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Posts posted by NMBROOK
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Who would of thought a bit of silicon,toothpick and tape could look so effective! Excellent Michael
Kind Regards
Nigel
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Fabulous model,congratulations MartynDon't keep us in suspense,go on what's next?
Kind Regards
Nigel
- EJ_L and BLACK VIKING
- 2
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Michael there is a useful guide to Leds on this website,this is where I get my LEDS and various other items for my RC builds.
https://www.componentshop.co.uk/
Kind Regards
Nigel
P.S. make sure you follow the guide to voltage,required voltage varies with the colour of the LED,too low it won't work,too high it will blow.This is why you quite often have to incorporate resistors in the circuit.
- popeye the sailor, maddog33 and EJ_L
- 3
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Excellent work Michael.Two suggestions re lanterns.One is to cast them with the LED inside using clear casting resin.Other option would be to buy larger LEDS and file to shape.The body is clear epoxy I believe so should shape and polish with files and wet and dry abrasive.
Kind Regards
Nigel
- md1400cs, EJ_L, CaptainSteve and 2 others
- 5
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It has been a while since I visited your log Jason due to not being around much of late.I must say this is one of the cleanest,sharpest kit based builds I have seen.I am also an advocate of Tamiya dark iron.It also works well with a little very light drybrushing of flat aluminium.
Kind Regards
Nigel
- Old Collingwood, mtaylor, egkb and 1 other
- 4
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Excellent work Michael
If I may interject,rather than painting your metalwork plain black,try Tamiya XF-84 dark iron acrylic.This is a matt paint that trust me looks so much more appealing than plain black.A light dusting of their aerosol fine surface primer is adviseable though to prevent paint lifting in the future.Not so much of a chore if you hold several parts down to a board with double sided tape and spray a few at once.Just a thought
Kind Regards
Nigel
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Excellent work MarkTamiya do masking tape up to 40mm wide I think and is low tack.Dampening the veneer can also help to reduce splitting when cutting.Just make sure it is bone dry before gluing.Only thing you can't use both as the tape won't stickI have found life easier to roughly cut the spiled plank oversize,then trimming the edge that butts the fitted plank first.This can then be held to the hull with tape to mark the second edge.Cut slightly oversize then shape with a sanding stick.
Kind Regards
Nigel
- marktiedens and md1400cs
- 2
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I am bit late to the party Michael,great startI look forward to following your progress including refinement and alteration to what is supplied in the standard kit.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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Lovely work MartynI still have a massive soft spot for this vessel.
Kind Regards
Nigel
- md1400cs, BLACK VIKING and EJ_L
- 3
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Great work OC and a very clean sharp paintjob
Kind Regards
Nigel
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Michael a thought springs to mind if you are going to scratchbuild a lantern.If you are going to make a globe shaped one,like this model is often depicted with,then a clear marble or glass crystal sphere would make an ideal base for attaching the frame to and it would act as the 'glazing'.
Kind Regards
Nigel
P.S. Lotus Espirits utilised a Renault 25 transaxle
- md1400cs, CaptainSteve, EJ_L and 2 others
- 5
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Fabulous work BobI am trying my best to catch up after a long period of absence.You have completed one build and Well on the way with another
Kind Regards
Nigel
- Canute, egkb and popeye the sailor
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Dunno Mark,I tried it yesterday,but it kept including an image from my first post.Need to read up on it as I think it has changed with the new forum platform.
Kind RegardsNigel
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Looking forward to following on Mark
Kind Regards
Nigel
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Catching up with your work after a long absence from the forum,all I can say is WOW!Incredible work Marsalv
Kind Regards
Nigel
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Excellent work Michael and a very detailed and informative insight of the work involved in rigging a model of a larger vessel
I am undecided whether it is better to model a ship with little historical info or one like yours with several sources of info,but ones that at times contradict each other
Kind Regards
Nigel
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Mark congratulations on the completion of a magnificent model
I look forward in anticipation of what is next
Kind Regards
Nigel
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Hi Ferit
Fabulous to see you active again my friend. I haven't been around for a long time either mainly due to work demands but hope things will improve a little as the New year progresses
Kind regards
Nigel
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Thank you very much FMartin Not much going on this end in the way of model building,work is ballistic at the moment and looks like being that way for several months.
I didn't find anything other than the museum model and kits plans so there are numerous examples of 'artistic license' in my build.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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Hi Geoff
With pine (provided you are not cutting through any knots) I would say cut the depth of the diameter and you will be OK i.e. 3mm deep for 3mm diameter etc.I would not go any deeper than 1mm for a 1mm cutter,you are more likely to snap the cutter rather than burn it out in this instance.I would halve this rule for harder woods
Kind Regards
Nigel
Prince de Neufchatel by rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
Posted
Just had a very pleasurable read through your log Bob,great work!
Kind Regards
Nigel