NMBROOK

I buy dedicated Epoxy thinners from the model shop.Any thing else I think will affect the strength. Kind Regards Nigel

My pleasure Shawn,as long as the resin is thin enough and penetrates the balsa,there won't be any problems.Some builders use cellulose dope instead of epoxy,but I have cracking issues with this in the long term so I stick to epoxy. Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Shawn I have done this numerous times on RC builds.I have looked at your log to see what you are up against.The stumbling block is the rail being fitted around the deck edge.You need to be able to 'drape' the cloth over the hull.The cloth is left overlong at the deck edge until the resin is 'green'(set but not cured hard) and then trimmed flush.You have two options. 1,You can paint the hull with epoxy resin.This will harden the hull skin and make it impervious to water.This method means a lot last filling and sanding to get a nice finish for paint.If you buy some ZAP finishing epoxy resin and epoxy thinners.Mix the resin as suggested and then add the thinners to produce a water like consistancy.Thoroughly mix it,it will go milky and then clear when thoroughly mixed.Apply the resin to the hull using a paintbrush generously (having masked off everything else)the more you put on,the further it will penetrate into the balsa.Clean the excess off with the brush after a good soak.The cure time for this resin is 3hours,however Epoxy does not stick to itself once fully cured unless you sand it.Therefore leave it for 1 hour and apply another coat with freshly mixed epoxy again thinned.After three coats you may find most of the grain is filed at which point you can the apply more epoxy unthinned.Two more coats again at one hour intervals should give you enough build for 'knocking back' with glasspaper.Do not attempt to sand the hull for at least 48hrs.This gives the epoxy plenty of time to harden up,otherwise your glasspaper will just clog in a few strokes.It is a case of a thorough sanding and fill the low spots with car body filler.Make sure all low spots are keyed before applying filler.Looking at your build,I would also coat the interior with a couple of thin coats of resin to seal everything further because you will get some water in the hull during sailing. 2.A little different in that you use laminating resin instead.This involves cutting the 'chines' form glassfibre mat.I wouldn't use chop strand mat or tissue,but use fine woven glass fibre cloth.This is used by aircraft modellers to 'hard skin' balsa wings and fuselages.Cut the four chines out of the mat using scissors.You need to have made cardboard templates first.When applying the epoxy mix as directed(no thinning) and apply to the hull.I would work on one section at a time as you get less worktime with this resin and you haven't done it before.After applying resin for one panel(don't put loads on because you will only end up removing it)lay the cloth on the section.Then using an old bank card and making sure you hold the cloth so it doesn't move,Scrape along the surface similar to using a cabinet scaper.This 'forces' the cloth through the resin film.Keep repeating this operation with light pressure stroking the cloth to force out air bubbles and wipe away the resin build up that appears as you do this.After this resin goes tacky,but not hard,apply a further coat of freshly mixed resin without cloth.This is to avoid breaking through into the mat when sanding.Sand the hull being careful not to expose the cloth.Any low spots will need filling as before. Hope this gives you a little insight as to whats required.Personally I would go with option one and see how 'hard' the hull becomes.When sanded you can always apply option 2 over the top.Option one is easier if you have never done it before. One last note,ensure wherever you work is at least 16 deg c when you do this.Epoxy will lay dormant and not cure at temperatures below this. Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Ferit I echo what Michael has said.We are sadly missing updates from our friend Just one line,one knot and the journey to the finish line begins Kind Regards Nigel

I have to say it again Michael,great work,a very neat 'surgical' operation Kind Regards Nigel

I did some aluminium casting a number of years ago.This was using a sandbox and wooden pattern.I used a premium LN4 billet if memory serves me right.The issue I found was that whilst pouring the molten aluminium develops impurities on the surface as you pour.These run into the mould with the the material and result in inclusions in the casting.These could be problematic for anything of modeling size.It took three attempts to produce what I wanted.If you can produce wax masters in the same mould and then build them into a 'tree' I should imagine the cost of having someone else do 'the pour' will keep the cost down.You must include the runner and riser in your master. Kind Regards Nigel

Thank you so much Marc for your very find comments I would say though I still have plenty to learn,the journey is a long one and I doubt the day will come when I don't learn something new every day Van de Velde the elder did an engraving of the ship.Payne also produced an engraving of the ship.Both contradict each other I chose to follow Van de Velde's work for many reason's but not least because his work by so many is deemed to be extremely accurate.He has also produced some great work on another big project of mine,Lenox.I am doing the groundwork for this at the moment,but hope to be'laying the keel' after Caroline is complete early in the new year. This is a picture of the engraving,I have a large copy courtesy of the book by Hiendrik Busmann This did actually start as a kit which was 1/84.Over the last year virtually all what I did use from the kit (the hull skeleton) has gone,but I am left with the scale.I would of chosen something a little larger had I started with a clean sheet of paper. Kind Regards Nigel

Thank you Ferit The one good thing is this log won't be out of place in this section when it goes on for a few years Kind Regards Nigel

Thank you very much Michael Whether your post prompted this action,I don't know,but I thank you anyway.I do feel a little guilty,that with all the interest in this log,I haven't worked on this build for five weeks.If I feel I can afford some time off at Christmas,I shall remedy that. Kind Regards Nigel

Thank you very much Michael It has come as a great surprise being 'relocated'Toying with changing the title of my link.It seems inappropriate now.What to,haven't got a clue .I have looked backed through my log myself and realise what a rollercoaster it has been.If I was to start all over again,the build would start in this section as that is what I should have done in the first place,scratchbuilt.That would have avoided the few compromises I have had to make regarding my only true source of reference,the Van de Velde engraving. I thank you again for your kind comments Kind Regards Nigel

