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Rick01

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Everything posted by Rick01

  1. Rick01
    Couple of points for you - did you read and of the previous builds here? I know I pointed out the problem with the gunwale covers when I did mine (chweck my signature for a link). The forward boom has a block and tackle that should be anchored down along the centre line of the boat - this fixes the "flopping around" problem. As to the hoisting of the gaff, I think that the model is missing a section of rigging - with cutters and larger ships there is a hoist which lifts from the yoke thus keeping everything neat. Solution is either scrap the sails and lower the gaffs, or install a hoist for each gaff. Got to agree about rigging plans - not the best for a beginner.
  2. Rick01
    First planking is coming on slowly with my usual fight to get things to fit (I'm best left alone during this part of the build). In between swearing at planks and removing glue from my fingers I've also taken the odd moment out to make the rudder assembly and fit it all together. Component parts. Hardware fitted. All test fitted. Due to the kink in the rudder itself this will need to be slotted in to the ship as a single unit at a later date. Currently it just need s slight clean up and then a couple of coats of a water based satin finish varnish. Meanwhile I'll need all sorts of operations/chemicals to remove the superglue that I always seem to coat myself with when putting these items together!
  3. Rick01
    I've now got bulwarks fitted, plus the prow (?) which was needed to locate the bulwarks properly. A lot of stock card has been cut up bent, spindled and otherwise tortured to get a template something vaguely resembling the correct curve for the bulwarks. That way I didn't waste any timber when cutting the final bulwark, even now it's a bit wobbly however by the time it's all planked everything should square itself up and all the wavy lines will disappear (positive thinking here). Went down to Mornington today in the hopes of getting some photos but it seems the guys running her picked up their bat and ball Saturday morning and went home as it looked to be too rough for tourist trips. 1st planking next, then the balance of the false keel.
  4. Rick01
    She's in Mornington this weekend - I'll be visiting and grabbing as many photos as I can for later reference.
  5. Rick01
    Looks like you've got it this time! Those stealers seem to sit quite naturally now so don't try tweaking it any more or you'll never be happy with it. One of my worst habits is going back again and again "just to try a little improvement" and generally ending up with something a bigger mess than when I started. Can't you just leave your socks on the floor in the hopes that someone will take pity on you and do a quick tidy-up. Or have you tried that before and failed?
  6. Rick01
    Infill completed and sanded back. Looks rough in the photos but is not that bad in reality. You'll notice a fine "bulkhead " just left of centre which is in fact a saw cut. I ended up with a slight bend in the keel (not noticed until after all the work had been done). To correct it I identified the section causing the problem then made a cut both sides centred on the kink, drove a small wedge into the body until the keel straightened then filled - problem fixed. You'll notice a couple of gunwale supports missing (broke during deck sanding) - I'll make a temporary block to keep the correct shape/lines when I start on the gunwales.Next step is a visit to "Float-a-boat" in Ringwood for all the timbers for decking planking etc. meanwhile the false keel will be cut to shape. I'll be more than happy if I get this bit right the first time! Someone wil spot that there are no rabets - the frame is 3 mm mdf and the plans indicate a 5 mm false keel giving me a 1 mm tolerance either side when fitted so by my calculations I won't need a rabet which makes my life a little easier. This scratch building is definitely scary but I'm happy with what I've got happening so far and I will not be giving up!
  7. Rick01
    I fit mine in a similar way to Don but make a blunt arrow head shape on the narrow end rather than a square end. Fitting a couple with maybe two full planks between them make for a much neater look.
  8. Rick01
    Popeye has got it - This is the point where I despair of getting it right but by planking this way the stealer positions itself pretty well and shouldn't be obvious. The only way to find our is to start planking.
  9. Rick01
    I started off gluing mine in but thrn changed to allowing the rigging to hold it in place correctly. I actually found it easier to position the mast this way and fine adjustments were also easy just by tensioning or slackening the relevant shrouds.
  10. Rick01
    Not the best shots but you should be able to see the run of the planks from the garboard fairly well. The stealer was inserted 5th plank up.
  11. Rick01
    Tomorrow I'll try and photograph the hull of another model I've bashed to show those first planks. The hull itself is actually the Lady Nelson hull with some major mods to the upper works so the planking is exactly the same (I hope).
  12. Rick01
