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Rick01

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Everything posted by Rick01

  1. Rick01
    Hi - did have a good relaxing time but it sounds as if you've had it a bit rough between kidney stones and work! Don't push the model if you're not feeling up to it, with planking it's just not worth the risk. I spent 6 months finishing this kit so you're well ahead of things given that I'm retired and could spend a couple of hours a day on it. Rick
  2. Rick01
    Wefalck Chuck used contemporary plans from the NMM site -there are a number available if you search "planking expansion". Rick
  3. Rick01
    Overall it looks good - however the garboard plank should run parallel to the false keel for its full length as you can see in Chuck's model. One or two stealers will then slot in a little higher up the stern but before it flares out. I am back from holiday now so I'm allowed to look in and comment! Rick
  4. Rick01
    Hi - I'm still holidaying - but both times I've been on here it's only because I had to contact home about some stuff and thought I'd drop in quickly to see what I may have done wrong! I'm having fun and it looks as if you've got a nice line for a start on the planking. Rick
  5. Rick01
    Add the fact that the the spacing on the pin rails is wrong etc. If you look back at my photos I've rebuilt the tiller and added a horse behind/above to handle the boom and made my own bilge pumps. Once you get to the deck furnishings it really gets fun. I've just chased all over town to find a free wifi that doesn't tell me this forum isn't a "safe" one so I can try and ensure that you don't start blaming me for any problems that may occur with the final planking which I guessed you'd be starting today. About which - the line you've shown seems to curve up rather steeply to me, with the bow planking it should follow lines nearly parallel to the wales with a slight curve upwards. So once below the wales each plank will have a slight taper. Hopefully someone else will explain this better. You'll get peace and quiet from me for the next 48 hours as I'm heading bush - 35C + and absolutely no mobile coverage all good as long as no breakdowns! Rick
  6. Rick01
    Got internet for a very short while here!! Will try and check in from time to time but no guarantees. The problem I found with gluing short lengths at a time was that I was liable to crack the plank when lifting it slightly to get the next length glued (and getting it exactly positioned in the first place). Rick
  7. Rick01
    My glue choice is water based PVA - I does take some time to grab but is easy to clean up and if you do make a mistake (not likely with you) quite simple to damp down and remove the offending item. Another plus is that diluted it helps fix knot in rigging plus get rope coils to hang convincingly. With clamps it's pretty individual in your choice, I've a collection varying from standard C clamps, spring , assorted sizes of bulldog clips down to toy clothes pegs and a big selection of assorted sizes of rubber bands! Clamping does become a problem when fitting the final few planks on the hull which is where I find the rubber bands do come in useful - those with lego bricks to vary the pressure work pretty well. Decking is so much easier!! Rick
  8. Rick01
    Looking good - that inside line at the bow is a bi**h - I had mini clamps every 5mm or so round that section plus additional clamps every 4 cm or so on down the full length of that run! The joggling pattern won't necessarily match any you see here as I found that it was literally a matter of fitting each plank as an individual item and the curve of your edge plank ended up dictating the correct fit. I do love that scarfe joint - beautifully done. Rick
  9. Rick01
    One of the reasons I use .6mm for final planking. I too remember being able to make items with that sort of detail. You'll get even more fun when you plank the deck as you'll learn all about joggling when you fit the decking up to the edge. Rick
  10. Rick01
    Can't help on the serving side of things. eyesight and manipulative abilities mean I'm not quite as dexterous as I used to be so I cheated and haven't served anything. I figure that once in a glass case where you can't get to close no-one will know except me (and now anyone reading this thread). Rick
  11. Rick01
    Colours used were black for standing rigging and natural for running rigging - I'd have liked a slightly more tan for running but the darker stuff was to dark for my liking. Sizes stepped up - .1mm, .25mm, .5mm, 1.00mm. Mainstay was 1.00mm, the balance was .5mm excepting ratlines which were .1mm. Running rigging, mainstay deadeye .5mm, shroud deadeyes .25mm, the balance .1mm Cannon 1.00mm All lashings .1mm of the relevant colour Foot ropes on main spar .5mm ( could have been .1mm in retrospect - these need a very weak solution of pva glue to get them to hang properly). Anchor cable 1.00mm Mainly Amati as supplied with some Caldercraft - but as it's all out of it's original packaging I can't say which is which. Thanks for the comment about my rigging - it has a few faults but don't we all know the bits that we don't like but that no-one else sees!! Rick
  12. Rick01
