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Bob Blarney

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  1. Bob Blarney
    After years of owning Canon film cameras, I've found that my Samsumg cellphone camera can do about 85% of all photos that I might take. It's always in my pocket if not in my hand, and since I use it all of the time, I don't forget how to use all of its features. That works for me.
  2. Bob Blarney
    Lextin, That appears to be an industrial workbench/assembly table, with a glued-up top of 2 1/4" thick maple strips. The glue joints have failed because of exposure to extremes of temperature and humidity. The top will never stabilize until it's in a controlled environment such as in your house and not in a barn. It is possible to fully recondition by regluing the strips, but to do that it is necessary to separate the strips, scrape off all of the old glue, rejoint the strips, and then reglue/clamp them. And then it will be necessary plane the surface true.So maybe you don't want to do all of that. Well, I would set the base up level in your workroom and lay the top on 'as is', and then I'd wait a month or two, or a season or two (you can use the bench, just don't try to 'fix' it yet). If the top levels out, then I would lay down a sheet of 1/4 to 3/4" MDF and screw it down on the centerline, about every 6-8 inches.
  3. Bob Blarney
    I was taught to 'cross-multiply and then divide." I can do that in my head to this day. e.g. 3:32 = 5:X 3/32 = 5/X 32 times 5 = 160 160 divided by 3 = X = 53.3333
  4. Bob Blarney
    For something like this, try a jeweler's supply, such as C.R. Hill on 11 MIle Rd in Berkley Michigan. The quality is good as anywhere, and the prices are reasonable if not better than anywhere else.
  5. Bob Blarney
    Thanks for the info about Sawbird blades. I'll consult them for advice. I was just using my cheapo Ryobi scrollsaw to cut 1/8" aluminum plate. I did ok considering what I had at hand, an 18tpi blade and mineral oil for lubrication, but it got wiggly and then the line needed significant straightening with a curved-tooth file.
  6. Bob Blarney
    This might be of interest: http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Binding/MacRostie_Binding_Trimmer.html
  7. Bob Blarney
    Yes, it's mechanically elegant, with very chunky phosphor-bronze pivots for the acme-threaded elevation and bevel screws and the arbor bracket too. The action is extremely smooth with no noticeable backlash, and unless I'm making a super-critical cut, it's not necessary to lock down the handwheels, either. It just stays put. There's a couple of other things worth mentioning too. I leveled the entire saw carefully on a even, sturdy flat base (I didn't just set the saw on an uneven floor with the wings flush to the top), because over time (months/years) the top will tend to warp. Also, the cabinet is sitting on a 1/2" thick polyurethane floor mat, which absorbs vibration very well, thus making for smoother cuts and less noise. I also lubed the mechanism with Tri-Flow, which dries out to leave a teflon coating that doesn't gum up with dust. I would like to paint the top's underside and cabinet's inside with Rustoleum white or safety yellow, because it makes it much easier to see if adjustments are needed or if something - e.g. the arbor nut - falls down inside. But unfortunately it's winter and I don't like to sand and paint with Rustoleum inside the basement. I am making a blade shroud with a dust port to extract dust more efficiently.
  8. Bob Blarney
    Hmm, it seems that I've created a challenge for myself. Well ok, but right now I'm installing new arbor bearings in a 1956 Yates American table saw - a battleship-quality instrument But what I'll tell you about what I've noticed, is that although a tablesaw is wonderful, but other times it's a waste of time to set up and it blows dust everywhere. I'd guess that for many modelers, that they have limited space to pursue the craft, and maybe they'd like to enjoy the craft with other persons in the room, who might not be enthusiastic or comfortable in a big shop environment.
  9. Bob Blarney
    Having thought it over, I think I could get by without it, if I'm not doing production work. For most modelers, speed/convenience of production is not so important as the finished piece of 'lumber'. I'll see if I can develop handtool methods that could work, with reasonable precision. What are the most usual stock dimensions of model 'lumber'? Is it about 12-16" long, 3/4" thick, and about 3/32" thick? What's the thinnest lumber needed?
  10. Bob Blarney
    I trace out the saw on a piece of 3/4" pine board, and then add 3/4" all around. Then I glue a 3/4" x 1/4" strip on the tooth-side of the tracing. Then I drill and embed a couple magnets into the board and stick the saw to the magnets. The wooden strip on the tooth-side locates the saw on the board and protects the teeth. Then you can screw the board to the wall, or carry it around as needed. I also have made a 'holster' for my japanese saws, sort of like a six-gun belt holster. It works for me.
