Rick01
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Everything posted by Rick01
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LOL Our guys only have their own outside run with climbing frame and sun beds. Heating is provided courtesy of 12 floor vents throughout the house that fit cats perfectly (or so they think).
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You very nearly set Australian/US relations back to the Battle of Brisbane with your first paragraph (if you've never come across this WWII pacific theatre episode Google it ). However someone who looks after cats so well can't be all bad so I will continue to assist as and how I may. Will have to say WOW really can't think of any other comment here.
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New member from North Sydney Australia
Rick01 replied to Fernando E's topic in New member Introductions
If you haven't already have a look at the various posts on here regarding the Mermaid - nice kit but with a few inaccuracies. By the way "Welcome". -
Thanks for the links - I searched EBay pretty well from here and these guys didn't show up at all! I'll bookmark them for further investigation.
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OK fixed Allan's point - these comments don't upset me I'm on here for help and assistance as much as anything. Some adjustment of the rudder still needed but that will be quite simple. I've made a windlass and added locator pins to help secure it when fixing to the deck - only used 8 brass nails to get the 4 pins - the others are flying through the fourth dimension somewhere. Bowsprit is under construction and as it has a curve at the base I'm attempting to bend 8mm dowel after soaking for 24 hours. We'll see how this goes! And now one for you Jay - I'm very slowly upgrading my cutlery - here's the first item and now all I need to learn is how to sharpen these things!! Few more deck fittings to make then masts and calculating the size and quantity of deadeyes, blocks etc.
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I've actually used a makeup brush for a few years now and love the way it lays paint/varnish down. Love the knives but wonder - have you thought/experimented with a slight curve on the tail like this http://www.thewritingpenstore.com/p-1356-stabilo-easyoriginal-rollerball-pen-left-handed.aspx. I use one of these pens as a leftie and find that it helps anchor it quite securely. It's OK I think I can still remember some of the mods I made to the kit!
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Actually it does us all good to be reminded why we use particular tool from time to time. It's so easy to forget and then just tell a beginner "use a ..mm drill bit, forgetting the "brad point" clarification. LOL
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Did Did your mother never tell you not to play with knives? Now back to boat building.
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Jay - finish will be "as is".The history of this little schooner is that she was a simple trading ship purchased in Sydney by John Pascoe Fawkner - and became the ship that sailed from Van Diemen's Land (Tasmania) in 1835 with the first permanent white settlers that started what has become the City of Melbourne. There are only a couple of contemporary sketches of her and no plans so in reality this is model is an approximation based on trading schooners of the period. When purchased she had been used to ship coal so one wouldn't expect any paint scheme at all. Allan - you're causing me problems!!! :-) Whilst looking at the hinge plates I spotted eye bolts on the top plate - obviously for chains to secure the rudder however I can't see any securing points for the chain. So over to you mate, where and how should the chains be secured to the hull?
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One minor problem here in Aus. Your $15.00 blades seem to be double that plus postage even when sourced locally https://www.japanesetools.com.au/ and I'm not sure I trust EBay. Buying from USA gets a good selection at reasonable prices but postage kills it. :-(
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No problem Allan - somehow I missed that probably as I was limited in the brass strip I had available at the time. I'll need more strip at some point so next visit to Floataboat in Melbourne I'll see what's available and look at rectifying this.
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Hi Jay - remember I'm retired so it allows me extra time to work on stuff. Going to slow down now as I attempt building things like the cat heads and windlass.
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I've got the capping rail under construction now. First made a pattern by tracing round the gunwales top onto a heavy card, then cutting out the relevant curve. Next was to soak then clamp a strip of lime for the basic curve. Once that was dry I edge glues three strip of lime and using the pattern as a guide cut the sharp curve needed at the bow. I'll be staining the finished product with walnut which has the added benefit of stiffening up the very soft lime timber.
