Rick01
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The only thing I can offer in the way of basic reasoning is that originally these were used by smugglers then excise guys as high speed rough water craft. Imagine one under way in a reasonable blow, all the canvas possible spread - the bow is going to be forced down some way and this should level the gunports fairly well ( my thoughts anyway). I really know nothing about sailing craft but I tend to apply common sense to a problem which usually gives some sort of reasonable solution. Of course the other point is that (as we've both felt) the kit supplied gunwales is slightly out of whack ! Another theory!! They put 6lb guns at the bow end and fire these first with the discharge forcing the bows down which then brings 3lb stern guns up to the same level allowing them to be discharged on the same plane?" Well it does sound good.
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Check these plans http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections.html#!csearch;authority=subject-90352;collectionReference=subject-90352;innerSearchTerm=armed_cutter I think you'll see that the bow actually does sit quite high ( as long as you can make out the very feint water line shown). I've just gone back and looked at your scheme and I feel that the waterline is pretty good, but do check these plans yourself.
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We must have been thinking along similar tracks today - I put up my workbench/tools purely to show what you can get away with somewhere about the same time as you posted your collection. I just kept imagining a wave coming up hard and fast from astern and the fountain as it blew up through the hole for the rudder ( bit like a good blow hole).
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Just before you "first build" guys get scared off by this collection ( I'm green with envy). Have a look at my current work top and tools bottom of this post
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Well I've started the exterior planking and seem to be able to progress at about 4 planks a day. In between times I've grabbed a couple of shots of my work area/tools etc. for those beginners who may look in at the build. See it is possible to make a workman like model using basic items at little cost (nothing over $10.00 au). Plenty of elastic bands, a couple of bulldog clips and lego bricks and the planking stays in position. OK the saw cost more than $10.00 but it wasn't bought specifically for modelling work. Everything else has either been raided from first aid kits, make up bags or psaid for as a last resort. One of my home made useful items - it's a 35 x 6mm bit of plate glass with a couple of off cuts glued to one end at right angles. When I need to edge glue .6mm bits I don't have to worry about them sticking to other surfaces - glue the edge, slide together on the glass and carefully clamp if needed. Once the glue has set it's then just a matter of sliding a scalpel blade along the glass to lift the item. Cleaning the glass is very easy again just lift any glue with the blade and polish the glass with warm eater. Likewise with any right angle gluing needed - I'd have been in trouble without it when making the deck housing.
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Jay - don't know how far down you want to go with detail but have a look at this It's something that has bugged me for a while - common sense says there had to be some sort of gasket but I could never find any illustrations/references to the fittings.
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Thanks Blue Ensign exactly what I was hoping to see but just didn't look in the right places! :-(
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Just a thought - with the smaller craft where the rudder extends up through the deck and is controlled by a tiller bar. Is there any type of seal to prevent/slow down water being forced up the hole that the rudder is mounted in. I realise that in many craft this is above the waterline but would expect that wave action would still cause water to flow through there at times.
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Deck planking finished and will be sanded properly later. I've also completed the deck housing/companionway and built the frame for the skylight. Can't do any more with this though until I've fitted the glass - I've ordered some microscope slides which will cut down fairly well and then will only need framing glued to the glass to provide the correct effect. The deck housing is mostly scraps left over from decking and bulwarks planking fixed to a box frame. I've avoided the final planking as long as I can but I'm afraid I'll now have to start the one part of the build that I really dislike!
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Got the bulwarks lined and exterior planking fitted which has strengthened this area considerably. I've started on planking the deck but at the moment this is going slowly - got my centre line slightly off I think, which together with slight differences in decking widths shows up as I near the edges. Given that the original was a privately (non-gov't shipyard) built working schooner I'm happy to have a few "quirks" to the planking lines. Actually, unless you start counting and measuring the runs I don't think they'll ever be noticed.
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I'll still be around to comment on deck furniture, masts and rigging . This seems to be where the kit has taken the easy way and oversimplified much of the detail, however as it's a kit of representative cutter it does allow us to reinterpret/refit this whole area.
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First planking now complete, time to take a short break while I consider my next few moves. This working without an instruction sheet does make you think well ahead to ensure you don't do something that you have to undo later!! Looks pretty rough in the photos but actually it's a good surface for final planking. Next step ( I think) will be to take a break from working the exterior and knock off the gunwales supports, plank the inner gunwales and stern counter, mark out the deck for hatches etc. then plank the deck.
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In a word "no". As Pat explained the expansion/compression will cause problems, in addition if you use a water based glue it will come undone whilst soaking. It's not that hard to pre-bend and then fit the inner planks - just need a lot of clips to hold it firmly on the bulwarks as you glue it.
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It's surprising how much that first one rises at the first attempt, once you've got it sitting right however the rest should follow quite nicely. By the way - with four garboard builds under my belt I still can't get them right so you look to be well ahead of me!
