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About Seahawk1313

  • Birthday 08/11/1948

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Islip,New York
  • Interests
    Federal Navy: Start to about 1825. the Subscription Ships. Carved Decoration on Early U.S. Naval Ships

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  1. Hello Gary, My son is into wargaming metal figures. He primes them with "The Army Painter" primer before he paints them. He has very good luck with it. I use the black primer for my tops and yards. I think it works well. The metal needs to be primed. - Hal
  2. Hi Patrick- I soak the piece good, and wet the block just before I put it in the microwave , to keep the form from getting too hot . Microwave time may need to be played with.-Hal
  3. Your ship is coming along very nice. As for bending wood, I do almost the same but I soak the wood before I bend it on a form. then I mircowave it for about 45 seconds. I use this on Cherry up to 3/32 's. I use this method for the head rails and anything I need to bend. I use rubber bands to hold the piece to the form, nothing metal in the microwave,It would Not like that! LOL! - Hal
  4. Just an observation, many years ago, The boats I ran were still coppered, unless they were sitting for a while, the copper was bright as a new penny. The salt water acted like sand paper keeping it clean. The company switched to a type of plastic sheeting which was cheaper and lasted longer then the copper. Out of the water the copper browned and turned green quickly. - Hal
  5. Very nice. Just a note: Some topsail schooners used a horse (?) in front of the fore mast that the fore course yard rode up and down on so it didn't get in the way of the fore gaff. It was a rope set up in the top and a deadeye on the deck, this allowed the gaff to be lowered easily. found this in Chappelle's book on Baltimore Schooners. Almost ready to rig U.S. Schooners Enterprise and Experiment. I'm still not sure how I'm rigging the Main Stay, a double stay rigged to the deck with block and tackle. Interesting subject - Hal
  6. I would put cleats on all topmast shrouds, if you put sails or the rigging for sails, you will need belaying points. Learned the hard way that I under estimate the number of belaying points that are needed- Hal
  7. I believe it was common to have a rope ladder or a knotted rope aft the mast to get higher, at least on U S Frigates.-Hal
  8. Welcome Aboard, A great book that would help you is: HMS Beagle, The Story of Darwin's Ship by Keith S. Thomson. A lot of detail on the ship and the voyages.- Hal
  9. Hi Richard, For making I bolts, I mount a small length of brass wire ( .020) or slightly larger in a piece of dowel. then bent the end into a slight hook. I cut brass wire into 1 or 1 1/2 Lengths.. then loop the wire over the the hook and turn the wire to make the eye with pliers or something similar . I use 26 or 28 Gauge wire. All my builds are 1/96. I hope this is understandable- Hal
  10. Just a note, When the Fox deck plan is scaled to the Chesapeake plans, they match well ( gun ports, deck width to length). There is a minor difference with the position of the Main Mast and the Mizzen , about 5 or 6 inches. This is why I think Fox's deck is for the Chesapeake. If I remember correctly, It didn't work for the Philadelphia when I tried it on her plans- Hal
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