NMBROOK
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Everything posted by NMBROOK
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Glad to hear you have managed a little build time mate.Your masts are coming on well,with some great detailing .There is certainly a lot more work involved in these than one would expect at first glance.Your model is developing a wonderful 'organic' look to the colours and I love the contrast with lighter shades on the deck and masting Kind Regards Nigel -
Thanks mate !!!!Having to think in curves and not straight lines with this build,my ruler is just about redundant Kind Regards Nigel
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I would go for it Eamonn and yes the name of said deckhouse escapes me aswell.That would certainly add to the build.A thin ply 'box' painted black inside that drops into the opening and holds the steps would create the desired effect. Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you very much indeed Mij for your kind words Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you very much indeed Nils .Unfortunately there is no entry port on this vessel to place a door mat .On a serious note,yes the internal faces of the bow will be fully planked,but there is a small between wale area at the bow on the outside that will be visible.This is the reason for using layers of pear in this area. Kind Regards Nigel
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My original plan was to use a blond Shellac to tone down the difference in tones because to be honest,I am struggling to get pear all the same colour.Strips cut out of the same piece are no guarantee as the strips were ripped off the edge of the same 6mm sheet !!.However,when I gave the deck a wipe down with white spirit to remove sanding dust,I fell in love with the tones that shown up.The dry strip looks the same colour,it is the different levels of absorbancy that causes the colour shift. I am still undecided regarding treenails,my original plan included representation in copper of several different sizes depending on location.I am concerned that there presence will break up the wood tones and I feel possibly that on this occasion,less may be more.I have plenty of time to deliberate as at this rate,it will be another month before the other side gets to this stage. .Either way,I would apply some finish first as you can drill a cleaner hole in the Pear that way,as some areas you can encounter 'soft spots' in the wood. Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you very much indeed Pete for your kind words just got the other side to do now Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you very much indeed Dave for your kind words I shall post a mini tutorial in due course.it is fairly self explanatory,just a couple of things to watch for that may not be the case when using black paper.The best thing is that with things like scarph joints is that one continuous piece can be used instead of different pieces for each face,like you would do with paper. Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you very much indeed Sjors With what the wood is costing for this build,I dread to think how much it would cost to floor a domestic room Kind Regards Nigel
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She is really taking shape buddy Nice work on the gratings,I am right in thinking the remaining opening is for some steps?.Using glasspaper on the deck to shape the underside is something i do as well.It works particularly well with removable superstructures on RC builds,obviously fitting the combing after carrying this out. Kind Regards Nigel
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After a little absence,I have something of an update.Aside from very little time,my broadband connection is giving me grief Either lightning fast or more commonly working at a snails past.I shall contact my provider and give them what for when in the right frame of mind. Anyway,half the deck planked,given a scrape and light sand and then a couple of coats of poly to prevent glue marks whilst working on the other side.I have moved away from shellac as firstly,I like the variation of tones and secondly it means I can use my acrylic ageing techniques should I choose.I am ,due to the pleasing appearance,considering NOT treenailing and risk spoiling the effect. The other side of the hull is now built and shaped so my next job is to sort the upper gunport frames on this side. Kind Regards Nigel
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I am Considering a Plastic Build and Need Advice
NMBROOK replied to BANYAN's topic in Plastic model kits
You do pose a very valid point Chris,having just seen Gen-D's Halinski build on the paper modelers forum,I am left gasping in wonderment and disbelief . Kind Regards Nigel -
I am Considering a Plastic Build and Need Advice
NMBROOK replied to BANYAN's topic in Plastic model kits
