NMBROOK
-
Posts
2,305 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by NMBROOK
-
Hi Ken, With flowforge flooring a vertical strip around 30mm deep and 5mm wide runs in the longitudinal direction and then a twisted bar about 4mm square runs at right angles across the 25mm gaps.This is resistance welded to the tops of the 30mm flats.In reality it is proud not flush,this is what provides grip when you walk on it. Kind Regards Nigel -
Truly exceptional work Ersin! Kind Regards Nigel
-
Hi Matti,unfortunately I can't lay my hands on the shortest one.I only ordered one of these as was unsure how many I required. However The RHS one pt no.4159/50 is listed as 50mm long but is in fact 44mm.The muzzle has an OD of 6mm with a 3.5mm bore The middle one pt no.4159/40 is listed as 40mm long but is in fact 35mm.The muzzle is 3.5mm OD with a bore of 2.5mm. The smallest one is 4159/30 listed as 30mm but from what I can remember was in fact 27mm long. All the pt no's above include full walnut carriages but they are available seperately. They also do one 20mm long but I should imagine this is possibly a little short for your requirements. Take into account the kit cannons are for the upper deck,the cannons get larger as you work your way down Kind Regards Nigel
-
Hi Mate,yes I have seen the pics on the museums site.The only model cannon maker that would produce anything exactly the same is Alex Banarov.His artillery is amazing,however looking at his site he hasn't developed any cannons for Wasa .I think much depends on how much time you want to devote to them.You could spend time producing one master for each size and cast them in resin.The easiest way of doing this would be to start with a basic aftermarket cannon and then add the decorative parts yourself.The problem I can foresee having seen Clayton's work is that many of the cannons have unusual proportions in that they are very long for their diameter.The cannons on Sovereign were the other way round all be Drakes,short and fat.So I decided to compromise which was the Amati product.If you want some info on the Amati cannons,just ask mate. Kind Regards Nigel
-
ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
NMBROOK replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Incredible Doris,absolutely incredible!!! Kind Regards Nigel- 881 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- royal caroline
- ship of the line
- (and 1 more)
-
Hello again Ken I knew I had seen something like that,and it has just come to me.I have seen it used in rabbit hutches.I have also seen it available in rolls for making rabbit hutches. Kind Regards Nigel
-
Hi Ken An interesting and unusual question.Having worked in the steelwork industry,what you are trying to replicate is something called 'flowforge flooring'.Having worked with this myself the holes are roughly 100mm x 25mm.I understand the size of your diorama,however in reality this stuff is welded to a supporting steel gantry.The supports would be at 500mm intervals roughly and would be visible through the mesh.To be accurate these should be replicated,but this has the advantage of strengthening your model.At your scale,this could be I beams 12mm wide by 24mm deep.As for the mesh I am still pondering,The mesh for radiator cabinets immediately sprang to mind,but are invariably fancy patterns.Another option of the top of my head is the mesh used in openings for aftermarket car bodykits,but as to whether you could find something the correct pattern I don't know.Yes you could make it,but I am certain with enough searching a sheet of mesh pretty close to what you want will be available in a sheet. Kind Regards Nigel
-
I couldn't agree more Matti,she is certainly a very interesting and quirky ship,especially when it comes to the decor.The designers must have had a very vivid imagination Kind Regards Nigel
-
Excellent work Matti Through your log mate,I feel like I am being taken through a tour of all the details I have never really noticed in the past on the ship Kind Regards Nigel
-
Excellent work Bob I like the lasercut gratings,they are reminiscent of the 'pierced' gratings found on many admiralty models.I may utilise you 'pin mounts' on my upcoming Mordaunt build.I normally go for brass pedestals but there is a 2.5 deg fall on the keel,odd length pedestals may look a little strange. Kind Regards Nigel
-
Having pretty much 'sacked' the idea of using basswood,I thank you all for your input.The build in question has been put back for quite a while so no rush.I have come across Yellowheart and whilst this has the appearance of boxwood it does not carry the same hefty price tag.Has anyone worked with this? Kind Regards Nigel
-
Hi Marsares I get my Pear sheet from model-dockyard.com based in Truro,They do cherry sheet and beech in strip form.I have a Proxxon table saw I use to cut planks but really need to invest in a 'big brother' so I can work from larger stock. Kind Regards Nigel
-
No Problem mate,I think our posts crossed in cyberspace because you hadn't posted that update when I was writing my post Yours will get priority anyway,working for CNN Kind Regards Nigel
- 1,039 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- ballahoo
- caldercraft
- (and 2 more)
-
