Canute
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Everything posted by Canute
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EG, thanks for the info on the Mr Surfacer 500. I've been using Vallejo filler of late (marble dust in an acrylic medium, no odor). but it has a noticeable drying time. Works good, but takes time to dry. I like my Bondo Spot Putty, too. It has quite an odor, but it sets past and stays in place. -
EG, which blend are you using? I have some 500, but I think they have 1000 and 1200. They sure do fill the spaces nicely.
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Well done, Captain.
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Michael, it was just my comment based on what I'd seen in the past. Your diorama looks to be a fascinating vignette of the loco works. 😁
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Michael, interesting that they laid 2 complete sets of rails there. Most dual gauge I've seen(admittedly not many) would use 1 common rail and 1 rail for the narrow gauge. Your work on the rails looks impeccable.
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Mark, the real hard core builders have 2-4 builds going simultaneously. I've got 3 right now, 2 refrigerator cars and a covered hopper. All plastic kitbashes of basic cars into something modified to a greater or lesser degree. They're a lot of fun, re-engineering the basics into the desired cars.
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Coming along nicely, EG. Don't rush it.😁
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Nicely done with the metal process. The reflectivity is very good. I wouldn't expect mirror finishes on operational jets, unless they were going to an airshow and they'd buff up everything. Thank God for camouflage paint jobs; no shining that stuff up, unless you're the Thunderbirds/Blue Angels and similar demo teams. Yeah, the frequent updates here in this sub-forum are crowding out the actual ship builds. You can't follow these builds on the front page. I'm OK with that. The techniques discussed here are applicable to most modeling disciplines working with styrene and other materials. Model on!
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OC, you may want to look at coating your decals with Microscale Liquid Decal Film. Prevents older decals from breaking up. Some of the others may chime in about maybe using a stronger setting solution. I have a bottle of Solvaset, put out by a defunct maker of pretty thick decals. If you have a hobby shop nearby that's open, maybe they could give you a steer (if its an older person who knows how to apply decals).
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Denis, keep on truckin' with this beastie. It's a definite novelty.
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Nice catch with the void in the tail.That may have even been a section of titanium. Most jets, of slightly newer vintage in that era, and later, had some in those hot areas.
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Mike, read EGs F-104 build about his clear coverings over BMF. Some of the hobby formulations may darken your finish. He seems to like the Liquitex varnish.
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Really fine job on those cockpits, Mike. And ditto about the canopies. Dip, do not brush.
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Tiger 1 by marktiedens - FINISHED - Dragon - 1/35 scale
Canute replied to marktiedens's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Vinegar (mild acetic acid) may be better. Try not to touch the parts with bare fingers afterwards; you may transfer skin oils. -
I like your testing, EG. The pictures are good examples. I've read of folks doing this, but they don't show enough examples.
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F-86F-30 Sabre by Javlin - FINISHED - Kinetic - 1/32
Canute replied to Javlin's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I'm in too. Don't think they came in anything but BMF (unless you do it as a USN Fury). -
Nieuport Ni-17 by cog - Eduard - 1/72 - PLASTIC and PE
Canute replied to cog's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I've heard that from other folks, too. -
Tiger 1 by marktiedens - FINISHED - Dragon - 1/35 scale
Canute replied to marktiedens's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Get some Canopy Glue. It's a thick white glue that dries clear. Find it at RC airplane shops. Or some of the Aleene's Tacky glues. They have several different formulations. I used the Extra Tacky to glue styrene to wood. Had to clamp that since the wood was a small structure and I think it absorbed the glue faster than I could stick the plastic to it. -
Impressive gatehouse, Ekis. Well done.
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Nieuport Ni-17 by cog - Eduard - 1/72 - PLASTIC and PE
Canute replied to cog's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
You're a brave man to work with 1/72 PE cockpit details, although I must say they do add some nice parts. Hope they're visible after you closed up the fuselage, too. -
Carl, thanks. I ended up with a bottle of pigment for Burnt metal, because I didn't realize they made them as a paint and a pigment. Lesson learned.
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EG, the black gloss or a dark grey gloss undercoat works well. I like the steel over black on the exhaust nozzle. Looks familiar to me. Great job showing your testing, too. 👌 I have a train buddy who was a master at doing the various shading of natural metal finishes, when he was an IPMS maven. He liked working with the various Alclad shadings. I think you may need several shades of the paint Carl references and apply panel by panel to get the variations you seek. I've read this technique on several aircraft modeling sites. Carl, are these paints or dry pigments you apply over the base coat?
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Kevin has the key, a gloss undercoat. Which metal paint are you using, EG? Canopy glue should be good for the PE. I haven't used TG for PE. I have used it for gluing styrene to wood. The canopy glue is like a thick white glue that dries clear and has some flexibility after it dries. I've glued PE running boards to plastic freight cars. Better than superglue, which can get brittle as it ages or gets cold.
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Going to look good, OC. Starter units were always at a premium. Never enough to cover all needs.
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Got some spring clamps to hold that together? Keeps the bands off the seams. It's a big model.
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