Ryland Craze

Quarterdeck planked and first coat of varnish.  Three coats planned.
 
Regards,
David

Today I sanded the bevels on the bottom planks, then soaked them and bent them, using the molds on the building board.The instructions say to let them dry overnight. I will behave my self and resist the temptation to wait a few hours and move on. It's cool and raining here today, and drying out may take a bit longer. 
 
I practiced cutting the rabbets needed for some of the other planks on a piece of scrap with a chisel blade . I need more practice!
 

 
 
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Thank you all for the likes and comments!!
After finishing the bulkheads, I continued with the deck beams, knees and fittings, wich is great fun to do. Everything comes together now, and you get an impression, how the model will look, once finished. 
I have this idea of a photo from the main deck under the quarter deck with a little camera, if that is possible some day. So I painted the beams and knees from the underside, to  have it all in color, .
Here are photos from the current stage of the building:
 

 

 

 

 
I will clean the top side of the deck beams once they are all finished. The numbers on the knees will be covered by the planking later on. 
 
Matthias

Got new power connectors on my ESC, now matching the battery. 
But also new motors 35T instead of the 80T.

Oh boy, the previous pictures are so clean......
Experimenting with electronics and with that layout it's suddenly a mess.
But again, it will all come down to me since there is no instructions or how-to.
Batteries are not that heavy but still I like to get in the center of gravity.
This type of battery with a 80t - 540 motor will provide about 12k rpm with the three wing propeller.
This will be a dual setup. The wood base is not part of the setup anymore.

 

With only a primer layer and a first coat of paint, she got a second coat today.
Only one side of upper hull got the coat.
The paint I am using for upper part is Krylon Gloss Smoke Grey. Now this is where the paint got interesting since it changed its character.
It's not Glossy, but rather semi-gloss and also slightly darker. Since there aren't any color picture Äran , I am going on pure judgement from black and white picture to get her somewhat okay.

Considering she will be an RC model, the detailing will not be the most essential part to begin with........ yet.
I want to get her maiden voyage before heavy detailing will be attached.
Below are the ten vents painted and drying, ready for the matte coating.
The paint work on an early 20th century ship was rather boring, especially when nations learned how to camouflage their ships.
Äran was repainted several times during her life span.
This is a simple paint job her first years.
I did learn she had a deep green color below waterline.

 
Learning the new technology with RC and computer radios (I am an old schooler - Sweden with 27Mhz band and .40 engines) plus combining two electrical motors for drive is a new area for me.

I have been moving forward with my Aran,
A lot of details and parts has been added or dry-fitted.
She now has a painted hull along with a simulated wood deck, painted superstructures.
Oh, here is a rendered picture of her stranded on dry land.

 
other pictures:

 

As I mentioned in the "What did you receive today?" I mentioned about a ship I wanted to have in my yard.
This ship is a Swedish first class coastal defence ship, with keel laid in 1899 and launched 14 August 1901, one year later she was commissioned. 
 
The name is HSwMS Äran ( Swedish for "Honor")
 
Here is the stats of her:
 
Length: 87.5 m (287 ft 1 in) Beam: 15 m (49 ft 3 in) Draught: 5.3 m (17 ft 5 in) Propulsion: Steam triple-expansion, 2 screws, 7,400 shp (5,500 kW) Speed: 17 knots (31 km/h) Crew: 301 Armament: 2 × 210 mm (8.2 in) m/98 6 × 152 mm (6 in) m/98 10 × 57 mm m/89B (plus two 37 mm guns on smaller craft) 4 × 90 cm searchlights m/00 2 × 450 mm torpedo tubes Armor: Side belt 175 mm (7 in) Turrets 125–190 mm (5–7 in) Deck 25 mm (0.98 in) Conning tower 200 mm (8 in)  
She saw two world wars but did not participate.
Decommissioned 16 June 1947 and sold for scrap in 1961.
Äran was one of four ships built, the other names was Wasa, Tapperheten (Bravery) and Manligheten ( Masculinity).
There are not that many pictures available. I have contacted the Swedish Marine Museum and they have very little information as well.
 
