Ryland Craze
-
Posts
1,536 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
Ryland Craze reacted to WoodProjectSource in Please Welcome "Wood Project Source" as a new sponsor of MSW
I just wanted to post a quick update that METRIC sizes are now available for Swiss Pear and Boxwood sheets. The sheets are still 3" x 24" long (7.5 x 60.5 cm) and you can select your metric thickness to configure your price. I think you will be very pleased with our product and our prices. We will be updating our other woods with metric sizes very soon.
1mm thick - $11
1.5mm thick -$11
2mm thick -$12
3mm thick -$13
4mm thick -$15
5mm thick -$17
6mm thick -$18
7mm thick -$19
Visit our online store at www.woodprojectsource.com
Thank you for your business and if you have any questions please email me at woodprojectsource@gmail.com
Roman
-
Ryland Craze reacted to Stuntflyer in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Hello!
I managed to complete the shrouds today. "Turning in" the deadeyes required a few do overs and a test of my patience. The lanyards are not secured. I like to go back and look at things when my mind is fresh before committing. Next, I want to clean up the chainplates which is something I try not to look at since right now they look like c***.
Mike
-
Ryland Craze reacted to davec in Echo by davec - FINISHED - cross-section
I decided to plank boxwood down to the waterline and holly below. The top of the waterline is pretty close to the bottom of the wales. I used a taper jig to taper strips of boxwood and holly, and glued them together into a single plank 10" scale in width. I need to rip out the plank below this one that tapers from 3 1/2" to 3" thick, then can begin planking. I think I am going to take the approach that the whitestuff would cover the treenails and not spend a week treenailing under the waterline. I will probably treenail the boxwood below and above the wales.
Dave
-
Ryland Craze reacted to davec in Echo by davec - FINISHED - cross-section
Toni, Greg, and Mike -
Many thanks for the tip about the model airplane dope. I used it when I lived in a small apartment 25 years ago and was trying stick and paper airplanes - it was the only kind of project I had enough room for.
I learned my lesson about Holly when I was working on the Rattlesnake. I spent a lot of time making a black and white parquet floor for the captain's cabin out of ebony and holly, then finished it with minwax wipe-on poly and had a yellow and white floor - very disappointing. I experimented with a bunch of clear coats (haven't tried dope) and found that the minwax water based poly works really well. It puts a nice surface coat on without soaking in and changing the wood color.
The holly deck in the Hannah picture above was finished with the water based poly about 6 years ago, and I have the deck and whitestuff on the Rattlesnake from about 10 years ago also with the original white color unchanged. The tin I have of it is 10 years old and probably no good anymore so I will need to decide whether to switch to dope or get a new container of the poly. It is a good alternative for people who like water cleanups.
thanks!
Dave
-
Ryland Craze reacted to Torbogdan in Fokker Dr.I by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Model Airways
Sometimes life gets in the way of hobbies, and these are the facts for me at the moment. Building will continue and so will the updates but maybe at a slower pace. I do not have all the time i want to pursue my hobby for the moment. So what i want to say is that I´m going to build the model but might not update or build as much/often as I have with my previous builds.
So do not despair it will be finished! But have a bit of patience
-
Ryland Craze reacted to CharlieZardoz in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
Well here is a new pattern, the front still square is only 4 by 4 now. This puts the galley stack closer to the center and looks a bit more in perspective to the larger grating in the back.
-
Ryland Craze reacted to CharlieZardoz in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
Second is a more modified version the one is front is 5 by 5 holes and the one in back 8 by 8 holes. This one is similar in dimensions to various kits mamoli/krick/AL etc and honestly looks the best in my opinion. The other option would be to vary them up, last pic shows the one in front 4 by 5 and the 8 by 8 in the back. I'm open to opinions which do you all think looks best? Otherwise I'll probably pick option 3 with the mixed approach since to my eyes it just right. Also what about the size of the grating holes do they look to scale?
-
Ryland Craze reacted to CharlieZardoz in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
Small update today. I made some test gratings based on the scale gratings I got from Syren. So question here is what looks best. The first set up is what is measured exactly from Chapelle plans. Using this grating the one is front is 4 by 5 holes the bigger one is 7 by 8 holes. This could work but the rear grating seems a tad small.
