NMBROOK
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Fabulous work Bob!!!!!! Kind Regards Nigel -
ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
NMBROOK replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
You are truly a master of your field Doris!!Those cannons are outstanding Kind Regards Nigel P.S.I have sorted my bowsprit problem,although it has meant a ton of work- 881 replies
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The cannons look great in place mate!!I think the rigging at 1/10 looks congested so at 1/75 I think it would be too much.It is made worse when the recoil arresting rope goes through the carriage,rather than to the breech(which is why I didn't call it a breaching rope ) Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Eamonn The clamps are simple,only thing that stopped me mass producing a load,was the inability to find suitable screws.The threads on the clamps are very small in diameter,but very coarse in pitch.This stops them from simply tearing the wood.Dr Mike in his dvd we spoke of early,edge bent his planks by placing them flat on a surface and placing a hot domestic iron on them,he then applied pressure on the plank using his hands in the direction of the bend.I haven't had occasion to try this myself yet,but it obviously worked.If you have some of the plank nipper type plank benders you can use these to do the same thing.If you work the plank nipper along one edge of the plank,but only go halfway across,it shrinks the nipped side inducing a sideways bend.Be careful not to go to deep and space your 'nips' out evenly.The more 'nips' the bigger the curve.The plank will curl in the other direction,but this flattens out when you glue it to the hull. Kind Regards Nigel
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Absolutely unbelievable work Remco!!!!!! You may be pleased to learn that pictures of your cupboard have gone almost viral on the facebook modeling community Kind Regards Nigel
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Good to see it is all go in the Arklow shipyard buddy There are many ways to get more clamping force on the planks,but once you get past the bulwarks,there are some clamps that may come in handy.Just google Miskin models and you should see some planking clamps shown.These are like a small screw with a plastic handle and they have an ear on them to hold the plank.They do provide more grip than map pins and the screw goes into the first planking adjacent to the plank you are fitting.One thing a sometimes do if the plank refuses to lie hard against is neighbour,is to glue a little block of scrap wood to the first planking with Cyano,then cut a tiny lime wedge to force it over.when the glue is dry,just cut the little block off. Kind Regards Nigel
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Michael,I have to hand it to you,in thirty years of doing this,I have never seen deadeyes used as pulleys!!That is some excellent out of the box thinking my friend and they look great!! Kind Regards Nigel P.S.I think even RR has dropped down to eight cylinders,and stuck a couple of turbos on but thank you anyway.
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I will PM you Alex,I was about to when I read this Kind Regards Nigel
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Alex Your post sounds very saddening and worrying,I feel something may be lost in the translator. Kind Regards Nigel
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Absolutely stunning Alex For me your work,along with the works of Dr Mike,is my benchmark,one day I will get there! Kind Regards Nigel
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I can see where Dan is coming from with Deans marine Damon.They do make a kit for a similar looking vessel.However all their kits have fibreglass hulls and the plating is moulded in.Looking at the inside of your hull,unless the inside has lead flashing in there for ballast,the hull isn't fibreglass plus the hull plating has been depicted using automotive masking tape and painted over.My gut feeling is this is a scratchbuild based on plans that were/are available from either Model boats or marine modelling magazine.A chap called Jim Pottinger produced scores of plans over the years,some of specific ships and some simpler ones for ships of a generic type e.g. a 'typical 1940's cargo vessel'You can search online and see if any of these plans match as,as far as I know the majority of vessels are illustrated on the respective websites.Try googling 'Nexus publications plans' and see what you come up with.That is the only one that comes to mind immediately,as I very rarely buy these magazines now as they have taken a big turn downhill.Sorry I can't be more specific Kind Regards Nigel
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Be careful Kester Are you in receipt of said blocks?or are they in what we now know to be the black hole,the mail order ether If you are considering block replacement Eamonn,I would give serious consideration to Chuck's blocks.Personally I think these are superior to any thing else on the market.Caldercraft blocks are better than many,so to improve on them,that would be the route I would take.You could also get some of Chuck's rope while you were at it Even if you just replaced the larger rope,the improvement would be well worthwhile,easier than making a planetary ropewalk out of lego BTW expect a branch of NMBrook's nautical library appearing in a European town near you soon Kind Regards Nigel
