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Bob Blarney

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Everything posted by Bob Blarney

  1. Bob Blarney
    Use a razor or knife to mark, not a pencil or a pen - they're too blunt for something so small.
  2. Bob Blarney
    Jay, thanks, the treadmill motor works fine. I just scavenged the entire electronics including the MC45 controller board and the user control console, and then also added a dpdt reversing switch. It turned out conveniently that the motor's flywheel-pulley used poly-vee "J" belts that matched the pulleys on the lathe. (the belt was bought from beltsforanything.com). My only issue is that at very slow speeds (125-250 rpm), it tends to bog down under load, and then overshoot the rpm. I suppose that it has something to do with the soft-start and the speed modulation algorithm, and maybe also the 1:2 ratio of the pulley diameters. But all-in-all, I'm very happy with the setup because it's largely eliminated moving the belt across the cone pulleys, except for special circumstances,
  3. Bob Blarney
    Klingspor is good source for abrasives, and a 'bargain box' off odds & sods might be a very good deal for modelmakers, and they have a selection of products of interest to modelbuilders: http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/bb00010/ http://www.woodworkingshop.com/category.aspx?id=52
  4. Bob Blarney
    Without turning this into an electronics discussion, how does the PWM method differ from other speed control methods with respect to maintaining torque? I'm curious, in part because I just repurposed a 2HP/5000RPM treadmill motor to power my 10x42 wood lathe.
  5. Bob Blarney
    That's an interesting machine and he did nice job of building it. But one thing to keep in mind for sanding is the surface speed of the paper, which is pi x diameter x rpm. When it's too fast, the sandpaper is not effective, or it wears out quickly due to the heat. For sanding a 1-3" wooden object on my lathe, I set the speed around 250-750 rpm, depending upon the wood species. The machine might be improved by adding a variable speed control.
  6. Bob Blarney
    i occasionally buy guitar supplies from Stewart McDonald, but more often from Luthiers Mercantile International, Inc www.lmii.com You might find their tools for binding interesting, especially the ones for inlays, and dimensioning small strips of wood and plastic.
  7. Bob Blarney
    Here's a tutorial by a respected luthier repairman: http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Structural/SpruceHole/sprucehole.html
  8. Bob Blarney
    Filling an area so that it won't show is an art that I've never quite mastered. That said, I would fill the defect in layers, using sawdust of the same wood species mixed with hide glue. Of all glues, Hide glue accepts stains & varnishes better than any other glue. People who repair guitars, violins, and other instruments occasionally select a sliver of wood that very closely matches the color and grain lines, and then they make a carefully controlled cut with a >new< scalpel or razor blade to obtain a smooth gluing surface. Then they lay the patch in with hide glue (use the tip of a #11 scalpel blade to apply the patch), wait 24 or more hours, and then sand or scrape the patch flat with a cabinet scraper or flexible >new< razor blade. When done carefully, the results are often amazing. Try these techniques on a bit of scrap, obviously. It may possibly make a difference if you use sawdust that was sanded from the endgrain vs the long grain, so you might experiment with both to see if there is a discernable difference.
  9. Bob Blarney
    That's a useful idea, particularly if your can lock the drillpress quill at a desired height/depth. But I would use solid wood such as maple, instead of plywood.
  10. Bob Blarney
    Hah! Ask a tall or short first or second assistant about the ergonomics of the operating field. An extended procedure spent holding a retractor without being able to see what's going in the field can get somewhat uncomfortable. Hmm, another thread might suggest surgical instruments that are useful for modeling work... let's start with curved Halsted mosquitoes, a 6" right angle, 6-7" crile-woods needleholder, mayo scissors, iris scissors, and Brown Adson forceps, and maybe some ligature hooks.
  11. Bob Blarney
    A surgeon usually works at about elbow height and everybody else adjusts to that level. I like to do fine work at a little higher level, somewhere between elbow and armpit height. My daughter who is a glass artist, has vertically adjustable forearm rests for intricate work, and places her forearms on them about mid-way between elbow and wrist. A couple of other minor tips. To do fine work between thumbs and forefingers (such as threading a needle), sometimes it's helpful to touch the pinky and ring fingers of your hands together. And sometimes when careful one-handed work is needed, rest the wrist of your dominant hand upon the wrist of the other hand, or use a maul stick as painters do.
