slow2cool

I'll PM you for it, we'll grab the bull by the horns ... give me a minute to write it down

All very interesting but what has this all got to do with cows?
 
On a slightly different topic, I am not good with computers. A lovely lady called Anja who used to be a moderator for the forum used to help me with getting my 'current build' to show under my details and also list my previous builds and gallery. I think a couple of moderators may be watching this build of mine so please, can someone either tell me in very easy language how to do it or, make an offer to do it for me ?

It's not as bad as you think, Roger...  A bit of a  later and....
 
"Consists of: An aggregate produced by a cold milling machine. The machine is used to remove the surface layer of a tarmaced area such as a highway or footpath. The resulting waste is loaded into a lorry and is officially known as Road Planings although many refer to them as Road Scalpings or Road Scrapings."
"Road Planings are not suitable as backfill for drainage trenches due to the high fines content and care must be taken when sourcing them as older tarmac surfaces which have been deep planed may contain tars. The use of Road Planings is generally considered environmentally sound as Bitumen is a natural substance. Using them also reduces pressure on quarried aggregate stocks.
Unfortunately the days of being to obtain Road Scalpings for free have gone as the pressure of the recession on local authorites has resulted in very little resurfacing work be carried out and thus Road Planings are not as abundant as they once were."

Considering the mode of transportation that existed prior to 1900 I wonder what "road scrapings without stones" consisted of.
 
Roger Pellett

For a sealer I experimented with a 50/50 mix of Varathane and mineral spirits.  I worked out pretty good.  
David B

Mike,
 
Quite a destruction you had to lay the deck. I might have planked the entiry thing not conforming to kit, but that would be me. Still you've made a nice job out of it ...
 
A scale cow ...  I would say black and white or tan and white ... probably off white like my Tryumph Dolomite was ...
 
Cheers

Wish to Thank you for sharing this wonderful build with us. Keep the post and pictures coming.

Murphy was an optimist - O'Toole

As I said I have been very tempted to plank the deck. I will see how it turns out because I can always plank on top.
 
My next build obviously just has to be a scale cow !! Now, how on earth do you paint that ?!!!!!

It is probably to let, but on my Chaperon I planked over the etched sheets with 1/16 x 1/8 planks. I did not paint them red though I just stained them.

Mike:
Sounds like you have the problem solved.
 
Roger:
That's interesting - but we would probably need a scale cow!
 
I have to sit down and do a page by page read of both of Bates' books.  Have used them for reference many times reading the relevant parts but you have convinced me that a thorough read is due.
 
Thanks,
Kurt

I love it Roger !!
 
Having done a test, methinks the best option is the sanding sealer, to be done however without shaking the tin! Thing is, sanding sealer contains talc so, if I don't shake it I don't get the talc in my laser cut grooves !! I think it will work but having said that the water and sanding also works but the paint still soaks in a lot and I only bought 30mls not a bucket full ! I have also to say that I do think sanding sealer is wonderful! It smells awful but does a really good job and I did recommend it on another build to someone else with porous wood. Maybe I should listen to my own advice.

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for your likes. I also appreciate your comments, and thoughts regarding my comment about all of the colorful details on the 1/10th. You are all certainly correct.  Jan, Patrick, Peter, thanks for your perspectives.
 
It was wishful thinking on my part – having so missed – even coming close to how the galleries should look.
 
Though the stern is much closer, but Corel’s entire weather deck is too narrow which squeezes stern detailing tighter than it should be.
 
Peter also thanks for you very interesting links. Kind of you to take the time.
 
And EJ_L, B.E., Joe, and Capt. Steve thanks for preferring the “look” of my efforts –cheers ! that is really nice of you to mention this.
 
What I am working on now (not doing fixes)  masts, platforms, carriages and other bits are coming out ok - so far - hmmm. So moving forward will be easier.
 
Again mates, thanks for your always, kind support, thoughts and visits.
 
Cheers

Inventive use of  'bling' MIchael to dress up your Wasa, but I too prefer the look of your model to the 'disneyesque'  1/10th version. still go with what suits your eye.
 
B.E.

It does not seem unreasonable to me to think bright colours were used.
We do have accounts of what pigments were used, they are on display in the museum:
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0b/Vasa_color_pigments.jpg/500px-Vasa_color_pigments.jpg
Unfortunately, some of these pigments fade or darken with age, so tones on surviving sculptures and paintings found elsewhere tend to be duller and/or darker than they would have been originally.

