NMBROOK
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Hi Mark I have Donald Dressell's book.I agree with Brian,this is an excellent read.The tutorials on here are excellent,however the book provides the background information into the why's and wherefore's before getting 'stuck in'.I do think you will find the book will answer many of the questions you ask and probably a few you haven't thought of yet. Kind Regards Nigel -
Fabulous work Bob I do really like the contrast between the box and the black channels I shall wish you many Happy returns for both you and your model for this weekend just in case I don't get chance to pop in If I look half as good as you do mate,when I get to 75,I will be a happy man,I never would of guessed Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Mark There are actually three styles to plank a model in.Firstly,the kit route,which is dictated by the fact that you use precut strips.Second,the as the original route which will include the odd drop plank and stealer and finally the contemporary model style.This is as the original models were planked and does not follow the practice on the original.The later two,invariably require spilling as bending parallel strip into complex compound curves creates problems. The theory behind putting thread,lining tape or whatever onto the bare hull structure to divide the area up,is to ensure the planking adopts pleasing 'lines' when viewed form different angles,if you divide the whole area up in one go,the planking will adopt some strange lines due the changes in hull form.The planking widths are not necessarily all the same width throughout the lower hull at each station line to create the 'flowing' appearance.This is a very simplified explanation on a discussion that could easily go into pages and pages. Kind regards Nigel
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Hi Nick She is looking good It is awfully hard to explain in words how to go about the garboard.I would divide the remaining section at the sternpost to give you the garboard width there.Then divide up the section up where the bearding line starts(about just over a third of the hull overall length in the last pic,working from the sternpost.This would give you a straight sided taper for that section.Run the garboard parallel along the keel rabbet until where you last plank starts to swing upward when viewed from the side as it goes to the bow(looks about 5 or 6 inches back from the front scarph joint)The garboard's outboard edge then wants to mimmick the upward sweep of the above planks.This is less about hard and fast rules and more about asthetics when planking in a contemporary style.Your best bet is to start with masking tape or a card template and keep playing with the shape until it follows this line.It is just this bow section that will be hard,the stern area is straight forward to draw out on tape placed in position.You will find the developed shape of this plank to look weird quite frankly,but that is how it should be.The true developed shape shouldn't look anything like a straight plank.The garboard is usually wider amidships than other planks to allow for the material fitted into the keel rabbet,when fitted it should look the same.I hope this helps rather than adds to the confusion,as I said it is hard to explain.If in doubt,you can always place a length of tape in position and draw the edge of the garboard on it,then post a pic so we can see if you are heading in the right direction Kind Regards Nigel
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Soon found it Just google CMK (Czech Master Kits) u-boat resin interior.I didn't want to post pics as they may be copyrighted and there are mountains of pics on google images.Three kits are necessary to do the full interior as they have divided the boat into three sections,Engine room,Torpedo room and command center. Kind Regards Nigel
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Now that is simply AWESOME Michael!!!!I take it you have looked at his 66 page log on the dutch forum,linked in the text.I will find details on the kit interior and post back.It does remind me of my Hasegawa Akagi build for detail parts.I have made a small start and am currently waiting for some 1/350 portholes from Russia.I will start a log when I collate all the parts together,and start work in earnest. Kind Regards Nigel
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A step back out of the financial stratosphere Some one makes a resin and photo etch upgrade kit for Revell's 1/72 U boat.This includes a full interior.A smaller scale I know,however much,much cheaper Sorry can't remember the manufacturer,I stumbled upon it on Facebook. Kind Regards Nigel
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Looks a very nice model.If it is 150 parts(I cannot find the mentioned on the website),personally I would rather save up for the Engel U boat for that sort of cash. I have to agree with Antony,I am deeply envious of the timber availability in the US Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Dave Vivian raises a good idea.If you check Alex Banarov's Cumberland build in the scratch section,he demonstrates good use of copper strip 'busbars' to provide a power source to the LEDs at each deck level.In the UK,just google 'the component shop'.They are the main source of LEDs over here for modelmakers.They also give advice on installation and wiring on their website Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Chris I think you know my vote goes for Prince Given your attention to detail on Victory,it would make a nice change for me to build something almost out of the box .I say almost,as I would probably swap the walnut for swiss pear .No rush,I have umpteen projects on the go for the meantime Kind Regards Nigel As we are both members of the European Union,why don't we get the same holidays as Italy?????