  11. Bob Blarney
    George, for scratch building, a table saw may not be the best or necessary tool for you. For many years, I had a lust for power tools, and I still peruse the glossy tool-porno catalogs ("If I only had this, then I could do that...") I think that you could do well with hand tools that you'll find useful for many things. My starting list of handtools for this genre of work would be: A sturdy workbench: it doesn't matter what it looks like -- just that it doesn't rock or wiggle, and the top is flat & level, and that you can clamp and screw down things on to it -fixtures, jigs, and parts, A vise that holds things for you (, instead of a vice that holds you!). I have a nice small Record vise, but this might not be a bad choice for limited funds: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-half-inch-table-swivel-vise-97160.html Machinist rules: thick & stiff 6, 12, 18 inches, chrome satin plated, etched (not printed), and they're not too expensive if you know where to look. machinists' engineer squares, 2-6 inches, A low-angle block plane, e.g. a Stanley 60-1/2 or 102/103 a japanese-style handsaw: Shark or Vaughan (most X-acto or Zona saws blades are too effete) a mechanical pencil or three; Staedtler 0.3, 0.5, 0.9 mm an Olfa snap-off knife. or a similar thing. I could go on... I think it is possible to build a mechanism to cut thin lumber with these tools.
  12. Bob Blarney
    George, A table saw is a great convenience, but it can also be a great annoyance. Do you have experience with a table saw? If not, I suggest that you read Bob Sorenson's article about tablesaw operation (and if you have experience read it anyway ). I've been lurking here for a while and considering whether to build a ship model or not. (I've built several ships-in-bottle with nothing more than a knife, scissors, paintbrush, and a coathanger.) Most of my experience is home improvement woodwork, furniture and guitar building. That said, my tablesaw cost $200 a few years ago on Craigslist. It is a compact Yates-American M1701 cabinet saw from 1956, and was very well designed and built, with a TEC motor, and on the left side it has a 4" jointer and a 10" disc sander. On the right side, the designers included a provision to mount a router. It is a marvelous sturdy machine that is perfect for a home shop. (Bragging aside,) I think that you might find a serviceable used saw, if you're patient. Follow the second-hand market, and ask your family and acquaintances. If you find something interesting, go to vintagemachinery.org and look around for other examples and for the manufacturer's manuals.
  13. Bob Blarney
    I liked the tutorial very much. The technical advice is pertinent for cutting any dimensions of wood. Here's one little tip that you might like, that you can use with a table saw or any other machine: When cutting very small pieces, there is a tendency for the pieces to jam and become marred, or they may fly away to places unknown. To avoid that, you might place a bit of screen (1/4" hardware cloth or flyscreen) over the end of a vacuum hose, and then place the hose near to the blade (with a mechanical support as prudence suggests). When the tiny piece is separated from the stock, the vac will capture it against the screen.
  14. Bob Blarney
    So, no power tools? Not even the Byrnes TS?
  15. Bob Blarney
    I use my scrollsaw for convenience, but I rely upon my bandsaw. As for finishing tight curves and internal holes, a coping or jeweler's saw can do that.
  16. Bob Blarney
    Can you find a DeWalt? Have a look here, at Steve Garrison's work:
  17. Bob Blarney
    Hmm, after looking up the machine on vintagemachinery.org (formerly owwm.org), I'd advise that you should consider making an additional 'foot' or three, to fit under the base bar rods of the lathe. That would reduce excessive movement.
  18. Bob Blarney
    Hmm, 'portable' bandsaws are for the men of metal (e.g. plumber, steel fabricator). The Byrnes saw looks like a very good machine, and if your interests are mainly limited to small work then I think it would be an excellent choice. (If you want to see another table saw from the age of fine American machines, look up the Hammond Glider.) Just another few comments about bandsaws: It may be that advances in blade technology have overcome the breakage problem of smaller than 12" saws, but I'll still keep my 14" D/M. BTW, my advice is to avoid three-wheeled benchtop bandsaws; they're horrible. Fletch944t: Somewhere I have a pic of when I resawed boards of 3/4" x 9.5"x 48" grenadillo boards (very hard wood) for guitar backs & sides using the 14" Delta-Milwaukee with a 6" riser block. I cut off slices about 3/32" thick x 9.5" wide x 48" long. The blade was a 105" Lenox Trimaster, which I'd found for $6 at a hardware store. Unfortunately, that wonderful blade wasn't really suited to such a small saw as the 14", and it broke after a few months, and it was never the same after it was professionally re-welded. When I priced out a new blade from Lenox, I discovered the price is $1.80 >per inch<! (Ouch!) I wish that I had saved it for very special cuts, because it was an amazing blade.
