ccoyle

Is it just me, or does the T-26 look like it would be very cramped to fight/drive in?

A bit of further progress. All gun blisters complete, along with the oil cooler and air inlet. The latter was a booger to build. I wound up with a part left over. 🤔
 

 
Work on the landing gear is in progress. On the left are the port strut and door. On the right are the parts for the starboard strut and door, just for comparison. Not hard work, but kind of tedious. Once these are done it will be time for wheels.
 

If you have to go raiding for thread, look for quilting thread. It has far less fuzz than regular sewing thread. Congratulations on completing your model!

After seeing how @DelF upgraded the front of the rudder tiller housing, I did something similar.  It's a fairly minor upgrade, but I think it looks a lot better.  I sat the roof on top to see what it would look like, it's not glued yet.  I'm about ready to rig the tiller and wheel, and then I can glue it on.
 
I also added 4 cleats to the aft deck, and two are shown in photo.  One cleat managed to pop off my tweezers while trying to install and went flying.  It must have landed on the floor, so it's pretty hopeless to find it.  I have carpet squares in the basement, and the pattern hides everything brown or grey colored.  I've been on the floor before looking for pieces like this, and it's a great mystery how these little parts manage to disappear.  I used another one from the laser cut sheet, so hoping extras were provided.
 

First post of the new year, and now 21 months into the build. Began constructing the lower yard arms (5/32” dowels) basically following the instructions and using the plan. To taper the dowels, I used a poor man's lathe made from two hand drills (see photo). I cut the dowels long enough to insert the ends into the drill chuck. The end the dowel that was being tapered was secured in the drill chuck. The opposite end was allowed to rotate freely in the chuck of the other drill.  I used 1/16” strips to create the octagon shape. The strips were beveled. The gaps between strips (minor) were filled with wood filler and then sanded smooth. The sling cleats were made from 1/16" strips. I made a notch in the bottom of the strip and then cut two pieces to size and glued them to the yard. The yard arm cleats were made using a 1/32” strip. I applied a little CA to secure the cleats before shaping them. I copied WalrusGuy’s build log and installed simulated iron bands around the spar battens – it’s a nice supplemental detail. I also added the inner boom iron, positioned about 1/3 the distance from the end of the yard arm. I used 1/16” pinstripe tape for the bands and the inner boom iron. Applied a little CA to secure the cut ends of the tape. I drilled a hole in backside of each yard arm and pinned them, temporarily, to the masts. As much as I liked the natural look of the yards, I decided to paint them black, as most builders have done. The downside of painting them black is that the detailing is not as visible.
 

 

 

 

 

 
I continued making the yards. The topsail yards and topgallant yards were constructed using a 1/8” diameter dowels. Don’t forget the simulated sheaves. The royal yards are made using a 3/32” diameter dowel. Like the lower yard arms, the topsail, top gallant, and royal yards were painted black.
 

 

 

 

 
The stuns’l booms were next. I made them from a 5/64” diameter dowel. I didn’t have enough dowel to make all of the stuns’l booms (I was one short) so I had to order more from Model Expo - on back order. I stained the booms with Golden Oak. Note, l didn’t bother to give the inboard ends of the booms an octagonal shape.
 
Following Chuck’s instructions, the stuns’l boom irons were easier to make than I anticipated. To simulate the hinges on the boom irons I used 22 gauge wire as per the instructions. Rather than to cut and glue tiny lengths of wire, I laid the wire on the boom iron, as if I were going to solder it, and applied CA with a toothpick to adhere the wire to the brass iron. After letting the CA set for a short time, I snipped the wire at the edge of the iron with a nail clipper and filed the ends smooth. I painted the completed boom irons black with Model Color acrylic-colors paint purchased at Hobbie Lobby. This is big step completed. Next, I drilled holes at a 45 degree angle in the pinstripe tape used for the inner boom irons. Before drilling, I pierced the tape with a sewing needle to prevent the tape from getting torn up. I inserted the inner boom irons into the drilled holes and then painted them while on the yard arm - an easy way to paint them. I test fit the boom irons on the lower yards (see photos).
 

 

 

 

 
The yard arm footrope stirrups were made with 28 gauge wire, wrapped 3-times around the yard, and with the stirrup hanging from the backside of the yard. CA was applied to secure the stirrups. An eye was formed on the end of the stirrup and some sewing thread was added to simulate seizing above the eye. I completed the stirrups on the lower yards. More to follow. Stay tuned.
 

