davec

Completion off the Fenders
 

 
Working on the stern
 

Just playing with the new camera I got for christmas  
 

Little by little, step by step we make progress and I must admit I'm pretty pleased the way that section has turned out, yes i'll keep touching up here and there aiming for perfection.
I'll have to stop here as I haven't any decking prepared ready so I'll be making some more.
 

 

 

Greetings Robert
Well here we go again !!!!! Cracking build and now we are treated to fine art work!!!!! and not a brush stroke to be seen. I did not dare take a close up like you have. Here's a photo of mine. OK !! it's jotikas really. I painted thin strip and glued it on, which it looks like jotikas have done DAVID

Ok, cleaned up the belfry roof
 

 
The Barricade Assembly in place.
 

 
I got a bit carried away and, well........ended up in a world of my own and achieved this thus far, I've started so I'll have to finish, right ?
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

A year to the day since I bought the kit, I am finished.  My only regret is I wish I would have kept track of my total hours worked.  Will do that next time.  Thanks for all the likes and kind words along the way.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm back to rigging my Hannah, and I'm trying to sort out the gammoning, which is different than larger ships. 
 
On the Hahn model in the US Navy Museum, the gammoning wraps around the bowsprit and stem (picture at http://www.dlumberyard.com/shipkits.html - it can be seen in the lower right image).  There does not appear to be any crossing of wraps as on larger ships, or wrapping of the end of the rope around the gammoning.  Marquard's Global Schooner book describes this for  ships with small cutwater and has a similar illustration, so it does appear to be accurate, although no specific reference is provided.  My question is how are the two ends of the rope fastened?  I suppose it could be started by passing through an eye splice, but how is the final end of the line fastened?
 
I'd appreciate any thoughts.
 
thanks!
 
Dave

All the spars have been shaped to 8-sided.  I worked on the main some more, taking it to 16 sides, then down to round.  The cheeks blended in well.  They stick out only on the sides to catch the shrouds.   The doubling is square and will be tapered very slightly and the tenon at the heel will be cut later.  After planing, it was sanded with 150, then 220 grit.
 

 

 
Merry Christmas and  Happy Holidays to all.
 
Maury

Another photo and Merry Christmas
 

 

 

Continuation.
 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

Been a bit since the last update.  Thanks for following along on this journey of discovery and sawdust and for the likes and the comments.
 
A bit of a minor/major milestone... the ship is in the cradle... YIPPEE!!!!!
 
The next step is start removing the build board and trimming down the frames to the sheer strake(s).  
 
I considered pedestals versus a cradle as I didn't want to stress the keel, etc .nor did I want to attempt to put a large baseboard on at this point.  The cradle just seems (to me) to be steadier and stronger.  I noted that I do seem to get some wobble on my Constellation which is on pedestals.  It could be my method of mounting is faulty or just the way it is with them.
 
The cradle is 1/4" mahogany (see photo).  After finessing it into position, assembling it and re-finessing, I drilled a 3/32" hole through the cradle and inserted a brass tube of the appropriate diameter.  I mounted the cradle into position, and drilled (using the tubing as a drill guide) a 1/16" hole through the keel, frames and keelson.  A brass rod was inserted with a light coating of epoxy.  When set, the cradles were set into place with more epoxy on the brass rod and in two places on each end of the cradle.  The structure seems sound and steady. 
 
I tried to design the cradle so as not to hide the lines of her and I think I pretty much succeeded.   At some point, the hole where the crosspieces go through the cradle will be covered by a small carving on each.  I'm leaning towards a fleur de lis.
 
Anyway, here's the pictures.
 

 

 

 

I wish Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all followers of my log .
And last post of this year - figurehead.

Thank you.
Only few details for today - chesstrees and fenders.

Thank you to all guys for very nice comments. Building of ship models is my big hobby that brings me a lot of joy. I am very happy that my model can bring some pleasure to you.
Next part - planksheer in the waist.

I think maybe I could have put a bit more sheer on the poop but I think I got the forecastle pretty right. A lot of contemporary illustrations show ridiculous amounts of sheer so I tried to be guided by the Trombetta pics.
Cheers. Dick

beginning underwater casing

I am without power tools for a while so I'm working on the spars.  I cut and sanded several pieces to the extreme width of each spar.  Next comes tapering them and then cutting them down to 8-sided.
 

 
that involves using the 7-10- 7 fan and planing down the four corners to 8.  You can see the lines as the stick lies in the jig (thank you Admiralty Models) ready for planing.
 

 
Maury

New Keel is being drilled for its bolts on the Sherline mill using the sensitive drill attachment.
Gives nice accurate placement.
7/8" Bolts will be simulated using 24ga copper wire that will be blackened later with LOS.
 
Ben

The Alaskan Yellow Cedar barge has been planked.  Still lots to do on this one.  I havent even faired the hull inboard yet.  But before the molding and red paint is added I thought this would give you guys a nice idea of how the yellow cedar looks.  I have just applied some wipe on poly.  You can see the cherry version behind it.   They are actually the exact same size but digital cameras do these funny things....
 

 
I would like to get the cedar version to the same point as the cherry version so I can progress with both simultaneously.
 
All the cedar is wood project source
 
 
Chuck
 

Finished what I could with is first try.
 

 
On this pair the left side scarph is broken. I first try to do it with a carving knife but when doing the flat part of the scarph the corner of the edge broke. The others were done with the mill. I guess I have to make a jig because even with the mill the angle of some of the flat parts scarph are wrong so the top timber doesn't align with the plans.
 