-
Ryland Craze reacted to JesseLee in Syren by JesseLee - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale: 1:64
Trying to get well enough to get back to the build. Fighting a mighty war with my health. Was beginning to get some better until last night, now in another fierce battle again. I do have some minor updates to come when things get better. Got most of the deck fittings made and ready to start rigging the carronades. Hope to post updates soon.
Jesse
-
Ryland Craze reacted to Chuck in 18th century English Longboat by Chuck - FINISHED - c.1760
Here you go....if you can find an 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of self adhesive label paper I recommend using that. It makes things a lot easier. I know you only need one sheet but for future projects it worth the investment. You can buy self adhesive paper that is micro thin on ebay.....25 sheets per pack.
longboatfreizes.pdf
-
Ryland Craze reacted to 6ohiocav in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
TOPSAIL YARD, LIFT AND HALLIARD
I worked on the topsail yard for the main mast. I pinned it to the mast, and attached the lifts and halliards. I still have to attach the parrel.
Topsail Yard lift: I used .012 rope, seized to the end of the yard with a 1/8 block stropped to the end (which I believe would be used for the clew line if rigged with sails), then routed through 1/8 block in the shrouds, and then will be belayed to the deck.
Topsail Yard Halliard: I used a long single strand of .018 rope. I started by running it through the Starboard 1/8 block in the shrouds, then down to the 5/32 block seized to the center of the yard, and then up to the 1/8 block in the port shrouds. Both ends of this rope will be belayed to tackles attached to the channels.
I am now getting close to stepping the mast. The spaghetti mass of ropes is starting to get a bit out of hand. I still have to seize some blocks for the spanker mast, and generally work on preparing the mast for the booms. As I found on the foremast, once stepped, the process of attaching all of the lines will move at a spirited pace.
-
Ryland Craze reacted to Anguirel in Triton cross section by Anguirel -1:48
Hi
This was waiting for me when I arrived home yesterday, finally I will be able o keep things squared.
As for the black paper on the frames, the double frames they are sturdy enough ( if the one I built can be used as an example) the simple ones might be a ploblem. I used the paper because I read somewhere that they used tar or pitch on the frame joints, but now I can't find it, will have to go through the books again...
-
Ryland Craze reacted to Erik W in How much are you willing to pay
I had to do some of that mental math between my first build and my current build. My first build was the Model Shipways 18th Century Longboat at $40, with some new hand tools, and some of Chuck's rope, say around $100 total . . . for a 6 month project. My current build is Chuck's Cheerful built with boxwood. Most of the cost was up front, with follow-on purchases as I've needed more supplies, or hand tools. I think my total cost will be around $800. I was a bit put off by this price tag, by far the most I've ever spent on a single model, but I did the math for the cost per day over an estimated 3 years (knowing my slow speed) of working on it, and it comes to $.73 a day. Very reasonable in the long run. At times, I've gone months without spending money on the Cheerful project. Of course, a new parallel hobby seems to be collecting sailing ship books . . . I, er, won't talk about the cost of those 35 books.
Also, I made the decision to choose a second build that wouldn't require power tools. If I get to the end of the Cheerful, and am confident I've found another life long hobby, I may dive into the expense of power tools.
Erik
-
Ryland Craze reacted to CDW in USS Essex CV-9 by CDW (Craig) - Trumpeter - 1:350 - PLASTIC
Nine more of these 20mm guns remain to be built, a total of forty five 20mm guns. Sheesh.
-
Ryland Craze reacted to KevinR in Albatross by KevinR - 1:32 scale - Skipjack
Hello Everyone and thanks for stopping by.
Today I attempted to make my first metal parts, the Pentle and Gudgeon.
The first try went well. It looked good until I tried to trim it with the rotary tool. It heated up and twisted in the vise.
The second try went better (not smoother). I kept dropping the tiny parts on the floor. I had to re-cut a couple of times because I could not find it.
I used a hand saw to cut the tubing this time and a lot more hand filing.
I still need to notch the rudder so the gudgeon is centered under the rudder post.
This is the tin snips I purchased to cut the sheet of brass. I am hoping I can find some smaller. This pair is too large and makes it hard to see the score marks for cutting. Anyone have a recommendation?
Well that is it for today. Tomorrow is a holiday so I may get more time in tomorrow.
Untill next time,
Catch Yall Later,
-
Ryland Craze reacted to KevinR in Albatross by KevinR - 1:32 scale - Skipjack
I just bought the smallest pair of tin snips That I could find at the local Ace. Hopefully it is not to big to cut what I need.
