ccoyle

Continuing on with my WW1 theme, I’m starting on the Lanchester armoured car offered by Copper State Models.  The number of frets with this kit are not huge but what sets the kit apart are the quality of the detailing and a most beautifully  detailed and colourized instruction manual on thick stock paper.  Lanchesters were the second most numerous armoured car in service during WW1 and was designed by the Admiralty Air Dept for the Royal Naval Air Service to support air bases and retrieve downed pilots.  Scott 
 

Painting started with careful moves not to delete the dark shades

After 1rst coat

After 2nd

After 3d

After the last one

Finished putting the boards down for the first layer.  A few gaps that need some filler, and a few bumps that will need to be smoothed out, but I'm happy with the result.  I decided to not plank some of the deadwood area on the first layer as it will need to be sanded down to 0mm per the instructions anyway, I have seen a few others go this route on various models and decided to try this method. 


 
While the PVA glue was drying for the final planks, I decided to start wet forming the pear laser cut patterns for the out hull.  While these won't be used for a few more steps, I wanted to give them ample time to dry in position over the next day.

 
Question for the experts.  I have been thumbing through the instructions and it doesn't look like these slots in the stern frames are utilized, is this assumption correct?  I just want to make sure I haven't missed anything as it looks like the stern fascia pieces will cover them.

 

Quite possibly the worst rigging diagram I have ever had to work with. Note that one end or the other end, sometimes both ends, of each line is not shown. And this is pretty much the only rigging diagram in the kit.
 

 
In photos, most of the bracing wires appear to be doubled. In some instances it looks like the pairs were wrapped in some kind of material. The upshot is that the cables look thicker. I will duplicate this effect by using wire for the rigging instead of EZ-Line. That means the technique will be a little different.
 
Here's the forest of struts mounted to the lower wing.
 

Yes, actually!
 
BTW, you probably already know this, but Tom Grigat built that very kit in one of his Modeling in Motion videos.

Quite possibly the worst rigging diagram I have ever had to work with. Note that one end or the other end, sometimes both ends, of each line is not shown. And this is pretty much the only rigging diagram in the kit.
 

 
In photos, most of the bracing wires appear to be doubled. In some instances it looks like the pairs were wrapped in some kind of material. The upshot is that the cables look thicker. I will duplicate this effect by using wire for the rigging instead of EZ-Line. That means the technique will be a little different.
 
Here's the forest of struts mounted to the lower wing.
 

Update
 
this sequence is dedicated to the build of the wheelhouse, nav- and controlroom. Also the planked deck for the "monkey platform" is ready for mounting. The nav. light containments will be integrated in to the wheelhouse railing panels
 
Nils

brass windowframes ( square-tube) are fitted in, tight fit

the wheelhouse walls are from 0,8mm ply mounted to the framework

section is painted and the monkey plattform deck has dryfit

The "glassing" of 18 windows

silicone glassing bits pressed in, tight fit into the window frames

the "monkey plattform" deck will be permanently glued on, when the wheelhouse section is screwed down to the boats deck

 
 

Thanks for your words Uwe,
all the coming items are being built from pictures as good as I can
I found a solution for finding the "lost" anchor cable in the closed hull, and to secure it. I`m currently trying my luck with the wheel- and nav house from 0,8 mm ply, I´ll try to do the square windowframes like already done once for the "Ergenstrasse", which has the same scale. Its a bit more tricky and fragile here in order to bring 8 windows over the limited wheelhouse breadth
 
Nils

a hole was drilled into the forecastle bulkhead, the "lost" achorcable of the hall anchor fished through this hole and secured with a wooden stopper. This lays between bulkhead and its cover item.
Paint touchups pending later on

the arrangement for the waistdeck fastenings of the mooring cable
 


made a little framework for the wheelhouse sides. A wooden spacebar provides for the right height afterwards

there are panama fairleads to prevent dammage to the railing

the framework is fastend to the boats deck with screws so that it follows the decks sheer

a card template for making the front window front, the other sidewalls will be done likewise

the windowframes will be made from brass square tube, the glassing done later with square extruded semitransparent silicone bar
 

I was away from my shipyard for a while because I had other things to do. I'm happy to be back again. I completed the assembly of the commodores cabin walls and doors that I started before.

