Canute
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Everything posted by Canute
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Nice work, finessing the M1 track into the Chally. -
Very nice work, Michael. Those dinky engines are a fascinating study. PS. I do hope the engineer/Engine driver in that last is drinking some sarsaparilla. Else, he'd be violating Rule G of almost any railroad about intoxicants.
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Turned out well Jack. Looking good.
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Yeah, with snow like that, corners can be adventures. They usually make them 4 way stops, at least in the places I've been, like Anchorage, AK and Goose Bay, Newfoundland.
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Quite the looker, Craig. I think I'd like a bit more stability of 4 wheels versus 2 if I'm smokin along at 200.
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Rye Field Models. After you and, I think it was Craig (CDW), showed their kits, I was sold. Read a few reviews on some armor sites, too. I can do research, just not able to see well enough to do the fine bits and bobs you're working on. Got another month before my first op on right eye, then 2 more weeks for the left one. I'm already cranky from the lockdown and it's too darn cold outside with the wind event we've had going on around here. Most of the white stuff Jack and Denis got up north was a swing and a miss down here. We got a bare inch of mostly slush. It's -2C right now with a wind chill making it -9C.
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I have the TUSK II inbound. I think it does any one of 3 versions.
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They also had howitzers which could lob shell and shot. As already stated, fusing was hit or miss, although they preferred air-burst shells for antipersonnel use. For direct fire against attackers, they had grape shot, rather large lead balls. As we neared the American Civil War, case and canister were developed for antipersonnel use, with better fuses. Like General Sherman said, was is hell.
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Hmm, could be an issue. How thick is the MDF?
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Well done, Patrick. Turned out nicely.
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I have a Tamiya He 219 with a weight that the cockpit and nose gear are built around. If you are lucky, the kit instructions may tell you about how much to add, but most, especially older ones, don't.
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Very nice tip.
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OC, assuming you plan to go ahead with this vignette, you'd need a hole in the roof big enough to show the framework the slates were attached to inside the roof. Then, scorch the exposed wood framing and scatter the slates about, suitably broken in places.
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Was part of the roof thatched? The French may have set fire in the eaves. I think Ekis' first solution would be the one to go with. You could open a hole and make a wood lattice under the hole. Paint black, dark brown and dry brush some gray (for ashy parts of the rafters).
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MicroMark sells several chisels with rounded corners. Or you can save a few bucks and round off the corners of some exacto-type chisel blades. And strop the edges. Post removal of the details, super fine grit to smooth the surface.
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OC, I think the TUSK armor system is a replacement for that earlier system. But the TUSK system is kind of cool. I await your example.
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You going to do the "bed spring" standoff gear? I've seen some Strykers and such with that gear. A lot of PE.
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I'd bet S-M have a better steel in their blades. I like Excel over Exacto, they seem to hold an edge longer. Forcing the blades sideways will lead to breakage. At least, that's been my experience. I don't recommend using these blades for thicker stock, since they want to twist. A heavier blade or small saw is a better bet.
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That's about 4 football fields. Holy cow!
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I'll second Jack's recommendation. Like EG said, a lot of my work has some of my DNA on it, also. We don't need blood-stained wood in our models.
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We'll keep y'all in our prayers. And crank up your vitamin regimen, OC.
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Nicely done. Patrick.
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Right. It's a weathering technique, just isn't the usual dirt and rust buildups. Great technique for the jet exhausts.
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Craig, you've got the discoloration down nicely with those clear colors. Very impressive. 👍
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I tend to go for the thicker handles - big mitts. Not sure what brand of handle; could be either exacto or excel. Probably excel. I will say to use Excel blades, because they seem to use a better steel and hold their edge longer. I've tried scalpels with the thicker handles. They're good, but swapping blades is wonky.
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