Ryland Craze

Thank you, James.
I won't guess, but in two weeks the first one will be ready for a photo on a box.
Then we will make the changes that we identified during the test build and we will assemble another model - the control assembly.

Test assembly of a new kit
MK0304 "42ft launch rigged Yawl with a 24-pound carronade (1841).   (in russian documents - rigged as Plymouth`s boat)
Scale 1: 48
 
length - 498.5 mm (hull - 267mm),
width - 80 mm,
height - 351 mm
one 24-pd. carronade
Material - pear
265 parts have already been assembled.
To be continued...
A few photos of the previous stages

It has taken me awhile to get to this point. Some days only one bulkhead got placed. I settled on Gorilla wood glue because it dissolves nicely to fix poor placement. 
These are the tools I used to align the bulkheads. It's as good as I can do. Some bulkheads fit well right off others not so swell.
Next up will be a scheme to support the bulkheads for ticking and fairing. 

Here is the updated drawing for the lantern..

 
And a look at the Amazon stern.  Which is beautiful.   Note it has three lanterns but the Winnie only has one.

In comparison to my simplified version.  How the heck did they make this stuff way back then?
 

 

Well done! I know it was a small size change, but it looks a lot better as it sits now.  I'm still not sure how I'll feel drilling through that carving - but fortunately its a really long time for me before it's an issue. The real question "is the candle real?" 😄
 

Well uh yupp!!!  I decided to make an entirely new lantern.  I tweaked it yet again.  There were two things bugging me.  Not that I wasnt happy with the old one but I know I would see those two issues for eternity.
 
SO first I reduced the overall diameter.  The heght was fine.  But it was a bit to fat for my tastes.  I reduced it to 95% of what it was.  Just a wee bit.  In addition I reworked the design to move the vent on the roof aft slightly.  Previously it was in the center of the hex.  That is incorrect and kept bugging me.  The vent should be on the same diagonal as the aft edge or main axis of the lantern.
 
That was challenging to design but building it is no different.
 
Here are some photos of the revises lantern which to my eye looks more to scale and better.  I hope you agree although it may difficult to see such small changes.   I am my own worst enemy with this stuff.  Its also higher on the transom as we spoke about.  I used the contemporary models of Amazon and the princess Royal to get a good sense of the height.  The door can easily swing open to service the lantern and its easily accessible. It takes a good full day to make this lantern and mount it.  Although much quicker this last time around.  I have made six in all.  There are a lot of failures you guys dont see.
 



 
 

Thanks you all!
 
I've been catching up on areas of the ship that were not completed earlier. The Q-gallery windows where on hold to avoid damage or dust collection. The remaining large guns due to my just being lazy. Anyway, here are some photos along with a few updates to chapter ten. After I drill the holes for the pinned QD guns I will finish up the upper rail on the QD.






Mike

I decided to miter the bands in front of the false stem. 
Having sanded the bands and chiseled the frame tops, I installed the gunwales next. 

I'll jump on this bandwagon also.  I have had most of Jim's tools for many, many years.  Over that time the tools have been reliable, accurate and safe to use.  The few issues I have had were quickly sorted and parts sent when necessary, much appreciated noting I live on the other side of the world
 
cheers, and many thanks Jim and Donna
 
Pat

Quite simply the best customer service ever  - when I decided to have my table saw altered to have the larger table I asked Jim if he could please get it back to me in the UK ASAP.  I received it back about 3 weeks later so that I could carry on building and at that time we were all in lockdown due to covid.  Jim and Donna sent it to me at their own expense and only asked for payment 2 weeks after I had received it back.  Now thats real trust and I could not thank them enough!

Thanks David, much appreciated, although having just caught up with your Duchess log I think you're being unduly modest!
 
Machine tools can certainly help make jobs easier and quicker but careful use of hand tools can usually achieve the same end result and often with at least as much satisfaction. That mast head in your last post looks absolutely fine to me. Having said that, I love tools and asking a tool-o-holic like me which is my favorite is like asking me to name my favorite child*. Each has it's place, and most can be used for other jobs around the house. I've used the Byrnes saw to make picture frames and the larger mill and lathe to make plumbing parts that I couldn't find in the shops (always good selling points when trying to persuade the holder of the purse strings that I need another new 'toy'!).
 
(* Janet, but don't tell the other two)** 
 
A good table saw is indispensable if you want to cut your own timber and the Byrnes is certainly the class leader. However I still hang on to my old Preac for really fine jobs. Sadly the Preac company is now defunct, but if you ever see one on the second hand market I'd snap it up if I were you. Anyway, a good table saw would have to be the first serious purchase for me (I'm not counting Dremel-type drill tools as they're relatively modestly priced and I assume we're talking significant investments?). 
 