    I'll have to check what rigging I've used as there was a mix of kit and left-overs from a previous build. I'll also try and break down the colours and sizes used - to some extent it's a visual thing. Rick
  13. Rick01
    Thanks Mark - that does help understand what's going on. I just couldn't see why that would happen. Rick
  14. Rick01
    Basically "Yes" As for exterior hull planking there still seems to be some mystery about minimum lengths but personally I don't see any length shorter than 10ft being used. Rick
  15. Rick01
    No worries - being retired allows me to play around and do a little research. Keeps my mind active and me out of my wife's hair! By the way - love the new tools. Have you seen Chuck's post on the thread for planking? He's got an illustration of the planking used, he hasn't mentioned the length of the cutter but according to NMM it's 67ft + a few inches so 23ft planks would work pretty well. Rick
  16. Rick01
    Back again - been searching through NMM records looking at cutter plans. Like everything else with cutters, gun ports seem to be variable. The nearest I've found is this http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/86169.html with the two forward ports moving up from the deck line and in fact the first port being quite a bit deeper in to the bargain. Given that it is almost impossible to fight a gun at this station unless it is permanently fully run out I would think they would need extra room to load and clean! So although not aesthetically pleasing it is at least feasible. Rick
  17. Rick01
    Thanks Chuck. Rick
  18. Rick01
    Looking back at my build I think I'd have corrected the problem as I built. The deck was down and then I fitted the gunwales using a PVA glue allowing time for adjustments. I've one of those eyes that spots things that don't "sit" right and so i'd have juggled the strips up and down with small clamps until it looked right then allowed it to set. The kit is generally built by first timers and from what I've seen we've been more critical of the build than many people, so short of raising the deck around 1mm at the prow you may need to leave it. There is a lot going on up there so the only people who will know would be us (and anyone following the log).
  19. Rick01
    I'm looking at other builds and it seems that they have also had a similar problem but ignored it! This one is really "off" as are a couple of others I saw. Plans appear to have a similar variance in the gunport height so it must be deliberate and somehow I've "corrected" for this when I fitted the gunwales. I can understand an upwards sweep in the fore section but surely the gunports should follow the deck line ! Rick
  20. Rick01
    I agree that the gunwales from the exterior look perfect on your kit - but as you say when looking at the interior view it seems there is a problem. Not sure if it's the photo but the first gun port seems completely square whereas I'd expect the top and bottom to be angled to match the deck. It's almost as if the deck itself doesn't follow the correct line even though it is pretty obviously correctly fitted. Got me puzzled at the moment as I can't find any faults in your construction. Perhaps looking up a recent build of this cutter and asking the builder if they'd be prepared to measure the various areas - gunwale height, gunports above deck etc. may throw some light on this. Like you I can't envisage gunport heights from deck varying and I'd be tempted to mock up a cannon to see how it sits in each of the ports. I'm off to look at my plans now and see if I can see how this may have happened as I'm totally puzzled at the moment! Rick
  21. Rick01
    OK here's mine (excuse the photo quality - not something I'm good at). Height form deck to top of gunwales 12mm, height of planking above gun port 2mm. If the ports are that far out I'd plank the inside from the deck up to get the correct curvature then re-cut the ports as parallelograms measuring 7mm x 7mm approx. Really sounds as if the original laser cut went very wrong! Hope this makes sense. Rick
  22. Rick01
    My gunwales height doesn't vary across the full length of the ship. Obviously the gunports remain at a constant height above the deck level and (as discussed elsewhere on another build) the ports themselves have the sides perpendicular to the waterline whilst top and bottom are parallel to the deck. I'll try and get a reasonable photo of mine for you and post here later. Rick
  23. Rick01
    Mark - you were commenting on the importing of wood for decks, I'm wondering about minimum lengths of planking for hulls. With something like a 50ft cutter trying to get a good shift pattern on the hull would be quite hard without using lengths down to 10ft (5ft would be nice but I'd think not particularly effective). Rick
  24. Rick01
    In addition to maximum plank length, shift pattern and minimum plank length would need to be looked at I assume. Any basic rules to follow here? Rick
  25. Rick01
    I'm sure you originally wanted to explore building a kit ship and learn through first principles - me going on holiday for a few days is purely a chance to get back to self sufficiency in the build. Rick

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