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Rick01

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Everything posted by Rick01

  1. Rick01
    Looking good - that inside line at the bow is a bi**h - I had mini clamps every 5mm or so round that section plus additional clamps every 4 cm or so on down the full length of that run! The joggling pattern won't necessarily match any you see here as I found that it was literally a matter of fitting each plank as an individual item and the curve of your edge plank ended up dictating the correct fit. I do love that scarfe joint - beautifully done. Rick
  2. Rick01
    One of the reasons I use .6mm for final planking. I too remember being able to make items with that sort of detail. You'll get even more fun when you plank the deck as you'll learn all about joggling when you fit the decking up to the edge. Rick
  3. Rick01
    Can't help on the serving side of things. eyesight and manipulative abilities mean I'm not quite as dexterous as I used to be so I cheated and haven't served anything. I figure that once in a glass case where you can't get to close no-one will know except me (and now anyone reading this thread). Rick
  4. Rick01
    Colours used were black for standing rigging and natural for running rigging - I'd have liked a slightly more tan for running but the darker stuff was to dark for my liking. Sizes stepped up - .1mm, .25mm, .5mm, 1.00mm. Mainstay was 1.00mm, the balance was .5mm excepting ratlines which were .1mm. Running rigging, mainstay deadeye .5mm, shroud deadeyes .25mm, the balance .1mm Cannon 1.00mm All lashings .1mm of the relevant colour Foot ropes on main spar .5mm ( could have been .1mm in retrospect - these need a very weak solution of pva glue to get them to hang properly). Anchor cable 1.00mm Mainly Amati as supplied with some Caldercraft - but as it's all out of it's original packaging I can't say which is which. Thanks for the comment about my rigging - it has a few faults but don't we all know the bits that we don't like but that no-one else sees!! Rick
  5. Rick01
    I'll have to check what rigging I've used as there was a mix of kit and left-overs from a previous build. I'll also try and break down the colours and sizes used - to some extent it's a visual thing. Rick
  6. Rick01
    Thanks Mark - that does help understand what's going on. I just couldn't see why that would happen. Rick
  7. Rick01
    Basically "Yes" As for exterior hull planking there still seems to be some mystery about minimum lengths but personally I don't see any length shorter than 10ft being used. Rick
  8. Rick01
    No worries - being retired allows me to play around and do a little research. Keeps my mind active and me out of my wife's hair! By the way - love the new tools. Have you seen Chuck's post on the thread for planking? He's got an illustration of the planking used, he hasn't mentioned the length of the cutter but according to NMM it's 67ft + a few inches so 23ft planks would work pretty well. Rick
  9. Rick01
    Back again - been searching through NMM records looking at cutter plans. Like everything else with cutters, gun ports seem to be variable. The nearest I've found is this http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/86169.html with the two forward ports moving up from the deck line and in fact the first port being quite a bit deeper in to the bargain. Given that it is almost impossible to fight a gun at this station unless it is permanently fully run out I would think they would need extra room to load and clean! So although not aesthetically pleasing it is at least feasible. Rick
  10. Rick01
    Thanks Chuck. Rick
  11. Rick01
    Looking back at my build I think I'd have corrected the problem as I built. The deck was down and then I fitted the gunwales using a PVA glue allowing time for adjustments. I've one of those eyes that spots things that don't "sit" right and so i'd have juggled the strips up and down with small clamps until it looked right then allowed it to set. The kit is generally built by first timers and from what I've seen we've been more critical of the build than many people, so short of raising the deck around 1mm at the prow you may need to leave it. There is a lot going on up there so the only people who will know would be us (and anyone following the log).
  12. Rick01
    I'm looking at other builds and it seems that they have also had a similar problem but ignored it! This one is really "off" as are a couple of others I saw. Plans appear to have a similar variance in the gunport height so it must be deliberate and somehow I've "corrected" for this when I fitted the gunwales. I can understand an upwards sweep in the fore section but surely the gunports should follow the deck line ! Rick
  13. Rick01
    I agree that the gunwales from the exterior look perfect on your kit - but as you say when looking at the interior view it seems there is a problem. Not sure if it's the photo but the first gun port seems completely square whereas I'd expect the top and bottom to be angled to match the deck. It's almost as if the deck itself doesn't follow the correct line even though it is pretty obviously correctly fitted. Got me puzzled at the moment as I can't find any faults in your construction. Perhaps looking up a recent build of this cutter and asking the builder if they'd be prepared to measure the various areas - gunwale height, gunports above deck etc. may throw some light on this. Like you I can't envisage gunport heights from deck varying and I'd be tempted to mock up a cannon to see how it sits in each of the ports. I'm off to look at my plans now and see if I can see how this may have happened as I'm totally puzzled at the moment! Rick
  14. Rick01
