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davec

NRG Member
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About davec

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Richmond, VA
  • Interests
    Scratch built plank on frame

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  1. I don't paint my models and have been really happy with minwax wipe-on poly. It is easy to apply and clean up. I haven't used it on traditional pear, but have on swiss pear, boxwood, cherry, and ebony, and have been happy with how it turned out. I don't use it on holly as it gives a yellow tinge to the white color- I've been using minwax polycrylic over holly.
  2. It looks like it is the first of two parts. The full title includes "Part 1: the material remains and archeological context." According to the book's foreword, a second volume on the contextual analysis is planned.
  3. On the inner side, the lower edge of the plank should only be rolling beveled at the bow and stern. It should be full thickness for the bulk of its length. This allows the planks to lie flush at the bow and stern. The overlap for most of the length should be full thickness. This gives the clinker appearance and was probably important for holding fasteners when building full sized boats.
  4. A little more work done. I've removed the hull from the building jig, and added the false stem, side cleats, and seat risers. I've also cut out the bands, milled some 1/16" square stock for the gunwales, and sharpened my chisels in preparation for trimming the frames for the gunwales.
  5. wow - I've tried that and have not been able to get anything close to the precise shape you were able to do.
  6. I use cotton cloth for easy to reach areas and a brush to get into tight areas. Both work fine.
  7. Back in business - shear planks replaced. I've been afraid to look at how much glue I will need to clean up on the inside, but the outside cleaned up well enough that I think I can use a clear finish. I'm trying to decide between swiss pear, cherry, and natural pear for the contrasting wood. I really like swiss pear, but am thinking of going with one of the other woods just so it looks different from my other models.
  8. Agree that some testing would be in order. As long as the paint adheres over the clear finish, would think about applying the clear first. Seems like sealing the wood would make it less likely that the thinned paint will soak into wood in places beyond where you brush it.
  9. Engine in place, and finally feeling like things are moving along. Not happy about most of the engine wiring and didn't spend a lot of time with extra detail in the engine compartment as none of it would be visible. I'm looking forward to the next WNW build as I think I can finally wire the engine in a way that does it justice. I've got the insides of the fuselage painted and will hopefully glue it together later today. I test fitted and everything still closes up OK with the engine installed.
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