Unfortunately I have only seen it on tv on documentaries,however a billet ali mould would without question be superior to anything else that is normally used for this process.It would actually act as a heatsink to prevent the resin from getting to warm whilst curing!Selling hulls is a very viable option,I have seen one guy selling large Bismarck hulls on the net to cover his initial development and mould costs.Failing that a company that actually sells fibreglass hulls may purchase the moulds from you as I can see this being quite a relatively popular(for a hull of this size) project.I can understand your reasoning going for HO scale regarding figures,but if you are planning on selling hulls,you need to weigh up 1/87 vs 1/72 for the availability of aftermarket ship fittings Kind Regards Nigel
-
A very,very gutsy decision Mark,but I feel one you most certainly not regret.If you are not happy with the work you have done,then this unfortunately is the way to go.You will probably find that you are able to reach the point you were at in half the time,but twice as good.I have a Sergal Soleil Royal that has been on the go for over fifteen years.First rework came when the drawings didn't match the cannon supports,second rework came when I wasn't happy with supplied hull planking,on to the third one now to try and make it more accurate to the model in Paris.However I haven't touched it in over two years as I feel I am better starting again with a hull that is the right shape.So one day I probably will start again. Kind Regards Nigel
-
Excellent work mate!! you will have to update your signature pic now .For a moment I thought you garden table was under the snow looking at one of the pics.I timed my outdoor photography right,monsoons have returned here Kind Regards Nigel
-
Hi Eamonn Looking at the pics,my only concern is the gap is tapered and not parallel.Have you checked the height of the bulwark right at the tip of the bow?Just worried incase the very front of the bulwarks wants to go up a bit,this would make the gap parallel.If all is ok,I would try and bridge the gap with some ply offcut from the bulwarks and then fill otherwise this area may be prone to cracking. Kind Regards Nigel
- 1,039 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- ballahoo
- caldercraft
- (and 2 more)
-
Hi This sounds like a project and a half.If you hace full cnc facilities for something of this size and obviously you won't be building something like this on a shoestring budget,I would machine the hull out of pattern making clay(the same thing used by car design developers)and then produce a two(minimum) piece mould out of fibreglass,then produce a hull from this mould.To maintain the detail on the hull so it is less prone to chipping I would only use epoxy resins NOT polyester which isn't as durable.The mould wall should be a minimum of 2.5 times the thickness of the the hull you will be producing.The mould will need extensive reinforcement to prevent distortion from the exothermic reaction(big deal at this size).At this scale I would consider moulding a subdeck from fibreglass so this can be 'glassed' to the hull to improve torsional stiffness.You deck planking could then be laid on top.To recoup your costs,you could offer further hulls for sale as to my knowledge,nobody has anything like this on the market. Kind Regards Nigel
-
Hi Alex You and your wife are both very,very talented people!! Kind Regards Nigel
-
Absolutely incredible .Am I correct in thinking this is solid wood,machined on a cnc milling machine of your own design Alex?I have been following the development of your 2nd Pantelymon-Victoria and have to ask do you do all the computer drawing work yourself?That is cutting edge 3d drawing!How you produce a 3d computer image of this carving for manufacture with just a 2d drawing and sketches is beyond me. Kind Regards Nigel
- 227 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- cumberland
- 74 gun
- (and 1 more)
-
Hi Eamonn You will have to take a picture tomorrow with the bulwarks in place so we can have a looksee.My gut feeling is to ensure that they run true with the hull and adjust as necessary later at the tip.Because of the acute angles involved(just like your rabbet line )I think it is a big ask of caldercraft that this end detail would be perfect.I won't be online till later tomorrow. Kind Regards Nigel
- 1,039 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- ballahoo
- caldercraft
- (and 2 more)
-
I will look to see if you are on News 24 Kind Regards Nigel
- 1,039 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- ballahoo
- caldercraft
- (and 2 more)
-
Hi Matti I would be inclined to agree with you,studying your pictures of the original,there is insufficient evidence to even suggest whether they open in or out.Either way is possible,but either way is awkward due to the incline the hinges would be on.If they did open inward there would necessarily anything visible other than possible through bolting of the hinge plate from the inside. Kind Regards Nigel
-
Just catching up with your newsflash Eamonn Looking good Kind Regards Nigel
- 1,039 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- ballahoo
- caldercraft
- (and 2 more)
-
Truly wonderful work Frank Everything is so clean neat and sharp! Kind Regards Nigel
Our Emblem ®
