Ryland Craze

good evening everyone
thank you for comments and likes
 
day 129-3 copper plating done
well that was an enjoyable couple of weeks, 

Internal Bulwark planking completed, now to pack her up and get ready for the move.
 
 

The paper I guess. I didn't know there was fabric.
I talked to Bluejacket where I bought it and they suggested steam ironing it between two layers of fabric. I tried that and it worked pretty well. Enough so that when painted the creases pretty much disappeared.

S t u n n i n g  build, there, Jason. Very well done indeed. Congratulations.

Thank you for the suggestion, I heard about Solvaset, but don't have any, but other possibly stronger setting agents than Micro Sol. I think the Micro Sol will be sufficient and I will apply several coats first, before switching to hotter agents. I really don't want to damage the clear canopy, there is no respraying, if something goes wrong .
 
Cheers Rob

Thank you Mark, until now everything turned out ok. My major concern in the moment is the front wheel strut. I hope it holds the hefty weight of the Arado.

Cheers Rob

The canopy is looking great just as it is now.  I hope the rest of the work on it goes well.

Progress is slowly, as there is not much bench time and I started another in between project, but I finished the underside of the Arado, adding pitot tub, antenna, the parachute release ropes for the starting rockets, steering horns, ... I also touched up the underside color, where necessary. 


 
Flipped to the other side, I started decaling the canopy framing with the supplied rivet decal strips, a task, I wasn't looking forward to. I don't like to work on canopies, but the Arado needed it all, sawing, sanding, painting, masking, gluing, drilling, in other words, many ways to potentially damage the canopy. Luckily this was not the case and the decals behaved mostly well, some, I hope to lay down better with following coats of Micro Sol, fingers crossed. The framing isn't finalized, which will be done, after the decals have thoroughly dried.
 

 

 
Cheers Rob

Thanks for looking in and the likes.
And it is just what Mustafa is saying.....a lot of scratch.
So i'm going out of my comfort zone 🙂
 
The filler blocks are on it.
At the bow I have make a little reinforcement for the knighthead and a few other small frames.
At the stern i don't know if it is good.
I can not make it more to the end otherwise i have problems with the bearding line.
I try to look at other builds but can not find a good picture of that.
So I hope I have no problems when ( somewhere this year) i start with the planking.
First finishing the bow....
 
Sjors
 
 

Always a joy to check in on your build log.   Don't know if you have seen them , but there have been a couple recent posts here at MSW on diminishing the thickness of the wales as it approaches the rabbet.  Most modelers are unaware of this feature, but it is something to consider.   Your choice of course, but maybe something to think about.
Allan

As to the rotary tool: I would rather look for something with collets; they are less bulky and unless you get something really cheapo with brass collets, their concentricity is much better than that of a chuck.
 
I would also add one or two pin-vises to the list, to hold small parts, but also to hold pins for various operations and small drills.
 
Plus drills, of course. Go for HSS, rather than carbide. Carbide breaks easily when hand-drilling - they are made for drill-stands or milling machines.
 
And perhaps a small archimedean drill, the size of a pin-vise. It is more sensitive and less bulky than a rotary tool for drilling holes < 1 mm.
 
For the rotary tool you may also want a set of carbon-steel and/or diamond burrs with 2.34 mm shaft. They come at moderate prices in sets of different shape and size. As your needs develop, you can upgrade. They wear out anyway over time.
 
For the tweezers, it is better not to buy on-line - one has to check how well the points close and how stiff they are. Bad tweezers can be very frustrating. A good pair, treated well, can last for decades of modelling. My favourite pair still in daily use was bought in 1987 ...

Robert, 
 
Thanks for the great insight. I have definitely read that cautionary tale and understand how things can go, as with anything we do in life. I chose the lady nelson (1:64) because the look and history appelaed to me, and it seems far more manageable, relatively speaking, than a Vicory, Constitution, etc., though that goes without saying. I know I have my work cut out for me, but I'm in no hurry. I'm also not expecting it to go as planned 😅 
 
The tools and supplies you recommended are great, and for that I thank you. I have lots of painters tape, but will add the others to the list. 
 
Cheers, and thanks for taking time to answer 
 
Chris
 
 

Greetings and welcome aboard.
 