However the one tool I'd probably shed the most tears over if you took it away from me would be the Proxxon micro mill, purely because it has allowed me to tackle jobs I simply couldn't do before and has thereby greatly enhanced my enjoyment of the hobby. This was especially true when I built models by firms other than Vanguard and Syren and had to remake lots of out-of-scale and inaccurate parts. Just to give one example, kit ladders usually look far too chunky to me. The micro mill allowed me to make my own, being accurate enough to cut a series of precisely spaced slots 0.5mm wide and 0.5mm deep in 1.0mm thick timber to fit the steps. If you look round the site you'll find lots of examples of people putting the mill to good use.
 
Of course these are just my views - I expect other people would have different choices. The best advice I can give is don't just buy a tool because it seems like a good idea; wait until you've got a real need for a particular machine then do your research and go for the best you can afford based on that research. For example I didn't go for a wood lathe until I decided to make my own masts and yards from square stock and wanted to be able to shape them more quickly and accurately.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Derek
 
** Janet is a pseudonym 😬
 
 

For beveling the planks, I assembled a jig with sand paper on the slopped piece. The slope was supposed to be 45 degrees but is a closer to 40.  The sand paper stopped about 2 mm from the deck so that I didn’t sand the entire side with a bevel. 
Clamped to my desk, I would then use the desk as a flat surface to sand the planks. 
I cut a piece for my false stem from the original sheet that held the stem. I then used my jig to sand a bevel on both sides making it close to triangular and then glued it to the bow. Then I sanded the it until it was flushed with the planks. 

Side cleats are on and seat risers are installed. After installing them, I had the thought that I may have wanted to leave them off for painting. It was a light glue job so I could remove them but then I would risk losing the score marks that help with alignment so I will leave them at least until I apply spray primer.  
My bands are bent but I am pausing before attaching to figure out how they should meet at the bow/stem. A basic butt would be the easiest but a mitered butt would look better; however I am not sure it is will be noticeable one painted. Although not stated in the instructions, the photos don’t show if the bands warp around in front of the false stem or if they terminate abeam the stem. 

Started second planking and have varnished planing on wales and lining them with planking - needs a second rub down and varnish yet. Enjoying this bit, ice chocks sanded and sanded and sanded, almost there. Have worked a lot more on the various cut outs to square up corners and straighten lines, slowly slowly to get it right. Have trialled dry fitted bow sprit and keel and all looks Ok.

Thank you for the warm welcomes.

Next the decals, then panel details and weathering.
 
 

Good Morning Everyone. Thanks Guys for the support. Here is my library. RIGGING by Lennarth Petersson was actually the most help for the LN. the Shop Notes from the NRG is a pretty cool reference, but it is very broad, not just rigging. The others including Steel’s are for studying and learning anything and everything about wooden sailing vessels from that period in history. As I have mentioned before, it really depends on what each model maker in this hobby is after. Myself, I prefer pictures and photos, so I know what goes where. 😁
 

Thursday evening... rigging coming along as best I could hope for on this first build. Up next, middle yard. I'll save the detail photos for completion, these are just build updates. 😁
 
 
d

Throat halyard, peak halyard and main sheet
Instructions were pretty clear, but I should have looked ahead and figured out where these blocks with the eyes go first and it would have saved me some extra work. Lines are not in permanently yet so I can tighten the and adjust them. Instructions say not to glue in the mast and use the stays to hold it in position, but I am not sure how well that is going to work. 
 

Stays
 
The turnbuckles that are supplied have holes that are too small for the 0.7 mm line and the hooks on the opposite ends are also pretty small. I tried widening the hole in one with a broach but it was too delicate after I widened the hole and it  broke. Tied using a loop of 0.4mm to connect them to the loop on the larger line (not very ship shape I think) but it was difficult to get the jib stay tight that way.  I think I will try it again. 
 

 

Standing Rigging
This was harder than I thought it would be. As per the instructions, I did not glue in the mast. Using small alligator clips on the lines, I think I was able to get the tension on the back stays balanced so the mast was vertical. I bought 0.55 mm black line which fit the supplied turnbuckles much better. It would have been a bit easier to attach the turnbuckles if had made the holes in the chainplates closer to the edge as the hooks on the turnbuckles are very small. I had to use epoxy on one to get it into position.  On to the jib sail. 
 

MAGNIFICENT

The lantern is a masterpiece of its own! You have a wonderful model there . . . !
 
Thomas

Wow, that is something and the half Chuck! Looks fantastic. Bravo

Hi Chris and welcome to Model Ship World.  It sounds like you have a close relationship with your father.  We are glad to have you as a member.  Are you a ship modeler or just wanting to get started is this hobby?

Chris, 
A warm