Keith_W

Very nice, Tom! Maybe you should ask them to buy you power tools instead?

Happy birthday Keith!

Neptune, Poseidon, Nij

Thank you Bindy! I will be back in Melbourne in slightly more than a week. I won't be home long though, because I take off for Tasmania shortly afterwards. 

Thanks Bob and Dan. To be honest I think that the photographs flatter the model. I can see all the mistakes, I just make sure that it doesn't show in the photos But if you look carefully, you will find them!
 
Anyway, this will be my last update for a few weeks. Tomorrow, I fly out for work I managed to get started on the rigging, but I had a rather busy evening so I only managed to complete two shrouds.
 

 
I noticed that McKay's book shows both the foremast and mainmast with sheaves, so I installed the sheaves.
 

 
This picture shows rigging thread as supplied by Model Shipways (below) and Artesania Latina (above). Note the MS thread is slightly shiny and has no fuzzies. I suspect that it is synthetic fibre, maybe nylon. In use, it is more difficult to handle than the AL cotton thread - knots want to come apart, and it doesn't form compact, tight knots as easily. But I suspect that in the long run it will look better.
 

 
The bowsprit holder has been painted and installed. McKay shows the bowsprit holder mounted on a plate running down the side of the keel, but I think that my solution looks nicer.
 

 
The bowsprit is secured at the rear end simply by tying it to the foremast.
 

 
This is my method for rigging deadeyes. Again, I have not seen it described in MSW or anywhere else. This method uses no jigs. The major advantage is that it allows you to adjust both length and tension easily and perfectly. This is how:
 
1. Prepare the deadeye thread - CA one end (to make it stiff and easy to pass through holes), and make a stop knot on the other end.
 
2. Loop the upper shroud around a deadeye and secure with an alligator clip.
 
3. Rig the thread through both deadeyes loosely.
 

 
4. When the deadeyes are fully rigged, tension the thread by pulling them one by one through the holes. When fully tensioned, check the tension of the shroud and the length of the deadeye. When checking the tension, also make sure that the rake of the mast is correct AND it has not been pulled laterally. You will come across these possible scenarios:
 
4a. IF the deadeyes are too long AND the tension of the shroud is insufficient, you need to tension the deadeyes more.
 
4b. IF the deadeyes are spaced correctly but the shrouds are insufficiently tensioned, release the crocodile clip and add more tension to the shrouds.
 
4c. IF the shrouds are correctly tensioned but the space between the deadeyes is too long, release the shroud alligator clip and feed back the exact number of mm you need to shorten the deadeyes by. The deadeyes will become slack - re-tension them and they should be the correct length.
 
4d. IF the shrouds are correctly tensioned but the space between the deadeyes is too short, release the shroud alligator clip and pull up the exact number of mm you need to lengthen the deadeyes by. Feed the thread back into the deadeyes to lengthen.
 

 
5. Once you are satisfied with both deadeye spacing and shroud tension, tie a knot under the alligator clip and secure with a dab of white glue.
 

 
6. Complete the seizing.
 

 

 
Looks pretty good doesn't it! I'm going to make this Launch so beautiful that Bligh would have preferred to sail in this thing than that breadfruit carrying ship full of mutinous ingrates!
 
And that's it for now. I have to say good-bye to my wife, my home, and my little boat for a few weeks while I fly out to remote Australia. Well, not so remote - it has a beautiful beach There are worse places to work!
 
(edit) ARGHHHH I forgot to make and install the thwart knees before I Tung Oil'ed the thwarts!!! I can still make them, but ... what glue will stick to Tung Oiled thwarts? CA? PVA? Help please!

Heh, maybe I should say "vacuum cleaner"  
 
I built my very first model without any power tools. All I had was a box cutter, some surgical tools, sandpaper, and a file. And, I did this in a tiny apartment. I managed OK - but if I did not have a vac cleaner, my wife would have killed me! 

Heh, maybe I should say "vacuum cleaner"  
 
I built my very first model without any power tools. All I had was a box cutter, some surgical tools, sandpaper, and a file. And, I did this in a tiny apartment. I managed OK - but if I did not have a vac cleaner, my wife would have killed me! 