Hi Pat Nothing wrong with plastic,but everything wrong with the Arii kit.There is so much wrong with it and the Doyusha version in 1/250,that you really would be better starting from scratch.If you are determined to build a large plastic Yamato,then the Nichimo 1/200 is a much better starting point and gold medal models do a full photoetch package for it.The snag is Nichimo folded a few months ago,so Ebay is your only real option.The kit still needs work as it is an old production,but not a complete redesign like the others.You may get lucky in that one of the Japanese suppliers may still have one,but this kit was only ever produced in batches so availability was limited anyway.You could join me in the hope that Trumpeter decide to produce one in 1/200(although I do have the Nichimo kit as well ) Kind Regards Nigel -
La Couronne by majq - Mantua - 1:98
NMBROOK replied to majq's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1501 - 1750
Hi Michal I remember your log from the previous MSW although I was not a member then.She looks fabulous Your build has reminded me what a magnificent model she can be built into.I was toying with building her many years ago,but my attention was drawn away with other projects.I may well have to look again at this model in the future as she is what I would describe as an archetypal 'galleon' with many characterful and unusual features. Fabulous work! Kind Regards Nigel -
Hi Captain Al Glue does actually stick to Polyurethane pretty well,it is the bond between coats of poly that is the weak link.Whichever route you choose it is advisable to abrade the surface where glue is applied and fit brass dowels to stressed items.Most varnishes have a brown tinge to them which will turn the deck yellow.The only varnish I can almost guarantee won't is produced by caldercraft and is advertised as not changing the colour of the wood.There are other true clears available but these are not really designed for wood,so longevity could come into question. Regarding weathering,some members are experimenting with a product called weather-it,but I haven't used it before.If you have had some plastic modelling experience and are proficient at doing washes,then this is a possible route,Matti's Vasa build being a testimony to this.It may be an idea to apply some of the Caldercraft varnish beforehand though as you deck will absorb acrylic paint like mad and make it harder to control the depth of the wash. Kind Regards Nigel
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That looks interesting Ulises,some of the sample pics look really good.It is very much a case of actually buying some to be able to see whether it is as good as it looks in the pics.I have never seen this product before. Kind Regards Nigel
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To clear up any confusion,here is the link to my sourcehttp://commentatorpicturegallery.blogspot.co.uk/2007/10/st-petersburg-battleship-potemkinit-is.html Kind Regards Nigel
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Jason is right with pontemkin Nigel
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Hi Marisstella I was referring to post number 15 in the description of your kits Kind Regards Nigel
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Close Jason,but not Aurora I am afraid Kind Regards Nigel P.S.have thoroughly checked this picture is what it says it is
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Thank you very much indeed Mark for such a nice post I did find your thread very interesting and the pics were great. I think with building models like most things,nothing is black or white or right or wrong.There are many methods to achieve the desired result and I try to demonstrate why I chose one particular technique over another one. Kind Regards Nigel
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Ok giving the Japanese stuff a miss for now.Here is something a little different and hope it doesn't prove too difficult as won't be online much tomorrow. Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Nemad Having worked on the Cutty Sark structural restoration,i did query the new tiles with one of my then company directors.He confirmed the tiles were the correct Muntz metal as originally fitted and the colour is true to the original.In a visit to my local model shop,I found KS now offer rolls of wafer thin foil in larger sheets to what they normally supply in there packets.They come in a clear and plastic square tube.Ideal for your requirements but they are expensive.Brass and copper were definitely available.I think brass is a very close likeness to the original.For killing the shine I would opt for either satin or matt polyurethane sprayed on. Kind Regards Nigel
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It is always good to see a new manufacturer on the block Marisstella Many points of your design I like a lot.Plenty of bulkheads and the aeropiccola style doweling.With straight dowels and accurate holes(helped by the use of laser and not the antiquated methods employed by the now defunct aeropiccola),you can almost guarantee a true hull with exceptional torsional strength when it comes to planking . Only thing I am unsure of is your choice of Oak,especially at the smaller scales,but I will be quite happy if you prove me to be wrong Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Mate I am curious,did you raise the beef cattle,harvest the wheat and are the eggs from your own chickens?Only then could it be considered a 'true' scratchbuild lasagne by some Sorry couldn't resist Hope you enjoy the film. Kind Regards Nigel
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