Ryland Craze

I couldn't wait and had to install them to see how it looks. At least in here will be safer while the oil dries. It's a pretty thin mix with the humbrol and thinners should be done overnight. . I've had to wait weeks in the past for oils to dry on some projects.
 

 
And here's a shot of His majesty's bomb vessel Granado in her current state of disrepair. Only other recent additions are the main hatch ring bolts, hole for the main mast and stern fascia, which I'll post a pic of when I head back down that again soon.
 

With several of you folks starting to rig the longboat I figured it would be good to post these images of a rigged longboat from the NMM.  And before anyone remarks how they may be copyright...I checked into the images and they are not as long as you credit the NMM.
 
SO....."These images are provided generously from the NMM for our educational use"  and are not stored in our database.  Our site is pulling the images direct from the NMM site.  We are just pointing to what is already made available to the public.
Collection images must always credit ‘National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London’ and link to the original collection record on the NMM collections website. Collections OnlineThe NMM has developed an Application Programming Interface (API) to make it easy for individuals and organisations to share its collection records and images with the public. If you need to download more than 25 images at a time, you are encouraged to use the API.
Collection images must always credit ‘National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London’ and link to the original collection record on the NMM collections website. Do not make an unreasonable number of API calls or compromise the experience of other users. As a guide, you should make no more than 3000 calls per day and no more than one request per second. We may place more formal limits on the API in the future. The maximum allowed enlargement of images is 1200 pixels along the longest length of the image. Do note that these images are made available for non-commercial use only. Please contact the Picture Library if you would like to use the NMM’s collection records under different conditions.
 
Got that out of the way.
 
 
Enjoy.  They show the rigging very clearly.  Click on them and they are even larger.
 
Chuck
 

Some years ago, when the kit first came out, I bought one from Bob Hunt (Lauckstreet). Unfortunately, that was well before I had ever heard of MSW and also well before I was aware of the TFFM books by David Antscherl. The kit appeared to provide an opportunity for someone like me without any power tools to build a fully framed model, without spending the rest of my life trying to cut all the framing by hand. While the kit had some shortcomings and problems (e.g. the provided building jig was more trouble than help), it did, in fact, allow me to build a boxwood fully framed model of a Swan class ship in 1:48 scale.
 
From the beginning, I decided on two major changes from the kit. First, I wanted to do a rigged model, rather than the hull only model provided for in the kit. Second, and in part as a result of the first decision, I chose to plank both sides of the upper hull and bulwarks, rather than only one side as provided in the kit. This led me to my first of a number of happy experiences with Jeff Hayes at Hobbymill, to get the additional wood needed.
 
By the time that I joined the original MSW, I had completed the hull framing and had planked the wales and upper outer hull. Sadly, I have no photos of any of that work. At about that time, I also obtained the first two volumes of TFFM, which then became an invaluable aid to the project. Reference to the books allowed me to make various changes and additions to the kit as I proceeded from that point. In hindsight, I regret that I didn't have the opportunity to see the kinds of spectacular work that has been done by Remco, Danny and Toni on their Swans and that I lacked the imagination or confidence to try to do that kind of interior detailing.
 
After completing the hull work, I took a pause of about a year to await the publication of TFFM Vol. 4, before doing the masting and rigging. I built the MS Syren during that pause.
 
This log will be a repost of those photos that I still have, together with some brief summary text. The pictures attached to this post are a couple of the completed model photos. Subsequent posts will begin with the work after framing and hull planking.
 
Bob

The Granado is my second wooden ship build.  This follows the cutter Sherbourne which you can follow the link to in the MSW gallery.
The Granado was chosen for a vessel offering more than a single mast but still able to be displayed in a reasonable space.
Firstly a tribute to all the prior Granados on MSW's former incarnation - they proved immensely helpful and I owe a huge tribute to you all in helping to spot impending difficulties and work around them thanks to your efforts. 
After wantonly pillaging MSW for help with my first build it's time to add to the basket of knowledge that MSW members have so graciously given to me.
This build is by no means complete but hopefully of use to others as I found previous members' posts.
So on to the build...
The build was started in April 2012 and at this stage I've just completed the second planking above the wales and filed out the gunports.
The Caldercraft kit is all the usual business like efficiency with little in the way of complaints. The fittings are top quality with turned brass cannon, limewood for the first planking and walnut for the second.
 

 
No, it's not a botch. The lens curve making the stem appear out of alignment here.
 

