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Rick01

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Everything posted by Rick01

  1. Rick01
    Popeye has got it - This is the point where I despair of getting it right but by planking this way the stealer positions itself pretty well and shouldn't be obvious. The only way to find our is to start planking.
  2. Rick01
    I started off gluing mine in but thrn changed to allowing the rigging to hold it in place correctly. I actually found it easier to position the mast this way and fine adjustments were also easy just by tensioning or slackening the relevant shrouds.
  3. Rick01
    Not the best shots but you should be able to see the run of the planks from the garboard fairly well. The stealer was inserted 5th plank up.
  4. Rick01
    Tomorrow I'll try and photograph the hull of another model I've bashed to show those first planks. The hull itself is actually the Lady Nelson hull with some major mods to the upper works so the planking is exactly the same (I hope).
  5. Rick01
    I see what you mean about the garboard plank appearing to want to rise at the stern. I've just done a quick search of the NMM for planking expansions and none that I found show the garboard leaving the false keel. Your fore/aft shot looks good with a nice clean line following the keel, it's the deep belly that causes the apparent problem (as we both know). Hows it look if you lay out a couple more planks above it? I did notice a couple of expansions in the NMM where the garboard stopped short and the second plank had a hook end but that actually was effectively two planks into one which has the opposite effect. Both cutters that I've built have had the garboard run the full length of the keel and the stealer occurred naturally just before the 90 deg. twist up to the stern counter. Sorry I can't be more help here but I feel that the straight run is more correct.
  6. Rick01
    Part of the reason I took the photo. This little ship does hour long trips around Port Phillip bay and so any pointy bits need some sort of covering to stop land lubbers from injuring themselves on them.
  7. Rick01
    This pin is on a replica of an 1830's topsail schooner. It's about 15" long - hope it helps.
  8. Rick01
    Two reasons:- 1/ I've got torn ligaments/inflamed bursar in my shoulder so I find it easier to work with. 2/ I've piles of the stuff laying around in the workshop. I will be filling between the bulkheads in due course so there will be a stable base for all the planking and subsequent attachments. The Enterprize replica will be in a local harbour next month so I'll be off then to grab as many photos as possible to help me in the build.
  9. Rick01
    All the bulkheads have now been cut out, sanded to shape and dry fitted. I now need to ensure everything is square and the deck line is symetric. Given that I'm using an old GMC band saw and a tongue depressor with sandpaper held on with double sided sticky tape I'm happy with the results so far. Spot the error - counting from the prow third and fourth bulkheads need to be swapped!! At least they're only temporarily dropped in to place.
  10. Rick01
    OK I'm now getting so far out of my comfort zone I'm almost coming back in the other side.One of our local historic ships was the topsail schooner Enterrize sailing from Hobart. Recently I bought a copy of the plans issued by Modeller's Draught as reconstructed by Karl Marquardt and am now attempting to build the model as a POB construct, I do have the luxury of having a full size replica visiting our local harbour frequently so am collecting piles of photos for additional reference. First step was to scan the A2 sheet and then reduce the scale to 1:48 and then break up the scan in order to print it as a series of A3 and A4 sheets that could then be cut and glued to 3mm MDF before taking to it with a band saw, files etc to make the basic frame.
  11. Rick01
    Hey - at least you know what to plan for now!! Re ship names - I can't quote the discussion but I've a niggle in the back of my mind that a couple of the guys who really get into the research mentioned that it wasn't usual for the smaller ships such as cutters to carry a name on the stern. Maybe someone else can comment on this.
  12. Rick01
    If you do have a leg fall off - make it the right one. I've a spare prosthesis you may borrow if need be. Rick
  13. Rick01
    With luck like you're experiencing, over here we'd be asking if you'd killed a bus load of chinamen! Rick
  14. Rick01
    Ouch!! I assume you've a secondary system to use 'til your power plant is replaced? Not a fan of the black hull in your second sketch but we should all hang on until you've got the hull completed to the point of painting (or not).
  15. Rick01