I would just like to say a big thank you to the moderators for moving my log It has come as a very pleasant surprise.I do feel like a very little fish in a very big pond now though I would like to say 'Hello' to everyone in this section,the 'darkside' and I shall no doubt enjoy corresponding with you all.I haven't made many posts on this side mainly because it is nearly a full time job to follow all your great works.When I have popped my head in I find myself sat reading one of the logs for several hours. They are all fascinating and a very enjoyable read Kind Regards Nigel

Great work Ersin There is so much logic,but yet simplicity in the way you have worked through the frame production process,like it a lot! Kind Regards Nigel

Great work Matti,you can always add one more strip at the bow end if you find there will be too large a gap at the foot of the steps when you come to fit them.I honestly do not think anyone is going to sit down and count them. Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Michael Thank you very much for your visit from the 'darkside' .and your kind comments.The build is on another forum and is infact in the scratch section.I guess I just like to push the boundaries as to how far you can take a kit.In many respects it probably would have been easier to start from scratch. Regarding Maple,I find it a very nice timber,it is hard but more forgiving on cutting tools than boxwood.You can get sections that are 'flaky' but these show themselves as being a rather bizarre grain pattern.As a light coloured and cheaper alternative to boxwood I would recommend it. This build was really my first foray into serious wood carving,so all I can say is 'you don't know until you try'.Timber selection is paramount,boxwood being the ideal (Janos is the expert in this) pear coming second.I chose pear because I wanted something darker for this build. There is a rather large section on the Russian forum detailing making your own miniature gouges.It is heavy going with the translator but they have experimented with everything from Veterinary hypodermic needles to taps.The most successful versions are either made from taps or drillbits. It is something I will experiment with when I get back on the build. Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Ed I know the majority will say strip down straighten and then reassemble.I would be tempted to try a couple of things first.Can the deck not be temporarily be pinned in place to straighten the keel out?Failing that you could get a piece of timber and cut notches out to clear the bulkheads.This could be slotted on from the top and clamped or bolted to the side of the keel.I would go for bolting as clamping my restrict space for planking.This could be removed after you have got as far down as is possible with the outer planking. Kind Regards Nigel

I think that is a brilliant solution Michael,great work ! Kind Regards Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Geoff for your kind words and many,many likes Kind Regards Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Bernd for popping in and your kind words Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Keith The front bulkhead was depicted in the artworks as having four cannons in the central ports.The outer two had no cannons and wouldn't be able to accommodate any without great difficulty due to the close proximity to the inner hull wall.As to what use they were I don't know as they would probably remove half the bowsprit!You are correct in the SOTS was indirectly fundamental in the start of the civil war.Ship tax was only paid by coastal communities,but the ever spirally budget of the Sovereign necessitated everyone would have to pay it.The fact that Charles ordered the ship despite major recommendation by the Admiralty that it was a ridiculous idea,did him no favour.The ship would never be repeated in the fact it was purely a display of wealth,ego and standing. I do agree photos will be necessary for the judges as I do plan on entering National competitions when she is finished.Hopefully I will 'just' scrape into the modified kit class,scratch class is another ball game altogether,up against some builds that the modeller has taken half a lifetime to build,not only that but according to the national model boat magazine,the Russians have started making an appearance,which will make for massively tough opposition I will look into the Monarchy series you mention,it may be on Sky anytime.. The black boxwood is in the banding and stringing section listed on the left of the homepage. Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Keith Thank you very much indeed,and thank you for all your likes I have a little joke with myself that there is less than twelve square inches of plywood keeping this in the 'kit build' section .I can categorically say nothing else of the partwork will be used and I no longer subscribe,just seemed a waist of money as I am not using any of the parts. The black boxwood and the red wood I used for the railings come from 'originalmarquetry.com' in the UK.I also get the square boxwood and various other bits from them.The downside to the coloured woods is that they only come in 0.7mm thickness.The square uncoloured boxwood comes in very handy ranging in size from 3.4mm square right down to 0.81mm!! in 1metre lengths. Kind Regards Nigel

A very interesting post Rob,but there are actually five ways to build a hull.For some reason only two of them mainly appear on this forum.The others are solid hull,hollowed solid hull and lastly wooden composite monolith built around a former.The last three are favoured by builders from Eastern Europe and Russia. On top of these there is cardboard,fibreglass etc.I personally think it is down to the builders preference,but also affected by what details are to be visible i.e. gundecks etc.I know the late Ed Marple used to build his models nearly fully framed,despite being fully planked.This must have just been his 'preferred method'.I do know that his planking had superior support because the framing was so close together compared to normal bulkhead construction. Kind Regards Nigel

I have sent Joe a PM.I will see what he says. Kind Regards Nigel

I now have up to part 30.The cuts on the bulkheads are rough compared to laser as they are cut with waterjet.However there is nothing that won't be removed by sanding and fairing before fitting the planking.All other timber supplied has been excellent quality so I wouldn't worry.The only issue I had was two broken bulkheads,but I think that has more to do with the postal service than Deagostini.They were easily glued back together so didn't bother with sourcing replacements.The packaging has improved since then so there hopefully won't be any other problems. Kind Regards Nigel

Great work Michael and a nice solution to the problem.Had a similar set up earlier in the week trying to put a groove in some ebony trim.Unfortunately it just resulted in a snapped cutter.I am going to have to use the bed and do it in sections on account of the hardness of the wood. Kind Regards Nigel

Yes that's the ones I was referring to.Apologies for the link,I have it bookmarked so was confusing with something else. Kind Regards Nigel