 
One thing to watch for on this kit is setting the gunport patterns correctly. I thought I was being very clever in measuring the placement from the base of the keel. It resulted in patterns not quite meeting the tips of the bulkhead patterns. As a result at least half of the gunports had to be raised slightly.
Better to just fit them to the tops of the bulkheads. Oh well.
 

 
Another thing to watch for is the sweep ports. The instructions don't mention them until after the gunport patterns have been installed despite the plans showing them as illustrated. From there it's the somewhat more difficult matter of cutting them through from the outside and matching them up with the inner spirketting - no easy task. If your want the sweep ports showing on the inside then tak e gauge of where they should be before installing the gunport patterns and adjust once the lot is installed. It's not difficult but comes down to reading the instructions all the way through before taking any steps.
 

 
I found it made more sense to skip ahead in the build and install the lower stern counter before the upper hull sides were planked. It allowed the upper stern counter to be shaped to fit and also allowed the wales to be shaped to fit around it. The black used here is probably a bit too dark to see the chase ports to best effect. That might be looked at later.
 

 
The mortars went together nicely after some cleaning up. The mortars themselves are nicely cast brass that just needs some time with a file to bring out the best. Some brass wire handles were added as per Peter Goodwin's excellent Anatomy of the Sip Grandado book.
The example here is the stern mortar - the smaller of the two on board.
Following shots show the mortar surrounds in place which are identical for each of the two mortars aboard.
 

 

Ok folks...the registration form has been added to the bottom of the page...
 
http://www.thenrg.org/2013-nrg-charleston-conference-details.php
 
Dont forget to book your hotel separately...and use the code for the conference discount.
 
Chuck 

Yes it looks like the syren is a perfect choice!

Planking is done.  If I want to pull the planks off and fix the planking, now is the time.  Otherwise, it's time to remove the bulkhead centers.
 


 
    I decided to use a Dremel with cutoff wheel for this.  Caution is important to avoid any damage to exterior planking.
 
    As indicated by others, even though the model is very delicate at this point, it is surprisingly sturdy.  Extra care must be taken here.  As I sand down the insides of the frames, the structure becomes weaker.  Once you start adding things to the interior, it becomes stronger again.

With the addition of the fourth plank on each side, it was time to put the transom on.  Like my fellow Tri-Club member, Toni, I decided to brace up the piece with two strips of scrap wood, rather than the two planks recommended in the instructions.  The tick marks seem to be working out pretty well, so I'm going to continue adding planks from the keel up.  As I approach those braces, the transom should be pretty stable, and the bracing will be removed.  Anyway, that's my plan.  We'll see what happens.

Ryland,
 
I'm really glad that I could be of some help to you.  Not a bad idea, leaving the other garboard strake in while you work on the new one.  If you're not sure about something I did, please don't hesitate to contact me.  Good luck, mate!
 
Bob

Thank you so much for your kind words.
 
Popeye, That’s a first for me. Another neat design by Chuck.
 
Andy I know you can do it!
 
Augie, The plans are the best I’ve ever seen but it’s Chucks design and
outstanding instructions that put it way over the top.
 
John, It’s always nice to hear from you. Thanks
 
Daniel, The wood is Holly and it simulates white paint really nice. Thanks.
 
Well we have completed our trip down memory lane. It was a fun one.
 
Thanks again to all of you who shared it with me.
 
Here are some pictures of the finished model.
 
Cheers!  
 
 

Thank you all so very much. This walk with you down memory
lane has been a lot of fun.
 
Here are the ships boats.
 
 

Here are a series of photos of the third plank being worked on.  Nothing really different with this strake, other than the fact that it has a much more abrupt twist at the stern. Maybe it's my imagnation, but the curve at the bow also seems to be more pronounced.  Anyway, I like to concentrate on shaping the forward end of the plank first, since the stern hasn't given me much of a problem.


 
Once the forward portion fits pretty well, I mark where the plank starts changing shape at the stern, and begin working with it.


 
These photos show that abrupt twist and the final result.


 
 

Masting Update:
 
After acquiring the requisite diminutive drill bits I was able to continue towards completion of the longboat, but I must admit, that this phase is completely alien to me, as I have always given rigging a wide berth on any plastic kit that I have ever worked on..  And I am finding the learning curve on seizing blocks, and making sure that lines run straight to be rather steep.  After the first round I am happy with how the mast and bow spirit came out, but the sheet tackle needs reworked.  I knew it wasn't going to work right when I first seized the block to the horse, which didn't sit right.  So I will be re-doing that part in the near future.
 