Heh, maybe I should say "vacuum cleaner"  
 
I built my very first model without any power tools. All I had was a box cutter, some surgical tools, sandpaper, and a file. And, I did this in a tiny apartment. I managed OK - but if I did not have a vac cleaner, my wife would have killed me! 

You know, your suggestion makes  a lot of sense. I have looked over Chris Watton's thread in great detail, and I think it is worth waiting for. IF the production Amati is anywhere near as good as the prototype, this really will be the ultimate Victory. Her size is impressive, the attention to detail is impressive - down to Chris changing the number of balustrades on the prototype when someone noted that all Victory kits are incorrect, including his. 
 
I even like your suggestion for the Agamemnon. It will be good to build up my skills before attempting the Victory. Owning a Victory has been my dream ever since I saw the original in Portsmouth as a kid. In fact, it was all the wooden models in the museum that fired up my interest in modelling. Waiting another 12 months won't do me any harm. 

All finished. Some shots in my home studio.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
In front of a Viking cross-stitch given to me by my friend's wife more than 10 years ago.
 

 
With my other ship - the HMS Bounty. The scale of both ships is roughly comparable. The Bounty is 1:48, the Viking ship is 1:50.

i can only go with the Caldercraft, as it is the only one i have tried, plenty of build logs around to help you as well
look forward to seeing your progress

All finished. Some shots in my home studio.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
In front of a Viking cross-stitch given to me by my friend's wife more than 10 years ago.
 

 
With my other ship - the HMS Bounty. The scale of both ships is roughly comparable. The Bounty is 1:48, the Viking ship is 1:50.

Caldercraft is the best on the market currently.
 
 
I have the Mamoli 1:90 kit, the instructions aren't so good but the basic skeleton is very solid and the kit can build into something nice. It is smaller which is an advantage and certainly better than the Corel, Constructo and Mantua ~1:98 kits.  That being said the Royal Louis by Mamoli is a much nicer kit.

Hello everyone, I am new here. I am also a jeweler, about 15 years now. Soldering silver and gold jewelry is something i have been doing long time. With silver for example you can't really do a pinpoint soldering. I mean you have to heat up surrounding areas of the spot you are trying to solder together. So I use a larger torch, slightly more oxidized versus gold soldering, where you can do pinpoint soldering. There are different types of solder out there. I stock easy, medium, and hard. For example I use medium and hard for soldering rings, and easy is used for soldering chains and smaller thinner objects that should not be heated too much. I never used the solder/flux mixter or paste. I use liquid flux. First make sure you clean the item you will solder in an ultrasonic machine if you have one, if not, then the least should be done is some concetrated cleaning solution and use an old toothbrush. Then dry and flush the item and a piece of solder. Place the solder belof the item and heat from the top or vice versa. Whichever way you like to do it.
 
But I have read the posts from others and I see everyone does it different. Its all up to you to find the best way that works for you when it comes to soldering. I am still learing things when it comes to that.
 
Its easy, with silver you pretty much have to heat the whole item or at least the majority of the surrounding areas. With gold just the spot you need to solder together.
 
Sorry if i overdid on this

I got the tree from my model train stash. The ornaments are from my wife's cookie decorations. Santa is proving difficult.
 
The new and modified life boats are just visible. Not sure I am happy with the new boat. Make need to try again.
 
Merry Christmas!!
 
Omar

Yes. Go http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-materials-and-tools.php'>here and read Russell Barnes' tutorial on silver soldering. Note that he uses silver solder paste. Apply the paste to your joint, then hit it with a blowtorch. 
 
