Ryland Craze

You have done a very neat job there, Kevin.

that is the hull mainly complete, but everyone who knows me, i chop and change, and never start on page one and turn to page two, me im more of page 1, then 27 and back to 13
so whilst the hull was being built up, so was the superstructure, how ever i dont have so many phots of this jn progress
the funnel is flat packed and planked, with two brass panels at the base to create the flared shape
on top of the main superstructure the decking is also planked and painted
so
 sorry about lack of photos this was never going to be a build log
 






couple photos of the instructions, for bits i missed

Thanks for the reply. Since this thing was staring at me while waiting for the parts I went back and started beveling the other planks. Ran some dry fits and ended up increasing the garboard plank bevel as well. I'm feeling better about the bevels than I was before, I'll just need to make sure I pay as much time and attention to the port side when I get there.
 
Believe it or not, I still don't have the replacement sheet. Based on tracking, I'm expecting it to show up either today or tomorrow. Not all bad; the waiting has given me time to pick up a few extra tools, put together a more organized workspace, and read up on tips, historical accuracies, etc. I also caved last night from the Model Expo sales and ordered the next two boats in the shipwright series (the pram and lobster smack). The kit also came with the dory I'm currently working on so it may be interesting to revisit after founding these skills. I also picked up a non-beginner ship for a pretty good price.
 
Up until now I've been rummaging through a plastic bin to grab tools, leaving them in random spots on the table, on a nearby box, chair or floor. This will help keep me focused on the build, rather than searching for a tool I just set down.

Looking lovely.  I forgot what a beautiful shape this longboat has.  Yours is showing that elegant form very well.

Post 19
Cap rails and frames cont’d
 
Over the past week I have continued to work on the frames and Capping rails, slowly easing myself back into the build.
The starboard side is pared down using the same procedure as before.

4692
For sanding I used 320 grit paper.
 
With the Cap rails down to around 5/32” width the inboard sheer strakes can be fitted. 
These comprise two laser cut planks (1/32” x 5/32”) for each side, a bow section and longer aft section. The sections are pre spiled to take account of the bow round and sheer.
 
Having lost familiarity with the kit contents it took me a while to locate these which are on sheet ‘R’ of the planking sheets.

4725
The bow sections were wetted down and pre-formed around the bow before fitting.

4727

4729

4730
The inboard strakes have now been fitted, one or two spots of char to attend to but this section is nearing completion.
 
There is a bow knee to be fitted and the kit supplies laser cut pieces from cedar.
The kit part was not a good fit on my build requiring too much material removal and/or filler to retain the elegant shape.

4734
I remade the part from Boxwood sheet having taken a template, but even so this will still require some fettlin’ to get the hoped-for razor line fit to the capping rail at the bow.
 
 
B.E.
21/05/2024

Second planking done and sanded. Next will be stern post, a bit of filler then paint
IMG_8348.heic

Rusty,
 
Your work looks awesome! I'm at the stage of sanding the deadwood down and adding the wedges. 
 
I hope whatever was keeping you down is in the rearview mirror. Getting old isn't for the faint of heart. Two days before the Conference, I had some minor surgery and certainly wasn't going to miss that day! Keep up the good work!
 
Best Regards .... Rick

That company would be very very rich! And I would a steady customer. 🤣

If only we could outsource char removal. Hope you’re doing ok. 

Thank you Glenn and Chuck. Also, thanks for the likes!
 
Sorry for the delay getting back but like a lot of us as we age, we start falling apart and have to be put back together. On the mend and all is good, but work will be slow for the next few weeks. Before I went down for repairs, I completed the deadwood and wedges as well as added all the simulated bolts on the keel.
 
Over time I will have a lot of sanding and cleaning char in my future.

You could use machinist squares placed on each side of the frame and set the frame equidistant from the half breath lines on the plan.

Looking very good, Chris.  And please give Marilyn a gentle skritch from Vicky and me and Ballou. 

So there's been work being done. I got the interior completed. I used the wrong stock for the floorboard cleats. Figured that out when I went looking for that piece of wood and started going Hmmmm. Looking at the build it seems they get covered so I'm not going to worry about that and just replace the missing stock. An excuse to go to the hobby store with the intention of only spending $1.00, best intentions and all right?
 
