davec

The carlings and beams are in place.  Knees are next.  Then I'll move aft with more beams.  It will soon be time to lay out the partners.
 

 
Maury

Looked it up michael. A drawing can be found in 'Leonardo da Vinci's Ball Bearing'. First filing for a patent of the modern bearing was by Phillip Vaughn in 1792 in England. Just had to look that up and spread it around.
jud

I love the discussions.  So much knowledge here.  More work on the beams.  Since the great cat passes thru what would be the center of beam #2, carlings had to be installed to support the beam parts.  From work on my Echo Section, I learned a very effective way of creating mortices and tenons.  They are cut on an angle at the top as is the deck beam.
 

 
They then fit nicely into the angled slot on the beam.  Slight differences in elevation can be sanded off easily.  Notice the positions of the carlings are slightly different.  The starboard one is parallel to and directly above the side of the keelson.  The port one (shown below) is about 8" further to the side and passes between the two bowsprit bitts.
 

 
The same technique will be used to connect the beam pieces to the carlings.
Maury

Starting on the beams and bitts.   The gantry sets the position of the beam with a square set on top.  The beam is notched and the bitts for the great cat are test fitted.
 

 
After that beam and the bitts were glued in place I moved forward to the next beam where the bitts for the bowsprit line up from the keelson to the beam above.  Again, the square on the gantry lines up the beam and the bitts are clamped and glued.  All the knees have been rough cut on the jigsaw.  I think the hanging knees go on the beam first, then the ledges.  It's going to get tight in there.
 

 
Maury
 

Continuation.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

Making a start on the main superstructure, there are a lot of individual stanchions to place, and ladders in the first instance.

 
then moving on to the triple 25mm gun tubs, each one has 12 support struts to me placed and each is 1mm. I set up my usual production line placing each one in bluetack and using a pin to drop glue in.

 
The lots of foot and handrails and plonked them on. The little radio shack has little vents as per the reference material so it has been bashed a little using tiny funnels.
 
Next are the gun controllers supports which will also require handrails.

Hey Greg
 
I noticed you and I are both using the Small Shop's black plexi photo etch cutting board. After using the board for a while, it gets full of nicks and scratches from cutting the etch pieces from the frets. Those scratches are raised and sometimes cause the photo etch to get stuck in place rather than sliding around freely on top of the board. By accident, I discovered you can take a single edge razor blade, holding it at about a 45 degree angle to the cutting board use the blade to scrape the board and it takes away all those scratches like magic. Makes it smooth and glass-like again. if you haven't already discovered it yourself, try it on your board and those scratches will be gone.

These are maybe a little easier on the eyes.
 

 

 

Time for a semi-annual update.  First post since January other than my pleas not to archive the group build log.  Work continues slowly as a bunch of other commitments continue take priority over shop time. I have the inner hull done to the level of the upper deck clamps, and have begun work on the well.  Mast step is also done, as well as the limber boards and lower deck beams.  I haven’t put any finish on – I used some mineral spirits to clean off the sawdust. I’m continuing to work on the well.  I began gluing the sides on right before leaving on vacation, but didn’t take a picture.
 
Dave

I've added the lower deck clamps, more of the ceiling planking, and begun treenailing.  I put some mineral spirits on to get some sense what they would look like with finish. I'm very impressed with the Jim Byrnes drawplate.  I was able to make .018" treenails (just over 3/4" scale) - second smallest hole on the drawplate.  Much happier with the effect here than on my prior models.
 
Hope everyone has a great new year.
 
Dave

I had to redo some of the upper deck beams because I cut the notches for the carlings in the wrong places. It took a fair amount of time, but I didn't post anything because nothing looked different.  The upper deck beams and beam arms are now complete.
 