    OK here's mine (excuse the photo quality - not something I'm good at). Height form deck to top of gunwales 12mm, height of planking above gun port 2mm. If the ports are that far out I'd plank the inside from the deck up to get the correct curvature then re-cut the ports as parallelograms measuring 7mm x 7mm approx. Really sounds as if the original laser cut went very wrong! Hope this makes sense. Rick
  15. Rick01
    My gunwales height doesn't vary across the full length of the ship. Obviously the gunports remain at a constant height above the deck level and (as discussed elsewhere on another build) the ports themselves have the sides perpendicular to the waterline whilst top and bottom are parallel to the deck. I'll try and get a reasonable photo of mine for you and post here later. Rick
  16. Rick01
    Mark - you were commenting on the importing of wood for decks, I'm wondering about minimum lengths of planking for hulls. With something like a 50ft cutter trying to get a good shift pattern on the hull would be quite hard without using lengths down to 10ft (5ft would be nice but I'd think not particularly effective). Rick
  17. Rick01
    In addition to maximum plank length, shift pattern and minimum plank length would need to be looked at I assume. Any basic rules to follow here? Rick
  18. Rick01
    I'm sure you originally wanted to explore building a kit ship and learn through first principles - me going on holiday for a few days is purely a chance to get back to self sufficiency in the build. Rick
  19. Rick01
    I'll follow your 2nd planking with interest as I'm starting a scratch build of a local ship shortly ( topsail schooner Enterprize out of Hobart) and may just try shorter length planks. By the way we may have a little problem in a weeks time. I'm heading up country to Mildura and Lake Mungo so may not be as well off for internet connection - you may well be on your own for a few days but I do think we've covered most of the harder problems that may occur. Sorry can't change my plans as this was arranged before we started on this voyage but I'm sure you'll cope. Rick
  20. Rick01
    That's a question that I've never really considered. What constitutes "proper length" with a cutter? I'd have thought that a 50 ft plank wouldn't have been out of the ordinary during the 18th century. This one is a question for someone like Chuck or someone with more historical knowledge than me. I'd suggest asking it in the Building Framing, Planking section. Don't know that it would be harder - manoeuvring shorter lengths would make life easier in some aspects. Rick
  21. Rick01
    No I did check the plans for the reference first!! With the points that Tony's photos have brought up, it seems that cutters are a pretty individual ship with each shipyard/builder having his own idea as to where and what to place deck fixtures and fittings. Most have the top mast forward of the mainmast and the double bracing for the square sails also is common to the style of rigging. The hand cranks were only fitted where a "drop keel"was fitted see http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/86094.html so you may ignore this completely. Personally I planked the gunwales continuously then cut the ports out as it did help maintain rigidity whilst working on the hull. Hope this all helps. Rick Ps One last suggestion - get the basic hull finished to the point that the painting and decking is done and stop. Then we look closely at the variations for deck furnishings, belaying points, rudder arm, etc. I didn't do this and now have a number of items that really could have been applied better. Pps Cleats - before painting the bulwarks you may want to fit the cleats shown on sheet 4 marked 3 (top left illustration), however I'd put them much nearer the left hand cannon either above or just to the left of the scupper. Fits better with the rigging per Peterssons book.
  22. Rick01
    Don't forget to watch out for the problem with the "wobble" in one of the gunwales you found earlier on! Rick
  23. Rick01
    I think it's all pretty well covered - the counter is a bit fiddly and needs playing with to fit tidily but once that's done final planking should go smoothly. You need to decide if you're going to plank over the cannon ports then reopen or cut sections to fit between. Capping rail - sheet 2 part 45 (bottom right hand corner of the plan). You also now need to contemplate removing the bulkhead tabs, then planking the interior of the gunwales before the decking is laid. If I think of anything else I'll pop it on later today but as of now I'd say you ready to do the final planking. Rick
  24. Rick01
    I think I originally mentioned that if you weren't going to paint the fascia then you should plank it before mounting it, assuming that you'd also plank the exterior! I have planked mine as I don't see the ship builders getting a single slab that large in real life. My thoughts would be to use the black on the section that the rudder pierces if you go with the hull painted in white and the holly for the upper section. This latter has a surround which would look great then in black. However if you go with the natural wood hull then I'd switch the black and white timbers around. Please be aware that I'm not allowed to chose any sort of colour scheme at home and am required to carry a note from my wife if purchasing paint/stains! Just as a refresher - you're using a different thickness timber to for final planking and the capping rail assumes 1mm planking inside and outside the ply gunwales so you will probably need to make some sort of adjustment to the planking thickness on the inside of the gunwales when you get that far. Rick
  25. Rick01
    It'll be like that until you tie the last knot in the last bit of rigging and then you have to decide how you're going to display her! Not withstanding the hiccups along the way I must admit the whole exercise is pretty satisfying. Rick

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