Log #9: Starting the Second layer
 
The second layer planking has started.
The outer prow pieces have also been fitted.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Work has been continuing on the aft deadwood, the inner stern post and the sternpost.
 
I firstly cut out the rabbet on the sternpost using the mill. They are 3" deep. I also milled some very slight rebates on the aft side of the sternpost where the gudgeons will eventually sit. There are also two 'notches' on the inner sternpost where the ends of the fashion pieces sit but because the fashion pieces aren't the same height on both sides one notch needs to be slightly longer than the other.  Here are all three pieces just sitting roughly in place on the keel.

I then moved on to tidying up the steps on the aft deadwood. I realised that one step was slightly undersize on one side compared to its opposite number and so I added a small sliver of wood to build that up a little. I also made the steps nice and crisp and marked out the curve for the area under the bearding line on the base and rear sides of the aft deadwood to give me a guide when sanding this area.

The initial sanding was done with a dremel sanding band initially and then I moved on to a variety of curved sanding shapes using 240# grit paper.

I didn't sand all the way down to the final shape at this time as I thought it would be easier to achieve the desired curve once the inner sternpost was attached to the deadwood. I started some initial sanding on the inner sternpost before gluing and pinning both pieces together. 

Further sanding then helped to blend the curve across the two pieces. It was at this point that I realised that during the sanding process I had somehow managed to break off parts of the foremost step on each side of the deadwood. As mentioned previously these are very small and delicate pieces and I should have no doubt taken more care with them! I decided that a repair could be effected by cutting out a small section of the base of the deadwood on both sides and gluing two thin pieces of wood there extending out to each side. These were then cut to size to represent those two foremost steps. I think if I was to make the deadwood again I would refrain from milling in these foremost steps until the rest of the shaping of the piece had been completed, thereby avoiding the danger of damaging them. 
 
I was also slightly over zealous in sanding one side of the inner sternpost - it ended up a bit thinner on one side when compared to the depth of the rabbet on the sternpost. I don't believe this will be an issue later on as further sanding will be required when fairing the frames, but I have not yet attached the sternpost to the inner sternpost just in case I decide to change it. Finally at this stage I cut out a piece of 15" wide wood for the rising wood. This was made in two pieces with a scarph joint and the positions of the main station lines were marked on it.

 

Hull Construction – 2nd Planking
 
Shout out to those who are following along or popping in for a peek!
 
The Vine’s gunwale was 9” wide x 5” thick (~ 23 cm x 13 cm), which works out to be ~ 4 mm x 2 mm at scale.  I elected to go with 6 mm x 1 mm because the 6 mm dimension contrasted better with the 4 mm planking and 1 mm looked better than 2 mm.
 
Both the port and starboard gunwales are installed and taper into the stem and stern rebates.  6 mm wide garboards are also fitted both port and starboard.
 
As mentioned in earlier, I’m using a 4 butt shift 5:3:1:4:2 pattern and 7 strakes are installed both port and starboard.
 

 
Cheers,
Jay

Yeah I did, a beautiful job as well...
 
The WnW instruction for this are the best... (glad that Mike got to it before I did)
 
All I can offer is the link to the WnW page for the kit, yes it is still up and functioning, there is even more info on this airplane there... (2 versions)
 
http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/product?productid=3085 French version
 
http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/product?productid=3106 (USAS version, take a look at the rigging update page for the US version)
 
She is looking very nice brother...

Quite possibly the worst rigging diagram I have ever had to work with. Note that one end or the other end, sometimes both ends, of each line is not shown. And this is pretty much the only rigging diagram in the kit.
 

 
In photos, most of the bracing wires appear to be doubled. In some instances it looks like the pairs were wrapped in some kind of material. The upshot is that the cables look thicker. I will duplicate this effect by using wire for the rigging instead of EZ-Line. That means the technique will be a little different.
 
Here's the forest of struts mounted to the lower wing.
 