  19. Bob Blarney
    Your comment about sharpening is important. The 'best' and most expensive tools are useless unless they're sharp. Before you buy the tools, think about how you'll sharpen them. If you'd like to delve into making your own custom tools, go to a yard sale for spade bits (or buy a set new for $10-20 at the Orange or Blue box store). They're good quality high-speed steel, come in a variety of useful widths and lengths, and have 1/4" shanks. Nowadays, usually they have hex shanks that fit into an easy-to-find handle, or you can just drill a dowel or winecork and glue them in. You can shape the spade bits with a white aluminum oxide grinding wheel (go easy and don't get them too hot), and then hone them with silicon carbide or diamond. Hacksaw blades are also useful for making fine and flexible knives. You can find info about shaping & tempering them in backissues of Popular Mechanics (on Google Books).
  20. Bob Blarney
    The 90-60 chuck is probably better, and is not expensive. But, I'll think that you'll find that the drillpress itself wobbles quite a bit, unless it has good bearings, is aligned, and is securely mounted on a study bench.
  21. Bob Blarney
    dgbot, It sounds to me that that company needs to spend some money on training before a very serious injury occurs that will cost them a lot of money, (or maybe you guys should consider the 'U' word....) I could say that a bandsaw is safer than any tablesaw. But I know that there aren't any 'safe tools' --- there are only cautious operators. Cap'n'Bob: i'd buy a tool that can do 80% of the work that I do, not just 25% more that I could imagine. As for bandsaws, I'd never buy less than a 12", ever. Small saws are too fussy and break blades at a harsh word. A 14" saw s a very good choice for all-around work. Mine's a Delta-Milwaukee from the '40s or 50s' -- it's sturdy, cuts precisely, runs great, and parts are available.
  22. Bob Blarney
    Luthiers are quite aware of the potential hazards of wood dust, especially of toxic woods. Health problems that arise from exposure include COPD due to inhalation of tiny particles (tiny <2 micron dust is 'not good') and the substances within the wood that cause allergenic reactions. Allergic reactions (typically respiratory or skin irritation) may occur during the first or any subsequent exposure, and the severity can be mild or terrible. Cocobolo and cedars are well known for this. Perhaps these links might be of interest. The first is from Bill Pentz, who is somewhat of an 'authority' about wood dust and amelioration: http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/ The second is a post of a HEPA-filtered dust collection system that I built a few weeks ago that works very well and was not very expensive. It occupies 12 sq in (30cm) of floor space. I've already built another one for a different area in my workshop: http://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3467
  23. Bob Blarney
    That looks like it will be useful. Lathes are extremely versatile. If the RPMs go high enough, then maybe you could make a saw table (use slitting blades) and a thickness sander. Just go easy and don't overload it.
  24. Bob Blarney
    Hi again. Just so we're all clear about it, I don't have any prejudice against power tools, but I've found that handtools are especially handy for smaller tasks, and many times are safer too. And they don't blow sawdust all over the place. As for the japanese saws, the Vaughan saws are quite good. Have a look at the site here, and also notice the 'Perfect Guide' on the last page. I picked up a returned one (with the saw too) on Amazon for $25. It works very well for finish carpentry such as moldings. I think I'm going to modify it with the magnetic tape too because it will make it easier to use and reduce the chance of damaging the sawblade. http://www.vaughanmfg.com/shopping/Departments/Bear-Saw-Hand-Saws.aspx?sortorder=1&page=1 You can also get a nice little saw from Harbor Freight, current for $9. I like this one very much for small work: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-flush-cut-saw-39273.html
  25. Bob Blarney
    Hmm, everybody should remember that very fine work was, and will be, done without electrically powered tools. Here's a handtool jig that I made last summer when my arm was broken and in a cast. (I couldn't use my '59 DeWalt radial arm saw safely.) It's for cutting slots in the fingerboard of musical instruments, and it works so well that I'm thinking about making a new iteration for mitering and beveling. It's quiet, doesn't create dustclouds, and cuts precisely. I would think that if you adapted my idea, then you'd have a very fine saw for ship modeling. http://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3378

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