One tip that I can perhaps pass on, a helpful to me, trick for getting the holes through the brass mast fittings.  Even with an awl, I was at first having problems with getting the necessary sized hole in the fitting.  So, I made the fitting wider by striking it with a small hammer.  I didn't need to work it very much because the brass is soft. but it gave me some extra room to work.  Once the hole was drilled, and the CA set, I ground the excess material off with a rotary tool.

Working on finishing up the deck furniture. Those scary dark rigging clouds are looming on the horizon
Installed the timberheads and decided to keep them with a natural finish. Fabricated the Bowsprit but still need finishing and details, just placed loose. Tried to do it the "planer/octagon" method and created scrap, had better luck with the drill motor and sandpaper. (would still like to achieve plabner skills, prob need better planer than $10 stanley trimming plane?) Catheads installed/Painted Swivel posts installed, I opted for a pair on the quarter deck instead of between the shrouds, plus provides a bit more firepower toward the stern area. Stairs were a pain in the butt, managed it but spiked my BP  , (next time make a fixture). Working on the cannons. The laser cut trucks end up a bit small when made true round, so I used the large ones as the small and fabricated large trucks. Next up, blackening metal for all the various ringbolts, cleats etc. Question regarding cannon rigging.
There is an eyebolt and a ringbolt on each side of the carriage. I know the size to use for the ringbolt, but what about the eyebolt? Large 3/32 or small 1/16 dia provided? It is where the hook on the block attaches.

This is a reposting of my build a couple of years ago of Syren. As I'm sure that all who have done the model would agree, it is a beautifully designed kit with great plans and practicum by Chuck. I did choose, however, to make some changes. The principal change was to substitute boxwood for the kit wood for the upper hull, bulwarks and deck furniture and holly for the kit wood for the deck planking. Construction generally followed standard procedures and Chuck's instructions.
 
The reposting will be in a number of installments. I have my photos, but the original text is all gone. Brief summaries of each section of work will be added to the photos.
 
Framing, hull and bulwark planking, deck planking and coppering:   Framing was straight forward and followed the kit procedures, with the exception that, as I always do, I added extra bracing to the bulkhead-- center keel attachment for additional strength and stability. For the lower hull planking, I used the kit basswood, since it would all be covered by the coppering of the lower hull. For the same reason, I did not spend any effort on reproducing an exact reproduction of a correct planking pattern, but concentrated on getting a fair and smooth surface for the copper. Caulking of the upper hull and deck planks was simulated by using a pencil on one edge and one end of each plank. Treenailing of the upper hull and decking was simulated using the method shown by Chuck of filling drilled holes with golden oak filler. The unpainted boxwood was finished with Wipe-on poly and the painted portions were done with Pollyscale paints. The coppering was done using the kit supplied copper tape. 
 
Bob
 
 

David –
 
Great job of milling your wood and thank you for a very informative post.
 
You mentioned a couple of subtle points that from my experience that I would like to emphasize.
 
Your first step of squaring the wood prior to going to the bandsaw really makes that task easier and it significantly improves the quality of your sheets.
 
The other comment about the orientation of your stock prior to bandsawing is another important point.  When creating sheet stock that will be used for planking, such as in your example, you will want your cuts oriented just as you showed to minimize figure in your final planks.  If the sheet will be used to cut pieces from a scroll saw then sometimes rotating the wood 90 degrees prior to running through the bandsaw will produce a better looking sheet.
 
I have a very similar setup and use Jim’s table saw to produce my stripwood.  I started out using a very similar setup on my Byrnes saw, but over time I’ve made a couple changes that may be of interest.
 
I’ve found that using the slitting blades that Jim sells on his website, .030” and .040” kerf, produce planks, at least for me, that have a more consistent size.  Mostly I use those two blades, but for cutting thin stock I will stay with a 3” blade about .030” kerf and go to finer pitches.  This will avoid chipout and the blade is always in contact with the wood, which avoids interrupted cuts and hence chatter as well.
 
When I first started milling I used my extended fence, but later found that if I remove it, I can see better if the sheet stock is wandering away from the fence.  I was surprised but I can cut stock up to 3/8” thick into planks just using the standard fence.
 
I added a splitter, just as you have done, and also made some custom finger boards.  Over time I started using a block of wood that fits into the palm of my hand to add light side pressure to the sheet.  This holds it into the fence and also helps a lot to hold the sheet down on the table.  A block about 2” thick x 4” wide x 6” long works well for me.  I just rounded the edges against the palm.  Of course I keep it ahead of the blade on the table to avoid pushing the sheet sideways into the blade.  Using the block I  eliminated the splitter and finger boards.
 
