WackoWolf

manufacturing slot:




 
Thread bottom feet:





 
 

Show how everything was done gradually 
Draft Thread


moving eventually worked out the details. First rough and about




moving eventually worked out the details. First rough and about later in more detail. Neponravilis folds of the dress , so was their remodel

Another here. May be cheaper as I think the price includes postage?
 
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/info%5fBB4%2ehtml

I applaud your work sir and will continue to watch this thread with great interest!

From all the historical research to creating your own plans, it’s a tedious but rewarding process.

I too find tracing over and recreating ship plans rewarding and relaxing.

 

As for distortions in the entire process, I know a little bit about that subject.

Just as a rule of thumb, there will always be distortion due to all the steps in creating a printed image.

From artists drawing to:

Camera-film-plate-blanket-pressure-paper stretch-cutter-folding, back to a flatbed/drum scanner, it can’t be helped. You will almost never have a right angle to work from.

 

Do you use autocad in your day to day job?

I would like to address the question of gunports directly above each other.
 
I have never seen a draught which placed the gunports on a dedicated "gundeck" directly in line with the ports of an adjacent dech. But beginning about 1660 or so the ports on a quarter or poop deck could be arranged without regards to the ports on the gundecks below.
There is frequent reference to the portson the quarterdeck being crowded together to reach the "rated" total. Look at the famous model of the HMS Sussex in the US Naval Academy Museum or the HMS Prince (1670) in the Scince Museum collection
 
Later in the 19th century as frigate quarter decks began to be rearmed with carronades the ports would be distributed without taking the ports on the gundeck into consideration. As an example the famous sail plan of the USS Constitution (C&R 27-15-18) as opposed to any of her seceral design draughts.
 
I would also caution you to measure carefully. The "minor ports" are not always evenly spaced.

By the late 1790's decoration was heavily restricted. The full length figure was ditched for a bust or half-length. You'd be safe to go with that.

Hi Mark, thanks for the kind remarks, I find that the problem solving aspects of this hobby to be almost a hobby in themselves. I do enjoy reading about and seeing how the builders on this forum go about solving the different aspects of putting together both the models and the tools.
 
Michael

Bob, no need for an old ceramic tile. Just for fun I took a steel pizza pan from the kitchen and used it. In order to hold the little brass piece to the copper 'rod', I used a straight pin and a magnet to hold it in place.
It took a bit longer because of the thicker copper and it also used more of the paste flux, but it worked.

I show the result along with my second futtock stave to show that my first try worked as well as my second one. It was not an accident.
Notice also the extra glob on the brass piece. I have to be careful where I put the flux/paste.

That was my first reaction, Harvey. But when I actually tried it with this thin wire, I was surprised to see only a slight scorching of the tape edge. When I did the parts above, I held the torch such that the flame was towards the top, away from the tape. The pass with the flame took less than a second for each intersection.
 
The picture above makes it look like I held the flame from the top towards the tape. That is not what I really did.

looks vary nice so far i have the same build as for the staires  what i did was lighty glued the post to a peice of wood then glued the frist 3 steps from the bottom then started the cuve for there step 1mm apart  if u like look at my build u see what i mean good luck with your build keep up the great work

I started this build approx twelve months ago and has been an on and of project. 
Attached are photo's showing how far I have got so far.
1.    Firstly is the front
  
2.    The middle

3.    The rear

4.    In the alcove in the middle I have put livestock which to me looks quite effective.

5.    There is then the top of the 2nd deck front and rear


6.    With the cabins I did not put the cast windows in as I am planning to fit light inside so that they can be turned on at night to make it look effective. Still not completed as you can see.

7.    Next is the front and rear of the 3rd deck

           
8.    The 4th and 5th decks

The stacks had there metal parts dry fitted to see if they fit fine.

9.    The 1st set of stairs which have been a nightmare to complete. The handrail would not go right so I have tried using rope which looks effective. Not yet finished as I need to tidy the ends up, unfortunately the rope that came with the model is not nylon based.

10.  The 2nd set of stairs have been started but a long way to go to get them right.

11.  The paddle wheel has been fitted , only needs the arms on either side fitted to finish it of.

 
This is all that I can show you at precent but will update further when I get more work done. Is there anyone that can give me ideas how to improve my model or advise me of anything I have done wrong. Anybody that has done the stairs I would be very pleased if you could give me some advice as to how to do it correctly.
 