(edit) the link didn't work, so here it is again: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-materials-and-tools.php

If you want the very best, I would wait for the Amati Victory in 1/64 by our own Chris Watton.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/985-amati-and-chris-watton/

Hi Keith
It's Caldercraft for me. It is a good scale, allowing a lot of extra detail to be added.
It is sold as an 'advanced' kit so the manuals assume a certain level of knowledge.
Having said that I find them comprehensive and easy to follow.
The drawings are very good, 18 full size sheets.
And I have had good response from them on damaged/missing parts
Nick

Hi Keith,
 
Caldercraft wins on all counts. I have heard some criticism of their instructions, but with this forum and experience as a model builder I don't see this as a big problem, common sense and forethought plays a big part. The Mamoli instructions leave a bit to be desired but the wood isn't bad, fittings fair, rigging line I would replace and did. Mamoli also requires a lot more fabricating of parts from wooden stock while Caldercraft parts are largely laser cut so much less work involved there, although still a challenge. Caldercraft fittings are in my opinion excellent and it is the most authentic Victory available at the moment.
Hope this helps.
 
Gary

Are you tired of retensioning those clove hitches in the middle of your shrouds? Or coming next morning to see the last knot you tied is now loose, and since you trimmed it off, you can't do it again?
 
Well... do yourself a favor and go to your neighborhood music store. Yes music!. Get yourself a cake of Rosin. The stuff violinists use to rub their bows with. Are you getting it? That stuff makes the bow "grab" the string and therefore, produce sound. That effect works on your rope the same way, and makes your knots unslippable. (sp?) Guaranteed! Just rub a piece of your thread or rope on it 2 or 3 times and voilá. 
 
If there is choices of hardness, go for the softer one. If you can get the stuff that is actually made from the tree sap, you will have the bonus of the smell!
 
Hope this helps.

I AM DONE !! SHE IS COMPLETED AND LOOKS PRETTY GOOD TO ME. I still have to post the rest of the belay diagrams on this log. I will try and get my hands on a good camera and take a bunch of various photos to post on the completed ship gallery. I am a little sad since she has occupied my every day for over 2 years.
 
Woo Woo !!    

Keith,
I purchased an MF70 last year through Chronos engineering supplies in the UK, even with the freight costs it was still several hundred dollars cheaper than anyone in Australia, I can't vouch for their current price. The service was good and came with tracking. Just needed to swap the plug on the power cord. The machine comes with 3 cutters, some clamps and a set of collets. In addition, I purchased the precision vice, dividing head and the adjustable chuck. The adjustable chuck is ok, not fantastic. Better to stick with the collets wherever possible.The chuck and collets will take drill shanks up to 3mm. I have purchased some additional Kyocera cutters (0.5 - 0.8mm with 3mm shanks) from My Tool Store in Qld. He provides a reasonable service, shipping/delivery is good.
I have used the mill to make some blocks, the dividing head was useful to ream out the ends on some barrels. So far, the MF70 appears to be a useful tool. It is particularly useful if space is a problem, being easy to pack up and store. It is vital to bolt it down on your bench before using.
 
Regards,
Grant.

Hi Keith,
I think if you are wanting a machine that is capable of producing deck fittings etc the MF70 is ideal.If you are wanting a mill to cut the deadwood slots in the keel of a 1/48 first rate then the MF70 is not ideal for that,although it would be possible.I did start my milling thread with the intention of illustrating what can be accomplished with a mill for newcomers like yourself.Unfortunately due to my work load I have not been able to devote as much time as I would like,but I will continue to expand on it.If you want an illustration of what can be made on the MF70,have a look at marsalv's Royal Caroline build.He has some great pictures of work actually being milled and gives a good idea of what you can produce.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

I don't have my protractor with me, but it looks like it's about 25 degrees. If you have a protractor, you can measure it off the screen. This was taken from AOTS: Victory.
 

Thank you for your reply Nigel. My problem is a little like a Catch-22 situation. (1) I don't know what is possible, because (2) I don't know what parts are available, therefore back to (1) I don't know what is possible Hence this thread. 
 
I have been devouring build logs to get an idea what people can make with this machine. So far what attracts me is the precision - a level above what I can do with my humble hand tools. Unfortunately most build logs are rather sketchy about how they achieved the results ... all I can see is "I milled this on my Proxxon" without specifying what cutter they used, how they clamped it down, how they squared it, etc.