    I see what you mean about the garboard plank appearing to want to rise at the stern. I've just done a quick search of the NMM for planking expansions and none that I found show the garboard leaving the false keel. Your fore/aft shot looks good with a nice clean line following the keel, it's the deep belly that causes the apparent problem (as we both know). Hows it look if you lay out a couple more planks above it? I did notice a couple of expansions in the NMM where the garboard stopped short and the second plank had a hook end but that actually was effectively two planks into one which has the opposite effect. Both cutters that I've built have had the garboard run the full length of the keel and the stealer occurred naturally just before the 90 deg. twist up to the stern counter. Sorry I can't be more help here but I feel that the straight run is more correct.
  13. Rick01
    Part of the reason I took the photo. This little ship does hour long trips around Port Phillip bay and so any pointy bits need some sort of covering to stop land lubbers from injuring themselves on them.
  14. Rick01
    This pin is on a replica of an 1830's topsail schooner. It's about 15" long - hope it helps.
  15. Rick01
    Two reasons:- 1/ I've got torn ligaments/inflamed bursar in my shoulder so I find it easier to work with. 2/ I've piles of the stuff laying around in the workshop. I will be filling between the bulkheads in due course so there will be a stable base for all the planking and subsequent attachments. The Enterprize replica will be in a local harbour next month so I'll be off then to grab as many photos as possible to help me in the build.
  16. Rick01
    All the bulkheads have now been cut out, sanded to shape and dry fitted. I now need to ensure everything is square and the deck line is symetric. Given that I'm using an old GMC band saw and a tongue depressor with sandpaper held on with double sided sticky tape I'm happy with the results so far. Spot the error - counting from the prow third and fourth bulkheads need to be swapped!! At least they're only temporarily dropped in to place.
  17. Rick01
    OK I'm now getting so far out of my comfort zone I'm almost coming back in the other side.One of our local historic ships was the topsail schooner Enterrize sailing from Hobart. Recently I bought a copy of the plans issued by Modeller's Draught as reconstructed by Karl Marquardt and am now attempting to build the model as a POB construct, I do have the luxury of having a full size replica visiting our local harbour frequently so am collecting piles of photos for additional reference. First step was to scan the A2 sheet and then reduce the scale to 1:48 and then break up the scan in order to print it as a series of A3 and A4 sheets that could then be cut and glued to 3mm MDF before taking to it with a band saw, files etc to make the basic frame.
  18. Rick01
    Hey - at least you know what to plan for now!! Re ship names - I can't quote the discussion but I've a niggle in the back of my mind that a couple of the guys who really get into the research mentioned that it wasn't usual for the smaller ships such as cutters to carry a name on the stern. Maybe someone else can comment on this.
  19. Rick01
    If you do have a leg fall off - make it the right one. I've a spare prosthesis you may borrow if need be. Rick
  20. Rick01
    With luck like you're experiencing, over here we'd be asking if you'd killed a bus load of chinamen! Rick
  21. Rick01
    Ouch!! I assume you've a secondary system to use 'til your power plant is replaced? Not a fan of the black hull in your second sketch but we should all hang on until you've got the hull completed to the point of painting (or not).
  22. Rick01
    Going to disagree with you on the aesthetics - having a slight case of OCD according to my family, I'd have placed it about half way up the planking . However if I remember my build it actually pretty well set itself as the planking started to separate when laid along its natural fall.
  23. Rick01
    Colour scheme works for me - you do have a choice with the white in that a search of the NMM collection shows that many of the contemporary cutters are painted up to the lower wale rather than stopping at the waterline. As you can see I took mine up to the wale but the choice is up to you as there seems to be no fixed standard here. There is a positive here in that if you're going to paint then we won't be able to see where you fit the stealer as two or three coats of paint well rubbed back should hide the individual planks, so its position is immaterial in this instance (except that you'll know and it could bug you if you're anything like me). Feeling any better? See you've been a bit active today. Rick
  24. Rick01
    Shoudn't really - I've checked what I did on this hull (a different build just using the hull) and I only used a single stealer effectively being the 4th plank up from the false keel. Still on the "flat" with minimum twisting involved. It was at this point that my planking started move away from neat parallel lines. Rick
  25. Rick01
    Hey Vossie remember you're working at 1/64 so unless you've got your nose pretty well on the rudder you'll be pushing up hill to see this fine a detail! However I will agree that the supplied metalwork is not the best and getting the rudder to sit close to the rudder post is not easy without some major rebuilding. Rick

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