To avoid burning or binding, which is more common with the slitting blades because they do not have any back taper, I will add some back taper to the fence.  Jim’s fence has .008” back taper built into it, but sometimes that just isn’t enough.  When I set the fence, I will set it at .005” oversize and lock in both front and back.  Then I come back and loosen the front and move it back in .005”, which is back to your original desired dimension.  This normally eliminates any binding or burning.
 
A final issue that I found, and then I’ll shut-up, is that as I was feeding sheets to be cut they would start out wide enough to extend beyond the groove for the miter in the table top.  As you cut more and more planks the left edge would eventually be over that miter groove and with thin stock my handheld block would drop down into the groove.  Just adding a piece of scrap wood that press fits into the groove eliminated that frustration.
 
Jim’s tools are certainly a work of art and very durable.  I’ve used my saw to cut all of my stipwood and that is over 500,000 pieces using the same saw.
 
Didn’t mean to hijack your thread, but this is one of the few areas where I can make a contribution on this board.  I’m in this business to promote and help shipbuilders rather than make money, so if anyone has a question on milling I am very willing to lend my thoughts, even if you aren’t buying anything from me.
 
Again, great job on your milling and your post.
 
Jeff Hayes
HobbyMill

David -
 
I hear that a lot about staying away from slitting blades on hardwoods.  Almost everything that I mill is a hardwood such as box or pear.  The other reason that I use the slitting blades is selfish in that with the smaller kerf there is less waste.  The extra .010" or .020" over time adds up.  I only use my carbide blade a couple times a year for specialty cutting where my full size shop tools are too large.  Usually it is for slitting larger sheets into 1" or 2" widths.
 
 
Greg -
 
I preset my calipers to +.005, plus kerf of my blade, plus desired width of plank.  Lay the calipers on the table with the end against the blade and the measuring end that protrudes from the calipers going beyond the blade.  Move the fence over to just touching the calipers.  Lock both front and back of fence.  Then unlock both my calipers and the lock on the front of the fence and move the fence towards the left towards the blade the extra .005 that you initially added in.  I watch my calipers to do this.  In my case I do not have Jim's mic head on the front of my saw.  Woods with more sugar in them will burn more.  Pear is the worst, followed by cherry, and holly.  Boxwood hardly ever burns.  If you start to have burning, it doesn't take much before your saw blade is gummed up.  A blade with tar or gum on it will always leave marks.  Use Awesome Cleaner with a toothbrush and it does a great job of cleaning blades.  It is water based and comes in spray bottles from the Dollar Store...$1 bottle lasts me over a year.  Your wife may already use it as a pretreatment when doing laundry.
 
I've told several people about the back taper and they have had positive results.  If I am cutting wider planks, I will increase it to .010.  If a sheet is warped or if there are a lot of hidden stresses where the wood moves as you are cutting, then there isn't much that you can do.  Jim once told me that starting with good sheet stock is essential for success of his saw and I agree.  I've had sheets where I cut the first 10 planks perfectly, the next 5 bend at right angles as I'm milling the planks, and then the remainder of the sheet resumes producing good planks.  Its just internal stress that you are releasing in the milling process and there isn't anything that you can do about it.
 
Also just remembered that you need to watch the grain in the sheet.  Most times it is not perfectly straight.  If you cut a plank that is right on dimension when you start the cut but it tapers or widens at the other end of the plank (assuming the sheet stays against the fence), then the blade is tending to follow the grain.  Most times you can just flip the sheet end over end and you will start to produce perfect planks.
 
Hope the ideas help a little!
 
Cheers,
 
Jeff Hayes
HobbyMill

Making a little progress after getting back in town from a trip.
 
After attaching the keel and knees and letting the whole thing sit in the DeskMate for a couple of days, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the BF warp was completely gone.


 
 
Now time to add the bulkheads.  I found one that was missing a sizable portion of the middle ply and the bulwark extension was hanging by just a thread of the outer ply.  The picture is not so good, but you get the idea....
 

 
What to do, what to do?  I braced the bulkhead  and shot it full of expanding foam.  After it cured, I carved off the excess foam and hardened the exposed surface of the foam with some glue.  Came out pretty good I think.  Was a lot easier than trying to carve wood to fit exactly in the hole.
 

 

 
Gluing in the bulkheads trying to be very precise with alignment....
 