Here is a color picture of Äran steaming through the Swedish archipelago.

 
Now some picture of the build.
She has a total length of 4ft. (1:192 scale)
She will also be remote controlled - most of the parts are 3d printed.
I have some projects ahead of me, learning how to create my own PE parts and other details, not printed.
 
More picture of the parts will follow.

 



 
 
 

Trying to get the electronics in place. It is not easy, the cables for the switches on the ESC had to be extended.
The servo cable as well, but that was easier. I still haven't decided on the Tx/Rx brand. I ordered a system from HobbyKing but was on backorder until late February. So, I canceled the order. Any ideas of other systems are welcome.

I actually began building this model in 1978 but it's spent most of the time since then languishing in a box packed with Styrofoam peanuts
as I moved around the country. Now it's complete at last freeing me up to finish other incomplete ships. My apologies for the mediocre photos.
 
Best Regards,
Gary

Agree, that engine would take a bit of work to horse around an 18" curve, 21" would be better or layout a 24" in flex track... it should cruise around a 24"....

Thanks, all!
 
I’m still Collecting information.  This is a long term project. It looks like fun.

You can also buy 36 inch lengths of HO flexible track and sections of cork roadbed instead of individual pieces of track. There are also electric power clip you can clip onto the track from under the ties to provide electric power.  As Ken says check out your LHS for advice and sources.  That engine wants a wide radius curve, flex track may be a better choice that fixed radius sectional track for getting and acceptable curve. 
 
Walthers in Milwaukee is a great source for Model Railroad stuff, I think they still print a hardcopy catalog which you can order, or use their online catalog. They've been a major supplier for decades.

Yeah that's one way, but I know your not going to be able to or be satisfied just leaving it on a bare track... It needs to run in it's world.... The rest depends on it's age, date of manufacture and such... an HO scale engine of that size in DCC would command a hefty price tag so I would suspect it is just a simple HO engine from before the DCC era... In other words no sound... Still a great purchase... As far as reconfiguring it's scheme, the tender's shell should come off by just removing two screws through the frame underneath, (heck it may even be just snapped on) and at that point it's just like refinishing any plastic model... Which I know you can do...
 
Oh yeah, to run it open is simple, you need a complete circuit of track, and a dc power controller is all.... on, faster, slower, off.. turn the knob the other direction for the same in reverse.... Fairly inexpensive... power comes thru one rail and the electrical circuit is completed thru the opposite rail...  Configuration for more is a very DEEP, DEEP subject though...
 
If it is DCC, it gets a lot more complicated and involved...
 
Take the plunge down the rabbit hole, you won't regret it...

Roger I think Ken is your man,     I have dabbled  many many many years ago in railway sets, but I think its down to you  how far  you want to go,  how much immagination you  have and how deep your pockets are,   I would imagine  raliways are like a rabbit  hole.
 
OC.

Ok model railroaders, help me out.
 
I received the Rivarossi Mallet 2-8-8-2 locomotive today.  I have wanted to own a Mallet ever since seeing the one in the Henry Ford Museum years ago. This interest was only enhanced when I moved to Duluth as they, and their even larger brothers the Yellowstones hauled iron ore from the Mesabe Range mines to the ore docks in the Duluth Harbor.  While browsing on EBay I found this one at what I considered to be a reasonable “buy it now” price.
 
So, what’s the problem?
 
I don’t have an HO layout and know nothing about HO model railroads.  My last experience was Lionel over 65 years ago.  This was, for me a completely frivolous purchase.  I have a couple of ideas:
 
Buy 3 ft of track, ore cars, and a caboose finish all in DM&IR colors and leave it as a static display.  How do I refinish the “Pennsylvania” tender without damaging it?
 
Same as above, except make a bare bones out and back layout along one wall of my basement/ man cave.  No scenery, I just get to watch it run.  As this came without paperwork, I have no idea how to make it run or if it can be rigged with sound.
 
Comments Appreciated!!
 
Roger
 

 
 

Interesting to see what they had then and considered ideal and what we have now.   But then, our tools are more sized according to our needs and some magazines ideal workshop.  Yes, advertisors did and do play a part in those publications.  Last time I saw a Popular Mechanics with their articles about "must have" tools proved that.
 