Looking great Wes.  Whatever you do, do NOT stain the decks as per the practicum.  It is a regret I have.
 
 Bob R.

I really do like your crewman's point of view for the camera shots of your planking, and it shows just how good a job you have done!!!

Cheers, Martinw. Jack just got some new equipment and a bottle of port. There is also new lighting - instead of two huge LEDs I've installed short piece of LED strip - more light and it won't be visible through the windows
 
 

 

 
 

The cabin furniture is great!  I can just imagine Jack Aubry gorging himself in there on toasted cheese, or spotted dog.
 
Cheers (or perhaps I should say, Sir, the bottle stands by you!),
 
Martin

Thanks for the honest words, Alistair. As for the badges, they surely won't annoy me later on, 'cause they annoy me already But I needed to hear/read something like this to make a decision and scrap them. I will make new pieces, this time using much harder wood (got a few pieces of acacia left), no soft and fragile lime. 
 
Yes, Doris job is uncomparable, but she does that at different scale and in different universe Cheers, V.

Cheers guys.
 
B.E. the very same occured to me and I tried to use modeller's clay to create the moulding, but it was utter rubbish. So let's forget the galleries for a while and present the captain with a few chairs. Great for small parties with senior officers. 
 
 

 

 

 
 

Tim.
 
As for painting schemes, have a look at the swedish combat boat 90 at the picture below. This vessel is used by the swedish naval infantry since the early 90:ies, mainly as an assault craft, but aslo as med-evac and battalion combat command post. The boat is equipped with three 12,7mm machine guns and one 40mm grenade launcher. It is quite an impressive boat, which I have hade the opportunity to board a number of times.
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stridsbåt_90
 
/Alfons
 
 

Hi Matti and Mark:
Thanks for your suggestion Mark, Now I must  to considered how to distribute the pulleys in the bitts because the number of pieces.  By the way, I see your  Wasa model in the gallery and looks very nice.
 
Matti, anyway will be interesting to see what you will do when you get to this point. Knowing your interest in having the most accurate model probably you will modified the bitts because in the museum pictures they appear with four (the 3 singles ones) and two (the 2 doubles) pulleys per bitt instead of two and one in the model
 
Thanks both of you for your suggestion to begin a new log.
 
Muchos saludos!!

Those carronades look excellent Ray, and the arrangement on the deck suits just fine. As I understand it the arrangement where the bed was fixed thro' the gun port cill was an early one, around 1780 according to Brian Lavery. By 1795 when Diana received her carronades, Lavery at least suggests the pad arrangement was typical.
 
B.E.

The nine pound carriage guns were made up in the same way as were the eighteen pounders. The caronades were made up in stages as shown in the photos, I first looked for the tackle arrangement and used the one that seems most common, the issue was the fixing of the front carriage pin it shows it pinned through the bulwark on the bottom of the gun port, the problem with this would be, in lowering the bottom of the port to keep the cartridge level, it would be to low and look wrong, so I looked at every photo of caronades I could find, on models, and as mounted on H M S Victory, and most had the front swivel pin going through a block mounted on the deck in front of the port, so that is how I built mine.I am just starting to rig them in place.
 
Carriage parts

 
assembling carriages


Carriages built up minus barrels and some rigging eyes

Extra rigging brackets from spruce and 3mm rings

Made up and painted

On deck working out how the rigging will run

ZyXuz,
 
Good to hear from you again.
 
On your stove - if you want an iron stove but don't want to metal bash, have you considered using styrene sheet? It is easy to use, particularly if you use solvent glues. Producing rivet or bolt detail is simple. It produces a good representation of metal work. The down side is that you have to paint it.
 
Alternatively - the Unicorn may well have had one of the old brick hearths. Remco has made a fine one for his Kingfisher. If you haven't seen it have a look starting  here .  Miniature bricklaying at its best!  

Hi Sam,
I think there are some strips in correct thickness, but I need wider ones for other purposes. One of them is the belfry like how B.E. did..
 

 
I even planned to use it to make the stove, by making the basic shape out of wood first and then only wrap up using the sheet.. lol I tried, and gave up will just apply on the belfry i think

Welcome back Z! Good to see your work again. I am curious why you bought a sheet instead of strips? Were strips not available in the correct thickness?
Sam

ZyXuz,
 
Very nice update. Very creative idea. Looks brilliant.
 
Michael