 

Ok, first decision. The bow. Though Woodrat's similar ship has a bow like this:
 

 
 . . . which explains so many contemporary pictures where it looks mysteriously like this:
 
    
 
 . . . on my own it is pretty obvious the bow is different. For example, see the above post and this detail:
 

 
The stempost in all examples curves back dramatically (there are slight variations in its configuration but whenever the stempost is visible the reverse curve is always there) and the bow seems to be fairly sharp. This bow shape is reinforced by the so-called Cocharelli Codex (Genoese, 1330-1340) which unusually shows several ships as seen from the front.
 

 
This plus the fact that they look remarkably similar to the San Marco ships despite them being almost 200 years apart, leads me to think that this shape co-existed with that shown on Woodrat's ship, and that this is how the bow should be configured.
 
Steven
 
 

Finished!
 


 
It took a long time for me to get all of the lines in, especially because I made a lot of mistakes and had to go back and correct them.
 
I learned a lot form this model and the instructions and were really great, if felt like just the right amount of difficulty for my current level and I really  trying getting to try all of the new skills this one calls for. 
 
A few issues with this kit  :
 
- The transoms sit a bit off the building board and it is easy for them to be tilted, especially the bow transom. I used some supports for the stern transom to keep it square but I think, it would be better to have longer of wood strips  glued to building board on each side of the transom supports to be sure the transoms  stay square as the planking progresses.  My bow wound up a bit off square. 
 
- Lots of care is needed alining the planks starting at the bow as any error becomes greater as the plank angles out form the bow. The planking wound up being a compromise between the lines scribed on the transoms, the lines where the plank bevels start, and the marks on the 2 molds. I had to unglue one plank after it came out too far off. 
 
- The paper strip guide in the instructions was helpful for locating the horizontal position along the hull of the frames and supports for the thwarts, but there is no guide for positioning them vertically. I tried to use the pictures and the relation of the supports to the strakes in the pictures, but I had to unglue them and reposition 4 of  them when it was time to install the thwarts. I think it would be better to install the frames, then make and fit the thwarts, then figure out where the smaller supports need to be so the thwarts are level  so and the one around the center board sits level with the centerboard case. 
 
- I glued the tubes for the rudder grudgeons with CA glue, and they  both broke off at some point during the build. I finally used epoxy.
 
- The kit is short 4 brass nails and its was short  more after I lost some of them when they went flying as I cut them or  tried to  install them.
 
-  I needed more 0.3 mm line to seize the lines for the stays. Its a nice option in the kit. I used the 0.5 mm line, but it would have been better to raid my wife's sewing kit for some tan thread-- next time. 
 
 
Overall this model is  very good experience for someone new to all of this, and I am going to build the Lobster Smack which is the third boat in the series. I am going to spend a bit of  time cleaning up and reorganizing my work space before I start it. 
 
Thanks to everyone for all of the likes, suggestions, and encouragement!
 
 
 
 

I am so far behind you all.
 

I ripped some cherry on the bandsaw and thickness sanded them.
 
 

It is a small laser cutter but it cuts through the 1/4" cherry ok. I could have cut these out on the scroll saw but I thought that would be cheating. Real men use a coping saw anyway. Right?
 
 

My cut parts seem to fit together ok.
 
 

Using maple for the rabbet I stuffed it into the scrap plywood from Chuck's bulkhead kit and heated it with a heat gun until  it relaxed into shape. Much hotter than a hair dryer.
 
 

I glued the rabbet strip to the stem and keel first. I hope that works out for me.
 
 

I drew up 3D versions of the bollard timbers in Sketchup from Chuck's imported drawings.
 
 

Sliced and supported in Chitubox software for 3D resin printing.
 
 

I printed two at the same time. At 20um layer thickness it took 7 hours to print. I still have some refinements to the shape of the moldings before a final print.
 
 

An early test print with the laser cut cherry version behind.  This part gets painted black so I saw no harm in making it out of resin. If I did make a wood one I could sandwich a piece of cherry between two resin pieces  as a guide and file the wood down to the resin. I may try that on another part that will be exposed wood. I will give the .stl file if anyone wants it.
 
This is my first wood ship model ever. I hope I am not committing a crime or violating some tradition by bringing in a 3D printed part here. Please let me know. Interested in your thoughts.
Kurt

I have never built a ship model before. The Revel 1/96 USS Constitution as a child does not count right? 50 years ago anyway. Searching the internet looking for what kit to buy to learn how to build a wooden ship model I happened upon this group. Lucky I did. There is a lot of teaching going on here. Chuck has came up with a great design and a program for making a ship modeller out of me. I am a woodworker with a full shop so I bring something to the table. I purchased the plywood and casting set to get started but I may scratchbuild the rest. I have lots of furniture grade wood around the shop so I may use cherry. I have a 60 watt desktop laser cutter and 3D resin printers to play with too.
 