-
Ryland Craze reacted to KevinR in Albatross by KevinR - 1:32 scale - Skipjack
Hello Everyone and thanks for stopping by.
Well I have just a quick update. I Competed building the rudder. I made it from 1/4x1/4" poplar, sanded down to 1/4x1/8" and then glued up. Sorry forgot to take pictures of the in-between. I then shaped it using my belt sander. This weekend I plan on starting on my attempts to make the pintle, and gudgeon for the rudder. This will be my first attempt at making metal parts, wish me luck.
Completed Rudder and Skeg.
Rudder and Skeg Dry Fitted.
Until next time!
Catch Yall Later,
-
Ryland Craze reacted to Tigersteve in 18th Century Longboat by Tigersteve - FINISHED - Model Shipways
In the second round of installing the oarlocks, I used a straight edge to draw a line roughly in the center of the caprail in the locations where the oarlocks would be placed. I then used a small file to draw two equally spaced perpendicular lines. This method worked much better for me. Not perfect but I'm getting used to drilling these tiny holes!
Repainting the caprail was not fun. I wanted to see how Minwax Polycrylic(water based) satin would look over the paint job. I think it provided a little more sheen than the Minwax WOP. It certainly dries quicker and no time to buff to dull the shine. It's a little more shine than I want, but I think I may accept it, as the idea of painting it again is exhausting.
The rudder setup is just about done. The tiller has been shaped and stained. I will install on the next updates. I think I'll work on the oars next.
Steve
-
Ryland Craze reacted to Tigersteve in 18th Century Longboat by Tigersteve - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Thanks Chuck and everyone for all the likes! In the middle of another redo with the oarlocks. I had them installed but I rushed it a bit so naturally it has to be redone. Probably a week to correct this with the filling of holes, sanding, painting, etc.
Here's some photos of other progress: belay pins painted (photo of the paint used). Pleasantly surprised by the quality of this paint. Metal work for the rudder and such is shown along with the horse and windlass handles on the side for now while the caprail gets repainted and oarlocks installed.
Steve
-
Ryland Craze reacted to dvm27 in Echo by davec - FINISHED - cross-section
Nice wales, Dave. I also used the clear dope, but diluted, and the wood looks like the day it was applied. Smells great when applying also!
-
Ryland Craze reacted to tlevine in Echo by davec - FINISHED - cross-section
I don't know about historically accurate but if you want that holly to stay white-white finish it with clear dope. That is the advise given to me by David A. and it worked wonderfully. After a year there is not a hint of yellowing.
-
Ryland Craze reacted to davec in Echo by davec - FINISHED - cross-section
Wales added. I put up two pictures, one with flash, one without. The one with flash makes it easier to see the anchor stock shape, and the one without gives a better sense of what it looks like under natural light. The wood is ebony and treenails are cherry. It has been sanded and has a single coat of minwax wipe-on poly. I'm OK with the contrast between the ebony and cherry. The treenails are deliberately a little undersized. Steel says 1 1/4", but they are more like 1.1". I think they end up looking bigger than they actually are, and when I go full size it looks (to me) too speckled and distracting.
I'm going to work on the planking below the wales next. I plan to use holly where the "white stuff" would be. My understanding is that it was used below the waterline, although there are a few posts scattered throughout the site saying it was OK to use below the wales. (It is hard to search on the site - searching for "white stuff" mostly brings up posts about snow). The waterline is not that far below the wale for this part of the ship. I think I will mark out the waterline, plank with box down to it, and holly below. It will probably have one split plank that it part holly and part box, but I did this on Rattlesnake and it worked OK. If whitestuff to the wale is historically accurate, it would be easier - any thoughts?
Thanks!
Dave
-
Ryland Craze reacted to Moonbug in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
Got some progress done today. Tedious, and nothing elegant - ladders, fenders and chesstrees.
Then took the opportunity to neutral stain and layer most of the recent work with matte lacquer.
-
Ryland Craze reacted to Moonbug in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
Finished off the bow this weekend by adding the boomkins, associated rigging and blocks, and then the railing.
-
Ryland Craze reacted to RGL in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
After a few days off due to illness, the 25mm triple mass production continues.
For ease of application they are laid out on masking tape and the barrels added.
Then the magazines folded and placed in blue tack facing the right way for application.
Then the sights and rear handles added. Whilst the alignment is not perfect, they are soo tiny it is not really noticeable with the naked eye.
Our Emblem ®