    Going to disagree with you on the aesthetics - having a slight case of OCD according to my family, I'd have placed it about half way up the planking . However if I remember my build it actually pretty well set itself as the planking started to separate when laid along its natural fall.
  16. Rick01
    Colour scheme works for me - you do have a choice with the white in that a search of the NMM collection shows that many of the contemporary cutters are painted up to the lower wale rather than stopping at the waterline. As you can see I took mine up to the wale but the choice is up to you as there seems to be no fixed standard here. There is a positive here in that if you're going to paint then we won't be able to see where you fit the stealer as two or three coats of paint well rubbed back should hide the individual planks, so its position is immaterial in this instance (except that you'll know and it could bug you if you're anything like me). Feeling any better? See you've been a bit active today. Rick
  17. Rick01
    Shoudn't really - I've checked what I did on this hull (a different build just using the hull) and I only used a single stealer effectively being the 4th plank up from the false keel. Still on the "flat" with minimum twisting involved. It was at this point that my planking started move away from neat parallel lines. Rick
  18. Rick01
    Hey Vossie remember you're working at 1/64 so unless you've got your nose pretty well on the rudder you'll be pushing up hill to see this fine a detail! However I will agree that the supplied metalwork is not the best and getting the rudder to sit close to the rudder post is not easy without some major rebuilding. Rick
  19. Rick01
    Hi - did have a good relaxing time but it sounds as if you've had it a bit rough between kidney stones and work! Don't push the model if you're not feeling up to it, with planking it's just not worth the risk. I spent 6 months finishing this kit so you're well ahead of things given that I'm retired and could spend a couple of hours a day on it. Rick
  20. Rick01
    Wefalck Chuck used contemporary plans from the NMM site -there are a number available if you search "planking expansion". Rick
  21. Rick01
    Overall it looks good - however the garboard plank should run parallel to the false keel for its full length as you can see in Chuck's model. One or two stealers will then slot in a little higher up the stern but before it flares out. I am back from holiday now so I'm allowed to look in and comment! Rick
  22. Rick01
    Hi - I'm still holidaying - but both times I've been on here it's only because I had to contact home about some stuff and thought I'd drop in quickly to see what I may have done wrong! I'm having fun and it looks as if you've got a nice line for a start on the planking. Rick
  23. Rick01
    Add the fact that the the spacing on the pin rails is wrong etc. If you look back at my photos I've rebuilt the tiller and added a horse behind/above to handle the boom and made my own bilge pumps. Once you get to the deck furnishings it really gets fun. I've just chased all over town to find a free wifi that doesn't tell me this forum isn't a "safe" one so I can try and ensure that you don't start blaming me for any problems that may occur with the final planking which I guessed you'd be starting today. About which - the line you've shown seems to curve up rather steeply to me, with the bow planking it should follow lines nearly parallel to the wales with a slight curve upwards. So once below the wales each plank will have a slight taper. Hopefully someone else will explain this better. You'll get peace and quiet from me for the next 48 hours as I'm heading bush - 35C + and absolutely no mobile coverage all good as long as no breakdowns! Rick
  24. Rick01
    Got internet for a very short while here!! Will try and check in from time to time but no guarantees. The problem I found with gluing short lengths at a time was that I was liable to crack the plank when lifting it slightly to get the next length glued (and getting it exactly positioned in the first place). Rick
  25. Rick01
    My glue choice is water based PVA - I does take some time to grab but is easy to clean up and if you do make a mistake (not likely with you) quite simple to damp down and remove the offending item. Another plus is that diluted it helps fix knot in rigging plus get rope coils to hang convincingly. With clamps it's pretty individual in your choice, I've a collection varying from standard C clamps, spring , assorted sizes of bulldog clips down to toy clothes pegs and a big selection of assorted sizes of rubber bands! Clamping does become a problem when fitting the final few planks on the hull which is where I find the rubber bands do come in useful - those with lego bricks to vary the pressure work pretty well. Decking is so much easier!! Rick

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