 

All plywood tends to be uneven so I ran the bulkhead pieces through the thickness sander with a light pass just because I have one handy. Perhaps having a precise frame is a good beginning?
 
 

I drew up some keel brackets in Sketchup.
 

Then cut them out on my desktop laser cutter. It took two passes to cut through the MDF. Plywood would have been better with one pass but it is done now.
 

I milled slots in the keel support strips with my old Unimat. Had this from my childhood. Fun to bring it out sometimes.
 

I am using an Ikea cabinet door for the drydock. Smooth flat surface. I drilled and taped the particle board for 4-40 machine screws. Crazy but it works! 
 

I made my brackets to clear the keel strips so they can be adjusted independently. The keel may be a different thickness than the plywood.
 
Let the making of sawdust and shavings begin!
Kurt
 

And some Cats 

So he bought a jeep!

Next is a Grumman Duck which appears in the photo. The only way I could get one is to have it 3D printed from shapeways. It’s horrible but will have to do. 

Yep, love the airbrush. I actually have  2 of them now. 
 
first deck equipment, tractors! 

The planes, keeps and tractors 

Island and arrestor cables added, I’ve painted a lot of stuff that’s will be added at the end. Now, aircraft ! 

Part 2, I used a light blue diluted overspray
 
then a tan overspray
 
. I then have a the metal cross braces a dark wash (these are the metal sections they use to belay the aircraft)
 
then another overspray. 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi...

A bit of further progress. All gun blisters complete, along with the oil cooler and air inlet. The latter was a booger to build. I wound up with a part left over. 🤔
 

 
Work on the landing gear is in progress. On the left are the port strut and door. On the right are the parts for the starboard strut and door, just for comparison. Not hard work, but kind of tedious. Once these are done it will be time for wheels.
 

A bit of further progress. All gun blisters complete, along with the oil cooler and air inlet. The latter was a booger to build. I wound up with a part left over. 🤔
 

 
Work on the landing gear is in progress. On the left are the port strut and door. On the right are the parts for the starboard strut and door, just for comparison. Not hard work, but kind of tedious. Once these are done it will be time for wheels.
 

A bit of further progress. All gun blisters complete, along with the oil cooler and air inlet. The latter was a booger to build. I wound up with a part left over. 🤔
 

 
Work on the landing gear is in progress. On the left are the port strut and door. On the right are the parts for the starboard strut and door, just for comparison. Not hard work, but kind of tedious. Once these are done it will be time for wheels.
 

A bit of further progress. All gun blisters complete, along with the oil cooler and air inlet. The latter was a booger to build. I wound up with a part left over. 🤔
 

 
Work on the landing gear is in progress. On the left are the port strut and door. On the right are the parts for the starboard strut and door, just for comparison. Not hard work, but kind of tedious. Once these are done it will be time for wheels.
 

Is it just me, or does the T-26 look like it would be very cramped to fight/drive in?

A bit of further progress. All gun blisters complete, along with the oil cooler and air inlet. The latter was a booger to build. I wound up with a part left over. 🤔
 

 
Work on the landing gear is in progress. On the left are the port strut and door. On the right are the parts for the starboard strut and door, just for comparison. Not hard work, but kind of tedious. Once these are done it will be time for wheels.
 

Thanks to everyone for the comments and the likes, and for just looking in.
 
I received the Alclad aluminum paint and was pleased with it on the fuel tanks and oil tank.   Though especially looking at these pictures I think I need to try again to fill in that seam on the oil tank and repaint it.
 
Otherwise, I mostly glued in some of the cockpit bits that I previously painted and took the big step of removing the fuselage from the jig.   I am mostly through the first 10 steps out of about 50 in the instructions.   The next steps have a lot of rigging of sorts, for both the control lines and the tension wires.
 
I did run into one issue that I hope does not present problems down the line.  The two vertical pieces by the cockpit were a bit too short, indicating the upper and lower lengthwise stringers were a bit too far apart.  I knew that the lower one was not fully seated into the slot, though I did not think it was off by much.   I ended up putting a new piece of the 1.5mm square wood stock on top of the lower stringer and then placing the vertical pieces on that.   You can see the extra piece on the third and fourth pictures below.   My fear for the future is that the metal cowling pieces might not fully meet up, there may be gaps between the panels.  We'll see.
 
Oil tank:

 
Gravity tank:

 
Cockpit and fuselage pictures:

A bit of further progress. All gun blisters complete, along with the oil cooler and air inlet. The latter was a booger to build. I wound up with a part left over. 🤔
 

 
Work on the landing gear is in progress. On the left are the port strut and door. On the right are the parts for the starboard strut and door, just for comparison. Not hard work, but kind of tedious. Once these are done it will be time for wheels.