davec

I guess the likes indicate a yes.  I bought this kit a couple years back from ebay.  This is the original version of the kit.  In hindsight, I overpaid as you can now get the re-issued kit for about 125 bucks, with PE parts.  Oops.  At least the version I have includes the "John Player Special" decals as it was produced just around the time tobacco advertising was being banned in a few places, but not all over.  The current kit is referred to only as the "type 78" on the box and I assume does not have the JPS decals, though they are available from third party suppliers.
 
I've just started a bit on planning the build and started assembling some of the body parts in preparation for painting.  As with other older Tamiya kits, I am expecting a few fit issues and there are also some rather nasty ejector pin marks to deal with.   I'll likely build it mostly out of the box, with some third party seat belts, braided steel lines instead of the kit supplied rubber hoses, and maybe a few other things.
 
And this will be the third time I build a Tamiya Ford DFV engine, as I have already built the Lotus 49 and Lotus 72D. 
 

Any interest out there in a build log for another Tamiya 1/12th scale F1 car?

Next up will be the Kotare Spitfire Mk.Ia.  I usually build my world war 2 planes in 1/48, but have been really happy with the wingnut wings kits and wanted to try Kotare, which is the company that some of the WNW designers and engineers moved to when WNW folded.  I got a good deal on it at the local IPMS show in February.  I will build the AC Deere "Kiwi" plane because I like the kiwi on the side and the black and white underside.  Given the quality of the kit, I don't plan much in the way of aftermarket.  I got the HGW seatbelts because I like them a lot more than photoetch and eduard masks because trying to mask canopies drives me up a wall.  I'm also going to try some camouflage masks.  Will probably be a little time before I make any progress - I have some work and family stuff coming up and want to make some progress on the two boats I'm working on.
 

Paul and Chris - many thanks.  I picked the scheme because of the bright colors.  The other decal choices that came with the kit were all based around the standard British olive drab.  This one was a lot more fun and looks good in the display case.
 
I didn't take many pictures between the last ones and now, but it is finished.  The rigging took a few evenings and painting was complete on the other parts, so it came together very quickly.  I'm overall very pleased with how it came out, and learned a lot, especially with the decals.  I really love these wingnut wings kits.
 
  

Next up will be the Kotare Spitfire Mk.Ia.  I usually build my world war 2 planes in 1/48, but have been really happy with the wingnut wings kits and wanted to try Kotare, which is the company that some of the WNW designers and engineers moved to when WNW folded.  I got a good deal on it at the local IPMS show in February.  I will build the AC Deere "Kiwi" plane because I like the kiwi on the side and the black and white underside.  Given the quality of the kit, I don't plan much in the way of aftermarket.  I got the HGW seatbelts because I like them a lot more than photoetch and eduard masks because trying to mask canopies drives me up a wall.  I'm also going to try some camouflage masks.  Will probably be a little time before I make any progress - I have some work and family stuff coming up and want to make some progress on the two boats I'm working on.
 

Great to see your progress - coming along beautifully!

Great to see you back at work on the model.  Coming along beautifully!
 
Dave

Great to see your progress - coming along beautifully!

Great to see your progress - coming along beautifully!

Great to see your progress - coming along beautifully!

Great to see your progress - coming along beautifully!

Paul and Chris - many thanks.  I picked the scheme because of the bright colors.  The other decal choices that came with the kit were all based around the standard British olive drab.  This one was a lot more fun and looks good in the display case.
 
I didn't take many pictures between the last ones and now, but it is finished.  The rigging took a few evenings and painting was complete on the other parts, so it came together very quickly.  I'm overall very pleased with how it came out, and learned a lot, especially with the decals.  I really love these wingnut wings kits.
 
  

Thanks Greg for this clear explanation - your approach to the chocks makes a lot of sense - I have been using the drawings to make these to this point, so I'll try your technique. I've already got the mechanical 2mm lead holder and hard leads but maybe a new disc sander is in my future....Thanks again - this is very helpful!
hamilton

Well, practice does indeed make perfect. It's super important to make sure the ends of the futtocks are the same width and flat over their mating surface with no gaps between them. If you have a Byrnes disk sander this is easy. If not you'll need to get good with a super sharp chisel. I wouldn't use the printed pattern to make the chock as the joint may vary slightly from the pattern. My process is to glue the two futtocks together on top of the pattern and allow to dry. Then place an index card under the joint and trace out the actual chock shape using a mechanical clutch pencil sharpened to a super fine point. Don't worry about the inboard shape for now. Now transfer the card pattern to the properly oriented wood and cut out. The chock should now fit snugly into the joint. Then you can glue it in place. Finally, after dry, trim the inboard face.
 
If you are planning to build several wooden models in the future I can't stress enough how much the Byrnes disk sander (or Proxxon) will improve your work. It's an investment that pays off in accuracy and time saved over the years.
 
