NMBROOK
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ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
NMBROOK replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
A great little video Doris I have the very deepest respect and admiration for modelers like yourself that achieve results like yours with the most basic of toolkits Kind Regards Nigel- 881 replies
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This is getting more like Hancocks half hour by the minute.Apologies to non UK residents,it was a comedy program.On a more serious note,The books are worth every penny Eamonn and exceptional value for money.I dare say you could get all four for less than Bernard Frolich's one book. Kind Regards Nigel P.S.3mins is even quicken than the one I got of yours Eamonn
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I couldn't resist adding a bit of humour Anyway I was beginning to think CNN had gone on strike,turns out their star reporter was playing'name the ship' Kind Regards Nigel
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That would be a very nice feature Antony.What would you make the mould from if using Pewter? Kind Regards Nigel
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You really are asking a question there Eamonn I have all four and they are all well worth the money.The best suggestion I can think off is you start with the first one(Royal william on the cover) and buy all four over a period.Working on the basis of they will become unobtainable in the order they were published.Aside from the featured builds there are very good general sections towards the back.I suppose you could say he was very much my mentor in the days before the internet (I know,when dinosaurs roamed the earth,etc,etc ) Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you Bob,the project is very much still in it's infancy at the moment Kind Regards Nigel
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He is indeed Eamonn,he wrote the four Period ship manuals He is a friend of Chris Watton's,sadly he has reached a stage in life when he can no longer model Kind Regards Nigel
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That is some wonderful furniture construction in miniature Bob! Kind Regards Nigel
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Thanks Brian.Yes I have a rather large stash of boxwood and ebony in hand now for this build.Yes I will replicate the scarphs on keel and prow and the rudder will be a multipiece affair.I would say though,if ever a kits material would come close to me using it,it would be this one.The quality of the walnut is beyond reproach and anyone considering this kit,but wanting to use the walnut would be more than happy. Kind Regards Nigel
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This is a fabulous build Antony,wonderful work Did you make any provision for the cannon muzzle or did you drill this afterwards? Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Eamonn Keith Julier used to swear by Dulux Barley White emulsion,one test pot might do all three of your builds I can't help with the wipe on polyurethane as I have yet to come across somewhere in the UK that sells it(que lots of people posting where to buy it ) Kind Regards Nigel
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Thanks Mij,I thought this might be up your street.I was originally planning on scratch building Lennox next,but due to the extensive development work required,that has been put on hold for now.Richard Endsor's 'restoration warship' book is an excellent read though and provides a very big insight into construction of the period.It will prove invaluable in filling in a few gaps in Euromodels' drawings.For whatever reason they provide a longitudinal section through and sections at a couple of stations but no deck top elevations at the various internal levels Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Eamonn You are right in not bothering to overthink the first layer.In fact it is better if you don't follow the rules,just let the planks lay how they want to.This provides a stronger hull as your planking joints are far less likely to line up through both layers and letting them lay naturally will give you a better shape with less sanding and possibly little need for your filler stash. Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you,yes this is one of my larger projects I like the exposed frame detail on the builder's models between the wales and I feel will complement the areas of open decks.In defense,Euromodels just simplified the stern arrangement by making it flat,the original incorporated a lower balcony,so I am hoping this will not necessitate loads of major surgery to the hull,with the majority of work confined to the upper transom.The side galleries are also incorrect,but again this is a case of discarding the kit one piece castings and scratchbuilding the details. Kind Regards Nigel
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I am going to try and get technical now and provide text with each picture The first step is to copy the drawings regarding the bulkheads.This is due to the between deck areas not be cut out from the factory.These were pasted to the relevant bulkheads to allow cutting out with the scrollsaw.Some areas were not shown,mainly the first and last bulkhead which will require some drafting to get the cutouts. The design of the kit intends for a 3mm by 7mm stringer to be fitted each side of the hull.This stringer does not coincide with anything and to a certain extent will be in my way,so the bulkhead notches were filled with scrap timber. These are pictures of the skeleton so far.You will notice I have cut my own notches out on the lower deck.These are for 5mm square stringers supplied by me.These provide support for the lower gundeck,which is the only deck that will have a plywood subdeck.The plywood additions to the structure are to incorporate dimensional stability and resistance to twisting.The triangle design makes the skeleton rigid,it is impossible to twist it for and aft.The lower hull will be infilled with lime wood.This triangular structure reduces the wood required and also prevents any distortion that can occur due to the moisture from the glue when fitting the infill. That brings things up to date for the time being. Kind Regards Nigel