 

 
It is no secret that the bulwark extensions on the bulkheads are fragile.  But, in my kit, they were extra flimsy.  I think the laser cutter was set too hot.  Instead of making a nice little line on the surface of the wood, the reference lines burned thru the first ply and, in some cases, half way thru the center core.  You can see how that would make them even easier to break than normal.  I think I probably broke off half of them at one point or another.  If you're getting ready to start your own Syren, you may want to dab some CA on these reference marks before you remove the bulkheads from the plywood sheets.
Has anyone else had this problem, or was I just the lucky one?
 

 
Out into the garage for the next step.  Going to make lots of sawdust cutting and fitting the filler blocks.
 
Used balsa filler blocks to stiffen things up.  Shaped and sanded the filler blocks to match the bulkheads. 
 
Used a drum sander on a drill press to do the initial shaping/faring of the bulkheads. 
 

 
Back inside to start working on the gun port framing.  Used a batten and the gun port template to find a nice line across the hull.  Turns out the reference lines on my kit were dang close.  My line never varied by more than 1/32" from the reference marks.  This step is just a lot of cutting, trimming, sanding, and gluing.  Kind of relaxing.  I found that Binder clips really helped with the sills.  After dry fitting, the binder clips make a nice little shelf to sit the sill on when gluing it in and help to keep the sills nice and level.
 

 
To make it easier to install the lintels, I made little 15/32" spacers.
 

 
Now I didn't have to worry about measuring anything.  Just sit the lintels on the spacers for perfect parallel installation.
 

 
Now it's back out into the garage to sand the framing down to match the bulwarks....
 
 

A Few Updates,
 
First as you can see the mast was constructed and the Iron work made as per the instructions, blocks added and then it was stepped a tiny amount aft, about 5 degrees, I prefer the look.
 
 
Then the main boom was made and a tiny piece of wire was used as the hook on the end to go into mast reciever, I then rigged it up and installed it, with the block on the horse which shall go under my rudder as per Chucks original design.
 
 
Then the Gaff Boom was made and rigged, I left the parrells brass instead of painting them as I wanted the contrast and them to be noticeable.
 
 
Started making the chainplates/deadeyes and here you can see the starboard side have been added.
 
I really must start thinking how I am going to mount her, pedastals or cradle.
 
 
 
ben

Added the friezes.  Still have the trim piece to install below the frieze and the hull will be complete.  I used the friezes downloaded from this forum.  The smallest one fit my hull perfectly.  The ones supplied in the kit were way too large.
 
   Bob R.

You got that right Jim. There is also some food down there. Breadcrumbs falling out of my mouth as I slaved over open pits.

Adam and Bob, Thanks for the comments. I am having fun with it.  Worked on it a bit today.  Faired the deck frames, installed the planksheers and the side guards. I soaked the log rails in water a few minutes and am forming them to the hull. Only one pic to add today.
 

Yeh, I've almost finished mine now, just on the rigging now, damn tiny blocks!! But most of my building time ( not much at moment ) is spent in the Confederacy with occasional jumps back to the Longboat.
 
Ben

Finishing the Hull Details, and Preparing for Masting:
 
Since the last build update, I have finished the details related to the hull, including oarlocks, windlass, rudder, horse, and eye rings.  I am still not especially happy with the windlass, in terms of how it's finish looks.  Even though the facets of the piece are relatively sharp, being filed into the wood, they are not well, defined, at least not under any light I have seen it under yet.  Does anybody know of a finishing technique to bring out sharp facets in such a small piece of wood?
 
The handles for the windlass have been made, but I will not put them on until the finishing details of the model are being installed.  The projecting handles just seemed too susceptible to being damaged at this point if I were to put them on.  A tip that I can perhaps offer about the installation of the Windlass.  I was wondering how I was going to get it into the riser without scratching the wood with the wire axle.  Instead of installing the wire into the windlass, I put pieces on each side through the riser, then positioned the windlass with drops of glue in the axle holes, then with fine tweezers pulled the axle wires through the riser and into the windlass.  It worked pretty well.
 
I also sanded the cap rail paint, and trim strip slightly, and put a few wash coats of paint to even it out a little.
 
When installing the horse, I chose to go with one that spans over the tiller rather than under it.  It may not look as clean from a presentation perspective, but I think it makes much more practical sense.  In the instructions to the kit, Chuck does mention that boats of a later decade did have this raised horse, so I will call my example from a later decade in the 18th century.
 

 

 

 

 
I have also started the main mast, and have opted to carve a mast step, like that shown in the plans. 
 

 
 

But I can sneak in a few minutes on the computer at work, can't do that with the building of models at work. LOL.
 
Later 42rocker