  12. Bob Blarney
    That's ingenious.
  13. Bob Blarney
    I've used UV glues for assembly of biomedical devices. An advantage is that they don't cure quickly (if at all) until they are exposed to UV light, and this allows for a leisurely assembly process. But a disadvantage is that >most< won't cure in any area of the workpiece where light can't penetrate. I say >most< because some UV glues can also be cured by heat, and this means that initial surface bonding can be achieved with the UV light and then the piece is placed in an oven to complete the cure. Another consideration is that it doesn't bond well to some materials, and so, as is always prudent, one should test on scrap material first. Finally, remember that there is a big intense UV light high in the sky, and so if your puny little handheld UV light is insufficient to the do the job, then assemble your items on a tray, and then carry the tray to the window or outdoors. You can also use a magnifying glass, judiciously. Oh, and one last point - be mindful of the potential danger of intense UV light. All UV light wavelengths damage tissue, so use shielding whenever possible, particularly for your eyes.
  14. Bob Blarney
    This looks very interesting Anatomy of an Admiralty Model by Robert Bruckshaw There are several sites for this valuable publication as a free download PDF. Here is one: http://www.woodenboats.lt/Knygos%20public/Modeliavimas/Anatomy%20of%20admiral%20model.pdf
  15. Bob Blarney
    I've been using the new 3M Pro Grade Precision Ultra Flexible Sanding Sheets, that have shiny rubbery plastic backing, and I like them.
  16. Bob Blarney
    I often use psa sandpaper on chisels or flexible rulers, and also on square x-section steel bar in 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 inch by 6-12 inch lengths. For files, I visit a jeweler's supply.
  17. Bob Blarney
    just a footnote - the cosmoline is easily cleaned off with most any solvent, naptha, mineral spiriits, lacquer thinner etc, but I bet that automotive brake cleaner in a spray can might be very effective too, and maybe without the need for complete disassembly..
  18. Bob Blarney
    There is one thing about 'wobble' blades -- they produce a square bottom at only one width. At other width it will be concave or convex. Perhaps you might mount two blades on the arbor, with spacer washers in between. Chisel out the waste in between, or mill it out with a single blade in the saw. If the saw is underpowered, go easy with several cuts. There is also a gadget called a Kerfmaker by Bridge City Toolworks -- there are vids about homemade ones. Also, look at the 'Jointmaker Pro' saw. The tools are exquisite, and the prices heavenly. https://www. bridgecitytools.com
  19. Bob Blarney
    HIde glue is the superglue for woodworking. i use for guitarbuilding. Another advantage of hide glue is that it does not interfere with finishes, and repairs/regluing is not difficult. Avoid Franklin Liquid Hide Glue. Old Brown glue is acceptable, but I usually use hot hide glue at 145F, and preheat the well-fitted parts.
  20. Bob Blarney
    Maybe this collection of essays will be of interest: https://books.google.com/books?id=j-_w-pimp1AC&lpg=PP1&dq=ISBN%20%3A%209780879351618&pg=PP1#v=onepage&q&f=true
  21. Bob Blarney
    Cellulose nitrate / nitrocellulose is known as collodion in the medical world. It is also used to finish musical instruments. A solvent is ether, which is not a good thing to have inside the house. It is heavier than air and extremely volatile and a spark or flame cag ignite an explosion. You may find ether as 'starting fluid' for gasoline engines.
  22. Bob Blarney
    Hmm, the glue contains solids and a vehicle, and the vehicle carries the solids and evaporates, leaving the solids to congeal or react. If you want to put glue exactly where you want it and nowhere else, then 1) test fit the parts first, and 2) then figure out a way to hold them position until the glue solidifies. 3)Then place a small dot of glue on a card, and use a needle or toothpick to pick up a droplet and apply it to the parts. Don't use the applicator of the tube. if you use a lot of CA glue, you can draw it up in polypropylene transfer pipettes with fine tips and invert them. They keep for a long time uncapped, or you can crimp the ends. Incidentally, many yellow or white PVA glues can be released with alcohol and/or heat. CA eventually degrades in water (but that's not practical here), but acetone will loosen it. Most epoxies melt at about 250F, but some much at higher temps (e.g. grey J-B Weld). Silicone RTV glues (e.g. aquarium cement) can withstand heat up to about 500F. Polyurethane glues are essentially permanent and must be mechanically removed.
  23. Bob Blarney
    Try making a plate from model plywood from Midwest Products. The 1/8" plywood is surprisingly strong.
  24. Bob Blarney
    Mike, it sounds like either machine would suit your needs.
  25. Bob Blarney
    Umm, which sander?

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