I spent some down time over the holidays working on the main brace bitt pins.  I roughed out the shape by scoring each beam on the table saw with a .018" blade set to the depth of where I needed to carve the shape to.  This gave me something to aim for, and worked better than marking the wood with pencil,.When I marking with pencil, it worked great on the first two sides, but the marks got shaved away on the other two sides.  I carved the shape  of the decorative portion with a chisel, then cut the 45 degree bevels. Once I figured out the relationships between the beams and bitt pins on the model, I cut the slots for the upper deck and bitt crossbeam.
 
For the sheave in the bitt pin, I drilled two holes and shaped the sheave with an escarpment file as described in the instructions. I made sheaves for the cheek blocks - I wanted to try it both ways.  Hopefully the difference won't be too noticeable. 
 
I turned the sheaves on the lathe.  I turned a 7.5" boxwood dowel, and end-drilled the hole as deep into the dowel as I could with the bit. I grooved the dowel with a round file on the lathe. It took a little practice to get the grooves looking the same.  I cut to one side of the groove  by eye on the table saw, then used the stop on the fence to cut them to uniform 1.75" thickness.   
 
I ended up making the cheek blocks in two pieces.  It was easier for me to cut the decorative molding on a separate piece of stripwood, and groove the main block on the table saw. 
 
Now that I have the technique down, I expect the jeer bitts will go pretty quickly.  Once I notch the lower deck beams for the carlings, I can glue in the well, mast step, and lower deck, at which point it should look like there has been some progress.
 

HI KURT
FEEL FREE ON USING MY DIGIT AS A GUIDE ON WHAT NOT TO DO WITH HOT BITS OF BRASS!
HOPEFULLY NO MORE "ACCIDENTS"!!!
IM TEMPTED TO LEAVE THE STOVE AS BRASS.......BUT HISTORICAL ACCURACY HAS WON THE DAY.......BLACK IT IS.
THANKS FOR THE COMPLIMENTS.
CHEERS....MICK

HI ALL
ITS ABOUT TIME FOR ANOTHER UPDATE.
 
TOPSIDES HAVE NOW BEEN PLANKED AS HAS THE STERN ALL TREENAILING COMPETED, IVE USED 0.8MM COPPER FOR THE WALE STRAKES....WILL PROBABLY USE A DILUTE LIVER OF SULPHER TO BLACKEN THESE LATER.
 
SOME REMEDIAL WORK TO DO AROUND THE GUNPORTS...NOT ENTIRELY HAPPY WITH THE CONSISTENCY OF THE GAP FOR THE GUNPORT LIDS.
 
DECK BEAMS CUT READY FOR THE NEXT STAGE.
 
AT THE MOMENT WORKING ON THE SHIPS STOVE AND OTHER THINGS BRASSY.
 
HAD A SENIOR MOMENT A COUPLE OF WEEKS BACK.....SOLDERING THE TOP SECTION OF THE STOVE I PUT IT ON THE ANVIL AT THE BACK OF THE VICE TO COOL DOWN.....AND THEN GRABBED HOLD OF THE VICE TO TAKE SOME TUBE OUT OF THE JAWS......*$%"£!&^%*(&^%$!!!!!!!!!.....THE BRASS COMPONENT MAY HAVE LOOKED COLD BUT I RECKON IT WAS STILL A COUPLE OF HUNDRED DEGREES C. 
 
FORTUNATELY THE COMPONENT WAS OK......ONCE A FEW BITS OF MY EPIDERMIS WERE REMOVED.
YOU WILL ALSO BE PLEASED TO KNOW THAT MY TIRADE OF FOUL LANGUAGE,DIRECTED AT MYSELF FOR MY OWN STUPIDITY,WAS WORTHY OF THE SALTIEST OF JACK TARS.
 
AND YES IT STILL HURTS!!!!
 
PHOTOS ENCLOSED FOR YOUR PERUSAL AS ALWAYS
 
CHEERS.....MICK

Thanks, guys, for the comments and the "likes"!
 