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A question about Lady Nelson by Amati
Rick01 replied to CharlieZardoz's topic in Wood ship model kits
I'd say it's quite acceptable - check some of the other builds of this model for detail on the possible problems you may find. I finished a build of it recently but modified the rigging fairly extensively using L. Petersson's "Rigging Period Fore-and-aft Craft" as a guide as the kit is somewhat over simplified. -
The exterior hull is now finished and it's time to start work on the deck fittings that need to be attached before I step the masts. I've finished the planking with a satin water based varnish to save it from grubby fingerprints as I do further work - it's not as glossy as the photos intimate - there was a lot of reflected light on it! Gunwales completed and pin rails drilled and attached. It only took five attempts to make these, rather a lot seemed to split after drilling half the holes no matter how carefully I worked. Got there in the end though. I've also completed the deck housing and just need to fit door hinges and a handle.
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Before you get any further I think you need to take a short break and get this book "Rigging Period Ships" by Lennarth Petersson. I know it covers one specific three masted ship but it will give you a good working idea on how the rigging runs, attachments, what loops over what etc.If the only instructions you currently have are one or two rigging plans (illustrations) this will help you make sense of it all. If you're like me you want to get it all done "NOW" but it's well worth stopping for a short time and getting this book. Don't know where you're based but EBay is a pretty good place for this item. I know yours is from an earlier period but the basic mechanics would be similar enough that securing points etc. should be fairly obvious then.
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Standing rigging first i.e. shrouds and stays then the running rigging and I find working from prow to stern is easiest order otherwise you tend to be trying to work within rigging you've already installed. Pre assemble as much of the mast and spars as possible off the hull then start by stepping the lower masts and standing rigging then the next level of masts etc. Hope this is what you're looking for.
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You could always remodel it to look like it in its current state! http://www.cerberus.com.au/labeleddrawing2.html
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24 solar panels on the house so the heater I run doesn't cause any cost problems.
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Little side trip whilst I have rest from planking (again). I've now finished the skylight- it just needs a very light sand and then a water based satin finish varnish. The glass is .18 mm micro slide cover which caused me a lot of trauma as it shattered every time I tried cutting it to size. Eventually (15 sheets later) I glued a full slide to the frame and once fully dry held a steel straight edge firmly on the glass and chipped it away, glued the trim one then very carefully filed the edges back. The bars are black cartridge paper sliced finely and glued to the frame. As is usual with close-up photos it all looks rougher than it really is.
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I seal my hull/decking once I've finished that section, I find it easier to clean grubby marks due to handling after sealing than trying to work round deck fittings later. Only catch is that when fixing furnishings etc. you do have to scrape back any sealant for the glue to take but that's only a minor problem.
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This is what she should look like once finished. Missed her last month as the weather was to rough , but she sailed in to Mornington this weekend. I've got some detail photos now to help once I'm past the hull stage. One big difference between this and the plans is the raised superstructure just behind the foremast not shown on the plans. I'm guessing this is because the replica takes passengers for overnight cruises and weekends whereas the original was a trading schooner with a larger hold and no specific passenger accommodation. Notice she's flying the skull and crossbones as it's a pirate weekend!
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Still planking and still hate doing it. So just for a short break I've started on the trim surrounding the stern. Half a dozen attempts to get a really sharp bend on some wood later I decided it wasn't going to work as the wood splintered well before I could get the bend near correct, so on to plan B. Edge glued some scrap and when dry peeled off the glass and holding it against the stern traced the curve needed. Re glued to the glass and once set I slowly cut away the wood leaving a rough "hockey stick" which was then lifted again with a scalpel. This will then be cleaned up and fitted later in the build.
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Here's a thought for anyone thinking of going this way - 12" feeler gauge at .018". They're available but tend to be in packs of 5+ so you may want to on sell some.
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Like the spring steel idea - I've been using emery boards with various grades of paper stuck on with double sided tape. Must loo into the spring steel option though (eldest son builds rotary aircraft engines and probably has access to such stuff), I'm guessing this would also work well when trying to draw a straight line on a curved surface.
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