Canute
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B-25J Mitchell by Tom E - Revell - 1:48 Scale - PLASTIC
Canute replied to Tom E's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Tom, you can never have too much ammo for those bomber gunners. The yellow ring around the nose is pretty much a US standard for live ordnance. We still use that on free fall and precision guided weapons. The fuses (little propellers on the noses) are a metallic aluminum. Old USAF weapons officer and I did this stuff for 20 years. Hope this helps. -
Nice winter camouflage, Jack. Nice GI job.😁
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Andy, I'd imagine you'd need a "belt and suspenders" approach to heating those cars up your way, so dual systems makes lots of sense. I found better info on air conditioning systems on a couple of sites on Pullman operated cars. Anyway, very nice work.
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Andy, nice job with the vestibule and roof. The roof ends are some of the toughest sections to get correct, if done from scratch. Well done. The Kadees are a great idea, since they are more "scale". Making up into a beauty. That heavy line could also be used as the brake air line, too. Looks like they are on the correct side for the air line. If they have Baker stoves, they wouldn't be steam heating. Check the DRG&W wood coaches; they're of a similar vintage. I know they used Baker stoves.
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Sharp paint scheme, EG.
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Well done, Darrell.
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Nice little jewel.
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Bell UH-1H Huey By lmagna - Dragon - 1/35 - PLASTIC
Canute replied to lmagna's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I suspect your photo is closer to the reality of the day. Our a/c had a medium gray cockpit with black instrument panels. The round gauges had color marks for good and bad ranges. The radio and computer panels were generally scuffed, because so many feet got in there in the course of doing maintenance. The canopy rails were black, always good in SEA. Rest your arms on them and risk getting burned. Typical of many fighters. -
Well, it's pretty darn close, Mark. Maybe more like a kit-bash. The kit supplies sticks, tubing, wire, cordage and a handful of lead/pewter castings. Somewhere a lot of kit wood walked and I ended up acquiring a lot of replacement packs. Been pulling dimensions from the plans for the deck house. I'm gonna replace the provided wood sticks for the house siding with some Evergreen Novelty siding. Sometimes called ship-lap siding. The marine equipment of many of the NY harbor railroads used the stuff on their craft. Puzzling over the windows and doors. May replace the sticks with some plastic castings that actually look like windows and doors. In this scale , I'm wondering if cutting the 2" x 6" planking into 24' lengths would be worth the effort; too small to see the difference
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Thanks, guys. It's pretty new. More intricate than the deck scow I also have in work. That's a laser cut kit, with no rigging; this one is a box of sticks. Only stuff pre-cut is the PE and this kit's brass is thicker than the PE we work with nowadays. It'll be fun.
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Thanks, Bob. The deck will get cluttered with hose and some pilings, along with the fixed mast, lifting boom and pile driving mechanism. The deck scow I'm also working on will end up with some kind of cargo, maybe some cement canisters and building materials. There are a number of items I can use.
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Excellent job.👍 And it'd be a sin to waste that fine Irish whiskey.
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EG, I like the icy roads theme. My Dad wad a 3rd Army MP directing the armor north from Metz, in France, toward Bastogne. I wandered that area when I was stationed there. Heavily wooded, some old stone bridges and a high crown on the road. Yeah, they would have slid off into the ditches. Brr, just thinking about that. Got any jalapenos for those nachoes? 😁🤣
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Bell UH-1H Huey By lmagna - Dragon - 1/35 - PLASTIC
Canute replied to lmagna's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
A macabre sense of humor was pretty typical. Some F4Es had armor plate over areas on the belly of the jet, supposedly to protect things like the generators and lox bottle. The fuel was in the wings and fuselage and had self sealing tanks and some kind of foam in the tanks. The armor plate disappeared in combat. Too much excess weight for negligible protection. We aircrew always said we'd be done in by the golden BB, i.e., when your time was up, the game was over. Very fatalistic. Our protection was our speed versus the forces down south. Over North Viet Nam, eyeballs, speed and hopefully the jamming pods we carried were our protection. -
Started planking the hull sides, but ran into a bit of a quandary. I suspect the hull former, a piece of plywood, is pretty dried out due to it's age. I think my glue seeped into the wood too fast. I'm using an Aleene's extra tacky glue; this glue feels like working with the old Duco cement, without the odor. I applied the Aleene's glue, but by the time I could lay a strip down, the glue seemed dry. No stickiness. I had one suggestion for sealing the wood with glue and letting it dry. Expect it should work; it's what I do if gluing metals to wood with CA. My plan is to glue the bottom planking around the hull and paint it anti fouling red. The rest of the planking will just be stained brownish black.
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Tamiya always produces nice kits. Looking forward to following this, Jack. You doing any aftermarket goodies or will you go with what's in the box? Can't imagine needing much of anything.
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EG, very nice tutorial. May give it a shot for paint stripping
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Nice work on this Alfa, Grant. Looks very good.
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Work carefully cleaning up the flash, some of it may be attachment points for other parts. I use an #11 blade and a number of various grades of sanding sticks for cleanup. I use Vallejo putty to fill gaps, as do a number of the other modelers on this site.
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Sometimes they'd put control locks in the cockpit to prevent the surfaces from flopping around. Big old red painted locks, so the tyro pilot couldn't miss that part.
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It'll be for a layout model, Edward. I'm working up a small NY City harbor station of the railroad I model. It was a vest pocket yard on the Bronx Boro side of the Harlem River. Right now it's a foundation with a few tracks and a float bridge. Kind of novel station, since it had an oval freight house.
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Here's another work barge, although this one had multiple uses. It was moved by tug and could be used as a lifting crane or pile driver. These usually weren't railroad owned; several contractors would have a number of these barges. I picked this up a number of years ago, but it was buried under whatever other accumulated stuff I'd collected over the years. I put the instructions into a binder to prevent any further losses. I did have to gather up a good collection of stripwood, since some of the kit stuff went over the hills and far away. The kit brass held up pretty well, seems to have minimal corrosion. The kit dates from 1986. The barge hull is a plywood former, to which I will be applying HO scale 2 x 6 inch planks. The following is is the rest of what comes in the box.
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Well, the little box is about done. I have the deck on and am installing the end railings. Have to make sure the side railings don't pinch the end pieces. Bollardsand cleats are next. Just have to paint up the resin parts. Also have some old tires to drape over the sides. These acted as fenders. On deck is another harbor work boat, a floating crane/pile driver.
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