I occasionally get supervised by one of our old cats. This is Marilyn, she's 16 and diabetic and doing great, having the best life.
 
 

 
 
Here is the current state. Transoms finished, mast step installed. I've read a lot of concern about the height of the thwarts and I've also read that in the end it really doesn't matter. So there they are.
 
Rowlock pads (shouldn't those be call Oarlock pads?) are next to be glued.
 

 
 
Thank you for all the encouraging words!
 
Chris
 
 

Hull Planking, cont. .
It seems like forever since my last post. I had some personal matters to attend to amongst a few other things. Anyway, I'm looking forward to getting things back up to speed.
 
I'm working on a tricky part of the hull planking, those cutouts around the gun ports and sweep port lids. I really had to take my time here in order to avoid re-dos. The reveal around the gun ports is somewhere between 1/64"-1/32". A pillar file comes in really handy. It only cuts on one edge thus allowing for clean corner cuts. https://contenti.com/grobet-extra-narrow-pillar-files I use either a "0" and "2" cut.
 
I haven't done any sanding on the planking and as you can see it's a bit of a mess. The red color is Winsor & Newton "Crimson". In the past I would add a bit of Burnt Umber in order to darken the color. The two colors would often separate which I found to be a pain, so I decided to keep it simple this time around.

Mike

Log #86: The Cat Falls & Topgallant Backstays
I continue to pick away at a bunch of outstanding lines and small projects on the model. I tend to work on whatever inspires me in the moment from my list of potential tasks.
 
First up on this list were the topgallant backstays. Now it is not clear to me if these actually would have been fitted on alert and in some logs people have decided to omit them. Steel does include them in the list of ropes, but that is a bit later, but they don’t appear on the hawk and this is another case of Goodwin’s commentary not matching his drawings.
 
In the end I decided to include them as this is the arrangement both the kit plans and Goodwin depict and I have already somewhat committed to following them up to this point. Also I feel the top of the model looks somewhat “naked” if the topgallant stays are not included.

Steel calls for 2 in rope which equates to 0.32mm diameter at our scale. I used 0.35mm rope seized with fly tying thread. The kit depicts these stays simply tied on to the channels. Goodwin is not clear on how they are attached. I decided that I would treat them in a similar manner to the running backstays, just hook them onto the channels.

I also decided that I would start work on the cat falls. Steel calls for 12in double block which equats to 4.8mm at our scale. I decided to use a 5mm block. To make the blocks I scratch built the hooks using the brass pins from the kit and the iron strapping was done with the black paper in the kit.

I then painted all the iron in a similar manner to how I painted the ironwork on the anchor.

The rope is stated to be 3in cir, 0.38mm at our scale. However, I decided to round up to 0.45mm for the rope. I felt the 0.35mm rope looked a bit small compared to the 5mm block and I wanted to differentiate these slightly larger ropes from the other smaller ones near them.

I have not decided quite yet where to tie off the cat falls so for the moment I have it wrapped around one of the posts for the swivel guns.
 
And here is the current state of affairs (taken before I attached the cat falls).

Are you going to make your own carvings?

I'm looking forward to seeing you build this. I'm still plugging away on the Revenue Cutter but, like you, I ordered it today, too. It's too nice of a thing to pass up!

A short update. I glued the upper parts of the lower apron apron together. I still need to shape them. I also removed the lower apron part from its sacrificial wood piece (I stuck it back on with some double sided tape) and tested it against my keel. I noted there is a gap between the part and the rabbet strip. Not sure why, so that's something I need to figure out. I think it could be the cedar strip behind the laser cut rabbet strip is still a little too thick but I'm not sure because I did thin it down a bit.
 

I am fairly new to this also and started with the Model expo ship shipwright series. A series of 3 boats each a little more complex. They can be bought as a set or individually, They have a plan if you build the first (Grand Banks Dory) and send them a picture of it you will get full credit for your next build. I had a lot of fun with these kits and I think you learn a lot going from one to the other.
 
https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-Shipwright-3-Kit-Combo-Series_p_5465.html
 
Rob

I rounded the edges of the planks on my pram, but I think either way looks good. It is more personal preference. If you want a brass skeg on the bottom, I would use a thin brass strip and attach it after you paint. I would use CA to attach it in place.
Your pram looks amazing so far. I also had the transom knee hanging in space, don't feel alone!
 
