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NMBROOK

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Everything posted by NMBROOK

  1. Hi Patrick Seeing as I missed out on following your Niagara log,I will follow along with this one if you don't mind.My immediate reaction is Caldercraft cannons.All turned brass and nice quality.I think it is a case of seeing if your cannons match anything in this link.Cannons of this period are roughly all of similar proportions,all dimensions increase in respect to poundage.Incidentally,I know of many on here who have ordered from this supplier for delivery to the US,delivery has been around two weeks providing they have the parts in stock. http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/caldercraft_cannons.html Kind Regards Nigel
  2. Hi Michael No problem,you will need to download the PDFs for an exact listing.I will build another Soleil Royal at 1/50 just so I can use his artillery.When you see them,you will see why A friendly warning though,the exemplary quality of his work does come at a price http://www.shipmodels.com.ua/eng/accessories/index.htm Kind Regards Nigel
  3. Hi Michael Yes I have a container full of them for my SOTS build I think short of ordering from A.Banarov in the Ukraine,they are the nicest decorative cannons on the market. Kind Regards Nigel
  4. Hi Nils I am glad you find it of interest,your work just reminds me of his.I too have a fondness for the more 'mechanical' ship as well as what I post on here.One day when it comes back out 'mothballs' I shall post some pics of my DSV build.It has been laid dormant for a while as due to the number of working functions,it is not a 'cheap' build. I would love to build a working steam plant one day when I have collected enough machine tools to do so.I have plans for HMS Inflexible (predreadnought) by John R Haynes and eventually plan to build a model of her with two working steam engines. Kind Regards Nigel
  5. More fabulous work Nils I think in some respects,the 1/100 is one of the hardest scales,as when you go even smaller you can get away from using 3d fittings and start using photoetch railings etc. In the UK,we have a famous modeler called Jimmy Wood who works purely in 1/100.He works solely in wood and brass and everything is scratchbuilt. All his models are of offshore vessels,however I give you a link to his 'Seawell' build as whilst your and his models are of very different subjects,your methods are very similar.Enjoy http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=524835 Kind Regards Nigel
  6. Hi Marsalv Thank you very much for the spreadsheet,I have saved it.I did find the list of sizes in the AOS book and have ordered rope and pear block from Chuck at Syren.It did not give footrope size,but I took a guess and ordered 0.2mm rope.Lucky guess as your table says 0.17mm Excellent work on the upper masts I think I may resort to splicing the lower octagonal sections to the dowel.Studying the book,there is as much work in the masting and rigging of this model as there is as building and fitting out the hull!!!! Kind Regards Nigel
  7. Absolutely fabulous fitting out work Nils I have to keep reminding myself this is 1/95 when looking at the pics.The high quality of your work,at this scale,makes it an amazing achievement! Kind Regards Nigel
  8. Your scratchbuilt carriage lots fantastic Michael Absolutely no comparison with Corel's offering.The cannons look far more inkeeping with Vasa,nothing wrong with Corel's example,just not right for this time period.I have a feeling I have seen those cannon's somewhere else Kind Regards Nigel
  9. Not only am I struggling to keep up with your updates Doris,I am struggling to find something original to say. I have seen a lot of beautiful models in my time,but this would have to rank as one of the top ones.I think the combination of your massive talent and the fact that Royal Caroline is such a beautiful vessel make an unbeatable combination Kind Regards Nigel
  10. Hi Tony Ebony dust is rather unpleasant,however because the wood is oily it does not become airborne like regular dust,it tends to 'clump' and sit around local to where you are working.I personally find it a pleasure to work with.I have sawn it,machined it and carved it,the only reason it is messy is because it is black and you can see it,it doesn't create any more dust than regular timber. Kind Regards Nigel
  11. Hi Tony If your cannons are going to be black,why not turn them from Ebony?workshopheaven sell billets that can be cut down to fit in the 4 jaw chuck.You will be able to polish this wood to an extremely fine finish. Kind Regards Nigel
  12. Very ,very nice neat work Jason I feel you maybe being overly harsh on yourself,as has been mentioned on here many times,we are all our own worst critics.I think your rigging work is fantastic,with incredible attention to detail. Kind regards Nigel
  13. Hi all,kit buyers anonymous,I am in,all this talk of 'stashes' has made me have a role call Current count at ten,with plans for probably another ten scratchbuilds .There used to be a kebab shop in Leeds that was the stuff of legends in these parts,sadly now gone like many good things from days gone by Kind Regards Nigel
  14. Fantastic work on the stove Bob !!Definitely missing out on my Caroline build ,roll on Mordaunt when I get to make some catering equipment and furniture!! Kind Regards Nigel
  15. No worries mate,fish and chips delivered? I went to the fish shop as it happens,fancied a donner instead though Kind Regards Nigel
  16. Eamonn,your kit stash must be bigger than mine now!!!!!!!! It looks like you may have conquered your book buying addiction,only to become a member of kit buyers anonymous Can't believe the price though,that is Airfix territory!! Kind Regards Nigel
  17. Hi Nils I thought I would pay a visit to see what you are up to.This took me down memory lane a little as I built the 1st Gorch Fock as a child from a plastic kit.Your work is fabulous,I particularly like the metal work,it is fantastic.A very impressive model of a very attractive and sleek ship. Kind Regards Nigel
  18. Eh up buddy (thought I would get some yorkshire in ) a riffler file is just like a needle file,but the end is bent so you can get into places other files won't reach (sounds like a tv advert).They come in all different cross sections like normal needle files,generally you get a pack of assorted shapes and they are very,very cheap.I think CMB stocks them.Good luck with the 'deadly' walnut quite literal in my case as I have an allergy to the stuff . Aww 'name the ship',haven't got much in the way of a spare minute at the moment unfortunately,shame really as it is good fun Kind Regards Nigel
  19. Hi mate,if you find laying individual lengths is starting to make the plank run look like a 50p piece(sorry non UK readers,a fifty p piece is a 7 sided coin),I find that checking with a full length and a light touch of a riffler file trues the edge up on the planks that have been fitted Kind Regards Nigel
  20. Fabulous work marsalv I don't have Lee's book,but I have another book with rope size ratio's to main mast diameter,so I shall follow that Kind Regards Nigel
  21. Hi Eamonn,she is coming on well mate It is a little hard to tell with all the pegs and clamps but my advice is to bear in mind the last plank fitted and the the next one after,really need a lot of tapering at the stern end where there is a transition in hull form at the stern counter.If you don't taper these two planks,the planking run moving down will become crowded.Hard to explain on the keyboard,but not only will this help the planking moving down,but also follow the curve better.This tapers aren't long ones,just maybe 40mm long,If you lay a plank against the last one with an even gap of 5mm all along,this should highlight what I mean buddy. Kind Regards Nigel
  22. Hi Mark Having recently acquired Frolich's book myself,I followed his leed by using a small solid block in the construction of Caroline's launch.It sits forward of the transom in the base of the hull.This helped a great deal to overcome the double curvature of the frames just forward of the rudder and is covered up when the interior is fitted out. Regarding joint lines,Dr Mike discarded black paper in his DVD,stating that all black paper was of too good a quality for glue penetration,he used the cheapest quality white paper available and dyed it with black ink.Messing about,yes,but it does make a lot of sense. Kind Regards Nigel
  23. Hi Mate At this scale boxwood would be the ideal followed by Pear.The grain of these is very,very much smaller making it easier to produce small details. Kind Regards Nigel
  24. They are coming on well mate Given their ridiculously small size and the fact the timber you are using isn't ideal for carving,I think you are doing an outstanding job on these Kind Regards Nigel
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