Come to think of it, we modelers see similar things about "must have" tools on a regular basis.
 
As for the Shopsmith... my dad always wanted one and when he retired, we kids bought him one.  He loved it and made a lot wonderful things on it.  My youngest brother has it now and uses it a lot for his custom furniture business.  

It is sobering to see the sorts of tools that were available back then.  I am sure that many of the specific choices were determined by the magazine's advertising department.  I began this about ten years later and it helps make clear why I made some of the choices that I did.  Choices that my retrospectascope shows were far less than ideal.  
 
I remember that a Shopsmith was considered a big deal by some back then.  I have never seen one in person, but I worked for someone who had one.  My impression from back then is that it did a fairly wide variety of jobs.  None all that well, and the time necessary to reconfigure it was significant as well as being a source of frustration.   I suspect that one of its gifts was as an inspiration for later designers of single purpose machines with a reasonable footprint.  
 
A three wheel bandsaw is an awful, awful design,  I wonder if their existence was because the two wheel models of the time were huge and expensive monsters? 
 
One machine that we do not have at a modeler's scale size is a crosscut with horizontal rather than chop blade movement.  When needed, it would be handy to have.  But the reality is that the few times that it would be needed could never justify either the money spent for it or the bench space it would take up.
 
In photo #22 - the philosophy behind the function of the Belsaw machine is just as valid today.  It is to be grateful that we have better ways to do it now.

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i doubt it was very satisfying for those on the receiving end

Still futzing with the rudder.  Prepared all the pintles.  Dry fit with nails.  Used a manicure shaping tool to press in the wood in the rudder cavity to ensure a smooth fit with gudgeons. Looking fairly decent. Will use the rudder as it is to mark the gudgeons placement and get those prepared. 
 
Not sure how everyone else does it…but I really don’t trust myself in this part. But I am determined to ensure I can remove the rudder. 
 

 

 

 

 

 
I could have embedded the pins in the pintles. But I wanted some 'room' to play if things got finicky and the fit too tight/restrictive.  I can always replace the thinner wire with a 20G copper section which would fit perfectly in the pintle. 
 
Moving on…

Hi @niwotwill Will,
 
If you go to post #123 in my log, your questions are directly addressed! 👍🏽
 
 
Hope that helps!  
 
(0.4mm thickness) (1/8” cherry wood sections as sandwich bread 😁 ). Please note the correction.  I'm sure this would work with sheets that are 1/16", but did a quick remeasure and find that sandwich sections (cherry wood) was closer to 1/8'.  Either way...very easy to cut.  One thing to keep in mind is to line up the grain of the wood with the direction of the cut for the strips...cuts much easier I think.

Penciled in the panels, lots of paint required here

So, lots of sanding with more to go. Primer coat on, and trying to find a reference for the tail assembly rigging. 

So glued together and a fair bit of filling will be needed as some idiot didn’t wait for some glue to set on the wooden block I put inside the hull for the brass rod. This will be placed in the back of the baseboard for Seydlitz 

Every Project Gets One BIG Mistake
While I was waiting for the primer to dry I read this post by Piet:
Thank you for catching this Piet. You are absolutely correct -- I interchanged the stern porthole cutouts on the port and starboard sides. There are slight differences in the number of portholes that no one will notice, but to make matters worse I got the starboard side upside down.
 
Explanation
The area with the portholes has three layers: a layer of planks, a plywood layer with the portholes pre-cut, and a matching PE layer. The PE pieces have tiny eyebrows etched over the portholes, but when I lined them up with the ply, the eyebrows ended up between the layers and not on the outside. I overlooked that clue. In fact I got the bow wrong too, but that won't matter much. Here's the port side showing where the ladders go.

I did not realize that all the tiny holes are for ladder rungs. On the port side all the ladders point up. It will be OK.
 

On the starboard side the ladders point down. And so,
 
Deconstruction

 

The PE didn't get too mangled, so I should be able to flip that piece and butter it back into place.