Martin:  The seahorses are provided with the kit as two halves that you glue together and sand smooth.  The cherry is my own wood.  Rosewood is beautiful.  I used it for gun mounts, the wales and black strakes and hatch coamings.  It tends to be oily, so you need to wipe it down with an acetone soaked paper towel before gluing or finishing.  It takes a finish beautifully.
 
Ken: The photo shows the various species I used on the hull. Yes, the inner bulwarks are redheart.  Mine oxidized or UV'd a bit to a reddish brown - not the bright red like your Rattlesnake.  Next time I may use blood wood again, as I did on my MS AVS.

I finished the stern lights, glued them in place and gave them a coat of poly.  Only the catheads and rigging the anchor to complete!

Busy day in the shipyard!  I installed all the deadeyes and chainplates and covered the from edge of the channels with some cherry to finish them off.  I also glued the gun supports to the hull and assembled the swivel guns.  They were mounted (temporarily) on the starboard gun mounts.  There are just a few tasks left:  The horizontal portion of the catheads, finishing and rigging the anchors, and making the great cabin lights.  Almost done!
 
The ship will be mounted on the backs of some cherry seahorses fixed to a cherry base.  I still need to rout a profile on the base and glue the seahorses in place.  # or 4 coats of wiping varnish and it'll be done.

I had to redo some of the upper deck beams because I cut the notches for the carlings in the wrong places. It took a fair amount of time, but I didn't post anything because nothing looked different.  The upper deck beams and beam arms are now complete.
 
I spent some down time over the holidays working on the main brace bitt pins.  I roughed out the shape by scoring each beam on the table saw with a .018" blade set to the depth of where I needed to carve the shape to.  This gave me something to aim for, and worked better than marking the wood with pencil,.When I marking with pencil, it worked great on the first two sides, but the marks got shaved away on the other two sides.  I carved the shape  of the decorative portion with a chisel, then cut the 45 degree bevels. Once I figured out the relationships between the beams and bitt pins on the model, I cut the slots for the upper deck and bitt crossbeam.
 
For the sheave in the bitt pin, I drilled two holes and shaped the sheave with an escarpment file as described in the instructions. I made sheaves for the cheek blocks - I wanted to try it both ways.  Hopefully the difference won't be too noticeable. 
 
I turned the sheaves on the lathe.  I turned a 7.5" boxwood dowel, and end-drilled the hole as deep into the dowel as I could with the bit. I grooved the dowel with a round file on the lathe. It took a little practice to get the grooves looking the same.  I cut to one side of the groove  by eye on the table saw, then used the stop on the fence to cut them to uniform 1.75" thickness.   
 
I ended up making the cheek blocks in two pieces.  It was easier for me to cut the decorative molding on a separate piece of stripwood, and groove the main block on the table saw. 
 
Now that I have the technique down, I expect the jeer bitts will go pretty quickly.  Once I notch the lower deck beams for the carlings, I can glue in the well, mast step, and lower deck, at which point it should look like there has been some progress.
 

I had to redo some of the upper deck beams because I cut the notches for the carlings in the wrong places. It took a fair amount of time, but I didn't post anything because nothing looked different.  The upper deck beams and beam arms are now complete.
 
I spent some down time over the holidays working on the main brace bitt pins.  I roughed out the shape by scoring each beam on the table saw with a .018" blade set to the depth of where I needed to carve the shape to.  This gave me something to aim for, and worked better than marking the wood with pencil,.When I marking with pencil, it worked great on the first two sides, but the marks got shaved away on the other two sides.  I carved the shape  of the decorative portion with a chisel, then cut the 45 degree bevels. Once I figured out the relationships between the beams and bitt pins on the model, I cut the slots for the upper deck and bitt crossbeam.
 
For the sheave in the bitt pin, I drilled two holes and shaped the sheave with an escarpment file as described in the instructions. I made sheaves for the cheek blocks - I wanted to try it both ways.  Hopefully the difference won't be too noticeable. 
 