If it's the first model you have built, you may want to review this thread:
 
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13703-for-beginners-a-cautionary-tale/page/8/#comment-977787
 
The recommendation from above (short version) start small to build your skills.  (Be honest with yourself to avoid frustration down the road.)
 
As for tools it depends on the model and scale you plan to build. The list you have is a good start for basic tool kits.  You could also review some starter tool kits like this one to see what you might want to consider.  (Those kits may or may not have things you really need.)
 
You may need smaller clips and maybe larger.   
 
Tape (painter's tape) proves useful to me for test fitting and holding things in place temporarily (as with test fitting, holding things as glue cures, and of course, to help with masking off areas during the painting process. 
 
I'd suggest some type of 90 degree square (machinist square).  I'd suggest at least two to square up two faces and allow you to work on more than one frame/bulkhead.  When building plank-on-bulkhead or plank-on-frames, getting the frames set properly is critical.  Some models give you a building rig of some type.  However, I have found it a good idea to be sure you check they are square.  Look at Micromark and Model Expo for these  while shopping.  You can find different price points.  Find what your budget can stand. 
 
Tweezers!  Be sure to have a couple of different sizes with self-locking in the mix.  There's some 'kits' that have a selection of tweezers that might be a good start until you figure out which type works best for  you.  
 
As to glue/adhesives, again, a lot depends on your model, how things fit, how fast parts need to set, etc.  Also, if you plan on using photoetched parts, plastic, and different materials ,may require different types of glue.  
 
I'll leave room for others to join in with their list.  
 
As you will likely find with this thread, you will get a lot of opinions and ideas.  
 
Good luck.  Keep us posted with a build log when you start. 
 

You're still better giving it an initial polish with 0000 steel wool before allowing to age so that it ages evenly. If you leave greasy fingerprints, they will be seen in the final finish as the acidic residues leave actual fingerprints on the thin copper tape.

im going to let it do its own thing for now, and see what its like later on in the build, it is tarnishing much quicker than plates do

day 128-3
hope to complete this task tomorrow

Thanks, Rusty, I really appreciate it, especially since your Winnie really sets the standard on how to build her - yours is beautifully done!
 
Don

Thanks Bob,
 
I had no idea that these things existed.   With nerapathy in both hands and consequent loss of grip strength I am constantly dropping nuts, bolts, and washers
 
Roger

I use them in the shop too Bob.

At the risk of thread drift, I'll mention that I've found the cheap and readily available magnetic dishes used by auto mechanics to hold small parts are really very handy around the shop. I've got four of them here and there and I try to keep in the habit of using them to hold nuts, bolts, screws, and the like whenever I'm working on taking things apart and the like. They've saved me tons of time that otherwise would have been spent on my hands and knees searching for parts that went walkabout of their own accord. I can't bring myself to criticize a single thing about my Byrnes tools, but I'll "mention in passing" that using them often entails the removal of small grub screws and tiny flathead bolts which make having the factory "replacement parts set" on hand reassuring. 
 
Three bucks from Harbor Freight: 4" Magnetic Parts Tray (harborfreight.com)
 
 

No update but something else
When i take a look at the other Conny’s ,there is a difference with mine.
I see parts that i can not find….
I have no deck so the planks are going on the frames and at the bow i’ll be missing some lasercut parts.
Anja has found why.
It’s a kit of 15 years old!
It’s semy scratch. 🥲
So more difficult for me but i still will do my best.
I hope to show you tomorrow  a little progress.
The filler blocks at the stern and bow.
 
Sjors

The false keel is together and the frames are in it
 
 
 

I got this kit from Børge.
Børge is a member of this forum and built the Dragon.

His wish was always to build the Constitution one day.
Due to illness, he is no longer able to build.
A few weeks ago we visited him and his wife in Norway and he gave me this kit and asked me to build it.
I am very happy to comply with this.
As a result, the Victory and Duyfken are on hold until the Constitution is finished.
I'm going to do my best to build a beautiful ship.
My guide for this build will be the build log from Tom aka usedtosail.
 
Sjors

Well, this may not help.
I use the zero clearance plate all the time and use the micro meter stop often enough. It took a bit of getting used to but is nice. I also have the extended fence. 90 tooth / .03 slitting blade is about all I use.