't hold and sanding results in gaps. I think this is going to improve things for me considerably.
 
Thanks for checking in.
David
 

I am determined to improve my planking skills with this build, so have been trying a couple of experiments with the first layer. 
 
I tried my hand at two of Chuck's suggestions - the first was spiling and the second edge bending with an iron. The spiling works well in that it certainly solves the problem of the planks tending to "step" at the bow. However, it presents its own set of challenges and it needs some wider stock to work with. I tried one spiled plank on the port side, but no need for a picture of it - it's a bit rough and once you see it, you won't be able to "un-see" it. I don't want to ruin anyone's day.
 
However, the iron method works really well and is pretty much foolproof. I bought a cheap iron ($21.99) and set up an ironing station.
 

 
The hold-down is important, because without it, it's still possible for the plank to "buckle." With the hold-down, it works very smoothly.
 

 
And here is the plank in position -

 
I am now a convert to this method. I'm expecting it to be especially helpful for the second layer. In the past I have sometimes found the second layer more difficult and frustrating because if the plank doesn't lay perfectly flat, the glue doesn't hold and sanding results in gaps. I think this is going to improve things for me considerably.
 
Thanks for checking in.
David
 

I am determined to improve my planking skills with this build, so have been trying a couple of experiments with the first layer. 
 
I tried my hand at two of Chuck's suggestions - the first was spiling and the second edge bending with an iron. The spiling works well in that it certainly solves the problem of the planks tending to "step" at the bow. However, it presents its own set of challenges and it needs some wider stock to work with. I tried one spiled plank on the port side, but no need for a picture of it - it's a bit rough and once you see it, you won't be able to "un-see" it. I don't want to ruin anyone's day.
 
However, the iron method works really well and is pretty much foolproof. I bought a cheap iron ($21.99) and set up an ironing station.
 

 
The hold-down is important, because without it, it's still possible for the plank to "buckle." With the hold-down, it works very smoothly.
 

 
And here is the plank in position -

 
I am now a convert to this method. I'm expecting it to be especially helpful for the second layer. In the past I have sometimes found the second layer more difficult and frustrating because if the plank doesn't lay perfectly flat, the glue doesn't hold and sanding results in gaps. I think this is going to improve things for me considerably.
 
Thanks for checking in.
David
 

I am determined to improve my planking skills with this build, so have been trying a couple of experiments with the first layer. 
 
I tried my hand at two of Chuck's suggestions - the first was spiling and the second edge bending with an iron. The spiling works well in that it certainly solves the problem of the planks tending to "step" at the bow. However, it presents its own set of challenges and it needs some wider stock to work with. I tried one spiled plank on the port side, but no need for a picture of it - it's a bit rough and once you see it, you won't be able to "un-see" it. I don't want to ruin anyone's day.
 
However, the iron method works really well and is pretty much foolproof. I bought a cheap iron ($21.99) and set up an ironing station.
 

 
The hold-down is important, because without it, it's still possible for the plank to "buckle." With the hold-down, it works very smoothly.
 

 
And here is the plank in position -

 
I am now a convert to this method. I'm expecting it to be especially helpful for the second layer. In the past I have sometimes found the second layer more difficult and frustrating because if the plank doesn't lay perfectly flat, the glue doesn't hold and sanding results in gaps. I think this is going to improve things for me considerably.
 
Thanks for checking in.
David
 

I've made a little more progress on the Speedy. It is impossible to overstate how perfectly the pieces fit together and what a pleasure they are to work with.
I added the upper sub-deck which popped into place beautifully. Fairing the hull seemed a relatively easy chore. The mdf is a lot nicer to work with than plywood and with the lower deck and upper sub-deck in place, which essentially serve as guides, it was hard to go too far wrong. I did get a little over zealous on the the second to last bullkhead when I pre-sanded it before its installation. I had to fix it with a thin strip.

 

 
The gunport strips were causing me a lot of anxiety, because I knew that they can be a bit tricky and I've never built a model that uses them before. However, the job wasn't too bad and again, I think it is because they are so perfectly designed and cut to fit.
 
Like almost everyone else, I had a small bit of wrinkling with the bow sections,  but nothing that can't be easily fixed with some sanding.

 

 
The two sides meet up really well with the the two stern pieces. I needed a very small amount of sanding on the port side and just a tad more sanding on the starboard, side.

 
Gunport strips installed -

 
First strip of planking added -
You can see the two spots where there was a little wrinkling and I've done some "experimental" sanding. It isn't fully sanded at this point, of course, but I just wanted to discover if it could be easily sanded out and I believe it can be.

 
I have a new tool - a miniature block plane from Lee Valley.

 
It's hard to tell from the picture, but this thing is small; just 2 1/2" long and 3/4" wide. I intend to use it to taper planks and to bevel their inner edges. I used it on the one plank I've installed so far and it worked very nicely; especially for beveling the edge.
 
That's my update for now. Thanks for looking in, comments, and "likes."
David
 
 
 
 
 

This weekend I have been doing channels. Very fiddly if you ask me. To  make them sturdy I drilled two holes on the back side towards the hull in which I put two nails backwards into the edge of the channel. Then I gently pushed the channels towards the hull to create a small punch mark. I drilled 0.7 mm holes as guidance. This way it is possible to try out the correct position. Twice I actually drilled new holes 2-3 mm aside to get a better position. Anyhow the edge of the channel hides the old holes.
 

 
Best regards
 
Henrik

I've made a little more progress on the Speedy. It is impossible to overstate how perfectly the pieces fit together and what a pleasure they are to work with.
I added the upper sub-deck which popped into place beautifully. Fairing the hull seemed a relatively easy chore. The mdf is a lot nicer to work with than plywood and with the lower deck and upper sub-deck in place, which essentially serve as guides, it was hard to go too far wrong. I did get a little over zealous on the the second to last bullkhead when I pre-sanded it before its installation. I had to fix it with a thin strip.

 

 
The gunport strips were causing me a lot of anxiety, because I knew that they can be a bit tricky and I've never built a model that uses them before. However, the job wasn't too bad and again, I think it is because they are so perfectly designed and cut to fit.
 
Like almost everyone else, I had a small bit of wrinkling with the bow sections,  but nothing that can't be easily fixed with some sanding.

 

 
The two sides meet up really well with the the two stern pieces. I needed a very small amount of sanding on the port side and just a tad more sanding on the starboard, side.

 
Gunport strips installed -

 
First strip of planking added -
You can see the two spots where there was a little wrinkling and I've done some "experimental" sanding. It isn't fully sanded at this point, of course, but I just wanted to discover if it could be easily sanded out and I believe it can be.

 
I have a new tool - a miniature block plane from Lee Valley.

 
It's hard to tell from the picture, but this thing is small; just 2 1/2" long and 3/4" wide. I intend to use it to taper planks and to bevel their inner edges. I used it on the one plank I've installed so far and it worked very nicely; especially for beveling the edge.
 
That's my update for now. Thanks for looking in, comments, and "likes."
David