NMBROOK

A little earlier than promised.I thought it would be helpful to others to post a list of contents as I have all four of Keith's books. The Period ship Handbook ISBN 1-85486-081-X Royal William-Euromodels Will Everard-Billings Faroes Yawl FD 10-Billings Hannah-A.Latina La Toulonnaise-A.Latina Berlin-Corel San Juan Nepomuceno-A Latina USS Constellation-A Latina Charles w Morgan-A Latina Square sterned whaleboat-Panart New Bedford whaleboat-Amati The Period ship Handbook 2 ISBN 1-85486-132-8 Royal yacht Caroline-Panart La Renommee-Euromodels Armed Pinnace-Panart 15th cent Portugese Caravel-Artenaval Sir Winston Churchill-Billings Lancha Bombardiera 1798-Artenaval Holly rowing boat-Kish model boats Le Hussard-A Latina Yacht Britannia-Mamoli A frontiersman's canoe-The Frontier trading company of South Africa The Period ship Handbook 3 ISBN 1-85486-200-6 Bellona-Corel HMS Unicorn-Corel Portsmouth-Mamoli See ewer Elbe-Constructo San Felipe-Panart Bounty's jolly boat-A Latina Hms Victory cross section-Corel Pride of Baltimore II-Model Shipways Bounty-Amati The American whaling brig Viola-scratchbuild The New Period Ship Handbook ISBN 1-85486-233-2 HMS Victory-Caldercraft Lady Nelson-Victory models HMS Mars-Caldercraft Endeavour J class 1934-Amati Bounty-Amati HMS Agamemnon-Caldercraft English Carronade-Mantua Endeavour-Caldercraft HMS Victory launch-Panart In addition,each book contains a section illustrating building techniques Kind Regards Nigel

I am no computer genius Nenseth,I think the thing to remember is to photograph each important step, worry about how to make sense of it in a log later I am sure you will be very pleased with Falmouth when you receive it,and well worth the wait Good luck with your build and I look forward to seeing your log. Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Soren Much depends on what scale you are working to.The neatest way is to glue thin black paper to one edge and end of each plank,however obviously depending on the paper thickness,it can look too much on the smaller scales.For the smaller scales,pencil,or mixing a little black ink with the glue can be used.The result from the ink method is dependent on the absorbency of the timber so experimentation is advised.A permanent marker can be used but again do a trial run to check it doesn't bleed too much into the wood.I think in all cases making a little 'dummy' section of deck with the same timber as the model is the best way.You can make a sample of each and see what you prefer.Apply what ever finish you will be using,I use the pencil method and after sanding you can't see it,however after applying the poly I use,the appearance changes dramatically. Kind Regards Nigel

Congratulations Nenseth,a very nice ship and a lovely model Are you planning a build log?Things are slowly starting to hot up with Euromodels builds Kind Regards Nigel

This is an interesting question Kester In Russia there is a state funded body(can't remember what it's called and certainly won't be able to spell it),that promotes and judges model ship builders similar to an olympic committee.Competition wise there is of course Naviga which is regarded amongst the toughest of competitions.One of our members Garward,won a Gold medal there for his Le Fleuron cannon model Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Marc Here is the link to his Rivoli build on the Russian forum,and this one works It will give you an idea of the level in question.In Russia building model ships is a sport and the champions have almost the same 'fame' as say a footballer in the UK or a basketball player in the US. Any modeler who makes his own nails from solid silver(for the colour) and then fits over 100 in each gunport lid is at the top of their game in my book. http://forum.modelsworld.ru/topic3439.html Kind Regards Nigel

If I get chance at the weekend Richard,I will put a post up showing the models covered in each of the four books,because you aren't the first to ask about their contents,then it will be up for everyone to see. Kind Regards Nigel

Thank you very much indeed again Brian for giving me the 'heads up' on this one.Yes it was very interesting,he is an extremely talented modelmaker.I think the general message that does come across is the fact that while he may have a reasonable selection of Proxxon tools,most operations are done using normal or modified hand tools,no fancy cnc machines or laboratory conditions.In fact his workshop is smaller than mine!(at least when mine is tidy ) I did particularly like the movement joints concealed under the central planking to allow for expansion and contraction of the timber,that is one feature I will be copying.Like I said,shame about the hull plating.Apparently he melts hot belt glue sticks in a pan and spreads the glue on the tiles with a notched spreader.These plates are reheated on a hotplate prior to fitting.He has stipulated never to use CA to glue these on as the bond weakens with natural movement of the timber.It would have been nice to see it on film. Kind Regards Nigel

My apologies Kester,the homepage no longer seems to be valid.the link above that Pete has shown does.They do also have a page on Facebook.They have made some changes to the site as they were experiencing problems with Paypal transactions.I originally tried to order mine in December,but encountered issues with the Paypal in that it wouldn't take the payment.I did receive an email last month from them addressing this issue.I should have copied and pasted from my email,but was lazy and used the address on the box Kind Regards Nigel