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I guess I was the minority vote Kevin Story of my life I shall still follow along though mate Kind Regards Nigel
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As I am organised for a change,I can provide pics of the box contents including one of the rather substantial exemplary drawings.The only thing not pictured is the false keel,one sheet of laser cut ply,a few assorted laser cut items and some blocks of wood.There is not massive amounts of laser cut plywood parts like other manufacturers,it is down to the builder to fashion parts from solid wood Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Matti Yes she will be natural wood.I am hoping the only paint used will be to make her look old.The task is made easier by the fact the only colour is black as I don't think I will be going for the Red on the internal planking.However if I did,this would only be on the upper deck,as according to my research,Deptford where she was built had a habit of using unseasoned timber to speed up production.They didn't paint the inside walls of the hull in an attempt to let the timber breath.This didn't work and they soon had lot's of ships with rotten hulls!!!. Yes I have plenty on and starting another log next week as well That is for me though .That will bring my log count up to four,probably some sort of record Caroline has moved on a lot this week but I will update probably at the weekend.I am working on five different things at once to combat drying times So I will take some pics when it comes together. Kind Regards Nigel
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As work is moving well on the construction of my Caroline build,preliminary work is now starting on my next'bill paying' project.This is based on the Euromodel kit,but it is my intention to push the boundaries of what can be achieved with a kit.I shall be using construction techniques for the hull that have been developed by myself,specifically for this build.The completed model shall include the following details; 1/hull planking in boxwood and ebony 2/hull planking omitted between the upper wales with false boxwood frames,this is a feature on quite a few Navy board models which I am quite fond of and an alternative from a fully framed build. 3/Full hull interior,lower gun deck upwards,with planking sections omitted on the upper decks for viewing the interior. 4/Remodelling of the stern to replicate the drawing by Van de Velde the Elder. This project will be a 'slow burn' until Caroline is finished,but I am starting this log now to avoid missing anything as work progresses.I am trying to avoid starting another log with a planked hull Some photos to wet your appetite The box,rather heavy,given it's size Mordaunt by Van de Velde the elder Kind Regards Nigel
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Your Santa Maria looks fabulous Michael Does she look as she did when you finished her,or has the patina developed over time?Absolutely love that look! She has withstood the years perfectly,a testimony to how well you built her in the first place. Kind Regards Nigel
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That explains everything,understandable,that is going to be one BIG layout!!!!! Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Kevin I could be really awkward and say work alternating hours on each model until they are both finished Only joking.For me personally despite being English and visiting the ship,I really do not have any interest in Victory.Bismarck yes,but I think the important thing is which one you will find hardest to get back into after a long absence.Realistically there is a lot of work in your Bismarck project,as you know yourself,just because it is plastic doesn't necessarily make it easier.If you have reached a suitable stage on Victory i.e.fairly easy to pick up where you left off,I would finish Bismarck,but in truth I can see it taking you into the summer. Kind Regards Nigel
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That is the way Ed Marple used to build his models,using every other,or every third frame.I had to reference your previous log Mark,but the style of frame construction is the same as what he used to use.His models still incorporated full internal detail,lower gun deck upwards.Only thinking how you can achieve the same results with a little less work. Kind Regards Nigel
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I do agree with you regarding plywood Mark,even the Birch 'aircraft'ply I get from the modelshop isn't as good as it used to be.I have to say the plywood bulkheads in my new Euromodel kit is the best I have seen in over twenty years,where they get it from,who knows. Kind Regards Nigel
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Great to see you back in the saddle Mark It is really surprising that there are so many errors in Harold Hahn's plans.My only question Mark,is as you intend to fully plank,why not produce one piece frames from ply and have a solid area below the lower deck if this area is to be covered?Just curious,so please don't bite my head off Kind Regards Nigel
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