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Mayflower by SawdustDave - Finished
NMBROOK replied to SawdustDave's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Outstanding work Dave Achieving that level of consistency of the geometric shapes is no mean feat!!! Kind Regards Nigel -
I don't think you are Jason,I understand your reasoning Kind Regards Nigel
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Apologies for being a latecomer Stuart Your build is coming on fabulously I think the large size of the model,even at 1/100 is testimony to how large the vessel actually was.It is a good number of years since I visited the original,but will no doubt pay her another visit as I am keen to see the Mary Rose in her new surroundings.The brass foundry is a great find and I have bookmarked them for future reference,they are only down the road from me. Kind Regards Nigel
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Congratulations on the bending Bob ,I admit I thought you wouldn't get that,I shall view you as the Uri Geller of wood bending from now on Your model is looking fabulous,it serves as a testimony as to what can be achieved from a kit . Kind Regards Nigel
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Fabulous attention to detail and accuracy Jason You are quite obviously raising your benchmark even further with the experience gained from your previous builds.The 'stepped' rabbet to accommodate the double planking is a first as far as I know,but makes perfect sense . Kind Regards Nigel
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Who makes the best model ships ??? - moved by moderator
NMBROOK replied to Gundorph's topic in Wood ship model kits
I have to agree with shihawk,but if you are new to the hobby,I would recommend one of the smaller vessels from Caldercraft or Victory models.For the best materials and plans,you are hard to beat Euromodel,however you really need to have built a few other kits beforehand before I would recommend tackling one of those. At the end of the day,it is down to what kit is best for you?You can't really generalise and have a universal 'best kit manufacturer'. Kind Regards Nigel -
Hi mate The only thing with a deadbolt on one door and latch on the other,would be it wouldn't tally up with handles on both doors on the outside(at least it looks like two handles on the outside from your pics).You could put handles on both sides and use a length of wire on each side to depict a dropbolt on each side connected to the handle.This wouldn't be too hard,you could just paint and glue the wire directly to the inside of the door.I don't know of any factual reference for what would have been fitted,so I think as long as it is plausible,anything goes.. Thank you Kester,I have had a very enjoyable day,just suffering temporary semi-paralysis after consumption of a rather large Fillet Steak Kind Regards Nigel
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Thanks mate Kind Regards Nigel
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Your model is developing a wonderful aura of 'life' about her as you add layer upon layer of detail to her decks Wonderful work Nils! Kind Regards Nigel
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Your doghouse looks fabulous mate Those hinges are certainly tiny,I can see why the fun and games.I do agree some sort of latch on the inside is the way to go to finish everything off.Black or Tamiya dark iron(my preferred choice)may be the thing for the ironmongery.You could always add a little dry brushing in silver for the finishing touch Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you very much indeed Janos,Geoff,Brian and Nils My apologies,I have done my housekeeping and had an 'inbox' clearout now Kind Regards Nigel
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ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
NMBROOK replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Exceptional work as always Doris!! Kind Regards Nigel- 881 replies
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Hi Boyd I have just had a very enjoyable read through your log.I must say that the stripes through different woods is the approach I would adopt should I tackle Victory.I must say that is some wonderfully clean sharp planking and woodwork in general .I have little experience working with some of the more unusual timbers CMB seem to stock these days,but the traditional Pear,box and ebony command exorbitant premiums in the UK so I can understand your reasoning behind your choices.I really like the mellow tones you have achieved with your timber selection The best way I found when determining post varnished timber colours before applying finish,is to lay the strips out and wipe them all over with a white spirit soaked rag.This simulates as near as possible the varnished colours.To be honest,I gave up on Mordaunt as cutting Pear planks from the same strip still results in massive variations in tone,some planks even change colour half way along!! Kind Regards Nigel
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I would have said "cooking with gas" mate,whether that is a Yorkshire saying,I am not sure? A little coating of polyurethane on the hinges when the glue is hard will stiffen them further Kind Regards Nigel
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