Jump to content

davec

NRG Member
  • Posts

    339
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About davec

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Richmond, VA
  • Interests
    Scratch built plank on frame

Recent Profile Visitors

2,501 profile views
  1. On the inner side, the lower edge of the plank should only be rolling beveled at the bow and stern. It should be full thickness for the bulk of its length. This allows the planks to lie flush at the bow and stern. The overlap for most of the length should be full thickness. This gives the clinker appearance and was probably important for holding fasteners when building full sized boats.
  2. A little more work done. I've removed the hull from the building jig, and added the false stem, side cleats, and seat risers. I've also cut out the bands, milled some 1/16" square stock for the gunwales, and sharpened my chisels in preparation for trimming the frames for the gunwales.
  3. wow - I've tried that and have not been able to get anything close to the precise shape you were able to do.
  4. I use cotton cloth for easy to reach areas and a brush to get into tight areas. Both work fine.
  5. Back in business - shear planks replaced. I've been afraid to look at how much glue I will need to clean up on the inside, but the outside cleaned up well enough that I think I can use a clear finish. I'm trying to decide between swiss pear, cherry, and natural pear for the contrasting wood. I really like swiss pear, but am thinking of going with one of the other woods just so it looks different from my other models.
  6. Agree that some testing would be in order. As long as the paint adheres over the clear finish, would think about applying the clear first. Seems like sealing the wood would make it less likely that the thinned paint will soak into wood in places beyond where you brush it.
  7. Engine in place, and finally feeling like things are moving along. Not happy about most of the engine wiring and didn't spend a lot of time with extra detail in the engine compartment as none of it would be visible. I'm looking forward to the next WNW build as I think I can finally wire the engine in a way that does it justice. I've got the insides of the fuselage painted and will hopefully glue it together later today. I test fitted and everything still closes up OK with the engine installed.
  8. Thanks everyone for the comments and thumbs ups. The woodwork is just artists oils. I've used Rob's tip about the photoetch before (great tip) but on this one most of the openings were easy to thread through except one that was so tight that the belt needed trimming. Belts are installed and I've finished as far as the end of step 2. There is some rigging, which will be completely invisible once the fuselage is buttoned up (as will most of the other detail). I've been careful scraping paint and test fitting, and the fuselage seems to close up without a lot of tension. I have some business travel coming up, but am hoping that after 8 weeks of slow progress on the cockpit that it will start to look like an airplane in a few weeks.
  9. looks great! I can never get my brushing to look that good.
  10. Congratulations on finishing. The model came out beautifully. Glad she will be displayed somewhere a lot of people can see her.
×
×
  • Create New...