Staetler Mars Technical pencil 2mm (780) and Sharpener (502)

I've now constructed the first two frames - deadflat and deadflat 1. There is still a fair amount of cleaning up and refining to do, but for now I'm pretty happy with the results. The joints on deadflat 1 between the futtocks was pretty weak and I had to redo the chock to try to refine them, which was successful enough for the moment, but I really need to get a decent technique down for these joints so they are more secure....apart from "practice makes perfect" are there other things I should be doing to ensure better joints at the chocks?
 
In any case, there is still work to be done on both frames - I need to refine their profiles along the molded dimension, thin them on the molded dimension towards the toptimbers, file out notches for the sweep port sills and lintels on the aft face of deadflat 1 and add trunnels at the joints. Given the need to align the notches for the sweep ports, I will wait to raise deadflat 1 until frame 1-forward is complete, so I can mark these features out at the same time on both.
 
I also fixed the issue with the keel assembly noted above - I sliced off a short length of 1/16" boxwood from a thicker strip, fixed this to the end of the keel assembly and then shaped it with sanding blocks and files. Unfortunately I only have shots of the un-shaped extension attached to the assembly and not the finished piece - I'll see if I can show it more clearly in a future post.
 
In the meantime, here are some photos. Enjoy and bye for now
hamilton
 

Paul and Chris - many thanks.  I picked the scheme because of the bright colors.  The other decal choices that came with the kit were all based around the standard British olive drab.  This one was a lot more fun and looks good in the display case.
 
I didn't take many pictures between the last ones and now, but it is finished.  The rigging took a few evenings and painting was complete on the other parts, so it came together very quickly.  I'm overall very pleased with how it came out, and learned a lot, especially with the decals.  I really love these wingnut wings kits.
 
  

Fairing complete (I think).  The supports worked.  I was able to sand without anything coming loose, which was great as the boxwood was harder to sand than basswood would have been.  I'm ready to start marking out the strakes and starting planking.  The kit instructions use 1/8x1/32 basswood planks and edge bend them into place.  Not sure whether this is going to work with boxwood.  I'll give it a try, but cut the planks from 1/32" sheet so that if I need to spile some of the planks from sheet stock, the grain will all look the same.
 

Coming soon.   Resin cast barrels.
 
I have three sizes of cast resin barrels that will soon be available on my site.  Currently I have the 11/16" tall and the 1" tall barrels.  I am waiting for my casting guy to make the third smaller size.  I may even make a fourth smaller size later as well.
 

 
I have the two smaller sizes and I am waiting for the last larger size not shown. They are cast in white resin or a light tan like my carvings for the ship models I make.   This makes it so much easier to prepare than building my laser cut versions.   Those will still be available but these resin versions will give you guys more options.   These can be prepared in minutes...
 
Just clean whatever flashing which is minimal.   And remove the small vent hole plugs with a sharp #11 blade.   
 
Then brush on some gel stain...in my case pictured,  I used General Finishes Fruitwood gel stain as usual.   I have one coat of stain on these.  You can add more to deepen the color as you see fit.  Then I just used a black sharpie to color the raised iron hoops.   You could use any color you want for those as well.  You could use a copper leaf pen for example.   It isnt difficult....and takes just a few minutes vs. a much longer time to build my laser cut versions.
 
Each size will be sold two per package.
 
Its unfortunately too late for me to add these in the hold of Speedwell....but when you need to make a dozen or more barrels for the hold its nice to not have assemble them one at a time.
 

 
And Buckets...crates...and other items will soon follow.   And whatever else I can possibly think of...please let me know if you guys fancy something in particular.

Thanks EG, forgot about that. Next job then 👍🏻

Beautiful, with one exception, the front reduction gear cover should be grey... (your pics will give you the color) They were painted that way, (every single one) on the production line before they were ever shipped....

Hi all, 
 
So I've finished the engines, well almost, still the exhausts to add to the rear of them although I don't think they will be visible at all.
 
I'm pretty pleased with these though.
 

 
Shame that not too much is visible when built up... Dry fit test to see what they will look like reveals not much!
 

Hello, and many thanks for the likes
Today the carpenters build the grating over the lobby. All the beams are now fast, except the two in front of the bulwark.


One question, did anybody know what these encircled parts should be? But before I start with planking, I think I build the wheels.

Hello,
the last bulwark(?) between captains bed place and the lobby is installed. 



Before I install the deck beams I have to make a decision, where to place the cannons? All sources say, there where 8 6 pdrs at the QD and 2 6 pdrs at the FC. But I never saw a model with a cannons at the FC! At least there is not so much space for cannons.
 
That cannon to the left has the problem with the shrouds, and the cannon to the right with the hight of the fife rail.

At least I could place all cannons at the QD, without one in the captain cabin. That would make the captain happy. And that is what you see at most of the models. If no one has a veto, I think I build it so.

 

Hello,
my finger is so far useable again and so I finished today the bulwark.



 

On the left is the assembled pilot seat, on the right, all the parts that make up the RIO seat.
These seats build up as well detailed as any aftermarket seats I’ve bought in the past.