 
For the second pair the floor futtock is wrong. For some reason the right side of the floor is lower them the left one.
 
I'm still using this pair to train the chocks.
 
I've faired the frames to the inside of the line which I was already advised against...
 
So after trying the chocks is back to doing a new pair.
 
Thanks.

Hi all,
 
I have been following many off the logs for years now. I have built two ships and I'm half way through the Santissima Trinidad (kits) but I was always amazed with the models on the scratch build section... i finally mustered the courage to try one myself. The Triton cross section seemed the perfect candidate, not too big, not too small. And the Group Project give the necessary support to new people like me.I ordered the wood from the wood list in the first post and I started as soon as it arrived. I have the three peices from the first drawing ready and now request access to the rest of the plans.
 

 

 

 
A side note about the woods I'm using. Like I said I order the wood list from the topic's first post. I contacted two online stores and gave them the wood list. One of the stores said they didn't had some of the wood types I was requesting so I ordered the all lot in boxwood. This was the store that replied first. One day after paying I got the answer from the second store. They had all the wood types I wanted for a bit more them the first. Since I wanted to test different wood as well I proceeded with the second order. The problem was when the wood arrived. From the first store (just boxwood) the wood arrived like this:

All strips of wood in individual labeled bags. The wood from the second store arrived like this:

No labels with sizes or wood type which made it very difficult since I don't recognise the woods.
One other difference was the finishing the wood from the second store they weren't sanded

 
The biggest problem is that some the wood from the second store is not squared

The keel (in the image) was one of the strips that was not squared.
 
My question is: is this normal? Or this is something I should complain? Specially the not square thing, which just adds another level of complication...
 
Thanks in advance,
Anguirel

SANTA ARRIVED THIS MORNING!
 
Following the tracking online, I saw that my new band saw was "out for delivery".....so I figured it would show up some time this morning.
Knowing they always deliver to my front door with a covered porch, I printed this sign early and taped it to the front door......


 
So I get a knock on the shop door shortly after noon, and sure enough Santa has come to collect his cake and glass of cold milk.
 
He even helped me un-box the new toy!
Now sitting in it's new home with fresh sawdust already on the table top.
 

 
WHAT TIME IS IT?
IT'S SAWDUST TIME!
 
Merry Christmas all!

I had to redo some of the upper deck beams because I cut the notches for the carlings in the wrong places. It took a fair amount of time, but I didn't post anything because nothing looked different.  The upper deck beams and beam arms are now complete.
 
I spent some down time over the holidays working on the main brace bitt pins.  I roughed out the shape by scoring each beam on the table saw with a .018" blade set to the depth of where I needed to carve the shape to.  This gave me something to aim for, and worked better than marking the wood with pencil,.When I marking with pencil, it worked great on the first two sides, but the marks got shaved away on the other two sides.  I carved the shape  of the decorative portion with a chisel, then cut the 45 degree bevels. Once I figured out the relationships between the beams and bitt pins on the model, I cut the slots for the upper deck and bitt crossbeam.
 
For the sheave in the bitt pin, I drilled two holes and shaped the sheave with an escarpment file as described in the instructions. I made sheaves for the cheek blocks - I wanted to try it both ways.  Hopefully the difference won't be too noticeable. 
 
I turned the sheaves on the lathe.  I turned a 7.5" boxwood dowel, and end-drilled the hole as deep into the dowel as I could with the bit. I grooved the dowel with a round file on the lathe. It took a little practice to get the grooves looking the same.  I cut to one side of the groove  by eye on the table saw, then used the stop on the fence to cut them to uniform 1.75" thickness.   
 
I ended up making the cheek blocks in two pieces.  It was easier for me to cut the decorative molding on a separate piece of stripwood, and groove the main block on the table saw. 
 
Now that I have the technique down, I expect the jeer bitts will go pretty quickly.  Once I notch the lower deck beams for the carlings, I can glue in the well, mast step, and lower deck, at which point it should look like there has been some progress.
 

Frank - many thanks - this is really helpful - 1/16 in a few minutes is what I am looking for.  Preac takes around 10-20'. The two grits sounds like a nice feature, although I have been doing OK without it. 
 
Dupree - agreed that Jim Byrnes makes awesome tools, but so did Charlie Files at Preac.  Big thing I am sorting out is whether it is worth the $ to upgrade a tool that works mostly adequately. 
 
My wife is talking about getting back into her doll houses, which will up the amount of milling I need to do, and sounds like I can justify the new machine.  I like milling the wood, but time spent passing pieces of wood through the sander is time not spent actually building the model.
 
Just saw that the Byrnes website is closed to new orders until January 1.  Will probably go ahead and order when they reopen, and will post the difference between the two machines in case I'm not the only one still using an old Preac machine.
 
Happy holidays!
 
Dave

Frank - many thanks - this is really helpful - 1/16 in a few minutes is what I am looking for.  Preac takes around 10-20'. The two grits sounds like a nice feature, although I have been doing OK without it. 
 
Dupree - agreed that Jim Byrnes makes awesome tools, but so did Charlie Files at Preac.  Big thing I am sorting out is whether it is worth the $ to upgrade a tool that works mostly adequately. 
 
My wife is talking about getting back into her doll houses, which will up the amount of milling I need to do, and sounds like I can justify the new machine.  I like milling the wood, but time spent passing pieces of wood through the sander is time not spent actually building the model.
 
Just saw that the Byrnes website is closed to new orders until January 1.  Will probably go ahead and order when they reopen, and will post the difference between the two machines in case I'm not the only one still using an old Preac machine.
 
Happy holidays!
 
Dave