I turned the sheaves on the lathe.  I turned a 7.5" boxwood dowel, and end-drilled the hole as deep into the dowel as I could with the bit. I grooved the dowel with a round file on the lathe. It took a little practice to get the grooves looking the same.  I cut to one side of the groove  by eye on the table saw, then used the stop on the fence to cut them to uniform 1.75" thickness.   
 
I ended up making the cheek blocks in two pieces.  It was easier for me to cut the decorative molding on a separate piece of stripwood, and groove the main block on the table saw. 
 
Now that I have the technique down, I expect the jeer bitts will go pretty quickly.  Once I notch the lower deck beams for the carlings, I can glue in the well, mast step, and lower deck, at which point it should look like there has been some progress.
 

I had to redo some of the upper deck beams because I cut the notches for the carlings in the wrong places. It took a fair amount of time, but I didn't post anything because nothing looked different.  The upper deck beams and beam arms are now complete.
 
I spent some down time over the holidays working on the main brace bitt pins.  I roughed out the shape by scoring each beam on the table saw with a .018" blade set to the depth of where I needed to carve the shape to.  This gave me something to aim for, and worked better than marking the wood with pencil,.When I marking with pencil, it worked great on the first two sides, but the marks got shaved away on the other two sides.  I carved the shape  of the decorative portion with a chisel, then cut the 45 degree bevels. Once I figured out the relationships between the beams and bitt pins on the model, I cut the slots for the upper deck and bitt crossbeam.
 
For the sheave in the bitt pin, I drilled two holes and shaped the sheave with an escarpment file as described in the instructions. I made sheaves for the cheek blocks - I wanted to try it both ways.  Hopefully the difference won't be too noticeable. 
 
I turned the sheaves on the lathe.  I turned a 7.5" boxwood dowel, and end-drilled the hole as deep into the dowel as I could with the bit. I grooved the dowel with a round file on the lathe. It took a little practice to get the grooves looking the same.  I cut to one side of the groove  by eye on the table saw, then used the stop on the fence to cut them to uniform 1.75" thickness.   
 
I ended up making the cheek blocks in two pieces.  It was easier for me to cut the decorative molding on a separate piece of stripwood, and groove the main block on the table saw. 
 
Now that I have the technique down, I expect the jeer bitts will go pretty quickly.  Once I notch the lower deck beams for the carlings, I can glue in the well, mast step, and lower deck, at which point it should look like there has been some progress.
 

I had to redo some of the upper deck beams because I cut the notches for the carlings in the wrong places. It took a fair amount of time, but I didn't post anything because nothing looked different.  The upper deck beams and beam arms are now complete.
 
I spent some down time over the holidays working on the main brace bitt pins.  I roughed out the shape by scoring each beam on the table saw with a .018" blade set to the depth of where I needed to carve the shape to.  This gave me something to aim for, and worked better than marking the wood with pencil,.When I marking with pencil, it worked great on the first two sides, but the marks got shaved away on the other two sides.  I carved the shape  of the decorative portion with a chisel, then cut the 45 degree bevels. Once I figured out the relationships between the beams and bitt pins on the model, I cut the slots for the upper deck and bitt crossbeam.
 
For the sheave in the bitt pin, I drilled two holes and shaped the sheave with an escarpment file as described in the instructions. I made sheaves for the cheek blocks - I wanted to try it both ways.  Hopefully the difference won't be too noticeable. 
 
I turned the sheaves on the lathe.  I turned a 7.5" boxwood dowel, and end-drilled the hole as deep into the dowel as I could with the bit. I grooved the dowel with a round file on the lathe. It took a little practice to get the grooves looking the same.  I cut to one side of the groove  by eye on the table saw, then used the stop on the fence to cut them to uniform 1.75" thickness.   
 
I ended up making the cheek blocks in two pieces.  It was easier for me to cut the decorative molding on a separate piece of stripwood, and groove the main block on the table saw. 
 
Now that I have the technique down, I expect the jeer bitts will go pretty quickly.  Once I notch the lower deck beams for the carlings, I can glue in the well, mast step, and lower deck, at which point it should look like there has been some progress.
 

