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Everything posted by NMBROOK
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Only page 2 mate? I used the search facility to find Caroline's log I am sorry to hear of your trials and tribulations,but glad to hear you have found a solution I look forward to the pics Kind Regards Nigel
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Mayflower by SawdustDave - Finished
NMBROOK replied to SawdustDave's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Not just one,but two great builds going on at once Dave I certainly don't envy the task of masking and painting all those little triangles I have had a look at your blog,great site and more great models It must feel a little strange but bring satisfaction to see at first hand,the evolution of your modelling ability,I no longer have in my possession the models that I made when I first started out.I think Victory and Confederacy are a testimony as to how far you have come in such a small space of time. Kind Regards Nigel -
ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
NMBROOK replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
It is great to see more updates of your fabulous work Doris Your build serves as a reminder to me just how far I still have to go with my Royal Caroline before she is anyway near completion Kind Regards Nigel- 881 replies
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frame protrudes from deck
NMBROOK replied to harbm's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
All I mean is to fair the bulkheads down flush to the deck being careful not to remove material from the deck edge Kind Regards Nigel -
frame protrudes from deck
NMBROOK replied to harbm's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I feel this is among the normal discrepancies found with some kits.Personally I would fair the frames down using the deck as the template.This way you are sure to maintain symmetry which could otherwise show up when the deck is planked.To be on the safe side,I would draw a centreline on the deck and check the distance to the deck edge each side.I have known that sometimes even laser cut decks to be unsymmetrical.If all is well then you are safe to use the ply deck as your template. Kind Regards Nigel -
Congratulations Mark on the completion of a very fine model Sat here with excitement and anticipation on what you will tackle next in your 'stash' Kind Regards Nigel
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Outstanding work Alex I love your choice of deep rich woodtones.Rather than being a 'slave' to historical exactness regarding colours,your approach is an expression of your personality and gives your model a 'soul'.I feel this makes the model more than worthy of being a piece of art as others have touched on. Kind Regards Nigel
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As well as a central pin,one trick that works well,that I learnt from Keith Julier's books,is to drag the complete carriage very lightly over abrasive paper on a flat surface.This puts a tiny flat on each wheel,you can apply a little glue to these flats and it is not visible when fitted.For some reason the carriages look better as they seem fitted rather than hovering on the surface,I can't explain why,it must be one of those tricks on the eye Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Jack I have to concur with what others have said,the nails look fabulous and looking back at the older pictures,the ship just looked bare without them.I know you will have no regrets joining the NRG,I find some of the articles in the journals a mine of information.Sadly distance prevents me from attending any of their gatherings,at least for the time being,but one day I do agree with Vivian,you are certainly helping promote Billings' kit.It took me all my time not to pull the trigger on one this week on Ebay Kind Regards Nigel
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Thanks Buddy I am pottering along at a sedate pace,but try to get a little done,no matter how small it is still a step in the right direction I did focus more on Norske love last weekend but will focus more on Mordaunt's deck planking this weekend(in between appointment with estate agent and cleaning/resanding driveway ) Kind Regards Nigel
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Thanks Geoff At the moment I have hardly anytime for modelling or MSW .I would much rather have the time and a much smaller workspace,afterall I haven't always had the workshop for the duration of the time I have been modeling.You never know,I may find somewhere with a workspace but I am preparing myself for worst case scenario Kind Regards Nigel
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WOW Michael,that is some seriously impressive detail work !!!! I couldn't help but keep enlarging the pictures!! Kind Regards Nigel
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Thanks Sjors Yes you will see the end result Truth is,I took a new job four months ago.Whilst the job is fantastic,the 80 mile a day commute and 74 hours a week out of the house through work isn't .The house is going up for sale with a view to relocation closer.This means I have to be prepared to be without the large workshop and may be restricted to a kitchen table or spare room for some time.This is the reason for flitting between builds as I want to get the biggest mess making jobs out the way.I will then have a few years of fitting out,masting and rigging without concerns over space Kind Regards Nigel
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double planking glue
NMBROOK replied to leroy's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hi David Gorilla now make several different glues but the packaging nearly all looks the same I have some of the 'foaming' stuff,but they do make a regular PVA type wood glue as well now. Kind Regards Nigel -
Hi Mark and welcome to the forum If your planking is starting to take a 'clinker' fashion then it is most certainly because the previously laid planks required some tapering.If you should if you read the planking tutorials it gives you a good idea of the correct way to plank using stripwood.You want to look at the beginners one rather than the ones involving cutting shaped planks from sheet. Kind Regards Nigel
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The "first CUT is the deepest"
NMBROOK replied to AndrewNaylor's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hi Andy If you are using a close clearance insert in the table,I find the depth gauge on the end of a digital vernier handy.Rock the blade back and forth by hand to ensure you are measuring the cutting edge at top dead centre(obviously disconnect power before hand etc etc) Kind Regards Nigel -
Thank you Mark I did mention to Bob((Rafine) that I am seriously considering not including the armament.I really do like the appearance of the museum model and would rather the model was a display of woodwork and carving.I have put further thought in that I may stick to pear and ebony,i.e. produce the carvings in pear.The ebony would portray the black painted areas on the museum model.In addition to the norm,the main deck hatch combings and waterways are black on the museum model,I do like this feature and will represent this on the model. I do now plan on leaving the remaining decks unplanked,but may include the decks in the main cabins to allow some interior detail,I quite fancy making some 1/60 furniture .All other interior details will be shown,i.e. capstans,ladders etc.According to Franklin's book,as the anchor hawse holes are higher than the lower deck,the museum model shows raised wooden channel'guides' for these ropes.I will show these,but in the absence of definite material,they will have to be an 'educated guess'. Kind Regards Nigel
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Fabulous work Bob The big updates are coming thick and fast as you are past the dreaded cannon rigging stage I have decided to take the controversial decision not to include the armament on Mordaunt and leave the remaining decks unplanked to fully display the interior,well maybe the main cabin so I can include a table or two The museum model has no armament and I do like the look,also gets me out of rigging umpteen cannons Kind Regards Nigel
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