ccoyle

Empennage is done. I can't give this kit high marks for number and quality of diagrams, not for sufficiency of internal structure. I had to muddle through the former and scratch-build some of the latter, but it turned out okay, I think.
 

 

 

Absolutely! Since the basic model is finished, we'll mark it done -- and congratulations!

Should we wait for those before marking this build as finished?

He's posted the link in his signature now.

He's posted the link in his signature now.

No. If they were, I probably would have already bought them, cuz WAK has the best shipping rates in the business. No, sadly, they are both published by MSModel.

He's posted the link in his signature now.

So, while I'm sitting here killing some time, allow me to share one of the Great Criminal Enterprises in the world of card modeling. Shown below is a screen capture of my shopping cart from an actual publisher/vendor in Poland, who shall go nameless.
 

 
Pay special attention to the shipping charge. How many models do you think are in my shopping cart?
 
Two.
 
Yes, that is the shipping cost to get two kits (plus frames, wheels, and canopies) shipped from Poland. Which is a shame, because I'm really quite interested in these two particular models (a Swedish J-20, i.e. Reggiane 2000, and a North American Harvard IIB). But I'm not $72.24 interested. Sadly, these two kits are not available at the sites I usually buy from.
 
Card models -- it pays to shop.

This came up in my Facebook memories today. It's a Yak-3 built from an Orlik kit. It's one of the very first kits I built with laser-cut formers. A friend of mine back in California has this model.
 

No. If they were, I probably would have already bought them, cuz WAK has the best shipping rates in the business. No, sadly, they are both published by MSModel.

I haven't done much on the kit for the last month or so ,had a major depressive episode then coming up from that I got hit with covid,(Nearly 5 years and multiple family and extended family getting it and not a thing for me and my sons then boom😒
I've slowly got back to it ,I've finished the inner planking for the gundeck and adding the stanchions on the orlop supporting the gundeck! ,next is some medical hammocks and various stowage on the orlop then it's onto the gundeck.
 
Richard

Not much time available to me today, but I did manage to do some painting, drill the gun ports, and add the guns to the main deck.
So here's the evidence!
 
I weathered the upper deck with Citadel Colour 'Wraithbone' and streaking of Tamiya XF-52 'Flat Earth' It looks better than the image suggests'

 
I glued another diagram of the sides onto the sides and drilled the gun ports using a 1mm bit. Also then added the guns on the main deck (tricky but ok).
 
More paint ...

 
I like to paint the upper edge of the BOTTOM wood as sometimes the lighter colour may show when you join the two pieces.

 
I'm happy with today's results. Tomorrow, given time, I hope to start on the black stripes on the upper hull and finish items on the decks.

 
Have a good weekend,
Cheers
 
 

Thank you all! Since I now try to put daily work on the models, and with most other non modeling issues mostly resolved, I'll be more consistant in posting here in general. 
Timberheads on the bow are now done, and the hull is ready for painting. The forecastle is also temporarily dry fitted. 
On the matter of the deck, I improved on my older solution, that is, I drew a 1/144 scale deck pattern, complete with colors, planking and nailheads on the computer. 
I printed it on thick paper. Then I glue it on 0.3mm thick plastic sheet in the shape of the deck and painted it over with matte enamel coat to seal it. I like the result, not many other solutions in that scale (other than buying ready decks or sth) so the same deck pattern will be in all my 1/144 models from now on. 

Thank you Ian! Oh well, my unorthodox builts are still a bit of a way to go to become masterpieces hahaha 😅 
Here some photos of the hull, almost complete, with most outside details in place. I am very relieved of how it came out, having designed it myself, despite its shortcomings. It is not perfect, but from pictures of Ares and paintings of similar mediterranean merchant brigs, it looks much more correct to my eyes, so that is enough.  

Update
made the boat`s deck and planked it, also coming for edges and aft stair outcuts. The fastening points (turnbuckles) for the mast stays were mounted. It would be difficult to mount the bottlesrews after the deck is on.
The blanc patches on the deck in the areas for the boats will be plated with a profiled anti slip layer
 
Nils

the card template for the boats deck

start with the planking. Deck and planking strips are both 0,8mm thick, so the total thickness is 1,6mm. That is flexebil enough for sheric bending down when glueing it on.

 

measures to bring the curvature into the deck

 

 

supports will be mounted (10 on each side)  between deck and bulwark
 

Log #8: finishing and sanding first layer planks
 
Here is the first layer planking completed. Much better result than my perseverance with little sanding and filling required.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Masts on the United States are up. Jib and flying jib boom are on. Starting standing rigging.

Hi All 
Thanks for the likes....time for a quick update.
 
First layer of planking is now complete, below shows a bit of the progress, rough finish and after sanding.  I placed tape around some of the bulkheads where I didn't want the planks to adhere to as these bulkhead extensions are to be cut away in future.  I could have used templates to cut the bulwarks out of some ply but I've elected to plank instead.  I  also added some strengthening across the bulkhead extensions to protect and reduce the risk of them breaking them during planking.
 