I've been working on the deck beams.  The lower deck beams have no curve and were easy.  The upper deck beams were more of a challenge.  As suggested in the practicum, using a sanding block cut to the shape of the inside curve was really helpful.  For the outer curve I used a regular sanding block and digital caliper to get to the right thickness.  The beam arms were fun.  All of the joints so far were done with a table saw.  The pieces haven't been sanded yet, which should explain some of the discoloration on the wood.  Everything is just laid in place for the pictures. I can lay a straight edge across the beams and beam arms without high or low spots.
 
I've started cutting the notches for the carlings.  This is something I had a big problem with on my prior models.  I spent  a while on some scrap wood, and discovered my problem was pretty basic - my chisels weren't sharp enough.  I was doing pretty well with my large chisels with a sharpening jig, but was sharpening my smaller chisels by hand. This wasn't getting them anywhere near sharp enough, and I was getting a lot of tear out and cracking the wood.  I got a honing guide that fit my medium sized chisels, and a grobet roller graver sharpener that holds my dockyard microchisels, and all of a sudden was getting much better results. It took me about 90 minutes to make the first two notches (no picture yet) but they came out OK.  I made some templates to help mark them out so they all look uniform.
 
We drop my daughter back at college tomorrow and have an empty nest again, so hopefully slow progress will continue.
 
Dave
 

I had to redo some of the upper deck beams because I cut the notches for the carlings in the wrong places. It took a fair amount of time, but I didn't post anything because nothing looked different.  The upper deck beams and beam arms are now complete.
 
I spent some down time over the holidays working on the main brace bitt pins.  I roughed out the shape by scoring each beam on the table saw with a .018" blade set to the depth of where I needed to carve the shape to.  This gave me something to aim for, and worked better than marking the wood with pencil,.When I marking with pencil, it worked great on the first two sides, but the marks got shaved away on the other two sides.  I carved the shape  of the decorative portion with a chisel, then cut the 45 degree bevels. Once I figured out the relationships between the beams and bitt pins on the model, I cut the slots for the upper deck and bitt crossbeam.
 
For the sheave in the bitt pin, I drilled two holes and shaped the sheave with an escarpment file as described in the instructions. I made sheaves for the cheek blocks - I wanted to try it both ways.  Hopefully the difference won't be too noticeable. 
 
I turned the sheaves on the lathe.  I turned a 7.5" boxwood dowel, and end-drilled the hole as deep into the dowel as I could with the bit. I grooved the dowel with a round file on the lathe. It took a little practice to get the grooves looking the same.  I cut to one side of the groove  by eye on the table saw, then used the stop on the fence to cut them to uniform 1.75" thickness.   
 
I ended up making the cheek blocks in two pieces.  It was easier for me to cut the decorative molding on a separate piece of stripwood, and groove the main block on the table saw. 
 
Now that I have the technique down, I expect the jeer bitts will go pretty quickly.  Once I notch the lower deck beams for the carlings, I can glue in the well, mast step, and lower deck, at which point it should look like there has been some progress.
 

Chris - Congratulations on your new shop.  I have most of the same tools, and have been using a shop vac for my dust collection for the last 6 years.  My workshop is a little smaller than yours, and I also have a table and band saw.  I like the vacuum because of the flexibility it gives me.  I have limited bench space, so I end up swapping tools on the bench, and also store the table and band saw against the wall and move them when I need to use them. The beauty of the shop vac is that no matter how I have the workshop temporarily configured, I just move the vacuum and hose  and connect them to whatever tool I am using, no matter where I set it up.
 
The only down side is that the thickness sander clogs the filter in the shop vac somewhat quickly.  It isn't that big a deal, but I generally need to take the vacuum outside and clean the filter after about 2 hours of thickness sanding. 2 hours is a lot of thickness sanding, so I don't need to clean it that often.  
 
Dave