russ
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Everything posted by russ
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Very nice work so far. The hull looks great. Russ
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Fletch: You need to call them rather than email. That will get you someone answering the phone and you will be able to speak directly to them. They may or may not reply to an email. If you want to get an answer, call them. As for the lack of symmetry, if that is the case, then it may because the plans were originally hand drawn and they simply traced only one side of the patterns into CAD for laser cutting purposes. This and the print to fit option have been used by many companies. Yes, they should do better, but any number of variations on these themes is what you may be dealing with. Russ
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They may have printed the plans to fit on a given size of paper. If the parts are all off by the same amount, it is likely that the parts are all okay and that the plans were printed to fit on a given size sheet and that has altered the scale of the plans. Russ
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Richard: The hull looks good. If you had not mentioned the problems, I doubt anyone would know. Good work. Russ
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Don: Your completed model looks really great. Congratulations. Wonderful work. Russ
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Good work so far. Regarding your hull not holding its shape when taking it off the jig, I have always added a temporary beam across the hull on the inside of the planking to keep the hull stretched to its proper breadth until I can get some framing in the hull. Once you get the side frames in there, it will stiffen up nicely and the temporary stretcher can be removed. Russ
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Zinc-plated hull
russ replied to Seamus107's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
That sounds like Muntz metal sheathing. This is a material composed of copper and zinc. It was used much like the earlier copper plating for underwater protection. To model it, it would be applied like copper sheathing on a model. The color might be a little more goldish that copper. Russ -
John: I see the twist. It does not look that sudden, but it is there for sure. Great work. Russ
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The first planks look good. Not much twist in the after planks, but that will change in the lower band. Russ
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The deck line is important on a boat like this. It will mark the sheer line of the boat. I would start there, complete the upper belt, and then work the bottom belt from the keel upward. Then you can finish with the middle belt. The middle belt has the probably the easiest planks to fit with very little curvature. Russ
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I would get all of your marks on the frames on one side and then carefully duplicate them on the other side. That will give you the symmetry you desire. Russ
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The black stripe
russ replied to SaturnV's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Triton originally had its bottom coated with white stuff and that might have extended up to the bottom edge of the wales. Chances are that the blackening of the wales would not have extended below the wales. Russ -
Recommendations for soldering equipment
russ replied to Landlubber Mike's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Michael: I think they have the icons misaligned with the article titles. Shoot Chuck a PM and I am sure he can set it right. Russ -
John: I agree. The battens look like everything is faired pretty well. Great work. Russ
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Question reg. Masts, Booms ,Halyards for Benjamin Latham
russ replied to Hog2sail's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Eddie: A good general rule is to add as much detail as possible before mounting the masts and spars to the model. Pre rig the halyards, sheets etc as well. Once you mount the masts and spars it is very difficult to make a good job of adding any other details. Russ -
A plank on frame kit would have the pieces of each frame laser cut out of hardwood not plywood. You would have to then assemble each frame, building it up from its constituent laser cut pieces. Once again, there are no other POF kits out there except for the Lumberyard kit previously mentioned that w0uld fit your criteria. Everything else will be POB. Russ
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The only kits that might fit your bill would be plank on bulkhead style clipper ship kits. There are plenty of those around that would be in the 3-4 ft size. As for plank on frame kits, I seriously doubt there is anything like what you want. You would be better off using a set of contemporary plans and scratch building. Russ
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John: She really looks good. Great work. Looking forward to planking. Russ
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Anything high temp requires a torch. Irons will not get that hot. Iron is for soft soldering, torch is for silver or hard soldering, aka brazing. Any low temp solder is for use with an iron and therefore is for soft soldering. To silver/hard solder you need a torch and to use a torch, you need a silver solder with a high melt temp. Russ
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The Solder it is not meant for silver soldering. It is far too low a temp. It can be used with an iron, but this is just soft soldering. Again, soft soldering is like gluing two pieces together while silver soldering is like welding; it makes two pieces into one piece. Yes, the paste is a little pricey, but it will last you several years. I generally buy a tube every 4-5 years. Russ
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David: You mean the solder Richard mentioned? Russ
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Richard: Here is what I use. http://sra-solder.com/silver-brazing-paste/ Look for STL 1205-655. Russ
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Richard: Practice does help a lot, but I would encourage you to look into the prefluxed soldering paste. Jeweler's supply houses will sell it under brazing materials. I just got some new stock the other day. It makes it easier not having to worry about applying flux and then a chip of silver. Russ
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Those straps would have been done in rope, but it will not be that noticeable a difference. Russ
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Richard: I use prefluxed soldering paste and I have never had a problem with it. Russ
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