Rob

Here we go on the next build the Sailing Pram. This is my second ship build. So far I am up to cleaning up the outside of the hull. I figured it was a good place to get the log started, plus I have some questions.
 
This kit certainly has you up your game. You've got keep a close eye on many things for it to stay true. 
 
Let's start with a picture of the transom. I was a little mixed up because the knee on the aft transom reaches higher up than it does in the photos. I checked some build logs and they matched mine so I moved on.
 

 
Getting everything cleaned up and ready to plank. I didn't have a lot of confidence in the the frames staying square so I added some supports. The transom mount on the base also allowed it to rotate a little so I added the other support you see in the front right of the photo. I don't have a photo of it but drilling the hole in the bow transom knee went well. I started a little smaller and slowly. It came out clean but it's just a tiny bit off center. Darn close though, I'm happy with it.
 

 
 
Lining up the center plank.
 

 
Cutting the sloping rabbet on the back of the plank for the fit at the transom. That was an exercise for sure. Tried many methods, files, sandpaper, finally resorted to more or less "shaving" off the bevel with a sharp #11 blade. And the instructions say 1/3 of the thickness of the board, Hahaha. I went a little deeper because of the overhang, no point in the end being 1/3 deep if it gets trimmed off and farther back it's not quite as deep. That's why it's a little deeper. They did improve the more I did!
 

 
 
Somehow when sanding the bevel on the aft transom I lowered the height of the notch at the center so after the center plank was attached the transom knee was hanging in the air. I added a sliver of wood underneath neat after tracing the shape of the spare transom knee they provided. It should look ok after some cleaning up.
 

 
 
Planking...
 
My notes on planking. This boat planks up slowly. Getting the planks where they are supposed to go and keeping the hull flat on the forms and the transoms level with the board is a bunch to pay attention to. At least with me, once I've got something clamped up, I'm temped to start bending the other side. DON'T do it. Once you get it set and good. Leave it alone to dry, don't risk twisting it or lowering the joint on the transom etc. The Dory was different from this one as it was getting glued to the forms, so the farther you went, the stronger it got. This hull is only relying on that bevel glued to the next plank to hold together. As you move up it tries to lift off of the frames, keep checking underneath to make sure it's still seated on the forms. So take your time and be patient. Let it dry before removing rubber bands and clamps.
That also brings up the point of make sure your bevels make good joints. Dry fit the planks and use a straight edge on the forms to see how well the bevel matches up and clean it up accordingly.
 

 
 
Here's a note for anyone starting this build. After I removed the hull from the frame I noticed char on the inside. I was pretty sure I had cleaned up most of the char and then I realized it was transferred from the frames. So sand that char off also just be careful not the change the shape. It will save you the hassle of cleaning it up later.
There was also some light dents from holding it on the frames that I'm taking care of with a little water.
 

 
Here is the outside of the hull getting some sanding. I'm pretty happy with the spacing and true-ness of it all. The joints at the transom are not too bad. I'd love to hear opinions and constructive criticism on how to make things better.
 

 
 
Some final questions.-- How should the edges of the planks on the bottom be handled? Should they be left square or rounded over? 
 
The instructions mention that sometimes the skeg has a protective brass cover on it. I think that could look nice. Can anyone direct me to on details on that?
 
Thanks for any help and suggestions!

Chris
 
 

Slight rounding of all corners on a boat are appropriate.
 
You are dong a very nice job on the model so far.

what kind of wax did you use? are you sure its the wax?
 
ive never seen anything like that, aside an old dusty ship ive ignored for 30 years.
 
dont flame it. i can picture you blow torching it to ashes.
 
maybe put it in a warm place or in the sun the run a brush over the lines. another thought, perhaps using a solvent on a soft brush run over each line that can remelt the wax?
 
 

Perhaps if you go over the lines with a brush using diluted white glue or clear/matte acrylic it will make it look a lot better.
I would dilute about 4 to 1..
 
Your model looks really great for a first time build.

Model is finally finished, a friend photographer made real good pictures so when I got them I will post.