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That's some great news buddy!I just made back from the shop it in time for your 5 o'clock bulletin I have just received confirmation from Ancre that my payment has been confirmed,so Mr Frolich's book on it's way in the next 24 hours.Looks like it is my turn to stalk the postman Longridge at sorting office to collect tomorrow and Lavery's book in the post somewhere I won't have any building time Kind Regards Nigel
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Xebec by mij - FINISHED - 1:60 scale
NMBROOK replied to mij's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
She is looking great Mij,very nice work I agree that the Amati plans are exceptional value for money.I bought their plans for Prince 1670 a while ago and whilst historically inaccurate they do provide a wealth of information. Kind Regards Nigel -
Hi Keith,I think the issue's being raised are all valid one's.I think that if you want to build Friedrich Wilhelm,but have identified that out of personal choice,that you would replace many items,probably the most cost effective route would be to just buy the plans.The time spent cutting the bulkheads out yourself,for which full patterns are provided,would save you a heap of cash.This route has yet been unmentioned and it is the route I will go with Royal William.I do have the plans and although a little more expensive than Sergals comparable examples,they are well worth the money.You can still use Pete's interpretive files as a reference.To be honest,although a scratchbuild,I don't think the additional work would be much greater than buying the kit and you would have for all intensive purposes,a practicum to follow.I think if you followed this route,in all likelyhood,you would finish up with a model exactly how you want it for an outlay equal to,if not less than buying the kit. Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you Brian At least everything is all together,the other thread was heading way off topic,so just followed Pete's suggestion. One thing is I know it has been mention regarding the age of the design of the R William kit,I would much rather that than the so called improvements from Panart and Sergal with laser cut gratings and imitation deck planking.For me if that is the future,I will just scratchbuild. Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you,very much appreciated Kind Regards Nigel
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I understand where you are coming from Mark,Como is actually the Italian town where they are based.It used to be even more confusing many years ago when Euromodels(uk) stocked Euromodels(IT).The other thing is if anyone tries googling just Euromodels,the company in Twickenham? England will come up. Kind Regards Nigel
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Have you proof printed any of the cannons yet?I am thinking that the best idea would be to order one of each in order to establish the deck beam positions.By my reckoning the clearance between the mortars and the top deck ports is only 1mm top and bottom. Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Mark There is a reason for this,Euromodels Como is the official name,there is a company in the UK specialising in period ships called Euromodels I was airing on the side of caution Kind Regards Nigel
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Sorry to hear that Eamonn I can believe after all that time it was only a part order you received.Makes you wonder whether someone down at CMB is following this thread and thought'we better send something'.I know I would if it was my business,what better way to get free customer feedback Assuming you were thinking of working top down,this really doesn't help Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi All As discussion about Euromodels kits seems to be a 'hot potato' at the moment,I thought it would be a good idea for all discussion relating to these kits have a thread of it's own.Anyone looking for reference in the future may find it beneficial and easy to find.Here is the link http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5678-euromodels-como-kit-discussion/#entry163185 Post away to your hearts content Kind Regards Nigel
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I can't guarantee people will start using it Pete Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi all I have started this thread as other related threads seem to be going of on a tangent Not only that,for future reference to readers,I thought it may be better that any discussion regarding these fine kits is all in one place.Peter has devoted a lot of his free time to creating his interpretive files which can be downloaded on Euromodels website.This charts the construction of the individual models.If you have a question or would like to add anything about this,please go to Pete's thread http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5541-euromodel-interpretive-files/ If you would like to discuss anything other than this related to Euromodels kits please feel free to post it here. Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Ronald,if you are referring to the Panart Victory at 1/78,I haven't built it myself but I have read about it elsewhere.It is identical to the Sergal model of the same scale,however the Panart model has the copper tiles and the binnacle,otherwise the two kits are an identical product.I am not aware of your level of experience,but I have read from reliable sources this is probably the hardest Victory kit to build on the market today.Just a friendly warning,if you are fairly new to the hobby,I would approach with caution. Kind Regards Nigel
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