Rick01
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Help reading plan
Rick01 replied to Rick01's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Full plan
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Help reading plan
Rick01 replied to Rick01's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Vessel is an 1830 topsail schooner built in Hobart. Profiles as attached. There are no original plans of the schooner but this plan was drawn up by Karl Heinz Marquardt based on drawings of the Topsail Schooner Enterprize and ship building practices common at that time. Length over deck 53', beam 18' 4", draft 10' Hope this helps.
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I'm having a problem understanding a section of a plan for a 1830 topsail schooner. There appears to be an anomaly surrounding the hawse hole for the anchors. From the attachecopy you can see that there appears to be a hole well forward to allow the anchor cable to be pulled aboard but it is situated below the deck level. From above there doesn't appear to be any way for the cable to be fed round the windlass but at the same time it appears that there is (possibly) a hole in the deck alongside the fore mast which I would guess as being for the cable to be fed down to the rope locker. Can anyone clarify these points please.
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This is only guesswork, however I would expect to see the double system used on heavier yards. Having said that I've seen more use of the double system than the single and my knowledge of nautical terminology/usage is so close to zero as makes no difference. I tend to look at things on a purely mechanical basis.
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As far as I can see truss pendants were used where an obstacle of some sort would prevent the yard being fully lowered if held by parral trucks as in the rigging for cutters and topsail schooners. Oversimplified but it works for me.
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Bowsprit step completed after a couple of tries and two days of fiddling to get everything to line up. Bowsprit roughed up as it was needed to ensure the step fitted and sat in the correct position. I had to ensure it was tapered correctly, starting with an 8mm dowel placed in the chuck of a hand drill used as a lathe I tapered it to measure 7 mm down to 6 mm and then had to square the end to fit the step at the correct angle - that was a real pain as there was a lot of guesswork and fitting by eye, however I got there in the end. Getting the curve needed 24 hours of soaking but it did come out OK.
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More to the point - coughing with sharp implements in one's hand isn't exactly recommended! Hope your Dr can fix you up quickly.
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LOL Our guys only have their own outside run with climbing frame and sun beds. Heating is provided courtesy of 12 floor vents throughout the house that fit cats perfectly (or so they think).
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You very nearly set Australian/US relations back to the Battle of Brisbane with your first paragraph (if you've never come across this WWII pacific theatre episode Google it ). However someone who looks after cats so well can't be all bad so I will continue to assist as and how I may. Will have to say WOW really can't think of any other comment here.
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New member from North Sydney Australia
Rick01 replied to Fernando E's topic in New member Introductions
If you haven't already have a look at the various posts on here regarding the Mermaid - nice kit but with a few inaccuracies. By the way "Welcome". -
Thanks for the links - I searched EBay pretty well from here and these guys didn't show up at all! I'll bookmark them for further investigation.
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OK fixed Allan's point - these comments don't upset me I'm on here for help and assistance as much as anything. Some adjustment of the rudder still needed but that will be quite simple. I've made a windlass and added locator pins to help secure it when fixing to the deck - only used 8 brass nails to get the 4 pins - the others are flying through the fourth dimension somewhere. Bowsprit is under construction and as it has a curve at the base I'm attempting to bend 8mm dowel after soaking for 24 hours. We'll see how this goes! And now one for you Jay - I'm very slowly upgrading my cutlery - here's the first item and now all I need to learn is how to sharpen these things!! Few more deck fittings to make then masts and calculating the size and quantity of deadeyes, blocks etc.
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I've actually used a makeup brush for a few years now and love the way it lays paint/varnish down. Love the knives but wonder - have you thought/experimented with a slight curve on the tail like this http://www.thewritingpenstore.com/p-1356-stabilo-easyoriginal-rollerball-pen-left-handed.aspx. I use one of these pens as a leftie and find that it helps anchor it quite securely. It's OK I think I can still remember some of the mods I made to the kit!
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Actually it does us all good to be reminded why we use particular tool from time to time. It's so easy to forget and then just tell a beginner "use a ..mm drill bit, forgetting the "brad point" clarification. LOL
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Did Did your mother never tell you not to play with knives? Now back to boat building.
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Jay - finish will be "as is".The history of this little schooner is that she was a simple trading ship purchased in Sydney by John Pascoe Fawkner - and became the ship that sailed from Van Diemen's Land (Tasmania) in 1835 with the first permanent white settlers that started what has become the City of Melbourne. There are only a couple of contemporary sketches of her and no plans so in reality this is model is an approximation based on trading schooners of the period. When purchased she had been used to ship coal so one wouldn't expect any paint scheme at all. Allan - you're causing me problems!!! :-) Whilst looking at the hinge plates I spotted eye bolts on the top plate - obviously for chains to secure the rudder however I can't see any securing points for the chain. So over to you mate, where and how should the chains be secured to the hull?
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One minor problem here in Aus. Your $15.00 blades seem to be double that plus postage even when sourced locally https://www.japanesetools.com.au/ and I'm not sure I trust EBay. Buying from USA gets a good selection at reasonable prices but postage kills it. :-(
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No problem Allan - somehow I missed that probably as I was limited in the brass strip I had available at the time. I'll need more strip at some point so next visit to Floataboat in Melbourne I'll see what's available and look at rectifying this.
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Hi Jay - remember I'm retired so it allows me extra time to work on stuff. Going to slow down now as I attempt building things like the cat heads and windlass.
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I've got the capping rail under construction now. First made a pattern by tracing round the gunwales top onto a heavy card, then cutting out the relevant curve. Next was to soak then clamp a strip of lime for the basic curve. Once that was dry I edge glues three strip of lime and using the pattern as a guide cut the sharp curve needed at the bow. I'll be staining the finished product with walnut which has the added benefit of stiffening up the very soft lime timber.
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A question about Lady Nelson by Amati
Rick01 replied to CharlieZardoz's topic in Wood ship model kits
I'd say it's quite acceptable - check some of the other builds of this model for detail on the possible problems you may find. I finished a build of it recently but modified the rigging fairly extensively using L. Petersson's "Rigging Period Fore-and-aft Craft" as a guide as the kit is somewhat over simplified. -
The exterior hull is now finished and it's time to start work on the deck fittings that need to be attached before I step the masts. I've finished the planking with a satin water based varnish to save it from grubby fingerprints as I do further work - it's not as glossy as the photos intimate - there was a lot of reflected light on it! Gunwales completed and pin rails drilled and attached. It only took five attempts to make these, rather a lot seemed to split after drilling half the holes no matter how carefully I worked. Got there in the end though. I've also completed the deck housing and just need to fit door hinges and a handle.
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Before you get any further I think you need to take a short break and get this book "Rigging Period Ships" by Lennarth Petersson. I know it covers one specific three masted ship but it will give you a good working idea on how the rigging runs, attachments, what loops over what etc.If the only instructions you currently have are one or two rigging plans (illustrations) this will help you make sense of it all. If you're like me you want to get it all done "NOW" but it's well worth stopping for a short time and getting this book. Don't know where you're based but EBay is a pretty good place for this item. I know yours is from an earlier period but the basic mechanics would be similar enough that securing points etc. should be fairly obvious then.
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Standing rigging first i.e. shrouds and stays then the running rigging and I find working from prow to stern is easiest order otherwise you tend to be trying to work within rigging you've already installed. Pre assemble as much of the mast and spars as possible off the hull then start by stepping the lower masts and standing rigging then the next level of masts etc. Hope this is what you're looking for.
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You could always remodel it to look like it in its current state! http://www.cerberus.com.au/labeleddrawing2.html
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