It can be interesting to compare with church carvings.
For example, see Övertorneå church:
http://norrbottensmuseum.se/imagegen.ashx?image=/media/375284/nbovertornea1.jpg

Where incidentally the upper half of a church organ with a facade carved by Mårten Redtmer (who also carved Vasa´s sculptures) survives;
http://www.overtornea.se/Global/Bilder/Kultur%20och%20fritid/Kyrkan%20Orgeln2%20liten.jpg
This organ was located in St Gertrude in Stockholm for 150 years before moved. (Possibly some of the original painting has been gilded over during this time, as gilding became more fashionable than natural colours)
The lower part, also by Redtmer, is located in Hietaniemi church:
http://www.allakartor.se/venue_images_475/58674_37884117.jpg
Perhaps some of the original colours have been restored since the 1770s, when a copy was built and installed in St Gertrude (Tyska Kyrkan).
To me this "new" one looks more golden: 
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e5/Tyska_kyrkan_Orgel_(1).jpg

Cheers,
Peter

Thanks Patrick, I think I can make these two work and am glad to get them done to this point.  They are fussy little buggers to build.

Hi Steve
 
They look great!  Nice and neat planking.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick 

OK, I have managed to get boat number 2 ( life boat ) version 1 finished. I think it's a keeper!  So now I have both boat shells done. Now comes the easy part, adding the detail to the work boat and making a cover for the life boat.

Thank you both for that. Normally I would indeed seal the wood with the sanding sealer but my concern is that it will fill the laser cut plank lines which are not very deep at all. I do like your idea of wetting the surface first Kurt so I am tempted to try a very small area with both methods to see which works best.

Hi Mike,
There are plenty of experts on the site who will be able to advise you better, but If faced with this sort of situation, I would have tried some sanding sealer on a piece of scrap to see if that would help.
I think the trick is to keep it flat with weights.
Looks like have recovered from your difficulties very well. Once painted none of this should show.
Good luck
Regards
Red

Mike:
Looking good.
 
The deck is glued down tight so there is no worry about warping at this point.
 
I airbrush, but this works with brush too.  Wet the wood - dampen the wood is more accurate - let it dry and you will see that it has fuzzed up.  Sand lightly to knock off the fuzz and dampen it again.  Re-sand and then paint.  There might still be a bit of fuzz, but much less.  A very light final sanding will give a smooth surface.  I  use a very worn sponge sanding pad (by 3M) for this.
 
Another way to avoid the soaking in of the paint and fuzzing of the basswood is to apply Shellac to the wood - the Shellac seals the wood.  A very light sanding and then paint. 
 
Kurt

Time for a winge!! I reckon that Model Shipways get their basswood from the same place as Constructo !! Both are horrible, very prone to denting and as absorbent as blotting paper. It just loves to soak up anything like water including paint and then warp in a variety of directions. I suppose if one wants to be precision accurate then mechanical engineering with metal is the answer and this sort of thing is the punishment that those of us who work with wood must put up with.
 
Right, enough of the rant. I have now put the first deck on the hull which proved to be a lot more difficult than I anticipated. To be honest apart from the above I am not sure why it was so awkward but I had the devils own job lining up the four parts required. Anyway, they are now on, very firmly glued (!!!) and the sort of 'dog tooth' joint between the sections filled and re-scored for the imitation planking. To be perfectly honest I would have preferred to plank the deck as I have with others but I am trying to follow the destructions!
 
I don't have an airbrush so I am intending to hand paint the deck with iron oxide coloured paint as suggested but which I have to say is very orange. My main problem is that if I water down the paint it will make the basswood far too soggy and raise the grain far too much. If I use it too thick it will fill in the laser cut plank markings. I have tested on a piece of scrap and the coverage is good and I found if I sanded it afterwards very, very gently that the wood doesn't show too much through and if anything leaves a sort of weathered effect.
 
Any hints or opinions as how to progress gratefully received.
 
Anyway, a couple of photos of the deck.
 
 
 
 

Thank you Zoltan

Hi Paul
             Yes i left them off as it was what he wanted. I would rather leave them off and give him something he likes rather than put them on and tell him he has to have it in a way he doesn't like

Thanks Antony
I didn't add an extra bits all is oob. unless you count changing the breaching rope for some decent stuff   and making my own gun port lids
but nothing was added for extra detail. In fact it got so crowded in there that i left out some of the barrels
 
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