I used hoop pine for the planking and milled to 5mm x 1.5mm strips.  Hoop pine has no discernable grain and bends quite easily....most importantly it stays straight after been cut into strips from a larger plank
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The planking turned out relatively ok, however, for transparency.....I did make a slight error.  In the previous post I mentioned that I'd fair the mdf that I added as packing, which I did.  What I didn't do was fair the "leg" above this and this has resulted in a run of concave planking for 5 or so planks.  This will be hidden by the galleries but leaving like this will make it awkward to shape the formers of the galleries so I'll fill and sand this gap to get a straight run

 
Fashioned a bit of a mast step  glue well for all three masts as the 3mm spine would not give enough surface to glue onto.  I know some people just rely on the rigging to keep the masts upright....but not me , more glue the better, no way am I relying on my rigging to keep anything straight

 
 
As a quick check on how accurate I am at this stage to the paper model, I overlaid the paper planking templates onto the hull and all appears ok.  Normally I would line off the hull for the second planking by working out the bands but as things look ok, I'll use the templates to give the bands and tweak as I go along (you can just make out the separate planking  templates by the numbers I've written on them) .  At the top you can just see the templates that could have been used to cut bulwarks out of ply
 

 
 
And finally I added the false deck for the main deck.  A joggle stick was used to shape the false deck and cut from 0.8mm ply.  I had to install  in separate pieces as I couldn't get it into place in single go.  Holes cut (not vey well but sort of round) for the masts.  I've marked the deck at every 20mm to help with the planking shift pattern
 

 
 
Thanks for dropping in
 
Mark

OK, I have just competed the hull designs for Harpy (1796), now onto masts. Here are a few pics of the (sacrificial) 'pre-prototype', again, used only to check fit of designed parts, so this has really been taken apart and put together a lot. (And is in fact the third of my builds for this)
 
Again, the only planking required will be at the level below the main wale down, with everything above this all pre cut/engraved, including the main wale (this is why they take so long to design)
 
Armament is absolutely typical of this vessel, 16 x 32-Pounder carronades and 2 x 6-Pounder long guns.
 
64th Scale, as I am sure someone will ask, and a hull length of around 545mm, with a lot of detail..

That's not the same kit, Keith. Thanks for looking, though!
 
EDIT: I'm not terribly enamored of the Italian Eastern Front camo scheme depicted on the Orel kit. I think it looks kinda garish. Moreover, the graphics and level of detail don't look that great, either. I've never built one of Orel's aircraft kits, but I've never been impressed by any of the finished examples I've seen.

So, while I'm sitting here killing some time, allow me to share one of the Great Criminal Enterprises in the world of card modeling. Shown below is a screen capture of my shopping cart from an actual publisher/vendor in Poland, who shall go nameless.
 

 
Pay special attention to the shipping charge. How many models do you think are in my shopping cart?
 
Two.
 
Yes, that is the shipping cost to get two kits (plus frames, wheels, and canopies) shipped from Poland. Which is a shame, because I'm really quite interested in these two particular models (a Swedish J-20, i.e. Reggiane 2000, and a North American Harvard IIB). But I'm not $72.24 interested. Sadly, these two kits are not available at the sites I usually buy from.
 
Card models -- it pays to shop.

This came up in my Facebook memories today. It's a Yak-3 built from an Orlik kit. It's one of the very first kits I built with laser-cut formers. A friend of mine back in California has this model.
 

So, while I'm sitting here killing some time, allow me to share one of the Great Criminal Enterprises in the world of card modeling. Shown below is a screen capture of my shopping cart from an actual publisher/vendor in Poland, who shall go nameless.
 

 
Pay special attention to the shipping charge. How many models do you think are in my shopping cart?
 
Two.
 
Yes, that is the shipping cost to get two kits (plus frames, wheels, and canopies) shipped from Poland. Which is a shame, because I'm really quite interested in these two particular models (a Swedish J-20, i.e. Reggiane 2000, and a North American Harvard IIB). But I'm not $72.24 interested. Sadly, these two kits are not available at the sites I usually buy from.
 
Card models -- it pays to shop.

So, while I'm sitting here killing some time, allow me to share one of the Great Criminal Enterprises in the world of card modeling. Shown below is a screen capture of my shopping cart from an actual publisher/vendor in Poland, who shall go nameless.
 

 
Pay special attention to the shipping charge. How many models do you think are in my shopping cart?
 
Two.
 
Yes, that is the shipping cost to get two kits (plus frames, wheels, and canopies) shipped from Poland. Which is a shame, because I'm really quite interested in these two particular models (a Swedish J-20, i.e. Reggiane 2000, and a North American Harvard IIB). But I'm not $72.24 interested. Sadly, these two kits are not available at the sites I usually buy from.
 
Card models -- it pays to shop.

Bit of a hiccup on the Salmson. The sheet of laser-cut parts for the wings was cut from the wrong thickness of card -- only 0.5 mm instead of 1.0 mm. I suspect the sheet containing the fuselage bulkheads was likewise cut from the wrong thickness, but thickness was less critical for those parts. Anyways, I assembled one wing frame, hoping I could make the thinner parts work, but the resulting structure is very flimsy. So, I made the painful decision to ditch the laser-cut parts and use the printed kit parts after laminating them to some leftover 1.0 mm pulpboard. This means I will now need to cut out 28 parts for the wing frames. Also, because the frame pieces are so narrow in the vertical dimension, cutting out the notches where the parts intersect greatly weakens the pulpboard at that point, so I need to stiffen all of the cut-out parts with thin CA. Depending on how motivated I am, this task may take a few days.