Yes, actually!
 
BTW, you probably already know this, but Tom Grigat built that very kit in one of his Modeling in Motion videos.

Yes, actually!
 
BTW, you probably already know this, but Tom Grigat built that very kit in one of his Modeling in Motion videos.

Yes, actually!
 
BTW, you probably already know this, but Tom Grigat built that very kit in one of his Modeling in Motion videos.

The instructions say to apply the hull sides starting at the stern. When I did that the curve at the step in the deck didn’t line up.  I had to remove the side, and ruined it in the process.  Fortunately there are parts for different versions and I was able to switch to the B version (middle years, I was doing A, as launched). This time I started the sides at the step.

The Enchantress was built at the J. Brown shipyard in Great Britain. Originally designed to be a convoy escort named Bittern, her purpose was changed during construction to an Admiralty Yacht and her name changed to Enchantress.  She was launched December 21, 1934 and entered service on April 8, 1935. 
This is a card model from JSC and comes in booklet form. The basic kit has laser cut parts to form the hull and I also purchased a laser cut detail set.  I separated the pages and put them with the instructions in plastic sleeves.  This keeps everything neat makes it more difficult to misplace parts.

Well, two weeks after placing the order, everything arrived safe and sound. You can add Seahorse to the list of conscientious shippers -- all was securely packed.
 
First glimpse inside. I believe Tomek has described his mast sets as something like "just sticks," but they are reasonably priced, and I like the fact that I don't have to source dowels of the right diameter and cut them to length. They will need to be shaped, obviously.
 

 
Pre-printed sails. These include suggestions for dying, reinforcing, and adding boltropes.
 

 
The kit itself. Believe it or not, my knife slipped while slicing open the protective plastic sleeve. Fortunately, I only damaged the back cover. Whew!!!
 

 
Some parts . . .
 
   
 
. . . and diagrams.
 

 
And, of course, laser-cut frames.
 

 
Looking forward to starting soon

Ooooooh!!
 

Yes, yes, I know -- this will be yet a third concurrently running project. And actually, this project will not really begin for at least another week to ten days, because I just ordered the kit today, and it has to wing its way over here from Poland. So, first question is: Why this project? For several reasons:
I have long been wanting to try my hand at a card sailing vessel. This looks like a great kit for that purpose. The rig is super simple. It is hot off the presses. I want to be among the very first to build one of these (the urge to be an 'early adopter') -- hence the slightly premature rush to start this log.  
I will do a deep dive into the kit contents once it gets here, but for now here's a shot of the kit cover:
 

 
And a contemporary drawing of the subject by Willem van de Velde.
 

 
I ordered the discounted set for the model, which includes the kit, laser-cut parts, mast dowels, and printed sails. In total, this set me back a whopping US$30.62, including shipping, which is about half what it would cost to acquire a single Halinski kit along with its bells and whistles. I have remarked before on the value of ordering directly from Tomek at his website.
 
And now . . . we wait. In the meantime, I will try to get as much done on the Salmson as I can before the next project arrives.
 
That's it for now!
 

Quite possibly the worst rigging diagram I have ever had to work with. Note that one end or the other end, sometimes both ends, of each line is not shown. And this is pretty much the only rigging diagram in the kit.
 

 
In photos, most of the bracing wires appear to be doubled. In some instances it looks like the pairs were wrapped in some kind of material. The upshot is that the cables look thicker. I will duplicate this effect by using wire for the rigging instead of EZ-Line. That means the technique will be a little different.
 
Here's the forest of struts mounted to the lower wing.
 

Welcome aboard!

Quite possibly the worst rigging diagram I have ever had to work with. Note that one end or the other end, sometimes both ends, of each line is not shown. And this is pretty much the only rigging diagram in the kit.
 

 
In photos, most of the bracing wires appear to be doubled. In some instances it looks like the pairs were wrapped in some kind of material. The upshot is that the cables look thicker. I will duplicate this effect by using wire for the rigging instead of EZ-Line. That means the technique will be a little different.
 
Here's the forest of struts mounted to the lower wing.