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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Nice Mustang, Lou. Minimum filler is nice. Less loss of some of the inset and scribed details. 👍 Yes, Airfix had a reboot some years back and their products are much improved.
  2. Makes sense cost-wise, since MIG is in Spain.
  3. I read it on, I think. Cybermodeler? May have been on a MRR site, too. Don't know who the primary maker is. I suspect Badger/Stynylrez
  4. Denis, it's a mid 60's Vette. 77 was Mako shark. I flew with a guy who had one of those Stingrays. Nice!
  5. I like "bent wing birds". The original Corsair is one of my faves.
  6. Lou and everybody. Prime with a light color (white/gray?pale yellow). Yellows and reds are translucent colors, so the primer is needed. Then, paint the yellow areas. Finally, paint the darker color(s). Always paint light to dark. I tried to paint a black item with red once upon a time; gave it up as a lost cause. Stripped the shell, primed and it looked much better.
  7. Reds and yellows are very translucent, so a light color underneath is a must. I have a modeling friend who has used a Badger yellow primer under the reds he paints freight cars. It's Stynylrez or you may find it in Europe under the AMMO by MiG label.
  8. Lou, if you are going to be bending ladder stiles and other long, thin brass pieces a "Hold and Fold" (https://thesmallshop.com/products/sms002-the-bug-hold-fold)or similar will be handy. For most of what goes into aircraft and armor, the pliers should be adequate. I have one , but the ladder stiles on an HO boxcar should be straight (well, most of the time) and this tool in handy to work with.
  9. I'm going counter flow, I like the North Afrika scheme, but it's your baby, Carl.
  10. Another Popeye build. I'm in. Kind of like the Baron's scheme, but Udet's is good, too.
  11. You could scuff it up with sandpaper, the color is too uniform. Then put some light washes on.
  12. I did one real ground egress from a Phantom once. Crew chief called Fire as we were doing a cartridge start. Clouds of black smoke. No time to be asking "are you sure". We just did our heavily practiced ground egress out of the cockpit and climbed up on the left intake, down the side of the engine, across the wing and off the wing tank. We're standing behind the crew chief going where's the fire, boss? He turns around and and says "you had a flame flicking out of the engine". I said yeah, how many cart starts have you done so far today. He said a number. I said the crud build up on the cart breeches and it lit off. Probably should have done an air cart start to clean the breech out. 😁
  13. Carl, easy to do. I had to look up the Messerschmidt info for after the war. It was convoluted. The Baron must have liked the maneuverability of the Dr I over the VII, with those short wings.
  14. Mark, one of those "unintended consequences". The tankers had parachutes for us crew dogs, pax were out of luck. We were supposed to blow the crew entry door in the forward fuselage, which shot a panel down below the fuselage. We opened the deck grate, after donning our harnesses & chutes and jumping thru the hole. The panel was supposed to disrupt airflow so we wouldn't hit the belly of the tanker. Don't know if anybody ever did it, probably similar the the helo bailout procedures. The Phantom had superb Martin-Baker ejection seats.
  15. I second your suggestion/recommendation, OC. Good fit.
  16. Art, just be careful with these cements and fillers. They give off volatile organic compounds. One reason I went for the Vallejo filler, no odors. The acetone and other chemicals give me a buzz (not a fun one, either), so I mask up with a good 3M product to eliminate the effects. Have fun; you've fallen into a fun "rabbit hole".
  17. Steven, you're correct, but then it's almost like you're fighting a helicopter. I'd run out a minute or two away from the Harrier, getting lots of knots. Then, pitch back into the Harrier and take a standoff shot with a radar or IR missile. Go quickly to guns and be ready to strafe. I think we only fought with some Marine AV-8s once, so my experience is limited. More time versus F-5, 15,16, F-100, A-7, F14, F18. It was fun.
  18. BMW made radial engines for the German a/c. They did make some a/c motors in WW I and made other engines after that war. They built motorcycles and began making cars in 1928. During WW II they stuck with their a/c engines. Post war they eventually restarted making motorcycles and autos. BF became Messerschmidt after Dr Willy of that name. They ended up making some cars after the war. We even had some here in the 50s. They did make license built a/c and eventually merged with two other companies making helicopters until bought out by EADS.
  19. Start with a sharp Exacto knife with plenty of #11 blades - cut parts off sprues, don't tear. Clean up the joints after a dry fit (if needed) and make sure the nibs are gone, too. Some older kits have flash at the edges , usually due to old, warn dies. Get some liquid cement to assemble the kit. I like Tamiya Extra Thin (green label) for gluing. It has a small brush inside the cap. This glue is mostly acetone (welds styrene very nicely), but it's volatile. Other guys should chime in on their favorite glue, too. Keep the parts clamped until the glue sets. Check the seams and fill if necessary. I like Vallejo filler, but the others will chime in with their faves. Follow the instructions for your first few kits. This should get you started, Art. Have fun.
  20. He also banned an older air to air missile we carried, because it was a "hit 'em in the heart" infrared guided weapon. They were designed for non maneuvering bomber type a/c; obviously useless in dogfights. I carried them in Europe and wasn't impressed, for the most part.
  21. The crew of that Apache will, too. Aviation is hours of boredom interspersed with moments of stark terror.😲 DO NOT ASK me how I know. And no, I've never bailed out of an airplane.
  22. Put those angle irons on the front to hack through the bocage. I forget what they were called for real. You armor experten can handle that stuff.
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