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NMBROOK

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  1. NMBROOK
    Hi Kevin I think the second picture really conveys the amount of detail you have added and still have to add with all the photoetch.She certainly is far removed from the old 1/600 airfix kits I built as a boy! Kind Regards Nigel
  2. NMBROOK
    Wonderfully neat clean work Jason!! Kind Regards Nigel
  3. NMBROOK
    Great work buddy!!The prow area is coming together very nicely indeed.May I suggest some thin black card for your door hinges as anything thicker is going to spoil the magnificent scale fidelity you have attained throughout this build. Kind Regards Nigel
  4. NMBROOK
    Hi Michael Whole heartedly agree with your decision to fit all the swivel guns.Purely down to aesthetics and symmetry,To anyone not in the know,it would appear wrong plus fitting them depicts the ship as designed and the design was for four guns.My only suggestion would be to leave the deadeyes unrigged.That way you can make a jig using a piece of scrap and some pins to hold the deadeyes in line and the same distance apart whilst you rig the shrouds.Then rig the deadeyes.This would keep the deadeye spacings consistant.Do you plan on pinning the chainplates when setting the shrouds?I ask because that way ensures everything lines through,positioning them to the drawings can be a little hit and miss. Kind Regards Nigel
  5. NMBROOK
    Having had a thorough read through your log Len,I have to say fantastic work.The shades of colours you have used echo the colours brilliantly of some of the builder's models I have seen of the period.Simply fabulous! Kind Regards Nigel
  6. NMBROOK
    Great work Bob.Very very nice representation of the coppering.I have not been impressed by my attempts at blackening and will give the Birchwood Casey product a go.The Carrs product just rubs off and is not even in coverage. Kind Regards Nigel
  7. NMBROOK
    Hi Mangaroca My apologies,been offline the last day or two.Yes the keel needs to be flat to avoid later hassles.Wetting and then applying weights on a flat surface usually sorts this out.Leave for a few days to ensure the timber is fully dry.If this fails to work,rewet the timber and flatten it with a hot iron on a flat surface by repeatedly ironing it both sides until the heat dries the ply out. I am going with pear and ebony because I wish to build this ship in the 'Russian palace' style.I feel this ship particularly lends itself to this style. My I suggest you start a build log,you will find there will be no shortage of help and advice should you need it. Kind Regards Nigel
  8. NMBROOK
    Interesting Dr Per,Billings always used to list their hull planking as Obeche which is quite different from the rock hard ramin that the DIY stores used to sell in the UK Kind Regards Nigel
  9. NMBROOK
    Personally I would go for boxwood,I have used the boxwood stringing(3.4mm) on my Caroline build for the deck if you want an idea of what it looks like.My original intention was to use the 2.7mm on my Trinidad when i start it but my plans involve only pear and ebony now.At the end of the day,the choice is yours,but boxwood will give you the same warm yellow as the kit supplied decking and I think the hull planking is also the same colour(minus the dark bands of course).If you choose this route I would recommend going for a pack of 100 lengths so you don't need to order anymore later and incur another shipping charge. Kind Regards Nigel
  10. NMBROOK
    Good luck with the shoulder Mark,hopefully some relief is coming your way very soon. Kind Regards Nigel
  11. NMBROOK
    I have to agree with Mark,kit manufacturers can be creative with the truth when it comes to wood.Even though it is classed as an endangered species does not mean it is completely unavailable,just means DIY stores can't sell it by the ton.They start selling a substitute,pine,mmmmmm Kind Regards Nigel
  12. NMBROOK
    I did wonder the same and then found out that ramin is on the endangered species list.I am suprised Anja found some,but it is no longer carried by the UK diy stores I visit. Kind Regards Nigel
  13. NMBROOK
    Congratulations Ricardo on completion of a wonderful build!To reach the quality you have and do it in 670hrs is another achievement in itself! Kind Regards Nigel
  14. NMBROOK
    Hi Mangaroca Here is the link where I get my boxwood planks from.Click the boxwood flatlines box and see the different widths available.I put together a decent order as postage is dear but the packaging is the best,quite often including a piece of scrap mdf to prevent damage. http://www.originalmarquetry.co.uk/category_Lines_and_Stringing_1.htm Kind Regards Nigel
  15. NMBROOK
    Hi Chris,for me it would have to be the Dremel or equivalent,mines on it's last legs,so bought a proxxon to give that a go. Kind Regards Nigel
  16. NMBROOK
    Simply tremendous work on the tops Marsalv! Kind Regards Nigel
  17. NMBROOK
    Some very nice touches Michael.Do you plan on fitting all four Swivel guns? Kind Regards Nigel
  18. NMBROOK
    Hi Mangaroca The supplied deck planking has a yellow colour that does resemble Boxwood.It is more than likely one of the boxwood 'substitutes'.Other than using boxwood,your best bet would probably be maple or holly.I wouldn't recommend lime as the edges aren't really sharp enough for narrow deck planks.You are correct that 3mm wide is the way to go as 5mm is ridiculously wide at this scale.I know of a UK company that I get boxwood strips from.These are available in 2.7mm and 3.4mm wide,both 0.7mm thick and in 1m lengths.Where abouts are you based? Kind Regards Nigel
  19. NMBROOK
    Wonderful attention to detail Mark! Kind Regards Nigel
  20. NMBROOK
    Hi Eamonn All looking shipshape and bristol fashion! Kind Regards Nigel
  21. NMBROOK
    Thanks Alex,I thought the nails were brass,I like the contrast with the dark wood tones. Kind Regards Nigel
  22. NMBROOK
    Fantastic!what material are you using for the deck treenails Alex? Kind Regards Nigel
  23. NMBROOK
    Hi Eamonn Personally I would wait until final fairing to see how things work out.If you are filling the first two sections then the deck will be supported and joined to the hull.When you start trying a plank for the run around the bulkheads you may find that you get a more flowing curve sanding the bulkheads back to conform to the deck shape.You may find if they are left the hull has a 'bleb' in that area when you try a strip around the bulkheads. Kind Regards Nigel
  24. NMBROOK
    Hi Kevin Looking good and a nice tidy work area compared to mine,I have been putting it off since Christmas I had a look at the movie,that is one spectacular model.I have 14 motors in my DSV up to now and I thought that was a lot He must be controlling the model through a laptop because my Futaba F14 is nearly fully expanded and it wouldn't come close to controlling half that Kind Regards Nigel
  25. NMBROOK
    Yeah you won't have any problems with the stern Eamonn.It is just the bow.Setting the bow rabbet line to drawings is great when it is a single planked plank on frame build,but it doesn't always work like that with double planking,you don't know about manufacturers allowance for the planking plus how much you sand is a variable,so this is a safe way to ensure it works out. Kind Regards Nigel

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