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Still on the first planking, only three more each side and that's finished. Meanwhile I've completed the components of the rudder and test fitted them. The tiller was a bit of a problem and this is actually number four. Either they snapped during construction, straightened themselves once un-clamped or or split when drilling for a pin to secure them to the top of the rudder. Eventually I used a couple of small scrap bits of Maple (I think) soaked well then individually clamped. Once dry and released I then laminated them and reclamped for 12 hours - end result something I was happy with that held its shape and didn't split when drilled. To get the right shape I cobbled together a few bits of scrap MDF cut to the correct form, one side glued to a base and the other floating free so that it could be clamped tight against the Maple. Crude but effective and one of the reasons I never dump off-cuts until I've finished whatever project I'm working on. I may never need this specific curve again so I can happily dump it and not worry that I've wasted wood.
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I think you'll find that even the experts cheat and use a simple overhand knot at times. In fact some correct knots actually become disproportionately large when used on some of the finer lines. Suggestion for you - instead of superglue use a PVA it does make removing the line easier if/when you find you hate the look of a particular line!
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If you want to stick with an Australian theme then check out HM Cutter Mermaid. Not really a cheap kit and the accuracy is not hte greatest. However there are some sketches on-line done by the commander of her which allow for the kit to be amended quite easily. I didn't do a build log but there is a good one in the forum, plus I've got a number of posts in the rigging area which help. If you do go down that route I'm happy to talk you through the amendments I made.
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With my build I think I actually just referred to the step numbers and suggested that they should be reversed rather than saying don't do this first do that! With the furry rigging a bit of dilute PVA glue rubbed on it "with" the thread direction neatens it up. I re-rigged mine after those photos as I wasn't happy with the way the stays were anchored, I looked at Chuck's build of a longboat and used a similar method with deadeyes and hooks.
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Couple of points for you - did you read and of the previous builds here? I know I pointed out the problem with the gunwale covers when I did mine (chweck my signature for a link). The forward boom has a block and tackle that should be anchored down along the centre line of the boat - this fixes the "flopping around" problem. As to the hoisting of the gaff, I think that the model is missing a section of rigging - with cutters and larger ships there is a hoist which lifts from the yoke thus keeping everything neat. Solution is either scrap the sails and lower the gaffs, or install a hoist for each gaff. Got to agree about rigging plans - not the best for a beginner.
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First planking is coming on slowly with my usual fight to get things to fit (I'm best left alone during this part of the build). In between swearing at planks and removing glue from my fingers I've also taken the odd moment out to make the rudder assembly and fit it all together. Component parts. Hardware fitted. All test fitted. Due to the kink in the rudder itself this will need to be slotted in to the ship as a single unit at a later date. Currently it just need s slight clean up and then a couple of coats of a water based satin finish varnish. Meanwhile I'll need all sorts of operations/chemicals to remove the superglue that I always seem to coat myself with when putting these items together!
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I've now got bulwarks fitted, plus the prow (?) which was needed to locate the bulwarks properly. A lot of stock card has been cut up bent, spindled and otherwise tortured to get a template something vaguely resembling the correct curve for the bulwarks. That way I didn't waste any timber when cutting the final bulwark, even now it's a bit wobbly however by the time it's all planked everything should square itself up and all the wavy lines will disappear (positive thinking here). Went down to Mornington today in the hopes of getting some photos but it seems the guys running her picked up their bat and ball Saturday morning and went home as it looked to be too rough for tourist trips. 1st planking next, then the balance of the false keel.
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She's in Mornington this weekend - I'll be visiting and grabbing as many photos as I can for later reference.
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Looks like you've got it this time! Those stealers seem to sit quite naturally now so don't try tweaking it any more or you'll never be happy with it. One of my worst habits is going back again and again "just to try a little improvement" and generally ending up with something a bigger mess than when I started. Can't you just leave your socks on the floor in the hopes that someone will take pity on you and do a quick tidy-up. Or have you tried that before and failed?
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Infill completed and sanded back. Looks rough in the photos but is not that bad in reality. You'll notice a fine "bulkhead " just left of centre which is in fact a saw cut. I ended up with a slight bend in the keel (not noticed until after all the work had been done). To correct it I identified the section causing the problem then made a cut both sides centred on the kink, drove a small wedge into the body until the keel straightened then filled - problem fixed. You'll notice a couple of gunwale supports missing (broke during deck sanding) - I'll make a temporary block to keep the correct shape/lines when I start on the gunwales.Next step is a visit to "Float-a-boat" in Ringwood for all the timbers for decking planking etc. meanwhile the false keel will be cut to shape. I'll be more than happy if I get this bit right the first time! Someone wil spot that there are no rabets - the frame is 3 mm mdf and the plans indicate a 5 mm false keel giving me a 1 mm tolerance either side when fitted so by my calculations I won't need a rabet which makes my life a little easier. This scratch building is definitely scary but I'm happy with what I've got happening so far and I will not be giving up!
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I fit mine in a similar way to Don but make a blunt arrow head shape on the narrow end rather than a square end. Fitting a couple with maybe two full planks between them make for a much neater look.
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