I received my copy of the DVD today after a short wait for it to come from the USA.In a nutshell and Australian film crew spent 8 weeks filming with Dr Mike in his workshop.Michael Bezverhny is a Russian master modelmaker who at the time this DVD was produced,was the only modeler to ever score a perfect 500/500 in the world shipmodeling championships.He is actually a fully qualified heart surgeon who earns more money building ships to commission.I only actually stumbled on this DVD by per chance when looking at Dr Mike's work on the internet.I do thank Brian C for confirming it was well worth the purchase as he already had a copy.This DVD is by no means a new release,but doesn't appear to have been mentioned here before. The DVD is just over three hours long and rather than actually following the build of a specific model,Dr Mike demonstrates various techniques used throughout the build process,however is work in progress build 'Rivoli' is used many times to illustrate where the various techniques apply. Don't expect a Steven Spielberg production as the editing is amateurish and a little disjointed in places,however the is nothing amateurish about the work being demonstrated.On the whole,any builder whatever there level of experience will learn something from this DVD.My only disappointment was that Dr Mike's hot melt adhesive technique for hull plating wasn't shown. So if you fancy an insight into how IMHO one of the finest,if not the finest model shipbuilders in the world does it,this is well worth a look. Details can be found at www.modelshipbuildingsecrets.com I am in no way affiliated with the production company involved,just a happy customer. Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Richard I have all four of Keith's books but not to hand.From memory,he has only covered Royal William and La Renomee by Euromodels Kind Regards Nigel

Excellent work mate,she is looking grand If the stern post had been a little proud,I would have suggested filing a little off where it sits.I have had parcel force deliveries here at 6.30pm and sometimes normal post not till 4.30pm!! A dvd I had ordered arrived this morning,when I have finished watching it I will post a review in the relevant section.As you are collecting reference material like it is going out of fashion,you may be interested Kind Regards Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Pete for your kind comments I can't speak for others,but I was aware that they could be bought direct.I was wary of doing this as in recent years Italy had been in economic turmoil.I Know Uk suppliers for the other Italian manufactures had experienced great unreliability in orders they had made.As I don't have credit cards I was concerned that any order would be fulfilled.I know this period in Italy's economic climate has now passed,but at one stage there was no government in place and riots on the street!I am elated that Euromodels has ridden out this rough time as I am sure that many companies in Italy have been forced to close throughout this period.I know the situation has changed now,but as we now have a UK dealer this is of little matter. Kind Regards Nigel

I always knew they were good Brian,if we hadn't have lost our UK dealer for so many years I would have built one along time ago.One thing though,that even shocked me,John Franklin,in his book,lists the timber and room as 2ft 2in according to the builders model,the bulkheads match this!!!This was another reason for swapping to the Pear inserts. Kind Regards Nigel

Thank you Mark Yes,you are more than welcome to follow along,Is that Sjors' popcorn? Kind Regards Nigel

Thank you Grant,it is a little departure from the more normal kit builds but I am hoping the finished result should provide lots of visual interest. Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Sjors I have changed the bulkheads to make it easier for me later to produce the feature I want.I have taken a picture of a Navy Board model to show you what I mean.If you look where my 'Arrow' is pointing you will see that the hull frames are left open between the upper wales.This is the feature I want to replicate.I would have had to chop pieces of the plywood away later using the full kit bulkhead but replacing them now is easier.If it wasn't for this 'detail' I could have kept the bulkheads as they were.This is also the reason I have changed to single planking,I had worked out how to do it with double planking but it was just making the job complicated.Please feel free to ask all the questions you like. Kind Regards Nigel P.s.I have a large supply of the clamps,I could do you a special deal

Looking good Michael,the important thing is that your are moving forward,the speed is unimportant Jan,see if you can find Stabilit-Express in the modelshops.It is made in Germany and is one of the best two part glues on the market.I have used it a lot in RC builds,but it is expensive and hard to get in the UK now.It is powder and a tube as opposed to two tubes and is acrylic based but it is incredible stuff. Kind Regards Nigel

It does indeed Eamonn,we live in the wrong place,I have been to Truro a few times,but not 'fraggle 'rock where CMB is based only kidding it was another rock where they started from but from what I have heard by all accounts,it was in the middle of nowhere. Kind Regards Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Matti Kind Regards Nigel

I get my usual modelling timbers and the Pear sheet from the Model dockyard in Truro(300 miles SSW of me ).They are quicker with delivery than CMB.Boxwood I get from Original Marquetry.com.If you look in the banding and stringing section you will find thin boxwood strips ranging in width.They do thicker materials in sheet form.I get my Ebony and Boxwood from there and cut it in the table saw.Ebony and boxwood 'billets' from workshop heaven.Thats about it for non forestry size pieces.The deck of Caroline was planked with boxwood 'strings' from OMarquetry. Kind Regards Nigel

Ahh,but not single use if the next thing you clamp is smaller Kind Regards Nigel

At least you have plenty to read while the timber arrives Those coordinates make it CMB so yes I have,looks like I won't be adding any more infill to Mordaunt for a little while My usual supplier only had 1 sheet of 20mm and that's fitted in the hull Kind Regards Nigel

Thanks Eamonn,yes pins a plenty and now you have seen my top secret 'snap-on' clamps as well Kind Regards Nigel

I have to hand it to you mate,those are amongst some of the best representations of artillery at this scale I have seen Put simply they just look REAL! Kind Regards Nigel